San Sebastian, Spain. Where the Spanish kings rest

The city of San Sebastian in the Basque Country is considered by many to be the most beautiful city in Spain. Its population is 183,000 people, and it is located 103 km from the capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria, 473 km from Madrid and only 18 km from the French border.

The Basques call this city Donostia or Donostia, and since 1980 it has been officially called Donostia-San Sebastian.

History of San Sebastian

The monastery of San Sebastian gave its name to the city. The city was founded in 1180 by the king of Navarre, Sancho the Wise, although some historians attribute the date of its foundation to a century and a half ago. The city was a seaport of the kingdom of Navarre, but after 1200 came under the rule of the Castilian crown, which gave impetus to its rapid development. This heyday made possible the multiple revival of the city: in the first two centuries of its existence, it burned to the ground six times. A fire in January 1489 turned the city into a pile of ashes, after which it began to rebuild from stone.

The revived San Sebastian became a naval fortress and the base of the Cantabrian Armada, which fought until the 19th century against the French, Dutch and English squadrons. The city was repeatedly under siege by the enemy. The constant state of war undermined its economy. In 1719, with weakened fortifications, a small garrison and a lack of weapons and food, San Sebastian was first captured by the French, who left it in 1721 after the conclusion of the Hague Peace Treaty. Exactly 200 years ago, in 1808, it was again captured by Napoleon's army and released in 1813. During the struggle for the city, only two churches and 35 houses survived the fire.

Revived once again, the city in 1854 became the capital of the Basque province of Gipuzkoa. In 1863, after fierce disputes, it was decided to dismantle the fortress walls, which limited the growth and development of the city. After the death of King Alfonso XII, on the advice of doctors, his widow Queen Regent Maria Cristina chooses San Sebastian as her summer vacation destination. The city begins to quickly change its appearance: it was in those years that buildings began to appear, which later became its hallmark.

In 1914, with the outbreak of the First World War, San Sebastian turned into one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Spain: it hosts Russian ballet companies, French operetta actors, opera singers and artists of other genres, and casinos are visited by such characters as Leon Trotsky, Mata Hari, Count Romanones.

Sights of San Sebastian

San Sebastian, or simply Sanse, is also called the small or southern Paris for the architectural style of city development borrowed from the French capital. One of the finest buildings in San Sebastian is city ​​hall, where the casino, built in 1887, used to be located.

Rising majestically in the central part of the city is the Buen Pastor Cathedral, the construction of which was completed in 1897. The Urumea River, with amazingly beautiful bridges, divides San Sebastian into two parts. Particularly impressive are the bridges of Maria Christina and Kursaal.

Miramar Palace, also called the Royal Palace, was commissioned by the royal house of Spain in 1893 and designed by the English architect Selden Wornum, to whom the building owes its purely English style. From the palace, amazing views of the Conch Bay open up. For many years, it served as a summer residence for the royal family, which increased the city's attractiveness for tourists. Spanish and European nobility spent their summers in San Sebastian. Currently, the palace and its wonderful gardens are open to the public.

Every August from 1940 to 1975 in San Sebastian during ayate palace Dictator Francisco Franco also lived there, where he also held meetings of the Council of Ministers. Ayate Palace is located in the microdistrict of the same name, located on a small hill in the city center.

In 1909, the three-year construction of the theater and the nearby elite hotel "Maria Christina" began at the same time. The hotel was designed by the French architect Charles Meves, the author of several Ritz hotels in various European cities, including Madrid. It is in the "Maria Christina" that the stars arriving at the famous San Sebastian Film Festival stop.

On Mount Igueldo is built in the early twentieth century. There is a funicular from the square, which is called: Funicular Square. From the mountain you can enjoy magnificent views of the city's beaches and the bay.

In the old part of the city at the end of the promenade, you can visit the aquarium with a transparent tunnel, from where you can watch sharks and other sea creatures. The Museum of Oceanography, located in the port, acquaints visitors with the maritime history of the city. IN Museum of San Telmo interesting are 11 frescoes by the Catalan artist José Maria Serta with episodes from the history of Gipuzkoa, made in sepia and gold on a red background. Its main commercial and financial artery, Libertad Avenue, passes through the city center. This is the longest street in the city; a huge number of banks and boutiques are concentrated on it.

The beaches of San Sebastian

The coastline of San Sebastian is interrupted by mountains, forming seashell-shaped beaches, hence the name of one of them - La Concha beach, which is located opposite the Miramar Palace. Beaches with the finest white sand are the pride of the city.

• La Concha is the most famous beach in Spain, located within the city. Its length is 1450 m, the average width is 40 m.
• The 600 m long Ondarreta beach, lying between the Miramar Palace and Mount Igueldo, is less "prestigious" than La Concha. At the end of this beach is the composition of the famous sculptor and native of San Sebastian Eduardo Chillida "The Comb of the Wind".
• The 800 m long Zurriola beach is more open to the sea and is especially popular with young people and surfers.
• Another small beach is located on the island of Santa Clara, which can be reached by shuttle boats or by swimming: it is located 500 meters from Ondarreta.

San Sebastian International Film Festival

In September 1953, at the initiative of a group of local entrepreneurs, the International Film Festival was held in San Sebastian for the first time. The organization of the festival had two goals: to extend the summer season of the city and to restore to it the former cultural life and glamor lost as a result of the Civil War. The success of the festival was enormous, in connection with which the Francoist regime took it under its wing. It has gained weight over the years and has grown into one of the best film festivals in the world. Until 1999, the stage of the festival was the Victoria Eugenia Theatre, and since 1999 screenings have been held in the modern Rafael Moneo Congress Hall, built opposite the Zurriola beach.

cultural events

In addition to the International Film Festival, San Sebastian also hosts other cultural events.

• In July, the Jazz Festival is held here every year, which was born in 1965 and has become one of the main ones in Europe.
• Since 1939, classical music concerts have been held in the city every year for a month and a half.
• In 1990, the traditional Horror and Science Fiction Film Week begins.
• Since 2003, a film festival has been held, the program of which includes films related to the theme of human rights.
• Other cultural events include a theater festival, an advertising festival, a surf film festival and an electronic music festival.
• Several times a year, stages of various world and European sailing regattas are held in San Sebastian.
• On January 20, on St. Sebastian's Day, a children's "tamborrada" takes place in the city: about 5,000 children from local schools march through the central streets of the city with drumming. At the same time, during all 24 hours of the holiday, fifty adult groups with drums defile around San Sebastian.

Gastronomy

It is said that San Sebastian ranks first in the world in terms of the number of Michelin stars per square meter. There are only two cities in the world with three three-star restaurants: San Sebastian and Paris. It is no coincidence that gastronomy is a local attraction.

In the old part of the city there are many bars and restaurants specializing in "pintxos" (pintxos), which are examples of gastronomic art in miniature. A trip to these establishments is part of the local culture and a kind of ritual that is mandatory for tourists.

Weather in San Sebastian

The weather in the Basque Country is different from the weather in other regions of Spain: it is much windier and rainier here. However, if you remember the weather in most Russian cities, the locals are still lucky. The average temperature in summer is 20-25 degrees Celsius, in winter - about +10, which makes the city and the region an ideal place for water sports.

If you are going to the north of Spain or straight to the Basque Country, be sure to spend a few days in San Sebastian - you will not regret it. Please call the company and we will help you organize interesting individual or group excursions with the best guides in the country.

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San Sebastian in Spain is considered an elite resort town. France has Nice, Spain has San Sebastian. Although, perhaps, it would be more correct to compare it not with Nice, but with Biarritz: both of them are located on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, at a distance of 50 km from each other.

Both the Spanish kings and the dictator Franco loved to relax in San Sebastian. And Queen Isabella II "discovered" it for the refined public in the middle of the 19th century. At that time there was a military fort here, and with it a fishing village.

Indeed, the place was ideal for a resort: a quiet secluded bay of a semicircular shape with a wide strip of sandy beaches on both sides ended with hills, in the middle of the bay a rocky island of Santa Clara rose from the water, covering it from open water space.

Soon Queen Maria Christina built her residence here, and the city began to fill with an aristocratic public. On the site of a military fishing settlement, a chic resort town was erected. In the toponomy of the city, you will often come across the name "Maria Christina" - in memory of the queen, under whom, in fact, the city arose in its current role.

San Sebastian quickly became fashionable. And it doesn't come out to this day.

San Sebastian at the beginning of the last century

San Sebastian is located on the Atlantic Ocean Basque country, 14 km from the Spanish-French border, and has a double Basque-Spanish name: Donostia-San Sebastian.

There are not too many Russian tourists here - in contrast to the Mediterranean coast of Spain, which has long been thoroughly mastered by our compatriots. I have not seen package tours to San Sebastian. Yes, he, in general, is little associated with a traditional beach resort, in which hotels with balconies overlooking the sea stretch along the coast, where the beaches are filled with sunbeds, and cafes mixed with boutiques lined up along the promenade.

San Sebastian is a solid city, fairly uniform in style, mostly 5-6 floors, which acquired its present appearance in the Art Nouveau era and subsequently adjusted to the given style. Most of the buildings in the center and in the Old Town are built from local light yellow stone.

Typical building color

Several times I met the opinion that supposedly San Sebastian is similar to Paris. It is similar to Paris in the same way as any European city that was formed in the 19th century, similar to another European city of the same time (as you know, Paris was radically rebuilt in the 19th century by Baron Haussmann). In my opinion, San Sebastian is more like Madrid or. The comparison with Paris is not very suitable here.

Isn't it quite in the spirit of Madrid?

How to get to San Sebastian

1. San Sebastian has its own airport near the village Odnorribia(Hondarribia), but I did not come across direct flights from Moscow. Usually a transfer is added in Madrid. The cost of such flights is around 25 thousand rubles. Flights are operated by Iberia.

2. A flight to Biarritz(50 km from San Sebastian).

3. A good option is a flight to Bilbao. Air tickets - about 17-18 thousand rubles. Bilbao has a major international airport. The distance to San Sebastian is 100 km.

From Bilbao to San Sebastian can be reached by local train. See the schedule on the Euskotren website (when choosing a place of arrival, look for Donostia - San-Sebastian). Trains depart from Bilbao every hour and take 2 hours and 40 minutes to get to Donostia. The fare is 6.30 euros.

The bus in this case would be preferable (schedule - on alsa.es). It goes 1 – 1.15 and costs 6.50 euros.

Pesa buses run directly from Bilbao Airport to Donostia. The schedule is on the Pesa website. The bus leaves 1.15, the ticket price is 12 euros.

4. Many prefer to fly before Barcelona(tickets around 15 thousand). From Barcelona to San Sebastian - 400 km. They can be overcome either by rented car, or by train, or by bus.

See renfe.com for train schedules and fares.

The train from Barcelona to San Sebastian takes from 5 and a half hours to 7 and a half (depending on the type). The fare is from 35 euros to 48. Several trains a day.

Alsa buses (alsa.es) reach San Sebastian in 8 hours. The fare is 38 euros.

5. Approximately the same prices for the train and bus from Madrid to San Sebastian. And about the same time.

To choose the best option for getting to San Sebastian from Bilbao, Madrid or Barcelona, ​​use the site. On the same site you can buy tickets online.

With the help of the price calendar, you can see which months and days are the best prices for flights, and compare prices for flights to Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao.

Zurriola beach and Kursaal

To begin with, let's look at San Sebastian from the most advantageous side - let's walk along the coastline. Let's go from east to west.

The city has three sandy beaches and two hills with viewing platforms.

The first beach, Zurriola, is occupied by surfers. From morning to evening, on the nearby streets you can meet people with boards under their arms, hurrying to the ocean or returning from there.

However, ordinary people also bathe along the edges of the bay. Since we lived a stone's throw from Zurriola, we swam here.

Sculptures made of black stone are located on the embankment lined with black tiles. The embankment with sculptures matches the adjacent Palace of Congresses and the Kursaal Auditorium, a modern building of complex shape, built for various cultural events. In particular, film festivals and jazz festivals are held here every year.

Kursaal stands simultaneously on the ocean and on the river, at the confluence of the Urumea River into the Atlantic Ocean.

The Urumea River divides the city into two parts. Lined up opposite each other along the river are San Sebastian's most representative buildings.

Yellow house with a dome - hotel "Maria-Kristina"

Opposite the Victoria Eugenia Theater

There are beautiful bridges across the river.

Maria Christina Bridge

We cross the river along the Kursaal bridge and find ourselves on the green and spacious Donostia boulevard. We go to the tourism office and take a map of the city.

Old city and Urgull hill

Donostia Boulevard runs along the isthmus of a peninsula stretched into the ocean.

Donostia Boulevard

The peninsula ends with Urgull Hill. Between the hill and Donostia Boulevard lies the Old City.

There are not a lot of attractions in San Sebastian. Yes, and the Old City can be called "old" with a big stretch.

After the invasion of Napoleon, not much survived here: two churches and about thirty houses. Let's say this Gothic church of San Vicente is from the 16th century.

And the nearby church of Santa Maria del Coro - on the 18th.

Magnificent baroque portal

Between them, in the depths of the houses, there is a rectangular parade ground de la Constitution - the main square of the Old Town, where bullfights were once held.

Here is one of the old houses

Another attraction of San Sebastian is the San Telmo Art Museum, which is located in the building of a former monastery.

Near the San Telmo Museum, the ascent to Urgull Hill begins. There are several options for climbing to the top of the hill, in particular one of them is located behind the church of Santa Maria del Coro.

Rise to the level of church bells

Urgull Hill is covered with forest, paths are laid through the forest.

One of the paths leads to a modest cemetery of English sailors (they defended the fort from Napoleonic soldiers)

At the top is a former English fortress with cannons. There is a small museum in the fortress. It is free, but when passing through the museum, the employee asks what country you are from and notes (it can be seen for statistics).

The museum houses an exposition dedicated to the history of the city and the fortress. Samples of guns, military uniforms, schemes.

Photos in the museum

Bathing suits from the beginning of the last century

From the museum, a staircase leads to the observation deck, to the foot of the statue of Christ. This statue can be seen from many points in the city.

The observation deck offers a great view of the city.

Buon Pastor Church

You can see a bay curved in an arc with a strip of yellow beaches abutting another hill - Igeldo.

We go down to the other side of the hill and find ourselves near the local Aquarium and the Maritime Museum. A little further is the port.

The beaches of San Sebastian La Concha and Ondorreta

Having passed the port, we go to the most remarkable building of San Sebastian, which has become its hallmark - the City Hall. In the past, it housed a casino. (Casino in San Sebastian is still there, only located in a different place).

City Hall, or Ayuntamiento

There is a nice park in front of the City Hall. In general, this part of the city is the most pleasant. Here begins the wide and spacious beach of La Concha (“Shell”), and a promenade stretches along the beach from the city hall.

Statue of Jesus between the towers of City Hall. Visible people on the observation deck

La Concha beach

Waterfront clock

This elegant pavilion housed the royal baths.

Hotels line up on the left.

Concha beach rests on a rocky ledge. A tunnel has been cut through the rock.

Above this ledge is Miramar Castle, the former royal residence of Queen Maria Christina, built in 1893 in the English style.

The castle is now open to the public. Inside, everything is quite simple, no frills. The residence is "decorated" with modern installations.

Flowerbeds in front of the castle

Behind the rocky ledge begins the beach of Ondarreta.

Ondarreta beach

And opposite it is a quarter of private villas.

The beach of Ondarreta is 600 meters long and rests on the hill of Igueldo.

You can climb the hill by funicular (for 1.75 euros). However, it won't take long to get there. We took the funicular upstairs and walked back down.

Igeldo above the hill of Urgull. The statue of Christ is below.

Between the hills of Igeldo and Urgul, in the center of the bay, a small island of St. Clara sticks out of the water, popularly called the “Turtle”. On it, they say, there is also a small beach.

At the top of Igueldo there is a cafe and an amusement park. They even arranged a river along which you can sail in a boat, and all this is on the edge of the abyss.

And how do you like a trip on such a train? I think the kids will get a strong impression.

Walking along the ocean from one end of the city to the other can take about two hours.

City center. Cathedral of Buon Pastor

The beaches and promenade of San Sebastian are by far the most attractive part of the city. However, it is also pleasant to walk inside the city blocks.

The city, as I mentioned, was built in the Art Nouveau style. This style is characterized by smooth curved lines, floral ornaments, fluidity. Wandering around San Sebastian, you will stumble upon expressive details at every step. Looking at them is a pleasure!

Many parks, fountains, squares.

Gipuzkoa Plaza - park area

The dominant feature of this part of the city (the area is called Amara) is the Cathedral of the Good Pastor - Buon Pastor. The cathedral was built in the Neo-Gothic style in 1897, all under the same Queen Maria Christina. They say that the architect Echave made his project with an eye on the Cologne Cathedral.

Sunlight, penetrating the cathedral through stained-glass windows, paints the interior of the church.

City life boils around the cathedral, it can be said to be the heart of the city.

From the Cathedral of Buon Pastor originates the wide Loyola Calea, filled with shops.

Behind the cathedral is the building of the cultural center. And behind it stretches a pedestrian street with restaurants. And here we smoothly move on to the next section.

Food and drinks. Pinchos, tapas, pacharan

The basis of local catering is pintxos and tapas. The line between them is shaky, but it exists.

Tapas is a snack for one tooth: li tartlet, rosette with olives, nuts. Often their cost is included in the price of the ordered drink. So, at the bar, when ordering a mug of beer, they also gave me a plate with slices of chopped jamon. “Tapas” is translated as “lids” - historically, a glass of wine was covered, like a lid, with a small sandwich.

Tapas at the bar

If tapas is a common Spanish phenomenon, then pintxos was invented just in San Sebastian. "Pintxos" is a Basque word meaning "skewers" or "pins". Like, these are pieces of food strung on a skewer. But often mini-portions of ordinary dishes also belong to the category of pintxos. So, trying to figure out the menu, I saw the same names in the main dishes section and in the pintxos section. Only the main course cost about 12 euros, and pintxos with the same name - about 3. So there is a great opportunity not to take a “pig in a poke”, but to try a mini-portion of this “cat”.
The cost of pintxos is 2-3 euros. For a full meal, 3-4 things are enough. So, the first night I ordered 4 pintxos. They brought me a piece of beef stew, two large battered mussels, some other meat, and a goose liver sandwich. The foie gras was the most delicate, and subsequently I always took such a pintxo on occasion. True, in the first cafe it turned out to be the most delicious.

As in all of Spain, here in the course of the menu of the day - " menu del dia". It includes the first and second course (choice of 3-5 positions), wine, dessert and sometimes coffee. It turns out profitable. Such a menu of the day costs 9-15 euros.

Well, and, of course, in San Sebastian you have to eat fish and seafood (“Pescados y mariscos”). There are many restaurants with such signs in the port area, next to the Maritime Museum and the Aquarium. Some have menus in Russian.

Winemaking in the Basque Country has a long tradition, so I will not give any special recommendations. I think any of the local wines will not cause disappointment. I will only say about such local drinks as chakoli and pacharan.
Chakoli (“txacoli“) is a young, slightly carbonated wine with a greenish tint, very pleasant to the taste. Pacharan ("patxaran") - a symbiosis of anise tincture with liquor from the blackthorn. It seemed too sweet to me, but many pacharans like it.

As in all of Spain, the siesta is sacredly observed in the Basque Country. Try not to delay your lunch - restaurants usually close at 15:00.

I was in San Sebastian three times - twice in August and once - for the New Year holidays. In summer, both times the ocean was warm and calm (unlike Portugal and). Surprised that in winter there are also enough people. Vacationers strolled along the embankment, looked into shops, sat in cafes. Although, of course, the January evening San Sebastian looked sad, like any resort town in the off-season.

But in the summer it's nice here. So, if you want to visit the ocean, San Sebastian is not a bad option at all. No wonder he was so fond of the Spanish kings.

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San Sebastian is the favorite resort of the Spaniards, a real pearl of the Basque Country and one of the gastronomic capitals of Europe. People come here for the ocean, surfing, Michelin-starred restaurants, numerous pintxos bars and breathtaking views.

Remember, the second name of the city is Donostia (so it will be correct in the Basque language), both options are usually found on the signs.

The city is located on the shores of the Bay of Biscay of the Atlantic Ocean, and this immediately decides. Two or three days spent in San Sebastian are quite enough to fall in love with the city and even resolutely want to move here in old age - walk the dog along the promenade, keep fit by jogging, and spend time in the evenings in local bars, sipping wine and satisfying pintxos hunger.

In 2016, San Sebastian was named European Capital of Culture (together with Wroclaw, Poland). However, even without this, the city has enough status events - every September a film festival is held here, which is considered the most significant in Spanish-language cinema, and in July - one of the world's largest jazz festivals Jazzaldia.

TRANSPORT AND HOUSING

Most likely, first you will have to fly to Madrid (Ryanair from Vilnius) or Barcelona (Ryanair or Wizz Air - from the same place), and then take a bus ticket. Alsa has the largest network of routes, but the prices are rather high. If you take it in advance, you can buy a ticket for € 30 in both directions, if on the eve of the trip - tickets can cost € 70-90. Therefore, check the prices for the plane, it can even come out cheaper.

The nearest major airport is in Bilbao (San Sebastian also has its own airport, but flying there is extremely expensive), you can fly from Madrid and back for € 56 on Iberia, from Barcelona round-trip for € 60 Vueling will take you. Buses to San Sebastian run almost every hour directly from Bilbao Airport (a little over an hour to go), the carrier is Lurraldebus. In Bilbao, it absolutely makes sense to stay for a couple of days, but this is a topic for a separate discussion.

During the season (from May to September) in San Sebastian there can be expensive housing, the rest of the time - a little more affordable. We recommend staying near the old town ( Parte Vieja) - directly inside it can be too noisy. If you really want everything to be absolutely beautiful, find accommodation with an ocean view.

You can stay in guest houses or boarding houses - everything you need as in a hotel, but a little more economical. True, you will hardly find anything cheaper than € 40-50 per night for two.

Guest House Itxasoa (San Juan, 14) offers neat rooms with all amenities, small but cozy balconies, and most importantly - ocean views. Price per night - from € 50 in low season to € 77 in summer.

Pay attention to the hotel Parma (Paseo de Salamanca, 10)- it also has rooms with a view of the raging waves. If you travel by car, underground parking is a big plus.

But perhaps the best solution is to rent an apartment with your own kitchen. This will allow you not only to taste food in establishments, but also try to cook crab yourself, fry flounder or, at worst, taste oysters bought in a pescaderia (fish shop) next door. Welcome to Airbnb!

How to move around the city?

On foot. San Sebastian is not a very large city, only 185 thousand inhabitants. All the main places of the city are within walking distance. Also in Sens, as the city is sometimes called by locals, there is a convenient network of bus routes. Most of them drop off and pick up passengers at the Boulevard stop - this is the very center. The fare costs € 1.65, you can pay directly to the driver.

We have no doubt what to do in San Sebastian in the first place. No, don't rush to the pintxos bar, go say hello to the ocean.

There are three beaches in the city - the central and the most famous is called La Concha in honor of the bay of the same name. It's best for swimming, and if you google "San Sebastian" most of the pictures will show it. La Concha goes to the beach Ondaretta. But we found the most charming beach called La Zuriolla- it looks like a living set for a movie about surfers or - depending on the height of the waves - for a drama about a lonely writer walking along the coast with his shaggy dogs. The ocean here is more like the ocean, and the place itself is more remote, although up to one of the main attractions of the city - the Kursaal Auditorium (Avenida de Zurriola, 1)- give a hand. Kursaal or Congress Palace - a new building in 1999, containing several art spaces and concert halls - this is where the San Sebastian Film Festival is based.

Did you see the ocean? Inhaled the aroma of salty wind? Surprised at the courage of local bathers and bathers (unless, of course, you came to the city during the cold season)? Watched how Urumea river merges with the waters of the Atlantic? It's time and honor to know. Forward, to get acquainted with the unique gastronomic culture of local pintxos bars.

These establishments have, in general, the same and slightly intricate device, which we will help you figure out. Snacks are displayed on the bar counter - the famous pintxos, the basis and superstructure of the Basque cuisine, if not the entire Basque Country. As a rule, it looks like a sandwich with jamon, anchovy, various spreads, or something more intricate.

You ask the bartender for a plate (or take it yourself), fill it with whatever your heart desires (pinchos usually cost € 1.5-2), go to the cashier, order beer or wine - and pay. It is customary to eat and drink, leaning on the counter. In addition to the food displayed in plain sight, there are pintxos that can be prepared for you quite quickly - the menu is usually written in chalk on a blackboard. Two-bite mini steaks for €3.5 or the age-old Spanish patatas bravas (baked bulb with sauce) for €2.

In addition to wine and beer (a popular local lager is called Keler 18), local ciders are in use. They pour them beautifully - from a pot-bellied bottle into a large glass from a meter height (the main thing is that it foams and murmurs), however, they will pour 150 grams, so you can immediately ask for a “double” dose.

The third option is, in fact, the restaurant part of the institution, which, as a rule, is open at lunchtime and in the evening after 20.00. Sometimes it is visually separated from the bar, sometimes quickly successive pintxo lovers almost hang over the table where you solemnly decided to celebrate your first evening in the city.

Here are a couple of tips on where to start your acquaintance with unforgettable Basque gastronomy. Gastroteka Atari(Calle Mayor, 18). The institution is fashionable, even has its own website. There are a lot of people at any time of the day. Hard to find a free table in the evening. Try the octopus with baked potatoes.

Next to it is a tavern Gandarias (31 de Agosto, 31), which is simply adored by the locals - there are very friendly bartenders (which, in fact, is far from always found), really tasty pintxos and almost the lowest prices in the city. But it is for pintxos - because in a restaurant the bill for two will be about € 60-70, which is a little expensive for Sanse.

It is pointless to advise something else: seek and you will find! Most of the pintxos establishments are concentrated in the old town - stroll along the streets of Portu, San Jeronimo, Nagusia, Pescaderia and other streets framing Constitution Square. It is easy to understand that the institution is worth a look: most likely, there will be a lot of people inside. Prices are about the same everywhere: for a plate of pintxos for two and drinks, you will give an average of € 15.

Pay attention also to lunch offers from restaurants. As a rule, they will cost €30-40 for two and include a first course, second course, dessert and a bottle of wine for two. We unconditionally liked it in a simple-looking, but quite exquisite restaurant Morgan (Narrika, 7), as well as in Ubarrechena(Calle Mayor, 16)- they serve excellent paella and excellent desserts. Don't forget to treat yourself to the local fish soup - it's amazing.

Basques - and the people of San Sebastian in particular - with rare exceptions, are very honest about their gastronomic mission. There are practically no tourist places with a "razvodilovo" that would differ from places "for one's own". If you just ask to bring “your local wine”, they will bring you a really budget and running option. The lunch menu often includes something like unlimited wine - they will bring you a bottle, drink as much as you want.

We will assume that you are full and satisfied. It's time to explore the main (except the ocean) local attractions. Walking around the old city, you probably noticed Basilica of Santa Maria(31 de Agosto, 46), the most beautiful church in the city. Literally a hundred meters from her - Church of San Vicente (San Juan, 15). The main temple of the city is the Gothic Cathedral(Urdaneta, 12), erected at the end of the 19th century (it is also called the Buen Pastor Cathedral).

If Darwin's theory excites you more than divine origin - feel free to go to Aquarium (Plaza de Carlos Blasco Imaz, 1). The institution proudly calls itself "the best oceanographic museum in Europe", which, of course, can be argued with. In addition to various artifacts from the life of San Sebastian associated with the ocean, there is, in fact, an oceanarium where you can stick around looking at sharks, moray eels and several dozen more species of various marine reptiles. The ticket costs € 13, for students - discounts.

Another museum, which, perhaps, is worth honoring with your attention - San Telmo Museum(Plaza Zuloaga, 1). We would call it “local history” - the museum is dedicated, first of all, to the history of San Sebastian and its environs. Keeps a collection of archaeological artifacts, but also has a collection of paintings - mostly the work of local artists. One of the buildings of the museum is located in the building of the monastery of the XVI century. Ticket - € 6.

If the strength has not yet left, you can climb Mount Urgull- on top of it stands the medieval fortress of La Mota (part of the San Telmo Museum) and a statue of Christ. However, you can only go up here on foot. If the legs hurt, then, we will immediately make a reservation that no less picturesque view opens from mountains of Igueldo on the opposite side of the bay - and there, thank all the gods, there is a funicular.

We suggest starting the second day with a jog along the embankment. We hope you brought your sneakers with you? In San Sebastian, everyone runs, regardless of age, in the city center there are specialized sports shops for runners - and looking at this, you will definitely want to get out for a run at least once.

If jogging still didn’t work out, go for breakfast in a cafe caravanserai (Del Buen Pastor Plaza, 14) located right next to the Cathedral. Be sure to try the potato and egg pie, which is offered in all bars only in the morning. He's pretty good here too.

After refreshing, you can move on shopping. In the city of surfers, it is worth stocking up in surfer shops. There are plenty of them in the city, but we advise you to check how merciful Mercury is to you in the Pukas store (Calle Mayor, 5). This shop is as cool as its name - if you don't need a board, then just rummage around in branded clothes. Real surfers don't carry anything on themselves!

• Hot tours to Spain

San Sebastian is a former fishing village and the largest exporter of olive oil to England and France, and today the largest city in the Basque Country, one of the most elegant and fashionable Spanish resorts and a paradise for surfers.

San Sebastian owes the birth of resort life to the wife of Emperor Napoleon III, Eugenia Montijo, who first brought the imperial court here. Modern San Sebastian is a resort mainly for Europeans: the French or the British rest here, and you can hardly meet Russians and Asians here.

Along with Madrid and Barcelona, ​​San Sebastian is considered one of the most expensive cities in Spain.

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How to get there

By plane

San Sebastian has its own airport, but there are no direct flights from Russia to this city. With a transfer in Madrid or Barcelona, ​​Iberia and Vueling fly here, the ticket price is from 300 EUR (round trip). The airport is located 22 km from the city center. You can get from there to the center by regular buses (they run often, the fare is 1.65-2.35 EUR) or by taxi (8-10 EUR). Prices on the page are for September 2018.

There are four more airports in the vicinity of San Sebastian: in Bilbao, Vitoria, Pamplona and Biarritz.

By train

Air communication between San Sebastian and Russia is not very convenient, so many tourists prefer to fly to Madrid or Barcelona, ​​and from there get to the city by land.

• The train from Barcelona runs three times a day: at 7:30, 14:10 and 15:30. Travel time - from 5.5 to 7 hours, depending on the train, fare - from 25.90 EUR one way.

• Trains from Madrid run 5 times a day, the first at 7:30 and the last at 17:35. The journey takes about 5 hours, the fare is from 22.15 EUR one way.

San Sebastian is a large city, so there are trains from all over Spain, France, and there are also night trains from Paris and Lisbon.

If you are coming from France, be careful as this country has its own San Sebastian and it is a completely different city.

By bus

Bus service in the Basque Country, as well as in Spain as a whole, is well established. Buses are traditionally cheaper than trains, but the journey will be longer. The road from Bilbao to San Sebastian will take about 1.5 hours and will cost 6-7 EUR one way. The bus from Madrid to San Sebastian takes 6-6.5 hours, the ticket costs from 15 EUR one way.

Search for flights to Barcelona (nearest airport to San Sebastian)

Weather in San Sebastian

The climate in San Sebastian is temperate Atlantic. In summer there is no strong heat, the temperature rarely rises above +25 °C. The maximum number of tourists falls on the period from May to September, at this time it is almost always sunny here, but in winter and in the off-season it is often rainy.

By mid-November, the weather deteriorates, and in winter it is usually no more than + 7 ... + 10 ° C. In the second half of April it becomes warm again - the air warms up to +20 ° C, and everything blooms.

San Sebastian is located on the ocean, so the water in the local bays is not as warm as in other Spanish resorts. Comfortable swimming temperature is from July to September.

The Atlantic climate is quite unpredictable: in the off-season, it is equally likely to be cloudy and rainy, as well as sunny.

San Sebastian Hotels

Most hotels in San Sebastian are concentrated in the city center (El Centro). The center, in turn, is usually divided into two parts: the Old Quarter (parte vieja) and Miraconcha (Miraconcha).

The main city attractions are located in the Old Quarter, it is very colorful and beautiful, and there are many bars and restaurants. However, it can be noisy here at night, and as many hotels occupy historical buildings, there are interruptions in hot water and other amenities.

In the Miraconcha area, the hotels are more modern, it is here that the main city beach and a beautiful promenade along it are located. Accordingly, the prices in this quarter are the highest in the city.

There are several interesting areas outside the historic center. It is also convenient to live in, there are relatively few tourists, and prices are slightly lower than in the center:

• Amara vieja (Old Amara) - this residential area is adjacent to the center and is considered prestigious among the local population.
• Gros is the shopping center of the city, there are many shops, street cafes and inexpensive bars. It is here that the surfer beach Zuriola is located.
• El Antiguo is a quiet and calm quarter, which is often chosen by families with children; the Ondarreta family beach is located here.
• Eguia is a green area, there is a large urban park Cristina Enea and the main railway station.

The most luxurious hotel in San Sebastian is Maria Cristina, a luxury collection 5 *, the only five-star hotel in the city, located overlooking the Bay of Biscay. From June to October, the hotel's restaurant is run by Michelin-starred French chef Hélène Darroz. A double room here costs from 500 EUR per day.

A 4 * hotel in the city center will cost from about 80-150 EUR, a good three-ruble note can be rented from 60 EUR, a room in a guest house - from 45 EUR per day for a double room, and a bed in a hostel - from 20 EUR per day per person.

The beaches of San Sebastian

Famous Playa de la Concha(Playa de la Concha) in the shape of a crescent is located in the city center in a quiet bay, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Tourists and locals love it for its well-groomed and beautiful views. Right on the shore, there is the la Perla spa, which offers health and beauty treatments.

In the center of the bay, repeating the shape of a shell, there is a small island of Santa Clara with a small lighthouse on top, surrounded by many sailing yachts. Two mountains rise on both sides of the bay: on the left is a beautiful castle and an amusement park, on the right is a statue of Christ.

Playa de Ondaretta(Playa de Ondaretta) - a quieter and calmer clean beach with coarse yellow sand. This is a popular place for a measured family vacation, as there are often waves here, and then surfers come to this beach. It is separated from Playa de da Concha by the Pico del Loro rock: for the convenience of vacationers, a tunnel has been cut through it.

Beach Playa de Zurriola(Playa de Zuriola) was formerly known as Playa de Gros (Playa de Gros). It is open to all winds and therefore very popular among surfers, there are always a lot of young people here. In 1994, for safety, a breakwater was built here, and the beach area was expanded by adding sand. There are sports fields, many beach bars, surf schools and board rentals, and concerts, festivals and parties are often held here.

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Shopping in San Sebastian

Residents of San Sebastian have a reputation for fashion in Spain. In the Old Town there are many shops and boutiques of both luxury and middle price segment. Most of the presented brands are Spanish (some of them do not reach Russia), but there are other popular European brands. Most shops are located on Libertad Avenue.

Spanish delicacies are best bought at the Mercado San Martin and Mercado de la Bretxa food markets, and interesting souvenirs at prices lower than other shops are sold at Akuna matata.

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Cuisine and restaurants

Basque cuisine is considered the best in all of Spain. It is in San Sebastian that there are several restaurants that have earned Michelin stars.

There are only two Michen-starred restaurants in the world, one in Paris and the other in San Sebastian.

San Sebastian's restaurants serve traditional Basque dishes, seafood in all sorts of variations and the famous pintxos. Pinchos are a local variety of Spanish tapas, small sandwiches or canapés with all sorts of fillings. They are served here everywhere - from small eateries to elegant restaurants of author's cuisine. It is customary to drink them with beer, wine, in particular the traditional Basque white sparkling wine Chakoli (Txakoli), or apple cider (sidra). It is made here according to a special traditional recipe and sold in the same bottles as cava (Spanish sparkling wine).

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Excellent pintxos are served at the Casa Valles gastropub next to the Cathedral. Bar Nagusia on the street of the same name is a real museum of pintxos, there is perhaps the largest selection in the city. Prices start from 2.90 EUR per piece. For seafood, you should go to the La Mejilonera restaurant, for traditional Basque cuisine (there are also a lot of seafood and excellent meat) - in La Cuchara de San Telmo or in La Zurri Jatetxea in the Old City.

Arzak is the same restaurant that has been awarded three Michelin stars. This is a family restaurant of new Basque cuisine, the menu is updated every six months, the signature dish is smoked white tuna with fresh figs and pine nuts. The tasting menu costs from 200 EUR per person, excluding drinks.

In more democratic establishments, it is quite possible to dine for 50 EUR for two; for lunch, many of them offer a set menu costing from 10 EUR per person. You can also have a snack in pintxos bars for 10 EUR per person, excluding drinks.

Guides in San Sebastian

Entertainment and attractions of San Sebastian

Despite the fact that San Sebastian in its entire history has repeatedly burned down almost to the ground, some architectural monuments are still preserved here. In the Old City, called Alde Sajarra, it is worth visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro (named after the patron saint of San Sebastian), built in the Baroque style; Church of St. Vincent - a neo-Gothic building of the 19th century, and in the ethnographic museum of San Telmo, in the building of which at the foot of Mount Urgull in the 16th century there was a monastery. Today, historical evidence of the richest Basque culture is stored here, and the walls of the museum are painted with frescoes based on the history of the region and Basque legends.

One of the most unusual museums in the city is the Aquarium Sea Palace near the port. In fact, these are two small museums in one - the first tells about the history of the Basque fishing, the second about the naval history of the region. The museum has transparent tunnels through which you can watch sharks and other marine life.

The old quarter in the city center (parte vieja - "parte vieja") is one big attraction in itself. In its center is Constitution Square, which once served as a bullfighting arena. There is an old library building on the square - formerly the city hall was located here, and nearby - the Ayet Palace in the neoclassical style - the former residence of Franco, and the Miramar Palace, located between the beaches of Playa de la Concha and Playa de la Ondaretta, - former residence of Queen Maria Christina.

Where to go in San Sebastian

The landmark of the city, its symbol was the La Concha embankment with its famous balustrades and lanterns. The new quarters of San Sebastian, thanks to the proximity of France, are imbued with motifs of French romantic architecture: Art Nouveau buildings, Belle Epoque and even the futuristic cubes of the Kursaal Congress Center, which was recognized as the best building in Europe in 2001.

From the top of Mount Igueldo, which can be reached by funicular, offers panoramic views of the city and the coast.

Along the bay there is a beautiful pedestrian promenade - a great place for romantic walks. In its western part there is a symbolic sculpture "El Peine del Viento" - "The Comb of the Wind" by Eduardo Chillida. It symbolizes the end of the beach and the mainland itself, washed by the waves of the Atlantic Ocean on three sides. In fact, these are intricately twisted rails, embedded in a rocky dead end, through the rusty iron balls of which waves pass. The essence of the monument is to remind that nothing man-made can withstand the forces of nature.

West of San Sebastian begins the picturesque rocky coast of Costa Basca - the birthplace of sparkling wine "chakoli" (txakoli) and the area of ​​​​many ancient cities.

5 things to do in San Sebastian:

1. Check out the Tourist Office for free city break tips.
2. No matter the weather, get your feet wet in the Bay of Biscay.
3. Climb up the hill to the statue of Christ.
4. Go around as many tapas bars as you can in an evening.
5. Having warmed up with cider or something stronger, go to a disco and have fun until the morning.

Maps of San Sebastian

Events

Life in the city is bustling. In July, San Sebastian hosts the most famous jazz festival in Europe, Jazzaldia, and in September, an international film festival. Among other cultural events, it is worth noting a theater festival, an advertising festival, a surfing film festival, an electronic music festival, a children's "tamborrada" on St. Sebastian's day (competition of young drummers on the streets of the city). Several times a year, stages of various world and European sailing regattas are held in San Sebastian.

It is located away from the main tourist routes known to Russians. This is a city that Russian-speaking vacationers can visit only by chance or attracted to it by a business exhibition, film festival or other cultural event. San Sebastian is little mentioned in the mainstream guidebooks of Spain, and among Russians, the city is not considered a popular travel destination. And I must say frankly - very in vain!

If you are a Russian, then you will most likely have to go on a trip to San Sebastian from Barcelona, ​​since a powerful tourist flow runs through this city, feeding all of coastal Spain with travelers and their money. For this very reason, it is highly likely that, while relaxing or living in Spain, you will find yourself in Catalonia, on one of its coasts or directly in Barcelona.

But if you are a tourist who is not the first time basking in the Mediterranean sun and is sure that Spain is unlikely to be able to surprise you with something else, then San Sebastian is “registered” for you without fail. If you have lived in Spain for several years, then consider San Sebastian seriously claims to be a rival to all your favorite national holiday destinations. In fact, it will turn out to be an unpredictably different city, radically and advantageously different from the crowded resort coasts of the Costa Brava, Costa del Sol or the like, “promoted” throughout the world. Arguments "for" a trip to San Sebastian, which is planned to be given below, will be considered in detail and gradually. Believe me, the city deserves it!

Road to San Sebastian

Mercedes S 500, average speed 120 km/h, four passengers on board

The recommended means of transportation on this trip will unconditionally be a good comfortable car, from the window of which all the landscapes are especially attractive. And not only because the exact distance from Barcelona to San Sebastian according to the maps is 580 kilometers of fantastic mountain slopes and romantic foggy distances. Add here the length of all the hospitable streets of the three pearls of Spain, which you cannot miss along the way. These are Lleida, Zaragoza and Pamplona. The highway that leads us to San Sebastian runs through these beautiful and ancient cities of Spain, and it would be an imprudent mistake to pass by without stopping. For example, in Lleida and Zaragoza there are chic, religiously awe-inspiring cathedrals, seeing which you can easily become an ardent Catholic for a while. And in Pamplona, ​​you can warm up by running in the company of angry bulls along the narrow shady streets, fighting off them with a newspaper rolled up into a tube. And to be honest, you need to drive through these towns on the eve of a meeting with San Sebastian, a city unlike any other in Spain.

The quality of the roads is excellent. Multi-lane toll autobahns with an ideal smooth surface, without turns, will bring real pleasure to every driver. The speed limit on the roads varies from 80 to 120 km per hour. For exceeding the mark of 200 km per hour on the speedometer, the driver will immediately be called a criminal and may be imprisoned. There are many gas stations along the highway, fuel is plentiful, and there are usually cafes nearby where you can find something to eat.

On the way we will definitely have lunch. Lerida, after tasting a medieval roast, so as not to get hungry until a late dinner, which is sure to happen in Zaragoza. Here we will spend the night. And leaving in the morning for San Sebastian, we will ride under a strange concrete arch, into which, as it turns out, the invisible Greenwich meridian(Meridiano de Greenwich), passing through Spanish soil. Further, the attention of travelers is suddenly riveted by hordes of snow-white graceful giants - Don Quixote's favorite enemies, who have matured and made great progress in their technical development over the past two centuries. With these windmills, he would certainly not have been able to cope even with the help of Rocinante and Sancho Panza combined.

Hundreds of state-of-the-art wind-powered power generators sit on the many hills and uplands along the freeway. From afar, the eye does not immediately perceive the real size of these devices, but when you drive closer to one of them, there is no doubt - they are gigantic! No less impressive is the scale of the use of solar energy. On several plateaus, instead of the usual olive groves or orange plantations, countless cohorts of hefty silver-cadmium tablets, recruited from photocells, froze. When you look into the distance, you understand - there are thousands of them!

At the sixth hundred kilometers, at the entrance to San Sebastian, the wide expressway narrows to a single lane and begins to wag. And on both sides the highway is surrounded by steep slopes covered with impenetrable lush forest. It turns out that the city is well protected from all sides by nature itself. This played a role in its history, wars and victories. Until now, the Basques, the people living on this land, cannot come to terms with the power of Spain that has annexed them, they are constantly engaged in separatist subversive activities and want to achieve complete independence of the region. Probably, they really want to finally sit quietly in their mountains in splendid isolation and not let anyone in. So that suddenly the enemies do not come and eat all their delicious sandwiches!

City of San Sebastian - tourist impressions

First decade of April

We suddenly find ourselves in the city. We had just been surrounded by a dense forest on all sides, when suddenly, instead of oaks and cypresses, modern multi-storey buildings made of mirror glass and smooth gray concrete hang over the road. It instantly catches the eye that the streets are beautifully landscaped, there are many well-groomed trees of exotic species on flowering lawns, spacious squares and parks are laid out along the road, appropriate fountains beat in cozy squares and talented sculptural compositions froze. The overall impression is inspiring, I want to immediately stop and walk along these streets.

We approach the hotel, which, according to the map, is located a step away from the Bay of Biscay (Mar Cantabrico) and the embankment of the city river. Although let's not forget, His Majesty the Atlantic Ocean itself is hidden under the name of the bay. After all, there are no physical boundaries between water flows.

Our luxurious five-star Hotel Maria Cristina overlooks the river Urumea, which geographically divides the city into two parts. We get out of the car and at the same moment we understand by the smell - the ocean is nearby! It is curious that, by Spanish standards, April is the height of spring, and, for example, in Catalonia at this time of the year it is already quite warm, they go for a walk in a light shirt, the ground is warm, and even by the sea the wind is gentle, promising an early summer. But there is no warm Mediterranean Sea in San Sebastian. Here the host is the harsh Atlantic Ocean, which means that everything is different with the weather.

Despite the sunny day, the spicy air seems to be saturated with freshly opened cool oysters, freshly caught sea kale and touches the face with a barely perceptible frosty chill. He gently tickles his nostrils with icy breath and envelops the guests with an unusual chilly aura. Even after a few hours spent walking around San Sebastian, this scent of the ocean does not fade, but continues to be clearly distinguished throughout the skin and with every breath. Its invisible icy radiation from the vast masses of salt water with an average temperature of no higher than 9 degrees Celsius extends deep into the mainland and freely penetrates through houses and walls, as well as into the bodies of warm-blooded vacationers walking along the beach and the embankment. But the effect is so invigorating that fatigue from a long journey dissolves without a trace in a matter of minutes, obviously not without the participation of the coastal ocean atmosphere with a high oxygen content.

In summer it is not as hot here as in the south of Spain, and the water is crystal clear. But even in the city bay you have to keep your eyes peeled. Insidious ocean currents can suddenly send a swimmer of any skill level to the forefathers. When looking from the parapet of the embankment at the seething waters at the mouth of the Urumea, one immediately reads the anomalously powerful and rapid movement of huge layers of water. I don't want to swim here.

When you first go to the city embankment and see the Atlantic, few will be able to resist the enthusiastic exclamations. The power of the water element strikes a person at the animal level, causes awe and scares a little. In the vast expanse of gray, like blued steel, ocean surface, something primal and promising danger is dormant. An unkind prediction is perceived by the city wall, which encloses the beach and protects people from storms. Its height, by the way, is six times greater than the breakwaters in Barcelona. Contradictory mixed feelings overwhelm the chest, but it is impossible to break away from the contemplation of the almighty abyss. Consciousness understands the dangers hidden in the depths, but the greatness of this cold power captures and hypnotizes. But now the hands are already beginning to get goosebumps, the nose is turning blue, and you have to force yourself to go to bask in the taverns of the old city.

San Sebastian - pure little Paris

The city of San Sebastian is small. Only about two hundred thousand people live in it. When you first visit the central district, you immediately find yourself in the heart of the city. There, marble paving stones, washed to a shine and rubbed with the shoes of sailors and port revelers, are waiting for the guest, and along it are endless rows of bars, pubs and cafes that close only a few hours a day to quickly wash the floor and prepare a new portion of delicious sandwiches.

The architecture of the city is on the verge of toy beauty. The government spares neither money nor materials for the repair and restoration of buildings. All facades are impeccably plastered, perfectly painted in bold but strict shades. A huge amount of forging, marble and architectural extravagances that are pleasing to the eye. The phenomenal eclectic success in the unity of the urban style is achieved by relying on aristocracy and fundamentality. Lampposts, park fences and bench supports are solid cast iron with exquisite scrollwork and plant symbols. On the streets there is not a single extra shiny piece of iron with which the stingy city authorities love to disfigure the Spanish province so much. A special charm is given to everything by the names of streets and shops, written in large beautiful angular font in the native Basque language.

Also, San Sebastian puzzles with its cleanliness. For several days of idle wandering through its streets, you involuntarily come across a banal question: “But who keeps order here?”. Objectively, it is worth recognizing that nowhere in Europe, and even more so in Spain, we have not seen such impeccably clean sidewalks. Almost impossible to find even a candy wrapper! And this does not mean at all that you are on the territory of an abandoned alley. Even on the central avenue, impeccable cleanliness, close to disinfection, is everywhere. During the walks for 4 days, not a single dirty street was found. Let's say more, a suspicious feeling of mystical magic, used by the residents of San Sebastian to clean the city of household garbage, creeps into the soul of a visitor. Because it is impossible to clean the city in the ways known to Europeans!

Spanish Armenians

According to some studies, the Basques are considered close relatives of modern Armenians, who migrated from the Caucasus 3.5 thousand years ago, approximately from the territory of modern Georgia, and moved to dense forests on the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula. The proof of this is more than 1000 words in Escuara (Basque language), which completely coincide with their counterparts in modern Armenian.

Shopping in San Sebastian

For fashionistas and shopaholics, San Sebastian will be heaven on earth. There is a myriad of glamorous boutiques and prestigious shops with quality rags of all imaginable world brands. In 2009, San Sebastian was officially recognized as the most expensive place to live, here are the highest real estate prices in Spain, and the ordinary population flaunts only in Prada suits and Chanel handbags. Unlike Barcelona or Madrid, where the luxury clothing trade is dominated by shops opened directly by manufacturers, San Sebastian has more than a hundred small private boutiques that boldly dictate their rules to customers. Their owners are mostly well-to-do women with exquisite taste, who gather seasonal assortment from the ultra-fresh collections of European fashion designers, talentedly combining things in color, materials and styles. In such a store, the customer gets the impression that he sees a new prestigious brand, the existence of which he did not suspect before. True, for the companions of insatiable fashionistas, all these endless chic shop windows will soon turn into an instrument of slow torture. Fortunately, there are quite convenient shops near the shops, where it is pleasant to sit down and put women's trophies in anticipation of handing over to the man, like a beast of burden, another bright paper bag with purchases.

There are several cheerful shops selling national souvenirs and paraphernalia. Be sure to buy a Basque beret! A magical thing, very comfortable and comfortable, especially if it rains. Just ask the seller to show you how to put it on correctly. Do not laugh, but a correctly worn beret painfully resembles the woolen “airfield” caps that were so popular among the Caucasian peoples during the Soviet era. This is clearly another indirect evidence in favor of the theory of the Armenian roots of the local population.

SPA center

From entertainment for tourists in the city there are several additional options. After exhausting shopping, it will be useful for the back muscles to look into the La Perla Marine Spa, located directly on the ocean surf. This is a modern enterprise based on the cult of making financial profit from the flow of wealthy vacationers, but with a touch of common sense and tolerable prices.

Spa center is spacious, located on two levels and with a wide range of preventive treatments, natural treatments and aesthetic services on the third floor of a common building. Entrance to the bubbling pool block costs 25 euros per person for a 2 hour stay. The water there is real ocean, heated and purified. On the first level there is a large water tank with hydromassage jets and a giant Jacuzzi for 12 people, as well as comfortable couches with infrared heating for bones tired of trying on new clothes. One floor below there is another series of pools, several saunas, both dry and wet, and various showers with contrasting water temperatures.

Toward evening, the whole complex shimmers with multi-colored lights from countless LEDs, closed in a single logical circuit and synchronously changing the shades of the common space, depending on the style of music accompanying the rest. A nice trendy place, it's nice to drop in here for both a young couple and pensioners. Swimming trunks and a swimsuit can be sold right at the entrance for an additional 40 euros. If you have just met and you have a romantic period, then in the main pool, rhythmically partitioned off by stone slabs, there are many intimate corners where you can easily retire among the seething salty waterfalls. The depth there is about one and a half meters, the water temperature is +31 C.

Entertainment

San Sebastian has its own casino. This is a small provincial institution, designed for a hundred visitors who do not seek immediate enrichment. Located in the city center, they try to take 8 euros for the entrance to it. But if you say that you are staying in one of the five-star hotels and show the key to your room, they will let you in for free. The bright scarlet color in the interior is somewhat surprising. Everything is red here, from the clothes of the croupier to the tables and even the upholstery of the walls. Therefore, the usual bloody dress will not give fatal women any privileges, except that it will merge with the staff. Perhaps it would be better for them to dress in white this time. The croupiers are professional, the starting rates are low, from 2.5 euros per chip. Drinks are all paid, snacks too, winnings at the box office are given out reluctantly, without smiles and congratulations, looking reproachfully after you. Actually, the typical features of a provincial institution ... But in its own way this is a good place for real gentlemen who have decided to spend a quiet weekday evening in a social way, while their ladies alternate massage with peeling in the spa center next door. Do not take more than a thousand euros with you if you are just going to relax. This is enough for half the night of the gambling process, but please, without fanaticism. It's just entertainment, not a goldmine.

Discos in San Sebastian are nothing special. This is not Ibiza. There's something sluggish going on on the dance floor all night, you sip your cocktail in a corner and slowly get ready for bed. For a basic Martini with ice, they charge 14 euros. The audience is a fashionable middle-aged well over thirty, pretentiously dressed up, does not hesitate to show off in full growth, which in itself becomes a pleasant sight. There are three main points out of a dozen popular ones, each taxi driver will tell you how to get to them. By the way, for a taxi in San Sebastian, they immediately take 5.4 euros upon landing. In contrast to Barcelona, ​​where the landing price is 2.9, this is a bit annoying. Taxis are white, with a light indication unit on top of the cab. It is easier to call them through an employee in a hotel or a waiter in a restaurant.

Food in San Sebastian

As such, the national cuisine in the Basque Country is rich in seafood and is focused on actively eating them in all possible interpretations and combinations. The world-famous tiny mouth-watering snacks "pintxos" have firmly taken the place of a national symbol and are traditionally displayed in street bars for consumption with beer, wine and cider. These delicious morsels include hundreds of sandwiches, canapés, mini-kebabs, and everything imaginable.

From early morning until late at night, bars and cafes tempt every passer-by with their dishes. It is unbearably difficult to pass by when, at arm's length, in the rays of bright halogen bulbs, your favorite dishes hang over the edge of huge plates and smell terribly attractive. Dozens of bars are located so close to each other that sometimes they are separated by a wall less than a meter thick. A walk along such a street is more like visiting a gastronomic exhibition than a city historical center.

Despite such an abundance of establishments gathered in one place, they all have their own differences, their own unique recipes, as well as regulars who drop by every day for a glass of beer at lunch and in the evening. Curiously, all the bars have enough customers, and during the hours of the general meal, you need to use skill to get to the counter. The skills of waiters deserve respect, who unobtrusively, but unmistakably, determine the exact number of snacks from any distance that the visitor has chosen and put on his own plate.

There are some unusual recipes that are worth talking about. They take tiny sardines, quickly fry in boiling oil with garlic cloves and pieces of hot chili peppers. As an appetizer it is delicious and stimulates the desire to order a second beer. I was also surprised by the form of preparation of ripe fleshy tomatoes. They are cut into large rings, fried until golden brown on both sides, and then baked with ham and cheese in batter. It turns out such a weighty and satisfying cake, when eaten, contrasting tastes mix, which gives an enchanting result. It goes well with apple cider because of its own slight sourness.

The price for drinks and snacks in the street bars of San Sebastian is not cheap. Considering that a microscopic amount of products is used to prepare canapes, and the main component is a thin slice from a banal loaf of white bread, the price of 3 or even 4 euros per unit of snack is perceived uncomfortable. But what to do? The glamorous atmosphere of a prestigious resort for the European beau monde must be paid for by someone.

Unobtrusive arbitrariness reigns in the restaurants of San Sebastian. According to the results of many days of field research, they revealed the shameless financial exploitation of wealthy tourists from all over the world and the widespread feeding of ordinary cooking at exorbitant prices under the guise of Basque delicacies. Without knowing the right places, you can find yourself in an unpleasant situation. The prices are exorbitant, designed for older Americans who waited until retirement for a magical dinner in the Basque Country and never tasted an authentic Spanish yummy in their entire long working life. Therefore, such customers are ready to pay one hundred euros per person for dishes of dubious quality and quantity. In order not to accidentally keep them company, you will need a detailed knowledge of the area and traditions of cheating tourists.

Don't ask for "good restaurant" at the hotel.

They will only earn interest on you, send you to a tourist eatery, where you will have to eat all sorts of nonsense. Better use the address below or ask a random passerby for advice in Spanish.

To everyone's surprise, in San Sebastian they pretend not to know about the existence of the divine fresh shrimp from the Catalan palamos (Gamba de Palamos). Here, for the same money, they serve, as it were, fresh “de Huelva” shrimp (Gamba fresca de Huelva), pale orange in color, half the size, without a juicy head, and from the “paradise” taste of which, according to restaurant owners, the client you need to roll your eyes and fall back. They may not be ordered. The difference from the same frozen penny counterparts is negligible, and the price is under thirty euros for a dozen. But, as always, the patient and skillful separation of the wheat from the chaff brings its useful results. After three tragic mistakes, we discovered restaurant "Urola"(Restaurante Urola). In it, all the food wanderings of the last days paid off a hundredfold.

The Urola restaurant is a tiny family business where the tables are so tightly packed that, after chatting and poking a fork into the nearest plate, you can easily make a mistake and eat a piece of food from an unfamiliar neighbor. But it's cozy and clean, the elderly staff are paternally friendly. And the quality of the cuisine won the hearts and stomachs of the whole company from the first course.

As an appetizer, they served fresh cod belly with white asparagus in rosento egg sauce (Huevo Rosendo con kokotxa fresca de merluza y esparrago). It is the finest mixture in the form of a thick egg broth with fragments of the most delicate fish, airy asparagus and several wild spices. Instantly improves mood.

For the second, we were treated to shellfish with artichoke sprouts in their own juice (Brotes de alcachofa con almejas). Here we will discuss two important points for a gourmet. The first moment is a real find! These are tiny, just started artichoke buds, which turned out to be several times more tender and tastier than their adult version. The question is, where are they sold to ordinary people? And secondly, the term “almeja” is translated into Russian as “sea mollusk”. And that's it. A shameful and today irreparable omission. Like Russian pancakes, syrniki and pies can be translated into any foreign language simply by the term “fried”.

And finally, the live Atlantic lobster became the main and long-awaited dish on our table. He, violently kicking and fighting for life, was pompously removed from the aquarium and demonstrated to customers. At this moment, the two-kilogram lobster took the last chance to avenge himself and sprinkled his tormentors with salt water. For this insolence, he was quickly fried on a hot stove with olive oil. We ate it in a minute and now we testify responsibly. It was the most delicious lobster among many of its fellows, which we have repeatedly tried in different countries over 10 years of travel.

Perhaps all the small roughness in the San Sebastian catering system can be easily forgiven for this one Atlantic lobster that lives in local waters and is unconditionally a fat and fragrant reason to drive six hundred kilometers to taste it. It also wins in terms of cost. The restaurant sells it by live weight, and the price is only 85 euros per kilogram, which is exactly two times cheaper than in other provinces of Spain. Don't neglect the limbs! The most delicious pieces are hidden in the bony head of a sea animal. When all the meat lying on the plate in direct access to an ordinary fork is eaten, it is necessary to steadfastly and ruthlessly crush the prickly shell and thin long legs with tongs, extracting the precious pulp. Bon appetit!