Chianti wine route. Wine and gastronomic itineraries in Tuscany

In the famous Chianti Valley in Italy, we managed to arrive in not the best weather. You can never trust forecasts... This summer does not please Italy at all with hot and sunny weather, it should be noted. At first we were upset when we saw the sky in the clouds. But, gradually blurred landscapes of Tuscany, washed out by high humidity and periodically starting rain, we were simply fascinated.

The views were like on the picturesque canvases of the old masters! As if the bright colors of summer have slightly lost their brightness from time to time ...

I deliberately did not improve the brightness in the photos with Photoshop.

The first breaths of autumn are already felt in Italy.

It comes at the end of October, but already at the end of August we saw slightly yellowed trees.

Endless vineyards with juicy bunches of almost ripe fruits and olive groves in the rounded Tuscan hills - such is it, the Chianti Valley.

Grapes were grown here by the ancient Etruscans.

Medieval castles and farmhouses, which often host cozy hotels; small wineries where you can taste all of the above wines, as well as local sausages and cheeses - you can get stuck here for a long time.

The famous Chianti Classico wines are produced in the Chianti Valley from Chianti grapes. As well as Brunello di Montalcino and San Giovese wines made from San Giovese grapes. The taste of wine differs significantly in different parts of the Chianti Valley.

The Chianti Valley is located within the cities of Prato, Pistoia, and covers an area of about 90,000 hectares. We drove through the central part, called Chianti Classico. In addition to the central part, there are several more areas in the Chianti Valley:

Chianti Montalbano is located near the town of Montalbano north of Florence.
Rufina is located in the northeastern part of the valley.
Colline Fiorentini - south of the central part, in the Siena hills.
Colline Aretina - east and southeast of the city of Arezzo.
Colline Pisane west of the Chianti Classico, near Pisa.
Colline Montespertoli is located along the hills of Montespertoli in the western part of the valley.

The symbol of Chianti is the black rooster depicted on all bottles of wine and numerous souvenirs. The rooster was elevated to the rank of a symbol in the 13th century, when Siena and Florence were actively sorting out relations over the borders of their territories. Then the black cock of Florence crowed before the cock of Siena, bringing victory to his city. (How simply territorial disputes were sometimes resolved in those days ...)

After such a "rooster" victory, the cities of Castellina and Gaiole united in the Military League of Chianti Classico and placed the image of a cockerel on their flag. We drove through the territory of this former league by car.

Classical Tuscan landscapes with cypresses have not left anyone indifferent.

We stopped literally every kilometer to take a couple of shots.

In the Chianti Valley, amazing intoxicating fresh air.

In addition to vineyards, the Chianti Valley is famous for its olive groves and olive oil produced here.

Sometimes cities and towns suddenly appeared among the vineyards. Greve is the capital of the Chianti Classico. Without exception, gray hairs in this area are called with the ending "in Chianti", so most often when communicating in the valley this ending is omitted. seen from afar, it turned out to be quite large, some towers could be seen in the central part. Will definitely visit sometime!

First impressions are always the strongest. The Italian Chianti Valley in my memory will now forever remain in the shroud of rain.

The sun came out only once, showing how the valley looks in bright light.

We will definitely come back here in sunny weather!

Today's post is contemplative and impractical: about jogging (and not only) with views in one of the most beautiful places in Tuscany.

Wine Chianti road or Via Chiantigiana leads from Florence to Siena. These are endless hills, vineyards, cantina wineries, where the famous Chianti red wine is produced, and picturesque landscapes.

We stopped by during Italy and Switzerland, spending the night at a camper park near the town of Castellina in Chianti.

Vehicle and place of residence - two in one

Conditions for jogging in the neighborhood were unrealistically ideal. Comfortable temperatures in late April, local roads with a minimum of traffic (beautiful cyclists are more common in the early morning) and endless gentle hills, behind each of which is a new view. The most difficult thing here is to persuade yourself to stop and run back, there is always another mound from which it is interesting to look.

Even then, having a modest half-marathon experience, I thought that a marathon could also be mastered here. It would be surprising if in such beautiful place it was not: Chianti Ecomarathon, held at the end of October, the route passes through good local primers and trails. Starter pack includes a bottle of Chianti 😉

A good option is to ride bikes along the Chianti road, visiting different wineries and tasting along the way (moderately ;-)).

If you go by car, tasting will be more difficult, but you can thoroughly replenish wine stocks.

Another must see is sunrises and sunsets.

In small towns along the way great amount wine cellars and other tasting places, and just wandering around is also nice.

There are several places that you not only want to see, but also where you definitely want to live, and not in a hotel, but always in a house, and for the house to be old, the view from the window is wonderful. One of these places is Tuscany, more specifically - Chianti Valley. This region is strongly associated with Florence, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, beautiful cities, where the great architects of the Cinquecento and other eras worked, but there is another Tuscany - rural, farming, where the main characters are vines, olive trees and an amazing, incomparable landscape. Hills, valleys ... and again hills and valleys, and so on ad infinitum, leaving in the azure sky.

So, no overnight stays in Florence, only the Chianti Valley and only apartments in a beautiful old house. We have already had to book houses in Provence through the system http://airbnb.ru/ and http://www.homeaway.com/. I talked about this experience in detail in my article Our house in Provence. But it was August, the super high season, and there were many problems, and we arrived in Tuscany at the beginning of April and, as our hostess said, we were the second in this season who settled with her. Therefore, this time we booked simply through www.booking.com without any problems. The problem was only in the best choice, and, fortunately, no mistake happened - the farm turned out to be just great http://www.agriturismosanleo.it/ .

According to the owner, the oldest buildings were over 1000 years old. Now everything has been restored and sharpened for the reception of tourists. All apartments have their own entrance, terrace with outdoor table and chairs, each has a kitchen with stove, dishwasher and refrigerator. Inside there are one or more bedrooms, air-conditioned throughout, but the decor retains the style and spirit of a farmhouse. There are only 9 apartments and they are designed for a different number of guests (from 2 to 6).

There is a swimming pool, but it was not open at the beginning of April. There are olive trees all around, some of them very old.

The farm specializes in the production of olive oil. In the breakfast room there is a winter garden and old olive processing equipment. You can order a tour during which you will be shown the estate itself and modern oil production (45 minutes, 10 euros per person). The hostess speaks English.

Breakfast is not included in the price, but you can order it separately. Seven euros will cost a sweet Italian, but paying another five euros will get you prosciutto, cheese, boiled eggs or scrambled eggs, olives. Everything is very high quality and there is a lot of everything, but the price of 12 euros for breakfast is somewhat annoying, given that the room has a kitchen, and the nearest supermarket is 5 km away.

The Internet is possible only in the version “under the door at the office of the hosts”, but maybe this is for the best.

Dinner is served on the farm on Saturdays. For 25 euros you are offered a variety of snacks, chicken from your own poultry house and red house wine. But we took snacks, wine and Florentine steak (Bistecca alla fiorentina) - a huge piece of beef (1 kg) for two. It turned out to be 35 euros per person. Everything is delicious and very homemade.

Conclusion: Everything is just wonderful! In Tuscany, you have to live just like that - closer to nature. The only thing you need to be prepared for is that there are very winding and narrow roads, constant ups and downs, for those who get sick, I would advise you to come to the Chianti Valley with a supply of anti-sickness funds.

If you want to go on a trip around Europe organized by me, see the current offers for joining groups on my website www.dmitrysokolov.ru

Dmitry Sokolov

Unusual trips to Europe http://www.sokolovcz.ru/
Our boarding house in South Moravia http://www.pansionnalednicke.ru/
My travel blog

The taste of Tuscany is the taste of wine, olive oil and other delicacies; A full acquaintance with these tastes means not only tasting the best examples, but also observing the nature, landscape and production, thanks to which they are born into the world.

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The gastronomic tradition of the region is extremely rich: there are 42 EU-certified wines in Tuscany alone (DOC and DOCG categories). Also in Tuscany there are 19 farms with registered origin and as many as 455 traditional products. For those who want to learn more about the richness of the local gastronomic culture, there are specially designed routes.

Wine route Vino dei Colli di Candia (Lunigiana)

Spelled Garfagnana IGP © finedininglovers.it

The chief product of the Garfagnana region is the chestnut; for many years it has been a staple food. No less famous is the local spelled category IGP (patented geographical name), from which many soups are prepared. The neighboring area, Lunigiana, is best known for the lard from Colonnata (also of the IGP category). You should also definitely try “testaroli” - a kind of pancakes cooked on special “dough” disks made of cast iron or iron directly on a live fire, “zgabei” (fried dough strips) and “panigacci” (flat cakes made from water and flour that are baked in wood stove). In this corner of Tuscany, despite the mountainous landscape, two wines are produced under controlled origin (DOC): Candia dei Colli Apuani Doc and Colli di Luni Doc.

Lucca and Montecarlo: wine and olive oil

Extra virgin olive oil from Lucca, DOP category, is produced from at least 70% Frantoio olives, as well as Leccino, Moraiolo and Pendolino. Local specialties are meat and vegetable garmuja soup, pies with artichokes, onions or potatoes, and trout with pan-fried beets. The main dessert is a buccellato cake made from flour, butter and sugar with the addition of raisins and anise seeds. Wines from the Luccan hills (Colline Luccesi) and from Montecarlo (Montecarlo) have an extremely ancient history dating back to the Etruscan era.

Flavors and colors in the Apennines of Pistoia

Two traditional products for which the region is famous are the ornamental citrus fruits of Tuscany IGP and magnolia from Pistoia IGP. The local farmers are also proud of the beans from Sorana IGP: this variety, with white, small and slightly flattened, flat fruits, has a very delicate taste, which was appreciated by the composer Gioacchino Rossini. They also make pecorino cheese from raw sheep's milk from the mountains and valleys of Pistoia and sweet chestnut flour from the mountains of Pistoia.

"Chestnut Road from Mugello" in Marradi

Chestnuts from Mugello © teladoiofirenze.it

For a long time, the inhabitants of the town of Marradi have associated its history and name with chestnut: it is also called here " breadfruit”, because not so long ago for the inhabitants of the mountains, the chestnut tree was one of the few sources of food. Local culinary specialists have created a wide variety of recipes that will help you appreciate the main product of these forests; in October, a chestnut festival is held in his honor - Sagra delle Castagne. In addition, in this area they love and know how to cook mushrooms, polenta, tortelli, sausages, sauces and game main dishes.

Products of the Casentino Valley

Prosciutto from Casentino DOP © ilmangiaweb.it

Products from the Casentino Valley have been renowned for their quality for centuries. As in many other places in Italy, local producers try to use local products and raw materials to the maximum. Far beyond Casentino, the local ham (Dop category), the Sanbudello pork salsiccia, the Chianina (IGP) Central Apennines white gobies, from which the famous Florentine steak is made, have become famous. Cheese "abbuccato" from Arezzo is not quite ordinary; Chetika is famous for its chestnuts, truffles and red potatoes. The latter is grown in the traditional way and is used to make tortelli (dumplings).

Route through the Tuscan part of the Tiber Valley (Valtiberina)

This valley is home to white Central Apennine Chianina gobies (IGP), whose meat is ideal for steaks, as well as roasting, stewing and boiling. “Pork season” is considered December and January, when sausages, hams, salsicci, sambudelli, soprassata, capocolla, ciccioli and other meat products are harvested. The local olive oil smells of herbs and is made from Gentile, Morcona, Oriola, Frantoia and Lecchina varieties. The list would be incomplete without Kentucky tobacco, which is used to make the famous Tuscan cigars.

Wine route around Arezzo

The Val di Chiana gave its name to the Chianina cow breed, which is now grown in other parts of Tuscany. The meat of this breed has a pronounced taste and contains a moderate amount of fat, evenly distributed throughout the meat. That is why the cooked meat is so soft. A special variety of beans "zolfino" and "Valdar beans" grow here. Among the meat products, we will mention “porchetta”, a roll of suckling pig baked in a wood-fired oven. Another typical dish is the Etruscan rabbit, which is stewed in a pot with onions, garlic and olives. Unusual local yellow salty bread. As for the desserts, you should try the "Aretinski Gatto" - a biscuit roll with chocolate custard. The main wine is Chianti Colli Aretini (Docg) and Cortona (Doc).

Introduction to Chianti Classico

Chianti cuisine draws on the culinary customs of the two provinces, Florence and Siena, creating its own image based on them. A typical example is straccotto alla chiantijana, beef ham with beans, sage, rosemary, garlic and tomatoes. Chianti Docg is the most common wine in Italy. It is grown in six provinces (Arezzo, Florenia, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato, Siena). Chianti from traditional places of growth is designated as Chianti Classico Docg. This incomparable wine is characterized by the smell of violets and plums, has a fruity and harmonious taste and a sour aftertaste that emphasizes its freshness.

Route through the hills of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini wine region

This area is considered a zone of "poor cuisine", the birthplace of such dishes as "trippa" and "lampredotto", "ribollita" and "pappa al pomodoro", which are cooked with stale bread, as well as soups, penne stracciate pasta. Peposo alla fornacina, beef stewed in wine, is another famous local specialty, once a favorite dish of Brunelleschi himself. Pork Cinto-Toscano (Dop category under preparation) is valued no less than the olive oil "Colline di Firenze" (Dop category under preparation). Wine Chianti Colli Fiorentini Docg - bright ruby color, transparent, in the "reserve" version has an even more complex taste and smell with hints of tobacco, baked cherries and plum jam.

Road of Chianti-Rufina and Pomino wines

AT local cuisine mushrooms play an important role. A rather unusual mushroom is popular here - the early hygrophorus, which appears in February, when the snow melts, delighting gourmets with its strong and wonderful taste. Local potatoes are valued: tortelli with potatoes are considered a symbol of Mugello cuisine. Of the dishes that have almost gone out of use, it is worth remembering the chiny soup and "brodo di compenso" - vegetable broth, to which butter and cheese rind are added for taste. Typical wines of the area are Pomino Doc and Chianti Rufina Docg.

Montespertoli wine route

In terms of slope exposure, soil composition and climate, the area of Montespertoli is ideal for growing grapes. In 1997, the Chianti Montespertoli sub-zone was created to emphasize the high quality of local wines intended for long-term bottle aging.

The cuisine here is traditional for the Florentine region: ribollita with kale and canellini beans, panzanella, pappa col pomodoro and Florentine steak. Chianti Montespertoli Docg has a ruby red color that becomes more garnet with age; smell - forest berries and violet. The wine has an excellent structure, velvety and elegant taste.

Medici Road: wines of Carmignano

Dried dates from Carmignano on reed mats have been considered a delicacy since ancient Rome. The shortbread and almond biscuits "cantuccino di Prato" are famous, which goes well with "vin santo". Carmignano is the smallest Docg area in Italy, and the first Tuscan wine (along with Chianti) to be controlled and guaranteed by origin. Its taste is dry and harmonious, the smell is violets and wildflowers.

Montalbano route

Olive oil IGP Toscano, with the refinement Montalbano, is produced from olives of the varieties Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, Pendolino, Rossellino and Piangente. It is green in color with hints of yellow, the taste is fruity, with notes of almond and artichoke. From the sweet, we note “brigidini di Lamporecchio”, the thinnest anise-flavored cookies, “berlingozzo” - a bagel that village gourmets used to wear right around the neck, “cantuccini”, which go so well with a glass of “vin santo”. Chianti Montalbano, now the Docg zone, was famous for its wine as far back as the 13th century! This wine was served at the table of the bishops of Pistoia.

Wine route "Colline Pisane"

The most famous delicacy of the province of Pisa is the white truffle, the fruit of which is the cherry from Lari. Table grapes from San Colombano are also known. It is worth noting several unusual meat dishes, for example, “testicciola alla pizana” - the boiled head of a young bull or lamb, but, of course, fish cuisine dominates here. A typical example is cuttlefish ink risotto. A DOP category for pecorino cheese from Balze Volterrane is currently being formalized. The recently registered Chianti Colline Pisane Docg has become a new star among Tuscan wines.

Wine Route Vernaccia di San Gimignano

San Gimignano is best known for its medieval tower houses, once owned by local aristocrats, each of whom sought to outdo the others in height. Along the route you will meet whole fields of saffron (just now a DOP category is being issued for it).

Vernaccia di San Gimignano Docg is an ancient wine that even Dante mentioned in The Divine Comedy. First, it was awarded the Doc category, and in 1993 - Docg. It is a dry white wine of straw-yellow color with a delicate smell and a dry, harmonious taste.

"Collie Senesi": in the hills around Siena

The most famous Sienese dish is pici. "Panforte" and "Ricciarelli" are also quite famous in Italy, the Igp category for them is now being formalized. The first, by the way, was first mentioned already in 1205: at that time it was made by no less than apothecaries, apparently due to the large number of ingredients in the recipe. It consisted of candied fruit, honey, caramelized sugar, almonds, flour and many spices. The progenitor of "Ricciarelli" was marzipan, they also include sugar and almonds. The sweet became popular in Siena in the 15th century. Wine Chianti Colli Senesi Docg is almost entirely made from the Sangiovese variety. Ruby red wine has a characteristic violet smell. Dessert Vin Santo dei Colli Senesi attracts more and more oenological tourists to the region.

Wine route Nobile di Montepulciano

To the southeast of Siena, at the very border with Umbria, is the town of Montepulciano, called the "pearl of the Cinquecento" for its amazing architecture. As elsewhere in the Siena region, they eat "pichi" (a type of spaghetti made by hand) with meat and mushroom sauces. Red wine Nobile di Montepulciano is mentioned for the first time at the beginning of the XIV century. In 1980, it was awarded the Docg. "Nobile" - slightly tannic, dry, characterized by a garnet color with orange hues, intensifying with aging of the wine. The smell is violet, more or less intense.

Orcia Valley wine route

Local cuisine: grilled meat, homemade pasta, soups, game sauces, Pecorino Terre di Siena cheese, lake fish. Orcia Doc Rosso - versatile wine, white Orcia Bianco is combined with light and fish dishes

Montalcino wine route

Buristo - salami, almost disappeared from the shelves due to new sanitary and hygienic rules, has been made for centuries from pig blood, fat, lemon peel, raisins, pine nuts and spices. Salami "bastradro" - dry-cured sausage, which is made from the same minced meat as salsiccia. Brunello di Montalcino is the first Italian wine to receive the DOCG category. It is produced on the territory of the commune of Montalcino exclusively from the Sangiovese variety, in the local dialect called "brunello". This classic wine pairs well with red meats, roasts, game, and aged cheeses. It can be drunk on its own, as the Italians say, "for meditation."

Wine and food route
Monteregio di Massa Marittima

The cuisine of the Maremma is very diverse and rich, including soups, tagliatelle with sauces, pork and wild boar salsiccia, game dishes. Wine Monteregio di Massa Marittima Doc became known not very long ago. There are eight categories in Doc, including red, reserve, pink, novello. All of them are made from Sangiovese and other red grape varieties. Montregio goes well with different dishes.

Etruscan Coast wine route

The route runs close to the sea, from Cecina to Piombino, partly capturing the island of Elba. Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci are home to the most famous vineyards in the world, from which the Sassicaia is made. Game plays an important role in the local cuisine, and proximity to the sea means a large selection of fish dishes. Octopus with potatoes, Elbe-style mussels, stokkafisso alla rieshe and other interesting recipes are popular on the Elba. An unusual local specialty is strawberry jam, slightly sour, ideally combined with pecorino cheese.

Monteccuco Wine Route and Amiata Mountains

The route covers the slopes of Mount Amiata, which is located between the Maremma lowlands and the Sienese hills. There are many forests, vineyards and olive groves, there are medieval towns, castles and farms with old wine cellars and olive oil presses. In this non-tourist part of Tuscany, food producers do not shy away from innovation, as long as they do not violate centuries-old traditions. The area is famous for its game, mushrooms (primarily porcini and royal mushrooms), chestnuts from Amiata IGP, olive oil from Seggiano olives (DOP category under development).
Montecucco red wine acquired the Doc category not so long ago, in 1998. It is made from Sangiovese and other red grape varieties.

If you were offered to drive along the Chianti wine road in search of a "drunk road", would you agree? So I had no reason to deny myself such an adventure. So what is behind this beautiful description What is this road famous for?

2. "Drunken road" - business card Tuscany, the Orci valley and the city of Montichiello to which it leads. Asphalt belt planted with cypresses, descending from the most picturesque hills, is included in the UNESCO heritage. Her images adorn magnets, spoons, postcards, stamps. Locals even sometimes pray for her. As a guide, I'll post a postcard. This is what we went for.

3. Traveling in Tuscany was given with great difficulty. Leaving Florence, we turned onto the Chianti wine road and headed for miracles. It would seem, what is so difficult? Go, you just have to go.

4. But the trouble is that the landscapes of Tuscany are insanely beautiful. And instead of the road, you want to look around, the speed drops to a minimum, cars honk behind you, you trudge like a stoned drug addict. In 30 minutes I drove only 20 kilometers, took a hundred photos and began to understand that we might not be in time. But I just didn't want to go any further. I could stop at every bush, stone, vineyard

5. The closer we got to the Val d'Orcia, the harder it was to step on the gas.

6. People who are in love with landscapes, romantic natures simply should not be allowed into Tuscany. There is a chance that the psyche will be disturbed, and they will not want to return to their native country.

7. At a certain moment, a thought came to me, but surrendered to me in general " drunk road"? After all, you can stay here. Enjoy the views, uncork a bottle of dry white and learn zen.

8. There are no problems with bottles. Along the road there are local shops where you can buy quality homemade Tuscan wine. How difficult it is to move on!

9. If you understand wine, then such cities as Montalcino and Montepulciano will be reflected in your ears with a gentle echo, your hands will reach for the glass themselves, and your lips will whisper I want.

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10. Oh, it’s not for nothing that this path is called the wine road, because 80% of the territory of Tuscany is covered with vineyards, and local wineries have received world fame and gold medals from various noble drink competitions.

11. Did I already say that it is very difficult to drive and not stop?

12. During the Renaissance, students of the Sienese art school honed their skills on local natural landscapes. The paintings still reflect the beauty of Tuscany. But how is it possible not to become an artist, a poet or a winemaker here?

13. Could not stand it. He abandoned the car and ran into the fields.

14. If there is beautiful landscapes, delicious wine, then you can live here. We must pay tribute to the Italians, not to spoil the beauty of these places, but even to embellish - art. Soon I will tell you about a couple of local towns. They deserve a separate story.

15. Almost arrived. There is little left. Here she is already drunk dear, only the view from above. Did you drive in vain?

16. But first, a couple more landscapes.

17. Almost finished postcard or magnet. I'm thinking of ordering for friends and giving them as gifts. It's a good idea to give magnets of your own production with your photos. Or I'll collect a collection and give it to New Year all calendar.

18. I didn’t drive in vain. Oh, not in vain. He denied himself wine, swallowed saliva, hurried at stops. Not in vain.