To the hydra island as a team. Sightseeing in Hydra - things to see

Hydra was the last island on our 10 day Aegean sailing trip.
And I must say that we have not in vain left the most delicious for the end.
Hydra is an incredibly colorful island, not at all like the others we visited on this trip, soulful and completely devoid of cars...
No one is in a hurry here, there is always a forest of yacht masts in a small cozy marina, here is one of the most delicious cappuccinos in the world.
The famous film "Boy on a Dolphin" with Sophia Loren in the title role was filmed here and many celebrities like to visit here...

2. Hydra Island is located just off the east coast of the Peloponnese and is part of the Saronic Islands.
The relative proximity to the large port of Piraeus made this island one of the favorite vacation spots for the inhabitants of Athens.
At the peak of the season, the resident population, which is approximately 3,000 people, is simply lost among the numerous tourists.

3. In ancient times, Hydra was a sparsely populated island, Herodotus mentions it only in passing, and the first major settlement dates only from the Mycenaean era.
But everything changed in the 16th century. At this time, Hydra became a refuge for those who tried to hide from the constant clashes between the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire. They were mostly refugees from the territory of modern Albania.
In the middle of the XVIII century, the inhabitants of the island began to build ships and engaged in maritime trade. At the same time, do not disdain piracy.
They sailed to Egypt and the Black Sea, and during the Napoleonic Wars they transported goods to England, despite the prohibition stipulated by the law on the Continental Blockade.

4. Since the island paid taxes on time, the Ottoman Empire practically did not pay attention to it, and by XIX Idra had gained power and strength. The vast majority of the majestic mansions on the island were built with the money of local merchants. At the zenith of Hydra's power in 1821, the population of the island was 28 thousand inhabitants (now about 3 thousand). During the Greek War of Independence, the island provided 150 ships for combat.
Moreover, it was this island that gave Greece outstanding military leaders - Admiral Andreas Miaoulis and Commander of the Greek Navy Georg Kanduriotis.

5. After the liberation of the country, the sea and trade centers began to gradually move, initially to Ermoupolis, the island of Syros, and then to Piraeus. With the introduction of steamships and steel shipbuilding in the fleet, Hydra fell into decay by the beginning of the 20th century.
At the same time, the island gave Greece several famous artists and inspired the work of world-famous artists such as Picasso, Pablo and Chagall, Mark Zakharovich. Since 1936, a branch of the Athens School of Fine Arts has been operating here.
Today, Hydra is an island for tourists, and in its small marina, even in the off-season, it is quite difficult to find a free place to moor a yacht.

6. The main port of the island is the city of the same name, Hydra.
This is far from being an ordinary port. Here you always clearly feel how this place is connected with the past, thanks to the rising amphitheater of cafes and mansions, creating the atmosphere of a spectacle, the main participant of which is the island itself.

7. The history and entire existence of the island is inextricably linked with Athens. Now it is a place of rest for representatives of the aristocracy and bohemians of the Greek capital, who are tired of the rhythms of life in the metropolis and strive to change their daily routine as much as possible, enjoy the virgin beauty of the island, stretch themselves on foot - and all this is an hour's journey from the port of Piraeus. Therefore, this kind of "island of the capital" attracts a lot of famous people from Greece and from all over the world, among the fans of the island are: Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Anthony Quinn, Joan Collins, Arius Onassis, Maria Calas, Jackie Kennedy-Onassi, fashion designer Valentino . For a long time, the owner of the enchanting timbre, Leonard Cohen, lived on the Hydra. The island enjoys great love among representatives of creative professions; during the semi-annual season, various creative exhibitions and meetings are constantly held on the island.

8. The tourist fame of the island was facilitated by the film "Boy on a Dolphin", filmed on the island in 1957 with Sophia Loren in the title role.
In 2006, a sculpture of the same name dedicated to the film was even installed here.

9. One important feature of Hydra is that it is the only island in Greece where the use of motor vehicles is completely prohibited - from a car to the smallest scooter. There aren't even bicycles here.

10. Only motor boats, mules and donkeys are used as transport and means of transportation around the island (I will talk about this in a separate post)

11. The architecture of the island is very organic and is thoroughly saturated with Mediterranean flavor and the spirit of history.

12. Narrow streets with a huge number of cafes and taverns sprawl from the harbor in different directions along the hills. Tables often stand right on the pavement, attracting tourists

13. Everything is mixed in the narrow streets - different eras, shops, cafes, people, live plants in tubs and pots.

14. You never know where a narrowing street will lead you.

15. Geometry of Hydra

16. Crossroads

17. Residential buildings

18. Dark lane...

19. .... at the end of which you suddenly find yourself on top of another hill with a beautiful view of the roofs of the city

20. Geometry again

21. Locals..

22... very good-natured and friendly

23. Trade is carried out right on the narrow streets. Cafe-shop-shop-vegetable rows-residential building..

24. Hardware store. You can immediately see which goods are most in demand on the island.
Try it, buy an anchor for a boat in Moscow or Kyiv)

25. Construction shop

26. And again vegetable rows

27. Vegetables are sold here the most. after souvenirs

28. And early in the morning, fishermen sell fresh catch directly from their boats.

29. The tiles of houses on Hydra are not at all similar to those used in our country.

30. Lemon. Female...

31. Cactus. male

32. Still life with shorts and a basket

33. Lanterns and pillows

34. Cafe right at the pier. Woke up on a yacht, took two steps, and now you are already drinking an incredibly delicious cappuccino

35. Cafe and town hall

36. If anything, everything is quite inexpensive here ....

37. Early in the morning on May 9, we left the yacht parking of the island of Hydra, heading for our last crossing - to the port of Piraeus ...

My previous photo essays and photo stories:

The island of Hydra (in ancient times - Hydra) is treated as a protected monument of national importance, where wheeled vehicles and modern architecture are prohibited, which puts the island among the most peaceful and refreshing corners of the country. The fashion for Hydra began in the 1950s, when the film “Boy on a Dolphin” was released, in which not only Sophia Loren participated (she was filmed on Hydra in 1957), but the Greek painter Nikos Hadzikyriakos-Gikas and Canadian singer Leonard Cohen.

Since then, the island has predictably become one of the most beloved holiday resorts in Greece, although there are very few good beaches on it. In the city itself, life is in full swing from Easter to October, although the crowds of passengers from liners arriving during cruises under the slogan “three islands in one day” are no longer so noticeable: now no more than one or two cruise ships come to Hydra daily. On weekends, however, the island is extremely crowded, and the embankment turns into one continuous cafe and a souvenir shop. However, it is not difficult to leave this holiday of life - the island is still not small: you can go on a long walk or a sea excursion.

The city and port of Hydra, with its tiers of imposing gray stone mansions and modest white-walled, red-tiled houses, climbing uphill over a perfectly horseshoe-shaped harbor, is a very impressive sight. Those mansions on the embankment were built mainly in the 18th century, when considerable wealth was accumulated here, and the merchant fleet numbered up to 160 ships that traveled with their goods to America itself, and - during the Napoleonic Wars - broke through the English blockade: despite all efforts did not remain without grain - thanks to the Greek businessmen from Hydra.

Then large fortunes were made, especially since relations with the Brilliant Porte were developing as well as possible: she ruled, but Idra did not even pay taxes to him, she only supplied sailors to the sultan's navy. Naturally, Greeks from the mainland poured onto the island, not spoiled by such liberties, and in the 1820s almost 20 thousand people lived in the city - an unimaginable figure: now there are not even three thousand, but such crowding. During the War of Independence, the merchants of Idra placed many of their ships at the disposal of the rebels, and the captains of these ships became the combat naval commanders of the new country.

Arrival and accommodation in the city of Hydra

The city is quite compact, but as soon as you leave the embankment, the streets and lanes become narrow and steep, forming a real labyrinth. The best map of the city is issued by Saitis Tours, next to Alpha Bank - this agency also sells tickets for Euroseas catamarans. Tickets for hydrofoils and regular ferries (they are not loaded by cars here) Hellenic Seaways are sold on the eastern embankment, opposite the pier from which they depart - up the stairs and to the right. Banks (with ATMs) are also on the embankment, and you will find mail in the covered market on the square a little away from the embankment.

You can get Internet access in a shop next to the harbor, just behind Alpha Bank, which is located on the waterfront. Since the requirement to protect the heritage of the past extends throughout the city, the construction of new housing for visitors is prohibited, private balconies are rare (although air conditioners are almost ubiquitous), and hotels are extremely few, and all of them in restored buildings - the prices are appropriate. Addresses (with street names and house numbers) on Hydra are not in use, signs and signs are also infrequent, so you will have to ask passers-by. Unless otherwise stated in the list, guests are welcome all year round, prices set during the high season are valid on weekends the rest of the year.

1). Pension Alkionides– Quiet yet centrally located guesthouse with a pleasant courtyard and helpful staff, all rooms have TVs, refrigerators and coffee makers. Location: 120 meters up the street in the harbor, on the next street parallel to the one where Alpha Bank is located (or walk to Amaryllis, go down again and turn right);

2). Amaryllis Hotel“A featureless building from the 1960s, whose builders mysteriously circumvented the ban on such architecture, but this small hotel is quite suitable for habitation, and there are even small balconies. Location: 100 meters from the sea, from the pier of hydrofoils, after a fork to the right;

3). Hotel Bratsera- Probably the best hotel on the island - 4 stars (class A), which has located in the former factory of sea sponges extensive facilities for all guests (including a bar, restaurant, conference room and a medium-sized swimming pool), at the same time serving as a sea sponge fishing museum (many photographs and various handicrafts). The rooms are in five categories, but even those in the bottom two have stone tiled floors and decent showers. Open from mid-March to October. Location: 150 meters from the hydrofoil dock, behind the Amaryllis hotel;

4). Pension Kirki– An uninviting driveway leads to a lovely old house with simple island-style rooms and a small courtyard garden. Location: 60 meters from the harbor, near the market;

5). Miranda Hotel– An 1810s mansion converted into a hotel, one of the most prosperous on the island with wooden floors and refrigerators. The numbers are not the same; the best - No. 2 and 3: painted ceilings with coffered ceilings and large terraces with sea views. Rich breakfasts are served in a shady courtyard - another advantage in winter is the bar on the ground floor. Location: 200 meters away from the sea along the main street starting from the middle of the promenade;

6). Institution Nikos Botsis– Clean, simple, white rooms in a four-story building, most of them have balconies and therefore street noise. The attic studios for four offer magnificent views. Location: about 100 meters away from the sea along the main street, departing from the middle of the embankment;

7). Orloff Hotel– Another hotel in a restored mansion: blue curtains and carpets, high ceilings, rooms are not the same. The building is built quite high, so you can see some of the sea, and excellent breakfasts are served in a fenced patio. Location: on the largest square away from the coast, near the pharmacy;

8). Pityoussa Hotel“Named after the three gigantic pine trees (“drinking”) that grow in front of the front, the hotel has only five rooms in the basement, with the latest indulgence, including DVD players and designer bathrooms. The quietest is number 5, overlooking the garden, although in the rest you will not suffer from noise either. If there are no places, contact the owned by the same owners, but more modest neighboring Theodoros - nearby, up the stairs. Location: on the main street going out of town to the southeast, ask at the Stavento store.

Attractions of the city of Hydra

Mansions (archondica) of the 18th century, built for merchant families by architects from Venice and Genoa, undoubtedly remain the best monuments of urban antiquity. Many have a sign at the entrance: “Ikiya ...” (that is, “The dwelling of such and such ...”) - and the name of the owners. The interior decoration of the Vulgaris mansion on the western embankment is interesting, behind it, on the hill, in the Tombazis mansion, art historians and students of art universities live on weekends.

At the western end of the town, above a restored watermill, the luxurious Koundouriotis Mansion (Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-17:00; €4) with paneled ceilings and a collection of paintings catches the eye: the rich shipowner Georg Kundouriotis, who participated in the War, lived in the house for independence, and his great-grandson Pavlos Koundouriotis was president in the 1920s, then (for a while) republican. On the eastern embankment, the mansions of the Kriesis, Spiliopulos and Tsamados are noticeable - the latter is now the state school of the merchant fleet, but you will be allowed there during a break between lectures.

On the same eastern embankment, there is the Historical and Archival Museum (Tuesday-Sunday 9:30-17:00; 4 €), which exhibits costumes and engravings from various eras, as well as bow figures of ships and personal weapons, cold and firearms, from the time of the War for independence. Hydra is said to have at least 365 churches - many Greek islands can boast of such figures, but Hydra's claims are quite justified. The most important church is Kimisis tis Teotoku, in the monastery courtyard near the port, next to the clock tower and the Church Museum (Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-17:00).

Food, drink and nightlife in Hydra

Cafes on the waterfront are convenient for looking at passers-by, but you have to pay for everything - if they charge 4 € for a cup of coffee, don't be surprised, but there are few full-fledged restaurants in the harbor. If you want to have a good meal (or drink), it is better to go away from the sea or behind the cape to the west. If you want to take something to the beach with you, there is an excellent bakery that has tyropittes and pies, turn to the west end of the harbor near the Pirate bar. In summer, there is an outdoor cinema in the narrow street leading to the Alkionides.

1). Bar Amalour– Quite a relaxed bar with a varied selection of music and a crowd of 30-40 guests, there are special events or theme nights. Location: 150 meters from the sea, in a straight line from the pier of hydrofoils;

2). Tavern Barba Dhimas– A small tavern with good prices and worthy mezedes, there are fish and even snails in a pot. Location: on the same street as the summer cinema, about 125 meters away from the sea;

3). Tavern Gitoniko(Manolis and Christina's) - A very friendly tavern with great majireftas at good prices for lunch - although it ends a little early - and grilled dishes (including juicy fish) in the evenings. You can sit on the spacious roof terrace or in the hall, depending on the season. Location: away from the sea, near the church of St. Konstandinos;

4). Bar Hydronetta– A classic sunset-watching bar with music playing in the early hours. There are few places, which creates an unusual relaxing environment. Location: follow the cannon to the western side of the cape;

5). Institution Iliovasilema(Sunset) - If you need to celebrate the end of your vacation or if you want a date to take place in a particularly romantic atmosphere, then you are here: the cuisine is quite European and expensive, with wine (in bottles), about 30 € per person. Location: behind the cannons, on the western cape;

6). Uzeri To Koutouki tis Agoras– The establishment looks second-rate, but prices are low only because this uzeri caters to market traders, but it can please: a range of delicacies from pasturmas (cured meat, basturma) to octopuses. The atmosphere is best at the very beginning of the evening. Location: behind the covered market;

7). Uzeri Paradhosiako- The dishes in this uzeri are ordinary, but the institution is crowded with people, so the service often leaves much to be desired. Location: 80 meters from the sea up the street leading from the hydrofoil pier;

8). Cafe-bar Pirate– Cafe during the day and a very lively bar in the evenings, a lot of young people, Western music. Location: on the corner of the embankment near the clock tower;

9). Annita's- Don't be put off by the odd look of the menu and the possible imposition of something: the food here - majirefta and grilled dishes - is excellent, and the prices are reasonable (otherwise so many locals would not go here). Draft rose wine is also good, and tables are arranged both in the hall and on the cobbled street. Location: 70 meters inland along the street leading to the Miranda Hotel;

10). Zefyros Tavern“One of several good options on this street with simple, typical tavern food, there are tables in the sheltered courtyard. Location: Only 30 meters from the harbour, on the street leading to the Mirande Hotel.

Beaches around Hydra

There is only one paved road on the island that leads east from the harbor to Mandraki Beach, a few kilometers away. It is hot and there is no shade on the way, so most people prefer to get there by sea, boats are constantly leaving to different beaches and back, the price is from 1.50 € per person one way to Mandraki to 12 € per person round trip to Bisti. You can take a private water taxi - a good price for a group around 12€ for a boat to Vlychos, for example - or you can even hire mules for the overland journey.

The only sandy beach near the city is in Mandraki, 1.5 kilometers east of the harbor along a concrete road. The Miramare Hotel rises above the shore, with bungalows in the garden. The hotel's bar-restaurant occupies an imposing shipyard once owned by the hero of the Revolutionary War, Admiral Miaulis. On weekdays (Monday-Thursday), the price of the best rooms is reduced to categories, and in addition, there are conditions for water sports - everyone is allowed, shuttle boats often scurry between the beach and the city. A few steps to the west, near a cove with pebbly shores dotted with vacationers, there is one of the best rural taverns on the island, Mandraki 1800, also called Tou Lazarou (Easter-October): the cuisine is like in Uzeri, but the prices are slightly higher.

A paved path that goes around the western head of the harbor then goes along the coast to Kamini - about 20 minutes on foot. The village has a beach, several good taverns and rooms. At the very entrance to Kamini, on the right hand side, there is a small boarding house Antonia, and across the road there is another boarding house, the owner of which, Eleni Petrolekka, also offers apartments. And the view of the Taverna tis Kondylenias tavern, famous for its seafood, will tell you that you have reached the Kamini fishing pier: trapsalo (huge squid) from the grill is something outstanding, and it is very pleasant to admire the sunsets here.

From the pier, 50 meters up the dry and paved river bed, there is another, not so expensive tavern - Christina's, the food is a little more modest, the short menu changes every day, but there is always some kind of fish - but there is also a view of the sea. After half an hour of walking from Kamini, you, having passed the cove chosen by bathers near Castello, will arrive in Vlychos, a village with a reconstructed 19th-century bridge and a pebble beach: it is pleasant to swim here under the protection of a coastal island. A tavern and a couple of cafe-bars are open during the high season - but they probably have much better drinks than kitchens, and only Antigone rents out rooms.

After Vlychos, the walk becomes more difficult, the road rises above the bay of Molos, and the seductive beach is visible, but it is difficult to get to. Then the road turns inland. At the eastern end there are beautiful coves, Bisti and Agios Nikolaos, which are best reached by sea. At Bisti, the white pebble beach is surrounded by pine trees that provide shade; Agios Nikolaos is larger and more sandy, but there is less shade and fewer boats. The road passes over the headland between these bays, and they have bars open in season that serve snacks, as well as rent beach equipment and kayaks.

What else is on the island of Hydra

No motorized vehicles are allowed on Hydra, with the exception of a few trucks carrying provisions and garbage, and road vehicles, so there is only one highway (from the port to), but the island is mountainous, so it remains to get to the hinterland on foot or on some some ungulate - on horseback or in a cart. Accordingly, few visitors risk leaving the city limits, although a short walk is enough to see a completely different island: rural dwellings, terraced fields with eared bread (grain is fed to donkeys), monasteries in the mountains and pine forests that have fully recovered from the devastating forest fires in 1985.

Moving along the streets uphill inland, you will find a winding path that in about an hour will lead you up to the monastery of Profitis Ilias or (a little lower) to the only functioning and open rural monastery on Hydra - St. Eupraxia. Probably the longest staircase in Greece leads to the first monastery (an alternative to it is a zigzag path), the monastery is closed from 12:00 to 16:00, but you can recuperate after a long climb by getting water and Turkish delight (sweets) - their hospitably left to the left of the gates of the monastery.

The trail continues, leaving behind the monastery to the left, to the saddle, from which the southern coast is visible and from where you can directly (there is no road) climb to the top of Mount Eros in about twenty minutes - this is the highest (590 meters) observation point on all the islands of Saronikos and Argolikos. If you do not dare to leave the path once laid out by the “calderimis”, then go down to the backyards of the island with scattered houses and locked churches near the sea near Klimaki, and then move uphill again, as the path, passing the chapel of Agios Petros and several pleasant to the eye sections of the coast, butted into a bulldozer track, which will lead you (in 1 hour 15 minutes from Profitis Ilias) to the monastery of Agios Nikolaos.

True, more often people get to this monastery directly from the city along a well-marked (colorful stripes of paint) and very noticeable path connecting the cloisters (both closed) of St. Matrona) and the Holy Trinity with the saddle on which Agios Nikolaos stands, and next to it - also a settlement of the same name. Further, the trail descends to Limnioniz Bay (1 hour 15 minutes from the city) - the best and most picturesque bay on the south coast, with a pebble beach and pine trees on the mountain slopes above the sea, however, there are no amenities, and "water buses" do not get here. The most persistent walkers will continue east from Agios Nikolaos to the Church of Panagia Zurvas, at the eastern end of the island (2 hours one way from town).

Southeast of Vlychos, a wide dirt road for donkeys and carts, passing the ship repair dock, rises to the Episkopi plateau, where olives and grapes are cultivated and houses can be seen in some places (there are no amenities for tourists), and then passes over the Gulf of Molos. The paths descending from the Episkopi plateau to the northwestern tip of the island are densely overgrown and it is hardly worth trying to go along them without a local guide. The idyllic bays of Bisti (Agios Eorios) and Agios Nikolaos on both sides of the cape are usually reached by sea.

In contact with

Hydra is an incredibly colorful city on the island of the same name. Visiting it, one involuntarily transports oneself to the serene past of pastoral Greece with its small snow-white houses, mountains, forest of swaying masts. Amazingly, Idra manages to live with a lot of contradictions. Athenians love to come here, but the streets are never crowded. The city has always been considered a vacation spot for the rich and famous, but the prices are quite moderate nonetheless. This means that Hydra is open to everyone. Mulams and donkeys - the main means of transportation and cargo transportation on the island - no matter what the rider's salary is.

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How to get to Hydra

The easiest way to get to Hydra is via Athens. Upon arrival at the airport, you need to take the metro and get to the Piraeus station. Ferries and hydrofoils depart regularly from the capital's main port to Hydra. Travel time (75 km): 1 hour.

Transport

An important feature of the city is a complete ban on the operation of any vehicles - from cars to bicycles and scooters. However, when you start moving along the narrow streets, you understand that even without this law, cars are simply not needed here. Communication between the settlements of the island is provided by water taxis, and in the city - donkeys.

Search for flights to Athens (nearest airport to Hydra)

Hydra Hotels

There are no large hotels in Hydra, tourists are accommodated in family hotels and apartments. All housing options are located in old buildings (construction of new ones is prohibited). A night in a guest house will cost 50-60 EUR, in a standard double room of a four-star hotel - 120-140 EUR. You can rent an apartment for 70 EUR per day. There are no hostels in the city. Prices on the page are for October 2018.

Cafes and restaurants

Hydra has a huge selection of establishments for every budget and for every occasion. Do you want to sit a few meters from the pier and look at the swaying masts of yachts? Please, just keep in mind that everything is very expensive in the harbor area, and 3 EUR for a cup of cappuccino is normal. A romantic evening with a dish of fresh squid or fish with a fennel garnish and a bottle of wine will cost 60-80 EUR for two. More affordable prices and democratic atmosphere in taverns. Delicious "moussaka", "keftedakia" (meatballs) with a side dish of potatoes - all this goes well with a bottle of cold beer and costs between 20-25 EUR per person. The most popular local fast food is the same as on the mainland: gyros generously flavored with tzatziki sauce.

Attractions Hydra

There are no iconic places in the city. The whole of Hydra is one big attraction. No ancient monuments have been preserved here, since the region was sparsely populated in Hellenic times. There are no beaches either, the entire embankment is covered with concrete slabs. The most “postcard” symbol of the city is considered to be the building next to the marina, the so-called “archondica”. The picturesque mansions were built several centuries ago according to the designs of Genoese and Venetian architects for wealthy islanders-ship owners. On many of them, next to the entrance, signs are still hanging: “Ikiya ...” (that is, “Dwelling ...”) - and the name of the owners. Immediately on the waterfront is the monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin with the Cathedral of Hydra and the clock tower. It is worth noting that there are a lot of small churches in the city. Then begins a typical Greek island building with ancient streets, narrow lanes, paved paths leading to dead ends. And a lot of stairs.

If a walk in the summer sun is tired, it will cool down a little, and at the same time you can learn about the history of the city in one of the few museums. On the eastern embankment there is the Historical and Archival Museum, which presents archaeological finds, fine art from various eras, clothes, latrine figures that adorned the prow of the ship, cold and firearms from the time of the Greek War of Independence (early 19th century). Entrance: 4 EUR, of. website (in English).

In the western part of the town, a luxurious mansion rises above the restored watermill. This is another museum, the House of Koundouriotis (opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday: 10:00-17:00; entrance: 4 EUR) with coffered ceilings and a rich collection of Greek paintings. The Koundouriotis family is very famous in Greece - the wealthy ship owner Georgios participated in the War of Independence. His great-grandson Pavlos commanded the Greek fleet in the victorious naval battles at Elli and Lemnos, and in the 1920s. was elected president of the country. Here, in front of the mansion, over a steep cliff among the pines is his grave.

Weather

From spring to mid-autumn, Hydra is always hot and sunny. In winter, strong winds rule here. Of course, most tourists come here in the summer, but visiting Hydra in the off-season is a great success: you can see how the city lives its mysterious non-tourist life.

Hydra was the last island of our 10 day sailing trip in the Aegean. And I must say that we have not in vain left the most delicious for the end. Hydra - an incredibly colorful island, not at all like the others we visited on this trip, soulful and completely devoid of cars ... Nobody is in a hurry here, there is always a forest of yacht masts in a small cozy marina, here is one of the most delicious cappuccino in the world. The famous movie was filmed here. boy on a dolphin"with Sophia Loren in the title role and many celebrities like to visit here ...

Hydra Island is located just off the east coast of the Peloponnese peninsula and is part of the Saronic Islands group. The relative proximity to the large port of Piraeus made this island one of the favorite vacation spots for the inhabitants of Athens. At the peak of the season, the resident population, which is approximately 3,000 people, is simply lost among the numerous tourists.

In ancient times, Hydra was a sparsely populated island, Herodotus mentions it only in passing, and the first major settlement dates only to the Mycenaean era. But everything changed in the 16th century. At this time, Hydra became a refuge for those who tried to hide from the constant clashes between the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire. They were mostly refugees from the territory of modern Albania. In the middle of the XVIII century, the inhabitants of the island began to build ships and engaged in maritime trade. At the same time, do not disdain piracy. They sailed to Egypt and the Black Sea, and during the Napoleonic Wars they transported goods to England, despite the prohibition stipulated by the law on the Continental Blockade.

Since the island paid taxes on time, the Ottoman Empire practically did not pay attention to it, and by XIX Idra had gained power and strength. The vast majority of the majestic mansions on the island were built with the money of local merchants. At the zenith of Hydra's power in 1821, the population of the island was 28 thousand inhabitants (now about 3 thousand). During the Greek War of Independence, the island provided 150 ships for combat. Moreover, it was this island that gave Greece outstanding military leaders - Admiral Andreas Miaoulis and Commander of the Greek Navy Georg Kanduriotis.

After the liberation of the country, sea and trade centers began to gradually move, initially to Ermoupolis, the island of Syros, and then to Piraeus. With the introduction of steamships and steel shipbuilding in the fleet, Hydra fell into decay by the beginning of the 20th century. At the same time, the island gave Greece several famous artists and inspired the work of world-famous artists such as Picasso, Pablo and Chagall, Mark Zakharovich. Since 1936, a branch of the Athens School of Fine Arts has been operating here. Today, Hydra is an island for tourists, and in its small marina, even in the off-season, it is quite difficult to find a free place to moor a yacht.

The main port of the island is the city of the same name, Hydra. This is far from being an ordinary port. Here you always clearly feel how this place is connected with the past, thanks to the rising amphitheater of cafes and mansions, creating the atmosphere of a spectacle, the main participant of which is the island itself.

The history and the whole existence of the island is inextricably linked with Athens. Now this is a resting place for representatives of the aristocracy and bohemia of the Greek capital, who are tired of the rhythms of life in the metropolis and strive to change their daily routine as much as possible, enjoy the virgin beauty of the island, stretch themselves on foot - and all this is an hour's journey from the port of Piraeus. Therefore, this kind of "island of the capital" attracts a lot of famous people from Greece and from all over the world, among the fans of the island are: Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Anthony Quinn, Joan Collins, Arius Onassis, Maria Calas, Jackie Kennedy-Onassi, fashion designer Valentino . For a long time, the owner of the enchanting timbre, Leonard Cohen, lived on the Hydra. The island enjoys great love among representatives of creative professions; during the semi-annual season, various creative exhibitions and meetings are constantly held on the island.

The tourist fame of the island was facilitated by the film "Boy on a Dolphin", filmed on the island in 1957 with Sophia Loren in the title role. In 2006, a sculpture of the same name dedicated to the film was even installed here.

One important feature of Hydra is that it is the only island in Greece on which the use of motor vehicles is completely prohibited - from a car to the smallest scooter. There aren't even bicycles here.

As transport and means of transportation around the island, exclusively motor boats, mules and donkeys (I will talk about this in a separate post)

As transport and means of transportation around the island, exclusively motor boats, mules and donkeys (I will talk about this in a separate post)

The architecture of the island is very organic and is thoroughly saturated with Mediterranean flavor and the spirit of history.

The architecture of the island is very organic and is thoroughly saturated with Mediterranean flavor and the spirit of history.

Narrow streets with a huge number of cafes and taverns sprawl from the harbor in different directions along the hills. Tables often stand right on the pavement, attracting tourists

Narrow streets with a huge number of cafes and taverns sprawl from the harbor in different directions along the hills. Tables often stand right on the pavement, attracting tourists

Everything is mixed in the narrow streets - different eras, shops, cafes, people, live plants in tubs and pots.

Everything is mixed in the narrow streets - different eras, shops, cafes, people, live plants in tubs and pots.

You never know where a narrowing street will lead.

You never know where a narrowing street will lead.

Geometry of Hydra

Geometry of Hydra

crossroads

crossroads

Residential buildings

Residential buildings

Dark alley...

Dark alley...

At the end of which you suddenly find yourself on top of another hill with a beautiful view of the rooftops of the city

.... at the end of which you suddenly find yourself on top of another hill with a beautiful view of the rooftops of the city

And geometry again

And geometry again

Locals..

Locals..

Very kind and welcoming

... very good-natured and friendly

Trade is carried out right on the narrow streets. Cafe-shop-shop-vegetable rows-residential building..

Trade is carried out right on the narrow streets. Cafe-shop-shop-vegetable rows-residential building..

To be honest, we didn’t even hear about the island of Hydra in Greece (aka Hydra) before we began to draw up the route of our trip. There is little information about it on the Internet, there are no sights as such. Why did we decide to go there, and for our five-year wedding anniversary?

What attracted us to the island of Hydra in Greece?

I love places with traditions. It is interesting to visit places where the way of life is not like what you are used to (only we are not talking about Afghanistan, not about African primitive tribes, and not about expeditions to the North Pole). Let these traditions manifest themselves in one thing, that is enough. What is so unusual about the island of Hydra in Greece, what is its traditional character? We noted three things.

1. The island is very, very! - many cats

More than once we have seen reviews from other travelers in Greece that the island of Hydra is the most feline island in the country. “The level of catness here just rolls over!” someone wrote in their LiveJournal report. We agree one hundred percent: it seems that you didn’t end up on an island, but in a cat cafe. Cats of all colors meet you right on the pier and wait in every alley. And everyone is so well-groomed, healthy, affectionate - it is clear that the locals and guests of Idra treat the cats well, they do not offend.

Hydra has the most red cats, so the gray ones turn their faces away from the camera with annoyance.

2. There is no motorized transport on Hydra Island

Not 100%, of course - there is a garbage truck on the island, and we even happened to see it. Regarding bicycles, the information varies: somewhere they write that they are, somewhere - that they are not. We walked around the island all day and did not see bicycles - neither saddled nor parked. In general, this ban on the island of Hydra was not introduced in order to look interesting in the eyes of tourists: traffic on Hydra is prohibited by law (it seems like a large nature reserve in which everything needs to be kept as it is). But we still don’t understand how the ambulance works on Hydra 🙁

Hold on tight, girls, now it will carry!

3. Despite the abundance of tourists, the appearance of Hydra does not change over the years

In 1957, the film "Boy on a Dolphin" with Sophia Loren was released. They filmed a movie on Hydra, and after that a string of various travelers reached here. It has been dragging on for all these decades, and so successfully that real estate prices on Hydra have become exorbitantly high: now only very wealthy people can buy housing here. They write on the Internet that some world and Greek celebrities have bought houses on the island of Hydra in Greece, but which ones are not specified. 🙂

The island of Hydra in Greece cannot boast of huge villas and mansions; such a house is already considered large.

Since traditionally the facades of all houses on the island should be made in white and with a minimum of decoration, the owners transfer all the beauty of the design to the front doors and the fence.

So, despite the fact that the island of Hydra in Greece is especially loved among tourists, you really won’t feel it at all. Only on the embankment, where after the arrival of the boats a crowd with cameras appears, and everyone starts taking pictures of the parked donkeys (and more often on camera than for a walk). But then once - and all these people disappeared somewhere, and you yourself have already dived into the first street that came across, and that's it - buzz, noise and din. And inside the island, nothing at all will remind you of tourism: there are not very many cafes, there are no tour agencies, there are no catchy signs of Hotel and Bar, there is no music rumbling and in general - in general! - there are no touts.

This is how the street of that Greek island, where tourists are known only on TV, could look discreet.