What is interesting in Belgrade. Belgrade in two days: what to see and do
I will break the chronology of events a bit and tell you about Serbia.
Today's article is dedicated to the capital of Serbia - the wonderful city of Belgrade!
Despite the fact that in the first half hour in Belgrade a car was stolen from us, an inhuman fine was removed, after which I stepped on a poop with a running start and almost lost my home, for which I paid more than $ 100 in advance, I liked Belgrade as a whole, although left very mixed feelings.
Perhaps I was looking forward to this trip too much, and expectations about Serbia were too high. For some reason, I expected to see a second Georgia or Armenia, but either the weather had an effect, or something else, but Belgrade went absolutely smoothly. Undoubtedly, there are nice buildings in the city, there is history, but there is no attention to detail.
In general, I liked Belgrade. I will describe only my personal very superficial impressions. Please don't take my words literally. So:
8 facts about Belgrade
1. Serbs
Very tall people live in Belgrade, mostly under 30 years old, who constantly eat rolls and do not gain weight. Girls and especially guys are on average taller than me. This is unusual.
2. Splashes
One of the favorite dishes of the Serbs is splash. It is better to eat it at night, washed down with Coca-Cola. Pleskavica is a national dish popular in the Balkans. It is a flat cutlet of different types of meat, grilled and wrapped in a bun with salad. It costs about 230 dinars (2 euros)
3. Coffee
In the center of Belgrade, an unimaginable number of cafes serving unreal delicious coffee. Usually I don’t like coffee with milk, but what the Serbs do is something!
4. Kalemegdan Fortress
In the evening, the youth of Belgrade gather at the Kalemegdan fortress, hanging their legs from the fortress wall. They chat, look at the Sava and the Danube, some drink beer.
Evening at the Kalemegdan Fortress in Belgrade 5. Contrasts of Belgrade
On some central streets, Belgrade looks quite European, but basically the city is very simple, without much gloss. Many buildings have not been plastered for a long time, some buildings remained in the same condition as they turned into during the war.
Night Belgrade 6. Past
The military past of Belgrade is visible to the naked eye. Half-burnt buildings in the center of the Serbian capital remind of him, as well as some slightly perceptible sadness on the faces of the older generation of Serbs.
7. Parking lots
Parking in Belgrade is hell. Finding a place in the center is very difficult. An incorrectly parked car is immediately taken away by a tow truck. So, we parked our car near the house, went to the store, soon returned and found that the car was gone.
A poll of waiters from a restaurant opposite showed that the car was most likely taken to a fine parking lot 3 km from the place where it was left. I had to run to save the vehicle.
Soldered a fine of 125 euros, saying that this is not the limit. Moreover, the kind policeman gave a discount of 25 euros, because the original fine was 150 euros.
Penitentiary in Belgrade, where they took our car 8. Smiling Icon
And finally, my personal discovery, made in the Belgrade Church of St. Mark. I have long been interested in the fact that the icons of the saints are depicted sad and suffering. There was some inconsistency.
And after a long study of the faces of saints in different countries, I came across an image of a man smiling at me from the icon. Agree, she does not look sad, but spiritually. I don't know who this woman was, but she is beautiful.
Excursions in Belgrade
If you do not have much time to explore the sights of Belgrade on your own, you can book a non-standard individual city tour or a trip from Belgrade to other cities in Serbia. Examples of excursions in Belgrade:
What to see in Belgrade in one day and what to do:
1. Visit the old Kalemendan fortress, go around its perimeter along the fortress walls, look from above at the fascinating views of the Danube. Near the fortress there is a zoo, you can look there.
Military Museum in Belgrade Fortress 
Dinopark in Belgrade Fortress 
View of the confluence of the rivers from the walls of the Kalemegdan fortress 
2. Walk along the embankments of the Sava and Danube rivers
3. Walk along Knez Mihailov Street (Knez Mihajlova) - a pedestrian street in the center of Belgrade.
4. Look into the Church of St. Mark.
5. In the evening, head to the Skadarlija area, where the main clubs of Belgrade are located.
6. Streets of Belgrade. Walk not through the tourist, but through the usual areas of the city to understand its atmosphere and see not only a clean licked tourist center, but also simple yards without gloss.
Streets of Belgrade 
7. Order coffee in one of the cafes in the center of Belgrade. I took Mochachino with cream and chocolate. This is not coffee, but divine nectar
Cafe in the center of Belgrade 8. Food. Food is the best thing in Serbia. Rolls, olives, vegetables, fruit, Shopska salad, meat, even simple bread from the bakery on the corner - this is truly a miracle! In general, even if the weather is not happy, as it was in our case, in Belgrade you can just eat all day long. Believe me, it's worth it!
Bakers in Belgrade at every step Sights of Belgrade left behind the scenes
Because of the rain, we left Belgrade too quickly, without visiting the places where I originally planned to go:
1. The destroyed building of the Ministry of Defense and the General Staff in the center of Belgrade - the memory of 1999. Address: corner of Knyaz Milos and Nemanjina streets. Several times I saw buildings from the car window, but I didn’t manage to take a picture. The sight is creepy.
2. St. Sava Cathedral - the second largest Orthodox church in Europe.
3. Zemun - used to be a separate Austro-Hungarian city, and now it is part of Belgrade. It is famous for the Hungarian Gardos tower, narrow streets and an observation deck overlooking the Danube.
4. Palaces of Belgrade.
Apartments for a day in Belgrade
With over 1,000 hotels, guest houses and hostels in Belgrade, you can choose any accommodation to suit your taste.
Flights to Belgrade:
We went to Belgrade by car from St. Petersburg, but getting to Belgrade is easier and cheaper by plane. Check prices and find cheap flights to Belgrade with my favorite search engine that finds the best ticket prices.
I will wrap up on this. Have you been to Belgrade? What impression did the city make on you?
READ what else to see in Serbia =>>>
TOP-13 things to see in Belgrade in 2 days: photos, reviews, hotels
In writing great guides, we are often helped by locals, experts on places and cultural features. Vasily Yakovenko has been living in Belgrade for two years now, doing business and running a guide project about the Serbian capital "BEOGRAANIN".
Visa and currency
A visa is not required unless you plan to stay longer than 30 days. The currency is the Serbian dinar, 1 ruble is about 1.7 dinars, so it's easier to count in hundreds: 100 rubles is about 170 dinars. For 1 euro you will be given 120-124 dinars, there are a lot of exchangers in the city center.
Vasily Yakovenko: “You can come to Serbia just with a card. For example, for withdrawing cash from Sberbank ATMs (and they are in many countries of the Balkan region, including Serbia), no commission is charged from his own card. Yes, and the course is profitable.
Airport transport
Taxi. With a taxi, everything is as always: they will deceive you with pleasure. To avoid this, Belgrade Airport has issued special pricing guidelines. For 1,400 dinars you will get to Zemun or New Belgrade, and for 1,800 - to the old part of Belgrade. Be sure to consult at the Taxi Info desk. Other prices can be viewed.
How to spend a day in Belgrade
Belgrade is the city of the evening. Therefore, if you are a fan of flying out of the hotel at nine in the morning and absorbing one museum after another, then you will have a hard time, because all the fun begins after sunset. And you are already tired. So it's better to relax and drink coffee, they don't like hurried people here.
Kalemegdan
The main attraction of Belgrade and a favorite vacation spot for Belgrade residents is the Kalemegdan park complex. The complex includes the Belgrade Fortress (The Belgrade Fortress), destroyed and restored 44 times during its existence, the zoo and, in fact, the park itself.
Here it is worth visiting the Museum of military equipment under the open sky, look into the churches of Ruzica and St. Petka, if you have time - go to a small but cozy zoo and look at the oldest alligator living in captivity in the world. Kalemegdan offers an excellent view of the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. Be sure to come here in the evening to spend the sunset. Despite the crowds of people, it is not difficult to find a secluded place; drinking drinks is not prohibited.
Street Knez Mihailova
The most touristic street in Belgrade, the Belgrade Arbat, starts from Terazije Square and ends at Kalemegdan. Tourist-oriented shops, restaurants and hotels of the city are concentrated here. Nevertheless, the street deserves attention, be sure to take a walk along it, look into the passage of Nikola Pasic.
Museums
Vasily Yakovenko: “It is worth paying attention to the Museum of Science and Technology, especially if you are traveling with children. The exposition is interactive - it will not be boring. Tip: if you are a couple or a family, ask for a pedigree card (family ticket) - save (300 dinars for all versus 200 for each). Of other museums, the ethnographic and the Automobile Museum, which grew out of a private collection, may be of interest.
Zemun
We recommend crossing the bridge over the Sava and taking a walk along the Danube embankment, drinking beer or wine in the ArkaBarka pontoon hostel, walking to Zemun, a once independent town that later became a growing area of Belgrade. Here you should definitely climb the Gardos Hill - it offers a beautiful view of the entire old Zemun with bright orange tiled roofs of houses and New Belgrade in the distance.
Ada Ciganlia
If you are caught in the heat, and the heat in Belgrade is very difficult to endure, then go to Ada Ciganlija (Ada Ciganlija) - buses number 52, 53 or 56 from the Zeleni Venac stop, and from Republic Square - by bus number 37. On Ada you can rent a catamaran and swim directly from it in an artificial lake, one of the largest in Europe. There is even a nudist beach, if you are a fan!
Vasily Yakovenko: “The island has everything for a good rest: a beach with showers and changing cabins, a barbecue area, sports grounds, wooden tables and picnic benches - all for free. And of course, a lot of establishments with pleasant prices. Ada Ciganlija has been awarded the "Blue Flag" - an international quality mark for water bodies and beach areas.
What else to see
During the day, you can see the building of the Serbian Parliament of the Assembly, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, the Church of St. Sava, a monument to Ivo Andric. The latter is recommended for those who travel further towards Bosnia, to the famous bridge on the Drina River in the city of Visegrad. The bridge is the protagonist of Andrić's most famous work "The Bridge over the Drina". It is also worth passing by the buildings of the Ministry of Defense bombed by NATO in 1999.
Vasily Yakovenko: “These buildings have now been actively taken up: demolished and reconstructed. So in the near future, there will be fewer reminders of those events.”
Temple of Saint Sava
Former Ministry of the Interior
Vasily Yakovenko: “I recommend that during the day you take a walk along the embankment from the pink alleys of Dorcol through the monumental Yugoslav building “Danube Flower” (now there is a fitness center) to its new part Sava Promenada. If you are in Belgrade for more than two days, you can go to Mount Avala on the outskirts of Belgrade. It’s worth going up to the observation deck of the TV tower or just having a picnic.”
shopping
In Belgrade, you should not count on him. You will not find any rare brands here, except that the prices are slightly lower than Russian counterparts. If you still can’t do without it, then head to Ušće - a shopping center right behind the Brankov Bridge. It is the largest in Belgrade. Fans of exclusive and designer items are advised to pay a visit to the Čumićevo sokače quarter, also known as the Belgrade Design District.
Vasily Yakovenko: “Modeled after similar neighborhoods in the fashion capitals of the world, the Belgrade Design District brings together around 30 shops and workshops for young Serbian brands that love to create a unique product with a personal touch. Here you can get designer clothes and shoes, jewelry, interior items and cosmetics. The hospitable atmosphere of the place creates comfort and adds pleasure to shopping. Most designers act as a salesperson and are always happy to talk to you.”
Where to go in Belgrade in the evening
Hotspot on Cetinskaya
Take a walk along Skadarskaya Street, feel the Balkan flavor, but don’t go anywhere: this street is only for tourists - your bill can include not only a mountain of bread that you didn’t order, but also washing the monument to Mikhail Obrenovych. Therefore, turn off the street to Cetinjska and look for house 15 (Cetinjska 15). Here you will also find the answer why some people call Belgrade the new Berlin.
The BIP brewery complex was a thorn in the side of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija for a long time, until bars, restaurants and discos began to open one after another. Now this is the most relevant place in Belgrade-2017: there are already several dozen bars. In one you can play pinball alone, in another you will push for five minutes to the counter and even longer back, in the third there is a live concert, in the fourth craft beer is pouring, etc.
Vasily Yakovenko: “The main fun, of course, is in the space between the bars on the street. In general, on the streets of Belgrade you can often stumble upon some kind of party and easily become part of it: the atmosphere is always friendly! For some time now, establishments have been ordered to turn off the music at exactly 23:00, so as not to disturb the neighbors' sleep. However, the movement continues even without music.
Vasily Yakovenko: "The center of the party on Cetinskaya and the most hipster institution in the city - a bar Zaokret. It is packed to capacity for almost a full week, on weekends, for lack of free places, a good half of the youth is forced to shift at the entrance. During the day, tables are occupied by freelancers, in the evenings - chamber concerts, but more often - parties with DJs. What else is good about Zaokret: there is a large selection of beer, including local craft, at very affordable prices.”
Savamala
This quarter on the Sava embankment was popular before Cetinjska, but now it is becoming a victim of gentrification - the once factory district with favorite bars, old two-three-story buildings is being actively rebuilt: food trucks, bike paths, wine on the embankment and expensive real estate - this is what Savamalu expects in the foreseeable future. the future.
In the meantime, go to the bar Deli 57(during the day - a small institution with bagels, in the evening - a bar for everyone living in the neighborhood) or in Prohibition(great cocktails). Many bars in the area had to close, and they moved just to Cetinska Street (read above).
Vasily Yakovenko: “After the closure of the creative hub Mikser House (it moves to Sarajevo and should open in September 2017, Belgrade promises to return in 2018), around which everything revolved in Savamala, KC Grad is responsible for alternative culture in this quarter. Exhibitions, lectures, concerts and other events are held here.
Alloys
You are in Belgrade for the first time, and trendy places with a crowd of young people do not suit you. Then you need to go to Splav - the Sava or Danube embankment with a lot of clubs and bars on pontoons. Everywhere order rakia and report that you are from Russia. The musical accompaniment of such an evening is Serbian turbofolk, an explosive mixture of pop music and Turkish tunes. A fun evening is guaranteed.
Vasily Yakovenko: “In fact, not all alloys are kafans on the water. There are also modern, with a pleasant design, good music and atmosphere in general. For example, Pristan: sitting with a cocktail in a lounger, you feel like on the sea coast, plus the views of the sunset from here are simply incredible.
Cinema on the roof
Vasily Yakovenko:
“During Yugoslav times, Zvezda was the main cinema in the city. In the 1990s, there was no time for cinema, and it was abandoned. The building was empty for more than 20 years until a group of enthusiasts took over it. Now various cult films are shown here virtually illegally. The cinema hall is located on the roof under the open sky. You can bring your own drinks and snacks. Entrance - 100 dinars, sometimes free. You can check the current schedule of sessions.
Address: Terazije 40
craft beer
The Balkans has a vibrant and dynamic scene, with the Serbian brewery Kabinet as its main representative. It was founded in 2014 by a married couple and is now the brewing locomotive of the entire region.
majstor za pivo
For the cheapest and freshest Kabinet beer, look for Majstor za pivo - Kabinet residences, where you can also meet Bronimir and Kosara - the founders of our favorite Balkan brewery (favorites are Vertigo and Pop My Visnya). A very large selection, current varieties on taps. Also find beer here. Uteha- it shows the face of one of the creators of the Perito Burrito project!
Address: Zorza Klemansoa 18
Samo Pivo
Samo Pivo is a huge beer hall in the city center with a quality beer list. Cards are not accepted, you can only pay in dinars. Plenty of space and a large selection of Balkan varieties, as well as European and American ones. By evening, the smoke is yoke and it is difficult to find a place. Despite all this, the bar is at least not bad.
Address: Balkanska 13
Passengers Bar
Here you can always not only eat delicious food, but also drink fresh Kaš beer - the second most famous Serbian craft brewery.
Address: Simina 5
Secret bars and apartment bars
In Belgrade, the culture of secret bars right in the apartments is very popular. All you need to know is which door to open or which numbers to dial on the intercom. In such bars, most often you will find inexpensive alcohol, pleasant music and the absence of a large number of tourists - these bars are for local youth and sympathizers.
Chillton
Bar on the top floor in a semi-abandoned house in the bohemian Vracar district. There is always pleasant music, cheap alcohol, only Serbian youth. Chillton used to be a hostel - the walls still have TripAdvisor and Hostelworld stickers on them.
Address: Katanićeva 7
Club Svetskih Putnika
This bar is perhaps the easiest to get into - a small sign of the "Federal Association of Yugoslav Travelers" hangs on the gate of the house - originally it was a place where they gathered and exchanged experiences. In fact, this is a beautiful bar, which even has a courtyard. All decorations are gifts from travelers from distant lands. The place is very pleasant for quiet gatherings and communication.
Address: Bulevar despota Stefana 7; tip from TripAdvisor: “You need to go into the entrance, get into the corridor hidden behind a massive iron door, go through impossible nooks and crannies and go down the stairs.”
Ljutic
Vasily Yakovenko:
“One of the most interesting places in the city. An old mansion with a rich family history has been turned into a cozy cafe by the heiress. In winter, there is a disco bar in its basement, which can be reached through the “rabbit hole”, sliding down a spiral slide. In summer, the patio is open with swings, a tree house and an inflatable pool. Everything is very nice."
Address: Stevana Sremca 5
Bivsi Bar UPD: Closed for 2018
Vasily Yakovenko:
“The bar has no sign and is located in a one-room apartment. Very closely. To catch a free place, you need to come early. We fell in love with the place for its atmosphere, reminiscent of modern East Berlin. Minimal techno plays here and hipsters hang out, and the bar itself is a kind of chill-out branch of the main Balkan rave club Drugstore.
Address: The “former” bar can be found on Kosovska street at no. 32, the sign “Lawyer” as a guide.”
Strogi Centar
Vasily Yakovenko:
“In the historical center of Belgrade, at the intersection of Gospodar Jevremova and Kneginje Ljubice streets, there is a seemingly abandoned old house. And you will never guess that a bar-club with a super positive atmosphere is hidden inside. During the day it works in light mode, from nine in the evening noisy parties and concerts begin, one way or another connected with jazz, funk and disco. The painted walls of the rooms also speak of the musical orientation. I tried to get more information from the owners about their bar, but they told me: “All you need to know: funk is our style.”
The list of Belgrade flat bars can be continued for a long time, we talked about the most interesting ones for our taste, the rest can be found. Vasily constantly monitors new places and adds to the list.
Night clubs
Belgrade is the club capital of the Balkans and one of the clubs in Eastern Europe. European students come to Belgrade en masse for the weekend to have a cheap and cheerful break. There are a lot of nightclubs, but not all of them deserve attention. Let's take a look at a couple of the best.
drug store
Vasily Yakovenko:
“A huge techno club in the industrial area of the city. It is located under the roof of a former industrial building: either a factory or a warehouse. The atmosphere of the cult raves of the 1990s. A minimum of attention to the interior and details (except perhaps a crucified neon Jesus over the entrance and flowers in a destroyed toilet), a maximum - to the musical content. The Drugstore is consistently featured on lists of Europe's best nightclubs."
Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 115 (from the boulevard go down to the Danube along the bridge and after 50 meters turn right).
"20/44"
Vasily Yakovenko:
"Night club on the raft. Once it was a strip club (even the poles remained), now trendy DJs from all over the world play here. Unlike most of its counterparts on the water, "20/44" operates all year round, regardless of weather conditions. In summer, dancing takes place on the open deck until dawn; in winter, people hang out below deck. A beautiful view of the night Kalemegdan opens up from the 20/44.
The place does not have an address. Just cross the Brankov Bridge towards New Belgrade and turn right. There are many alloys along the Sava, one of them is "20/44".
Where to stay
Accommodation in Belgrade awaits you for every taste: hostels, hotels, and apartments on Airbnb.
For those who love cheerful companies and unusual hostels, we definitely recommend staying at the ArkaBarka hostel. The hostel stands right on the pontoon - there will always be a feeling that you live on a real ship. Pleasant interior decor, cheerful staff, a bar on the ground floor, many restaurants and discos nearby (all of which are also located on pontoons) - all this is great for those who come to Belgrade for fun and communication.
For a stricter public, we recommend the excellent Townhouse 27 hotel. There are very few modern and interesting boutique hotels in Belgrade - many of them have remained concrete boxes that have not been updated since Yugoslav times. Everything is different here: despite the location in the very center of Belgrade, you will live in a modern hotel with a laconic European design, excellent breakfast and extremely pleasant service. The hotel also has its own wine fields - it produces wine (a must try) and organizes tours. If you're lucky, you might get a room with access to the roof!
Airbnb tip: Serbs are not the most obliging people on earth, so call ahead to confirm the meeting point and time.
Food in Belgrade
What does a classic Belgrade resident look like? He is relaxed and content, and in his hand he has, if not a cup of coffee, then definitely some kind of food. Sitting in a cafe for a Belgrade citizen is the same as going to a store or to work, that is, an integral part of life. No wonder the city has so many cafes, restaurants, eateries and bakeries. The authors of this article had a hard time spending several weeks in Belgrade. By the end of the trip, the jeans were not fastened, and the list of cafes we wanted to go to did not decrease, but, on the contrary, grew.
Breakfast
You will be surprised, but finding a good place for breakfast in Belgrade is not so easy. And all because traditionally Serbs either have breakfast at home or eat a hearty and juicy burek on the way to work. If you want to feel like a local, then stop by ten in the morning at the bakery closest to you. Order a burek and a bottle of drinking yoghurt. If you can master the whole burek, we guarantee: you will not be hungry until four o'clock.
Pekara- Balkan place of power. All the locals know the best bakers in the area, they only go there and buy some incredible amount of pastries. And since everything is signed there only in Serbian, it is not easy to understand the assortment the first time. Svetlana Yakovenko (Vasily's wife) told us in detail about what you can buy at the bakery:
Burek- This is a round cake made of the thinnest dough in several layers. Turkey is considered the birthplace of burek, but it has taken root in the Balkans so much that it is considered a national dish here. Burek can be both with filling (cheese, meat, less often - mushrooms, spinach and other greens), and without it at all (prazan). Sometimes there are sweet bureks, more often with an apple. A serving of burek is a quarter of the whole pie, weighs about 250 grams.
pita- this is not at all the pita in which they put falafel, for example. This is a sausage made from the same dough as burek. The variations of the fillings are almost the same, except that you can often find them with greens, potatoes and various sweet pitas. Pita twisted into a spiral is also sometimes found. It is called sarajevska or bosanska.
kifla(kifla) - a simple bun, often without filling, but sometimes with it.
Gibanitsa(gibanica) - a relative of pita and burek, but it contains a lot of eggs.
Shtapich(štapić) - sticks, often sprinkled with sesame, salt, kim, garlic, olives.
Pepper(pereca) - pretzel.
Jevrek(đevrek) - a relative of the donut.
Pločice(pločice) - bread, often sprinkled with sunflower seeds or flax seeds.
Mrezica(mrežica) - something like a stuffed puff.
Proya (proja) - pastries made from cornmeal, sometimes with cheese, spinach.
Zhu-zhu(žu-žu) - small squares of puff pastry sprinkled with sesame seeds.
Crofna(krofna) - donut.
Pug(puž) - flat "snail" with or without filling.
Vanillice(vanilice) - cookies with a layer.
Well, do not forget about a variety of international croissants, muffins, pizzas, sandwiches, strudels.
If you want a full breakfast, then we recommend that you look here:
red bread
The best place for breakfast in Belgrade. A huge selection of dishes from eggs, cereals, pancakes and two whole menu pages with sandwiches. Especially good are those made on branded tomato bread. Lots of options for vegetarians. From drinks - good coffee, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies.
Address: Dositejeva 22
You need to go to Belgrade for the atmosphere of hooliganism that has almost completely disappeared in modern Europe. The fact is that compared to its neighbors: sweet Ljubljana and clean, combed Zagreb, the capital of Serbia seems to be a place where the “Feast of Disobedience” dragged on and became a way of life.
Smoking is still allowed everywhere here, the garbage on the pavements does not bother anyone, but on the streets no, no, and you will meet musicians, as if pulled out into the real world from another Kusturica film. "This is bad?" you ask me. “This is wonderful,” I will answer you. And not only because Belgrade is a very warm and hospitable city. First of all, he is original and real. Today I will talk about the main things that you should do during your stay in the capital of Serbia.
1. SEE RED EAGLES
If you go to Belgrade by car, then after crossing the Serbian border, carefully look not only at the road, but also around. The fact is that around Belgrade there are no less hefty red eagles than in any national park. Usually they are not aggressive, just sitting on the fences near the highway that connects Serbia with Croatia, and with an indifferent look they are watching the trucks and cars passing by.
However, keep in mind that if a mouse or some other small rodent of those that may interest the eagle as a potential light snack runs out into the road, the bird of prey will immediately take off and try to catch the game. So drive carefully so as not to knock down a handsome red-haired man who decided to eat a mouse right on the roadway.
2. HAVE BREAKFAST IN PEKAR
Breakfasts in hotels in Belgrade, with rare exceptions, are nothing special, so I recommend that all guests of the city go early in the morning to bakeries or "bakers" - if you switch to Serbian. In fact, these are ordinary bakeries, but sometimes coffee is served there.
The best institution with bakery joys - Pekara Trpković, it is located at Nemaњina Street, 32. The legendary bakery was opened back in 1908, and the best buns in the city are sold here. However, why only buns? And bagels, and croissants, and cheesecakes, and bagels are excellent here. Eat them right on the go while walking around the city.
3. VISIT THE NIKOLO TESLA MUSEUM
The Nikolo Tesla Museum is the most interesting attraction in Belgrade, and even if you are basically indifferent to museums, you should look here just for general development. Tesla is without exaggeration one of the most mysterious scientists in history, a figure shrouded in myths and legends, there are rumors that he even managed to move a ship in space.
The Belgrade Tesla Museum is interactive, here all guests are shown prototypes of Nikolo Tesla's inventions, which he presented to investors, and there is also a miniature copy of the famous transformer for producing wireless electricity. By the way, you can experience the action of the invention for yourself: the guests of the museum are given light bulbs, the transformer is turned on, and the light bulbs themselves light up in your hands without any wires - you involuntarily feel like a hero of the movie "Prestige". Yes, the Tesla Museum is also his mausoleum. The scientist was a patriot of Yugoslavia, after his death, according to his will, he was imprisoned in an urn in the shape of a ball and sent to Belgrade. The urn is kept in the museum.
4. EXPLORE SERBIAN GRAFFITI
Most of the houses in Belgrade are not in the best condition, but the shabby facades of the buildings are compensated by the graffiti with which every second house is decorated here.
It must be said that street artists approach the design of objects with imagination and diligence: either you notice a graphic image of a toothy city that eats nature - a kind of manifesto on the topic of environmental problems, or you see a person's face in the entire wall with a window instead of an eye. A detailed study of Belgrade graffiti can take a couple of days, because interesting samples are found not only in the center, but also in sleeping areas.
5. DINNER WITH SONGS IN SCADARLIA
Skadarlija is often called a district, but rather it is just a charming little street that is located on a hill. It was nicknamed the local Montmartre for a very obvious reason - almost all Serbian artists and poets lived and worked here, including Djura Jaksic, one of the most influential poets and playwrights in Serbia. By the way, in the house where he lived, to this day creative meetings of local literary figures are held.
Tourists should go here to dine in the best traditions of Kusturica's films - that is, with wine, songs and dances. Restaurants here are open in every second house, and since gypsies lived in Skadarliya before the poets, they provide the right musical accompaniment to the meal. Sometimes you can even see how gypsies with an orchestra escort restaurant guests home - they follow and sing songs. How can you not remember the movie "Black Cat, White Cat"?
6. WALK ON THE FORTRESS WALLS
The main attraction of Belgrade is the fortress, which gave the name to the city, because the city is not a city, as many people think, but a castle or a defensive structure. Compared to the fortresses of other cities, Belgrade is large; behind its walls, for example, there is even a modern Kalemegdan park, whose name translates as “fortress field”. On weekends, families with children like to relax here, because in the park there are all the conditions for a picnic, and, of course, there are also swings-carousels for kids.
In addition to the monument to the Winner - a sculpture of a naked young man on a high pedestal, which looks menacingly towards Austria-Hungary, the Belgrade fortress is also notable for the fact that its walls, encircling a hill above the Danube, are suitable for walking. They are wide, but at the same time not particularly high, so it’s not scary to walk on them, and the view of the mighty Danube opens from here is exceptional.
7. BUY YOUR CREATIONS BY SERBIAN DESIGNERS
Serbian designers are entertainers, and in the good sense of the word. You can get acquainted with their creations in the Belgrade concept store “Supermarket”, which is located at 10 Vishњiћeva Street. Serbian, Italian and French cuisine.
If we talk about the style of the things presented here, then they can be described as "variations on the theme of Maison Martin Margiela or Acne Studios, but with a Serbian flavor." Clothing prices by local standards are high, but in comparison with their Belgian, French or Swedish counterparts, they are negligible. And, most importantly, everything is of high quality and unparalleled, because most of the Serbian brands are not sold in other countries.
8. OBSERVE THE WORK OF ICON PAINTS IN THE TEMPLE OF SAINT SAVVA
The main church of Belgrade - the temple of St. Sava - has not yet been completed. The majestic building of the cathedral, of course, is impressive from the outside, but inside the temple looks quite ascetic - work on interior decoration is still underway.
But in the cathedral you can see how icon painters are working on the images of the Saints, as they say, right in live mode. By the way, the current temple of St. Sava was erected on the site of the cathedral, burned by the Turks in 1595.
9. SPEND AN EVENING ON THE BETON HALA PROBABILITY
The fashionable youth of the Serbian capital likes to spend their evenings on the embankment, but not on the Danube, but on the Sava River, or rather, on that section of it that is called Beton Hala. Here, right in the middle of traditional Belgrade, there is a conceptual space designed by the architectural studio Sanzpont Arquitectura.
As a result of the vigorous activity of the Spanish-Mexican design bureau, numerous cafes and restaurants, paths for cyclists and joggers have appeared on the embankment under massive canopies, and in the evenings this stretch along the Sava River is beautifully illuminated, so it is pleasant to walk here. Local establishments are all like a selection of “fashionable youth”, the menu has a good selection of wines from Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro, but it’s hard to find classic Serbian chevapchichi here, they have been replaced by now popular burgers and pasta.
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Julia Malkova- Julia Malkova - founder of the website project. Former editor-in-chief of the elle.ru Internet project and editor-in-chief of the cosmo.ru website. I talk about traveling for my own pleasure and the pleasure of readers. If you are a representative of hotels, tourism office, but we are not familiar, you can contact me by email: [email protected]
Imagine a dialogue:
- Why are you so happy?
- On vacation soon.
- Where are you going?
— To Belgrade.
— To Serbia?
- Cool! You are lucky.
Represented? I am having a hard time too. Because nobody never goes on holiday to Serbia. By the will of historical and political whirlwinds, this country was cut off from the warm sea. And, if we go to the Balkans, then, probably, to Montenegro or Croatia. So I ended up in Belgrade simply because "it happened." But I don't regret it at all. And I am ready to list several reasons for visiting the capital of Serbia:
- A visa is not required to enter Serbia. One of the few European countries where Russians can break into without a symbolic stamp in their passport.
- Serbs sincerely love Russians. Yes, not all. Yes, if they didn't love it. But the fact remains. Most Serbs, upon learning that you are from Russia, will treat you with brotherly love.
- For a leisurely walk around Belgrade, one day is enough, which fits perfectly into the Air Serbia flight schedule. The fact is that for this airline, a transfer in the capital for more than 7 hours, in principle, is not uncommon. And given that a visa is not required to enter the city, this is an ideal option for exploring Belgrade. Actually, that's what happened to me.
Getting around Belgrade
To get to the city from Nikola Tesla Airport, you should take a taxi. First, it will save time. We only have one day to explore the city. Secondly, communication with Serbian taxi drivers is just something. Yes, they chat "incessantly" like other members of the profession. But the Serbian language gives them a unique flavor, because it is so similar to Russian. As soon as the driver finds out that you are from Russia, he will remember the whole rich (in his opinion) arsenal of Russian words. And this arsenal consists mainly of Serbian words, which, he hopes, are similar to Russian. In a word, it is very fun and will be remembered for a long time. In addition, taxis from the airport are relatively inexpensive. By the way, the transfer can be ordered in advance. It will come out even cheaper.
It is quite possible to move around the city on foot. The historical center is not so big, and you are unlikely to have a desire to go to the outskirts. The sleeping areas of Eastern Europe are not distinguished by their beauty.
You can get back to the airport by bus. It's cheaper, and we've already talked to the taxi drivers.
Belgrade Fortress - Kalemegdan
