Elbrus is the decoration of the Caucasus and the highest mountain in Russia. "Mountain around which the wind whirls"

Mount Elbrus fascinates not only climbers, but also ordinary travelers. From year to year, tourists come to the foot of the mountain to see the greatness and power of the peak. Few remain indifferent and disappointed. This mountain, shrouded in secrets and legends, incredible ascents of the past and present make it even more attractive and popular.

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Geographic characteristics

Elbrus is marked on the map of Russia, between the two republics - Karachay-Cherkess and. The nearest city at the foot of the Tyrnauz mountain is the city of Elbrus.

The peak has two highest peaks, the height of the eastern peak is 5621 meters, and the height of the western peak is 5642 meters. The distance between them is 1500 meters. On average, the steepness of the slopes is 35 degrees. Academician V.K. Vishnevsky first determined the height of Elbrus, and it was 5421 meters.

23 glaciers flow from the slopes of the mountain. The area of ​​glaciers is 134 square kilometers. The maximum length of glaciers is about 7–9 km. Their total area has decreased over the past 100–150 years by 19%. The glacier that flows into the Kuban valley has decreased by 33%. Elbrus glaciers feed three large Caucasian and Stavropol rivers:

  • Kuban;
  • Malku;
  • Baksan.

Until now, the exact borders between Asia and Europe have not been defined, so the mountain is often referred to as the highest mountain peak in Europe and equated with the mountains of the Seven Peaks. The two-peak stratovolcano was formed on an ancient volcanic base. It is believed that these two peaks are completely independent volcanoes and do not depend on each other. Both peaks have their own distinct shape and a clearly defined crater.

Finding the mountain on the map is not difficult, since today a wide variety of maps and public routes with detailed descriptions are available.

general description

Elbrus - height which is famous for its ancient history. The age of the mountain is determined by the state of the upper part. Its top has a vertical fracture. The last eruption of the highest peak in Russia occurred around the 50s AD. e.

Mystery of the name of the mountain

Where is Elbrus located? Perhaps, almost every student in the country will answer this question. But where the name of the mountain comes from, few people know. It is worth noting that the peak has more than one name and has a total of about a dozen.

Today it is very difficult to understand which name appeared earlier. If we talk about the modern name, then according to one version, it comes from the Iranian word "aytibares". In translation, it sounds like a high or brilliant mountain. The peak in the Karachay-Balkar language is called “Mingi-tau”, which is translated into Russian as “a mountain of thousands”. But there is also another name for the Balkars - “Minge-tau”, which translates as “mountain saddled”. Modern representatives of this community call Elbrus - "a mountain around which the wind is spinning" ("Elbrus - tau").

Common names in other languages:

  • "Jin padishah" - "master of spirits" (Turkic);
  • "Orfi - tube" - "mountain of the blessed" (Abkhazian);
  • "Yal - buz" - "snow mane" (Georgian).

local climate

Under the influence of seasonal air masses, the climate of the mountainous region is formed. Climatic conditions are typical for mountainous terrain. For the Elbrus region, the circularity of good and bad weather is characteristic.

In summer, the cycle is a week. In the first days of June the weather is worse than in July. The climate during this period is humid and cool. The temperature at an altitude of 2 thousand meters sometimes reaches +35 degrees, and at a higher altitude - +25 degrees. Autumn comes from the end of August. Winter comes already in October, at an altitude of more than 3 thousand meters. At this point, the average temperature is -12 degrees. The absolute minimum is fixed at minus 27 degrees. Spring comes only at the beginning of May. During this period, snow is actively melting at levels of 3 thousand meters. Often it descends in the form of wet avalanches.

The higher the height, the greater the thickness of the cover. Thus, 60–80 cm is the average thickness of the summit cover. There is more snow on the northern slopes than on the southern ones. At higher altitudes, eternal snowfields and firn fields remain. Due to them, the mass of all Elbrus glaciers is increasing.

Volcanic activity

Elbrus is considered an extinct volcano. When studying the mountain, geologists examined its layers, which contain the ashes of the volcano. It is proved that this particular ash was formed as a result of eruptions since ancient times. After examining the first layer, scientists found that the first eruption of the peak occurred about 45 thousand years ago. e. The next - the second layer, was formed after the volcanic eruption of Mount Kazbek. It was formed about 40 thousand years ago.

Today it is precisely proved that it was the second eruption that was the most powerful, even by modern standards. People - Neanderthals, living at the foot of the mountain at that time, were forced to leave their settled places in search of more favorable living conditions. It has been established that the volcano last erupted 2 thousand years ago BC. e.

The history of climbing Elbrus

Back in 1829, the first conquest of Elbrus was made. The leader of the climbing expedition is George Emmanuel. Famous physicists, zoologists, botanists, geologists and other scientists were members of the scientific expedition. It was they who became the pioneers-conquerors of the highest peak of the Earth - eastern part of Elbrus.

In 1868, a second ascent by an English group of scientists to the eastern part of the mountain was carried out. In the same year, the first conquest of Mount Kazbek was made. The western peak of Elbrus was conquered in 1874 by climbers from England, the expedition was led by A. Sottaev.

During a scientific expedition to map the Caucasus in 1890-1896, an ascent was made to the eastern and western mountains of Elbrus. The expedition was headed by a Russian scientist, military topographer - A.V. Shepherds. It was he who left behind detailed maps of the area and Mount Elbrus - photo. For the study of the Caucasus and Elbrus, in honor of Pastukhov, part of the rocks of Elbrus (the southern part) was named. The height of the Pastukhov rocks is 4800 meters.

In 1891, the shortest ascent time in history was recorded - only 8 hours. The ascent began at the foot of the southern slopes and ended at the eastern summit.

Swiss climbers, for the first time in history, in 1910 carried out the so-called Elbrus cross. They climbed two peaks at the same time, as part of the same expedition.

The first woman conqueror of Elbrus - A. Japaridze (1925).

Soviet climbers made the first winter ascent in 1934. And in 1939, the first ski descent from Elbrus was carried out by the Moscow skier V. Gippenreiter.

From the first part of the 20th century, climbing Elbrus began to be of the most massive nature. So, in 1928, 32 groups of climbers carried out the rise, in 1935 about 2016 people visited Elbrus, and in 1960 - 1395 climbers.

In 1963 he climbed on a motorcycle Berberashvili - Soviet athlete. In 1997, already on the car, the whole team conquered the summit. And in 2015, the Russian athlete A. Rodichev climbed the mountain with a barbell that weighed 75 kg.

The ascent of 2016 to Elbrus is listed in the Guinness Book of Records. Russian climbers A. Kuimov and S. Baranov climbed with the help of an ATV to a height of 5642 meters.

Nowadays, climbing Elbrus is not difficult. For tourists and travelers, shelters make the way easier - parking lots and cableways.

A report about Mount Elbrus will tell you what Mount Elbrus is known for and where it is located.

Message about Mount Elbrus

Elbrus- stratovolcano in the Caucasus - the highest mountain peak in Russia and Europe, included in the list of the highest peaks of the parts of the world "Seven Summits".

In the 19th century, scientific research began on the summit. The exact height and location was determined only in 1913. The goal of the first expedition in 1829 was to reach the top of the Elbrus volcano. It included such great scientists as Kupfer, Lenz, Minetrier. Having reached a height of 2400m, the group went further. Above the mark of 4800 m, only 5 people reached, and only three people reached the saddle of Elbrus. They could not go further because of the very softened snow.

The first to conquer the peaks of Elbrus was Ahiya Sottaev, when he was already over 40 years old. After the first ascent, he climbed the mountain 8 more times. Moreover, Sottaev made the last ascent at the age of 121.

Elbrus mountain where is located?

Elbrus is not only the highest point in Europe, but also a place of pilgrimage. It is located between Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria, and the peoples living there have created many legends. For example, about the origin of the name. From the Iranian "Aytbares" means high Mountain, from the Georgian "Yalbuz" means ice and storm. According to another theory, the name of the mountain is composed of three words: "El" - settlement, "Bur" - twist, "Us" - character.

Mount Elbrus description

Elbrus height above sea level is 5642 m. Moreover, the height of the western peak is 5642 m, and the eastern peak is 5621 m. Between them there is a saddle, inferior in height to only 300 m. There are more than 80 glaciers on the mountain, the largest are Bolshoi Azau, Irik and Terskol . They give rise to many rivers Malka, Terek, Baksan and Kuban.

Below the location of the glaciers are alpine meadows and coniferous forests. The slopes are rocky. The mountains formed more than a million years ago, and in the beginning Elbrus was an active volcano. Today, scientists are still arguing about whether the volcano is sleeping or is extinct. The "sleeping" version is favored by the fact that hot masses are preserved in its depths, which heat up local thermal springs up to +60°C.

The mountain itself consists of layers of tufa, ash and lava. The last eruption was recorded in 50 AD.

Climate

Climatic conditions near the slopes are mild. Humidity here is low, so frosts are tolerated quite easily. But above, on the volcano, the climate is already harsh, similar to the Arctic. At the foot of the mountain, the average winter temperature ranges from 10 0 C to -25 0 C, and at the top it reaches -40°C. On Elbrus, precipitation is abundant and frequent, mainly in the form of snow. The air warms up in summer to +10°C at an altitude of 2500 m, and even higher in July the temperature barely reaches -14°C. The weather is characterized by instability - a windless clear day can be replaced by a snowy storm with strong wind gusts.

Relief

The climate at the foot of the mountain is varied: many gorges, stony placers. And on the slopes, even in summer, you can see melting snowflakes. On the surface of Elbrus there are glaciers with an ice thickness of 400 m. Glacial water forms streams that fall down like waterfalls. Starting from a height of 3500 m, moraine, cirques, and glacial lakes are common.

Flora and fauna

Velvet greenery, pine forests, trees and shrubs grow on the meadows of Elbrus. Flora has 3000 species. It includes pine, alder, mint, celandine, sea buckthorn, thyme, fennel, wormwood, wild rose, St. John's wort and coltsfoot.

The animal world is represented by aurochs, mountain goats, ground squirrels, raccoon dogs, wild boars, chamois, jackals, roe deer, foxes, wolves, wild cats, lynxes, squirrels and bears.

Vultures, eagles and kites, golden eagles, saker falcons, titmouses, bullfinches, thrushes, woodpeckers conquered the heavenly expanses.

  • The local population calls Elbrus "Mingi-tau", which means "Mountain of the Thousands". The name emphasizes its height and size.
  • This is a very difficult mountain to climb. In winter, it is generally forbidden to climb it.
  • Elbrus is mentioned in the works of Herodotus. The ancient Greek historian pointed out that the god Zeus chained Prometheus to it because he gave fire to people.

We hope that the report about Mount Elbrus helped you in preparing for the classes. And you can leave your message about Mount Elbrus through the comment form below.

Blessed is the mountain, the sparkling mountain, the mountain of joy, the pearl of the Caucasus, by whatever names one of the highest mountains of Russia and Europe is called. But in reference books and guides, she is known to us under the name Elbrus, which from the Balkar language means "a mountain around which the wind whirls." The fact is that the tribes of the Balkars, who lived at the foot of the mountain, often noticed the so-called “Elbrus whirlwinds”, these are air masses visible to the human eye, which are, as it were, twisted into a horn.

Mount Elbrus: description, photo, video

Elbrus is a volcano with two peaks that has died out two thousand years ago. The western peak has a height of 5641, the height of the northern peak is 5621 (the difference is twenty meters). In order for you to represent the height more clearly, we inform you that Elbrus is 4400 meters higher and 2300 meters higher. The first ascent to the summit took place on July 22, 1829, led by Georg Emmanuel. Despite the fact that since the discovery by scientists of this, it is considered extinct, gas eruptions have recently been noticed, which may indicate that the volcano is only dormant.

But tectologists are sure that the eruption can theoretically occur only after a couple of thousand years, and for obvious processes of gas eruptions, this is only the beginning of a long process of awakening the volcano. And the current prospects for the eruption do not prevent tourists from all over the world from visiting one of the largest and most beautiful mountains in Europe.

The air on Elbrus is of high purity and crystal clear, thanks to which there is a view of the two seas that are nearby: and. Experienced climbers always warn: Elbrus is a two-faced mountain with a changeable character. At an altitude of 3756 meters (where the cable car leads), the weather can be warm and windy, but after a couple of hours of climbing, it changes dramatically and the ascent can be very difficult. Therefore, you must always be ready for the manifestations of this miracle of the mountain, because the climb is worth it.

It is also worth noting separately the territory of the Elbrus region. During the Great Patriotic War, tough battles took place here, in which the Edelweiss Special Forces Division took part. In this division, the most enduring Wehrmacht soldiers were assembled, who had previously served and trained in mountainous areas. Interestingly, Hitler himself considered the operation to capture Elbrus and raise the flag on its top a waste of effort and resources.

Panorama of Mount Elbrus

The first attempts of the Soviet army in August 1942 to liberate Elbrus were in vain. The fighters had neither special equipment nor alpine skills and were doomed. There were several attempts to storm Elbrus and liberate the Shelter of Eleven, the Ice Base and 105 pickets, but only at the end of the 42nd, by the joint efforts of the NKVD, aviation and special forces. a group of soldiers with climbing skills and the proper equipment managed to knock the Edelweiss off Elbrus and hoist the Soviet flag atop it. Monuments to our dead heroes testify about these battles on the Elbrus region.

To date, the Elbrus region is one of the most developed tourist regions in the Caucasus; in terms of the number of tourists, this territory is among the ten most popular and visited in the world.

Where is Mount Elbrus

For territorial affiliation, Elbrus is located on the border of two republics: Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, within the northern part of the Main Caucasian Range.

Mount Elbrus on the map

Mount Elbrus coordinates on the map:

  • Latitude - 34°69′35′′
  • Longitude - 45°28′69′′

The mountain-volcano is located 130 kilometers west of the city of Nalchik.

How to get to Mount Elbrus

As a general rule, most travelers choose to join, or form tour groups. These groups are transported by excursion bus to the towns of Neutrino, Terskol, Tegenekli, Elbrus and Baidaevo. These villages, as well as the Elbrus-Azau and Cheget ski resorts, are located along the main highway. Also, you can easily get to them by car. There are currently no other options.

When is the best time to visit Mount Elbrus?

As mentioned above, Elbrus has an unstable weather situation, which changes quite abruptly and quickly. He seems to be trying to prevent the climber from reaching the top, testing him: with a nosy, cold wind, smells of hydrogen sulfide, and fatigue. Therefore, people with poor health are highly discouraged from starting such an ascent, and everyone else is required to use the services of a professional guide, for the need to undergo training.







As for the optimal season for climbing, experienced climbers say summer is the best time for beginners. Then the lifting conditions are a little softer, the daylight hours are longer, and the temperature is within normal limits. The only significant obstacle is the fairly frequent thunderstorms in this area, from which it is difficult to find shelter. Therefore, carefully study the weather forecast, and try not to start climbing on the day when there should be a thunderstorm.

Peculiarities

The mountain-volcano itself and the Elbrus region are quite developed for tourism. This resort is in no way inferior to the Himalayan and Alpine counterparts. Of course, it has its own Slavic features. On its territory there are a number of hotels of various price categories, and several ski resorts. Therefore, without even planning a climb, you will have a great time skiing on one of the longest ski tracks in Europe, or reflecting in local spas. In general, there is something to do.

Even at your discretion, at an altitude of 4110 meters, there is the highest mountain hotel in the world with the name "Shelter of Eleven". From the cable car (height 3750 meters) there is a path to this hotel. For desires, you can use the lift, and then walk to it on foot.

What to see in the surroundings

What else is interesting in the vicinity of Elbrus and must be visited? Mount Cheget which is located on the opposite side of Elbrus and which offers a view of the entire volcano. By the way, most of the photographs of Elbrus presented were taken either from or from Mount Cheget.

The Baksan River, it is one of three rivers that flow from the Elbrus glaciers with a beautiful azure hue of water. Visit the blue lakes of Nalchik - one of the favorite attractions of local residents.







It does not matter for what purpose you are going to this mountain: to visit places of military glory, test yourself in climbing, take a walk around the vicinity of Elbrus, or just relax at local resorts and go skiing Elbrus will lure you. It will interest, lure and leave the memory of a proud and self-sufficient mountain, the highest mountain in Europe and one of the seven wonders of Russia.

And if he allows you to climb, if you can climb the highest point of Elbrus, the view that will open before you will be worth not only the effort and money spent, but also a new ascent, because behind the statistics, 6 out of 10 people who climbed Elbrus for the first time do it again.

One of the main attractions of the Elbrus region is Mount Elbrus - the highest peak in Russia and Europe, located north of the Greater Caucasus Range on the border of two republics: Karachay-Cherkess and Kabardino-Balkaria.

Elbrus is a two-peak extinct volcano. The height of the western peak is 5642 m above sea level, the eastern peak is 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5300 m. The peaks are located at a distance of about 3 thousand m from each other. The main composition of the rocks is granites, gneisses, diabases and tuffs of volcanic origin.

Elbrus with two crater peaks was formed a million years ago during the creation of the Caucasus Range. Huge streams of ash mud rushed along the slopes of Elbrus, which swept away all stones and vegetation in front of them. Layers of lava, ash, stones, layered on top of each other, thereby expanding the slopes of the volcano and increasing its height.

The scientific study of Mount Elbrus began in the 19th century. Russian researchers. The first to determine the exact location and height of the mountain in 1913 was Academician V. Vishnevsky. In 1829, Mount Elbrus was visited by the first Russian scientific expedition, which included the famous Russian academician E. Lenz, Pyatigorsk architect Bernardazzi, botanist E. Meyer and others. The expedition was accompanied by General G. Emmanuel, head of the Caucasian line. The first successful ascent to the western peak was made by a group of English climbers in 1874, led by F. Grove, A. Sottaev was its participant.

In 2008, Elbrus was recognized as one of the "7 Wonders of Russia". Today, Elbrus is the largest ski mountain in the world, as well as the most promising place for national and international competitions. Basically, the infrastructure is well developed on the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, where there is a chairlift and a pendulum cable car leading to a parking lot called "Barrel" (at an altitude of 3750 m), which consists of 12 insulated six-seater residential trailers with a kitchen.

Elbrus is a mountain in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, located north of the Main Caucasian Range and is the highest peak in Russia and Europe.

Other names of Elbrus: Mingi-Tau - the eternal mountain (Karachay-Balkar). Oshkhamakho - mountain of happiness (Adyghe). Jin-padishah - the king of mountain spirits (Turkic). Albar (Albors) - high; high mountain (Iranian). Yal-Buz - mane of snow (Georgian). Uryushglumos - mountain of the day. Piece-maf - a mountain that brings happiness. Shat, Shat-mountain - "covered with snow" (Russian). Ash-gamakho - "sacred height" (Circassian). Uro-hokh - "white mountain" (Ossetian). Styr-hokh - "big, high mountain" (Ossetian).
Elbrus is a two-peak cone of an extinct volcano. The western peak has a height of 5642 m, the Eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5200 m and are separated from each other by about 3 km. The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers is 134.5 km2; the most famous of them: Big and Small Azau, Terskol. According to the climbing classification, Elbrus is rated as 2A snow-ice, the passage of both peaks - 2B.

On the slopes of Elbrus there is a pendulum and chairlift leading to a height of 3750 meters, where the Barrels shelter is located, which consists of twelve six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. Currently, this is the main starting point for those climbing to the top of the mountain. At an altitude of 4100 m, the highest mountain hotel "Shelter of the 11" is located, which burned down at the end of the 20th century, on the basis of the boiler room of which a new building has now been rebuilt, which is also actively used by climbers.

Eastern summit of Elbrus from Shelter of Eleven (route 2A).

From the village of Terskol, ascent along the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately passes to the left side of the South-Eastern spur of the Elbrus massif in the Azau gorge and gradually rises to the “95th picket”, then to the “105th picket” and further to the Ice Base. The serpentines of the road in many places, starting from the transformer box near the village of Terskol, can be bypassed along the trails. From the village of Terskol 5 - 6 hours.

From the Ice base from the moraine descent to the glacier, then a steep ascent. Then go up the gentle snowy slope, gradually turning to the left, moving in a wide snowy hollow to a place where the steepness of the slope increases sharply (up to 30 - 35 °). Here, turn left and, having climbed a traverse on a snowy take-off, after 300-350 m go to a rocky ridge on which the Shelter of Eleven is located (to the left along the ascent path there are cracks). From the Ice base 1.5 - 2 hours. In summer, the path from the Ice Base to the Shelter of Eleven is usually marked with wooden stakes every 40-60 m.

At the Shelter of Eleven, it is advisable to spend a day of active acclimatization with access to the Pastukhov rocks.

From Shelter Eleven (exit at 1 am) climb straight up to the left of a heavily snow-covered rocky ridge, towards the Eastern peak, to the left side of small rocky outcrops called Pastukhov rocks. From the Pastukhov rocks 300 - 400-meter ascent straight up, then, gradually turning to the left, go to the traverse of the slope and traverse to the saddles under the slopes of the Eastern Peak. From the Shelter of Eleven to the saddle 5-6 hours.
On the left, under the slopes of the Western peak, at the beginning of a huge snow trough leading to the saddle, there is a hut. 250 - 300 m above the hut, turn off the saddle to the right and climb the shoulder rocks along the snowy slope with simple rock outcrops. From the shoulder along a wide horizontal plateau, access to the tour on the Eastern peak of the Elbrus massif - 5621 m. From the saddle 1 - 1.5 hours. Descent along the path of ascent to the Shelter of Eleven 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3-4 days.

Western peak of Elbrus from Shelter of Eleven (route 2B).

The path from the village of Terskol from the saddle of Elbrus is described above.
80 - 100 m above the hut to the saddle, turn left and climb up and to the right along the steep snow-ice slope, crossing the slope, onto the rocks of the shoulder of the Western peak. From the shoulder along a wide plateau and simple snow-covered rocks, access to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif - 5633 m. From the saddle 1.5 - 2 hours.
Descent along the path of ascent to the Shelter of Eleven 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3-4 days.

The western peak of Elbrus through the Western Shoulder (route 2B).

From the village of Terskol, climb first along the road, then along the path on the right side of the Azau gorge and after 4 hours exit to the starting bivouac on Stary Krugozor, located on the southernmost (Southeast) spur of the Elbrus massif. From Krugozor (exit at 2 - 3 am) turn left and along the moraine, and then go along the Small Azau glacier to a snowy plateau. On the plateau (closed cracks!), then go along a small gentle snowy slope to a rocky ridge to the right (to the north) of the Hotyutau pass and the Bezymyanny glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From Staryi Krugozor 4 – 4.5 hours.

Here, turn right and go along the simple rocks of the ridge to a rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the transitional glacier. Cross this ridge by a traverse and along simple, in some places of medium difficulty, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge rising towards the Western Shoulder, go to the snowy ridge. On a sharp (cornices!), then a wide snowy ridge, climb the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. In a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder is a bivouac. From the Hotyutau pass 3-5 hours.

From the saddle ascent to the North-East along the snow fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse to the left around the Western peak of Elbrus and exit under the North-Western rocky ridge of the Western peak. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow along the rocks, a steep ascent to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder 5 - 6 hours.

Descent along the path of the ascent or through the saddle and the Shelter of Eleven. The duration of the route is 4 days.

First ascent of Elbrus

Elbrus was first mentioned in the "Book of Victories" by the Persian historian Sherif ad-Din Yazdi, who writes that the Central Asian conqueror Timur (Tamerlane) allegedly climbed Elbrus during successful military campaigns in Transcaucasia to pray. These and other data on the conquest of the giant of the Caucasus are available in the writings of some travelers, but they do not have solid historical evidence.

More reliable data about Elbrus are found in the reports of Russian ambassadors and scientists of the 18th century, when ties between Russia and Georgia began to develop.

The official date of the conquest of Elbrus is considered to be 1829, when an expedition was organized, led by the head of the Caucasian fortified line, General G. A. Emanuel. Since the expedition was of a scientific nature, the best forces of the Russian Academy of Sciences, headed by Academician Adolf Kupfer, a geophysicist, geologist, founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg, were involved in it. The expedition included the physicist Emilius Lenz, the zoologist Eduard Minetrier, the founder of the Russian Entomological Society, botanical research was entrusted to Karl Meyer, who later became an academician and director of the botanical garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences. The architect Joseph Bernardazzi was invited as an artist. In addition, the expedition was attended by the Hungarian scientist Janos Besse, who shortly before this had made interesting trips to a number of countries. Later, in 1838, based on the results of his travels, he published the book “Journey through the Crimea, the Caucasus, Georgia, Armenia, Asia Minor and Constantinople”, which still retains its cognitive and scientific value. The auxiliary service of Emanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 Cossacks of the line.

The first part of the route from the Constantinogorsk fortress (present-day Pyatigorsk) to the fortification "Stone Bridge" (on Malka) passed without complications. On July 8, 1829, the travelers arrived at the Harbas River (a tributary of the Malka). From here they climbed to a height of about 2600m and camped near one of the mineral springs on the banks of the Kyzylsu River.

Before the start of the ascent, Emanuel gathered the Cossacks, Kabardians and Balkars who accompanied the expedition, and announced to them that whoever reaches the top of Elbrus will be awarded an award.
After a short rest and equipment check, the assault on Elbrus began, in which Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Minetrie, Bernardazzi and 20 Cossacks took part.
In his travel diary, Kupfer wrote about the beginning of the route:
“Although the valley behind us was obscured by fog, the weather was fine. The moon had reached the middle of the firmament, and the bright brilliance of its disk was a pleasant contrast to the blue of the sky, which was the color of indigo. The fog spread like a veil at our feet, but soon the rays of the sun tore it apart. The valley opened up to our blinded eyes, and a panorama of mountains unfolded before us, forming the first chain of the Caucasus ... "

Insignificant mountain climbing experience, poor quality of climbing equipment, low caloric content of food products made themselves felt. Elbrus was conquered at the cost of great effort. Further in Kupfer's diary we read:
“We moved either in a straight line, or in zigzags, despite the difficulties of the path. The haste with which we strove to reach the summit before the snow was softened by the sun exhausted our strength, and we finally had to stop to rest at almost every step. The rarefaction of the air is such that breathing is not able to restore lost strength. The blood is very worried. My lips burned, my eyes suffered from the dazzling brilliance of the sun, although, on the advice of the mountaineers, I blackened the face near the eyes with gunpowder. All my senses were dulled, my head was spinning. Finally, we decided to rest under a huge rock of black trachyte.”

Many participants showed signs of altitude sickness: nausea, dizziness, apathy, and therefore, after a short rest from a height of 4270m, they decided to go down.

Four people went to storm the summit: Emily Lents, Cossack Lysenkov and two people from the group of guides - Killar Khashirov and Akhiya Sottaev. From a height of 5350m, due to lack of strength, Lenz and the guides accompanying him were forced to descend. Climbing alone continued Killar Khashirov.

The expedition diary says this:
“The descent was very difficult and dangerous. The snow fell, holes formed under their feet, which made it possible to see the sinking abyss. Cossacks and highlanders tied themselves in pairs with ropes. During this wonderful day, Emanuel watched our movement with an excellent spotting scope. He noticed one man who was ahead of everyone and came out on a ridge of rocks that form the very top. Emanuel could no longer doubt that one of us had reached the summit."

The brave Kabardian Killar Khashirov at 11 am on July 10, 1829 was the first to set foot on the top of Elbrus, strengthened a pole on it, overlaid it with stones and, after a short rest, began to descend.
"When Killar reached the top, in honor of the conquest of Elbrus, a gun salute was given in the camp."
Giving an assessment of the actions of Killar Khashirov in the last hours of the assault and conquest of Elbrus, Kupfer noted that, being an experienced hunter, Killar skillfully used the morning cold, and when Lenz was at the place of his last stop, the conqueror of Elbrus was already returning from the newly conquered peak. And to the main base camp, where General Emanuel was, Killar arrived before the other participants.
In a solemn atmosphere, the ceremony of honoring the conqueror of Elbrus took place.

By order of the Academy of Sciences, two plates were made with the following text in Russian and Arabic:
“... He camped here from July 8 to July 11, 1829, the Commander of the Caucasian Line, General of the Cavalry Georgy Emanuel, with him were his son Georgy, 14 years old, sent by the Russian government. Architect Jos. Bernardazzi and the Hungarian traveler Yves. Besse.

Academicians and Bernardazzi, leaving the camp located 8000 feet (i.e. 1143 fathoms) above the sea surface, ascended Elbrus on the 10th to 15,700 feet (2243 fathoms), the top of which 16330 feet (2333 fathoms) was reached only by the Kabardian Hillar .

Let this humble stone pass on to posterity the names of those who were the first to pave the way to reaching Elbrus, which is still considered impregnable!”

The texts were originally carved in stone, then cast in iron. The plates were supposed to be installed at the site of the main camp of the expedition at the foot of Elbrus. However, they were delivered to Pyatigorsk and for more than 80 years they were at the entrance to an artificial cave, which General Emanuel built in his time as a sign of the conquest of Elbrus. Then they were transferred to one of the museums in Tbilisi. In Pyatigorsk, at the Podkumok foundry, copies of the plates about the immortal first ascent of Elbrus were cast by a resident of the village of Kuchmazukino (now the village of Staraya Krepost, Baksansky District, Kabardino-Balkarian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic) Killar Khashirov.

In 1932 (that is, 103 years later), during a ski trip, the famous Soviet climbers V. Nikitin and V. Korzun discovered an inscription overgrown with moss on one of the rocks in the Irakhiksyrt tract and, having cleaned it, they were able to read the barely noticeable words: “1829 with July 8 to 11 camp under the command of the general of the cavalry Emanuel.

The news of the first ascent of Elbrus spread throughout many countries. However, no further measures were taken to develop mountaineering in Russia. At the same time, several well-equipped expeditions arrive from foreign countries, which, as a rule, did not dare to storm Elbrus. And the few climbing attempts that were made ended in vain.

Elbrus chronicle

1813 Russian academician Vishnevsky for the first time determined the height of Elbrus (5421 m).
1829 The first to climb Elbrus is a Kabardian, a resident of the Baksan Gorge, Killar Khashirov, the guide of the expedition of General G. A. Emanuel.
1868 The conquest of the eastern peak of Elbrus by an English expedition led by Douglas Freshfield with a Balkar guide Ahiya Sottaev.
1874 Climbing Elbrus by British climbers led by F. Grove, author of the book "Cold Caucasus".
1875 Publication of the book "Geological research of the Main Caucasian Range" (with a map of Elbrus).
1884 Climbing Elbrus is made by a group of Hungarian climbers led by Moritz Deshi in 1889. The first completed traverse passed by Ungern-Sternberg from the western peak through the saddle to the north to the Malka valley.
1890-1896 A. V. Pastukhov, a Russian military topographer and climber, conquers the western and eastern peaks, initiating the study of Elbrus.
1891 Gottorrid Merzbacher and Ludwig Purtcheller with two guides conquered the western summit of Elbrus, covering the entire path from Terskol to the summit in the shortest time since the beginning of the development of Elbrus - 8 hours.
1907 Geologist V.V. Dubyansky began scientific geological research on Elbrus and in the Elbrus region.
1909 At an altitude of 3200m, the Caucasian Mountain Society built the first semi-dugout for five people. It was the first pre-revolutionary building on Elbrus.
1910 Swiss climbers Gugi and De-Rami conquer both peaks of Elbrus in one day.
1911 For the first time Elbrus was visited by 10 climbing groups, of which 4 were foreign.
1911 Climbing Elbrus by S. M. Kirov..
1914 The publication of the classic work on the geology of Elbrus "On the petrography of Elbrus". Author V. V. Dubyansky.
1925 Observations of the Elbrus glaciers began.
1925 The first Soviet ascent of Elbrus by 19 climbers led by G. N. Nikoladze.
1925 The first Soviet woman on Elbrus was A. Japaridze.
1927 The first ascent of N. V. Krylenko to Elbrus.

1928 During the year, 32 groups of Soviet climbers climbed Elbrus, while in previous years - from 1829 to 1927 - 56 groups visited there.
1928 The government commission examined the mineral springs of the Elbrus region in 1929. A wooden building for 40 people was built at Krugozor with funds from the Society for Proletarian Tourism and Excursions.
1931 Under the leadership of Professor V. A. Konopasevich, the first circular ski trip around the eastern peak of Elbrus was completed. Five participants from the saddle climbed to the top.
1932 At an altitude of 4200 m, a wooden building was built for 40 places for tourists and climbers - "Shelter of Eleven".
1932-1933 V. Korzun, V. Nikitin and S. Lysenko conduct winter meteorological observations at Krugozor.
1933 10 Moscow skiers for the first time skied up to the Shelter of Eleven, the descent was also carried out on skis.
1933 On the saddle of Elbrus, at an altitude of about 5300m, a high-altitude shelter "Saddle" was built for climbers.
1933 The planned training of mountaineering personnel in Tegenekli has begun.
1933 A meteorological station began to function at the "Shelter of the Nine", built by the Pyatigorsk Weather Bureau. Its first winterers were V. Korzun, A. Gusev, A. Gorbachev.

1934 V. Korzun and A. Gusev made the first winter ascent.
1934 The work of the First Integrated Elbrus Expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences began.
1935 For the first time in one winter, N. Gusak and V. Kudinov climbed both peaks of Elbrus twice.
1935 The first winter ascent of Elbrus was made by students of the Ordzhonikidze Pedagogical Institute A. Arakelyan, A. Poltoradneva, M. Sveshnikova, Z. Rodkina, E. Chikhradze.
1935 A record of mass visits to Elbrus was set, 2016 climbers visited the summit in a year. Among them are 638 participants in the collective farm alpiniad of Kabardino-Balkaria in 1937. The first circular ski trip around the Elbrus massif was held at an altitude of 3000-4000 m.
1939 The first descent on skis from the top of Elbrus to the "Shelter of Eleven" was made by the Moscow slalomist V. Gippenreiter.
1939 A three-story hotel at the Shelter of Eleven began to operate.
1943 On February 13 and 17, a group of military climbers, participants in the defense of the Caucasus, climbed Elbrus and, dropping fascist standards, raised the State Flag of the USSR.
1946 In honor of the 25th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria, 40 athletes made the first post-war ascent of Elbrus.
1947 A. Maleinov, V. Gippenreiter, K. Spiridonov made a ski traverse of both peaks of Elbrus.

1950 The ARMS auto weather station is installed on the eastern peak.
1957-1958 On the slopes of Elbrus, great scientific work is being carried out under the program of the International Geophysical Year.
1960 year. 1395 athletes participated in the mass mountain climbing on Elbrus in honor of the 40th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria.
1963 The first chairlift in the Elbrus region to Mount Cheget was put into operation. Its length is 1600 m, elevation difference is 650 m.
1963 Master of Sports A. Berberashvili climbed Elbrus on a motorcycle.
1965 The high-mountain hotel "Itkol" has opened in the Elbrus region.

1966 The Mi-4 helicopter landed for the first time on the eastern peak of Elbrus (pilots Yu. Rakhmanov and M.Kh asanshin).
1966 The construction of the second stage of the chairlift on Mount Cheget - "Cheget-2" has been completed.
1967 A new Elbrus attendance record has been set. During the year, 3,224 people visited its peaks, including 2,536 people climbing in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution in one day
1968 The tourist hotel "Azau" began to function at an altitude of 2200 m.
1968 The eight-story tourist hotel "Terskol" of the USSR Ministry of Defense was put into operation.
1969 The cable-suspension road on Mount Cheget began to operate.
1969 The first rope-pendulum road from the Azau station to the Krugozor was built. Its length is 1900 m, elevation difference is 900 m.
1972 The Elbrus Medical Biological Station (EMBS) of the USSR Academy of Sciences began to function.
1974 The camp site "Cheget" was built.
1976 The cable car from st. "Krugozor" to the station. "World".
1982 Climbing in honor of the 60th anniversary of the formation of the USSR.
1983 Elbrusiada, dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the liberation of the Caucasus from fascist invaders and the hoisting of Soviet flags on Elbrus.

Elbrus Map