The Loire Valley and its castles. Castles of the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is the birthplace of the French Renaissance, one of the most picturesque and poetic places on Earth, where the literary French language has developed. The natives of these places were Francois Rabelais, Pierre Ronsari Honore Balzac. Here François Villon and Victor Hugo, Stendhal and Jules Verne, Oscar Wilde, George Sand and Charles Perrault drew their inspiration for writing new works.

But, of course, the main attraction of the valley are the numerous castles, most of them built or significantly rebuilt during the French Renaissance, which served as a haven for royalty in difficult times. The abundance of magnificent architectural and historical monuments in this part of France determined the inclusion of the Loire Valley in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Traditionally, 42 castles are called castles of the Loire (although the English Wikipedia mentions as many as 300). Let's look at a few of the most famous.

Chenonceau Castle (Chateau de Chenonceau) is unique for its original location on the Cher River, as well as its destiny. He was loved, cherished and protected by women such as Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici. Today, Chenonceau Castle is the second most visited castle in France after
Versailles.

Valencay Castle (Chateau de Valencay) combines two architectural styles - Renaissance and Classicism. It is fully furnished and is surrounded by superb French style gardens and an English park. At one time, the castle belonged to Talleyrand, for whom it was acquired by Napoleon in 1803.

Azay-le-Rideau Castle (Chateau d "Azay-le-Rideau), erected on an island in the middle of the Indre River, in its present form was built during the reign of Francis I by the wealthy financier Gilles Berthelot, who wanted to embody Italian innovations in French architecture. Surrounded by greenery, lock
washed by the waters of the Indra, in which its walls are reflected.

The Royal Castle of Blois (Chateau Royal de Blois) is the favorite residence of the French kings Louis XII and Francis I. The castle is located in the center of Blois, on the right bank of the Loire, and offers tourists
a real panorama of the art and history of the castles of the Loire.

Saumur Castle (Chateau de Saumur) is located in the town of the same name, which is considered the cavalry capital of France (the National Riding School is located here), also known for its champignons and wine. There are three museums inside the castle: applied arts (porcelain, 15th century tapestries), horses (stirrups, bridles, a collection of saddles and sledges from the Russian "troika") and old toys (animals, clowns and soldiers).

Chambord Castle (Chateau de Chambord) - the largest of all the castles of the Loire. It was built by order of Francis I, who wanted to be closer to his beloved lady - Countess Turi, who lived nearby.

Cheverny Castle (Chateau de Cheverny) is recognized as the castle with the most magnificent furnishings. Famous for its kennel and regular dog hunts. The Moulinsard castle from the comics of the Belgian artist Hergé is copied from the Cheverny castle.

Angers Castle (Chateau d "Angers) - a large medieval fortress with seventeen towers was built by the young St. Louis on the border of his kingdom in the 13th century. From the Neolithic to the 21st century, this place constantly changed its appearance and purpose, while each period left its own Beyond the walls are living quarters and gardens.In the castle, the famous tapestry "Apocalypse", the largest work of medieval masters, is exhibited.

Castle Clos Luce (Le Clos Luce) - House Museum of Leonardo da Vinci. At the beginning of 1516, Leonardo da Vinci accepted the invitation of King Francis I and settled in France. The artist died on May 2, 1519 and was buried in the Amboise castle, which is located nearby and is connected to the Clos Luce castle by an underground passage. The Clos Lucé was saved from destruction during the revolution by the d'Amboise family. It then became the property of the Saint Bris family. This family has kept the castle to this day. Today, the Leonardo da Vinci Museum is organized in Clos Luce. In the castle and park, the universe of Leonardo da Vinci is recreated and comes to life.

The Royal Castle of Amboise (Chateau Royal D "Amboise), towering over the Loire in the city of Amboise, becomes a royal residence during the reign of Kings Charles VIII and Francis I (late 15th-early 16th centuries). Many European artists and writers lived at the court in Amboise for the invitation of the kings, like Leonardo da Vinci - here he finished the "Gioconda", here he died in 1519. The great artist was buried, as is commonly believed, in the castle chapel of St. Hubert.

Chapel where Leonardo da Vinci is buried

Chaumont-sur-Loire Castle (chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire) is located on the estate of the same name, where there is also a landscape park with centennial cedars and the International Flower Festival is held. The sharpest and most original minds lived here - Catherine de Medici, Diane de Poitiers, Nostradamus, Ruggieri, Benjamin Franklin, Germaine de Stael, as well as the wayward princess of Broglie, who turned Chaumont-sur-Loire into a refined and sophisticated French-style residence.

Langeais Castle (Chateau de Langeais) was founded at the end of the 10th century by the Angevin Count Fulk the Black (the founder of the Plantagenet dynasty) on a rock hanging over the Loire Valley. Castle in the 12th century
was expanded by his descendant Richard the Lionheart. Philip II Augustus retook Lange from the Angevin counts in 1206, then it was partially destroyed by the British in the Hundred Years' War. From the building of that era, the facade of the main tower, nicknamed the “Donjon of Fulk the Black”, has been preserved - it is considered the oldest surviving stone fortress in France. The rest of the castle was built in the second half of the 15th century, under Louis XI.

Villandry Castle (Chateau de Villandry) is located 15 km west of the city of Tours along the D7 highway. Known for its 3 gardens, a donjon rising above ornamental gardens (1 ha), a garden in ornaments and a garden with a pond.

Fontevraud Abbey (Abbaye de Fontevraud) is one of the largest monastic complexes in Europe, the tomb of the royal Plantagenet dynasty. The Abbey of Fontevraud impresses both in size and
originality. Turned into a prison by Napoleon in 1804, it escapes destruction and becomes a formidable place of confinement. The last prisoners will leave it only in 1985. Today it is the Cultural Meeting Center (according to the terminology of the Ministry of Culture and Communication). The Abbey hosts concerts, conferences and exhibitions. The abbey also promotes the flourishing of creativity, hosting and accommodating artists.

For many of us France primarily associated with the novels of Alexandre Dumas. Musketeers, intrigues, Renaissance entourage, defiant luxury of the royal court, all this can be seen with your own eyes in one of the most beautiful places in France - Valley of the castles of the Loire.

Since the reign of Charles VIII, each of the kings of France has contributed to the transformation of the once formidable medieval fortresses into beautiful palaces, many of which became royal residences, and some, such as Chambord Castle, now look like fairytale castles.

Indefatigable imagination, the work of the best European masters of architecture and art, the huge funds that the French monarchs spent on arranging the Valley of Castles, turned this beautiful region of France into a truly stunning place in its beauty. Each castle not only occupies an advantageous strategic position, but also fits surprisingly well into the natural landscape.

There is a belief that having been in the Loire Castle Valley, you can heal the most inveterate spiritual wounds, and for this reason many tourists from all over the world seek this paradise, not only to admire, but also to improve their peace of mind, exhausted by a mad rhythm of modern cities.

It is gratifying that the French, despite the upheavals of the Great French Revolution, the horrors of the First and Second World Wars, managed to carefully preserve their national heritage.

Which castles of the Loire are worth visiting

Valley of the Loire Castles gave the world community such geniuses as Francois Rabelais, Pierre Ronsard and Honore de Balzac. Here Victor Hugo, Stendhal, Jules Verne, Oscar Wilde, Charles Perrault drew their inspiration to create their masterpieces.
For those who want vivid impressions and a storm of positive emotions from the trip, it is better to choose the time to visit the Valley in the summer. Each of the castles presents rich entertainment programs during the summer months, colorful festivals, unique exhibitions and enchanting costume shows are held.

For lovers of a leisurely and measured rest, the best time to travel is autumn. The climate in the Valley at this time of the year is mild and warm, the flow of tourists, including cars, is noticeably reduced.

Many travel agencies offer specialized tours of the Valley of Castles, but if you wish, you can take a tour on your own, either by car or by bike. Moreover, cycling has become increasingly popular in recent years. Throughout the route, convenient bike paths with simple and understandable signs are laid. In addition, for thrill-seekers, there is the possibility of exploring the entire Valley in a hot air balloon.

The route and time of your voyage can be planned in advance, on the official websites of any of the castles, a service is provided, booking tickets and excursions.

When going on a trip, remember that your route will run through the countryside, and for this reason, take into account the national catering rules of France, after 14:00 you will not be served food in any establishment, you will have to endure until dinner. In large cities, of course, you will have a chance to have a bite to eat, but in the cities and towns of the Valley, the rule of a lunch break from 12:00 to 14:00 is unshakably observed.

Currently, there are more than 300 castles in the Valley and each of them is worthy of a separate study and description, but we decided to present you some of the most interesting castles.



Chateau de Chambord
official website: www.chambord.org
phone: + 33 2 54-50-40-00
One of the brightest representatives of the Renaissance. There is an opinion that Leonardo da Vinci himself took an active part in the design of the castle. Which is very similar to the truth, given that many of the ideas of Leonardo, known to modern historians and scientists, were embodied in the stone of Chambord Castle.

Amboise Castle (Сhâteau d'Amboise)

official website: www.chateau-amboise.com
phone: +33 2 47-57-00-98
The castle was repeatedly rebuilt, destroyed, changed its owners, and only in the post-war years, active restoration work began. Moreover, they were carried out so successfully that the city of Amboise, which owns the castle of the same name, received the poetic name "Garden of France".
It is certainly worth visiting the Saint-Hubert Chapel, where the ashes of Leonardo da Vinci, who spent his last years of life in the Clos Luce castle, located a kilometer from Amboise, are buried. A lot of mysteries are hidden by the walls of the ancient castle, to this day, the solution to the mystery is unknown, which, before his death, Leonardo told King Francis I about the materialization formula.


Clos Lucé Castle

Leonardo da Vinci park
Parc Leonardo Da Vinci
official website: www.vinci-closluce.com
phone: +33 2 47-57-00-73
Currently, the castle is a memorial dedicated to the life and work of Leonardo da Vinci. Visitors can see the place where the great Italian scientist rested and worked. In addition, we can see with our own eyes the embodiment of one of the talents of this unique scientist and thinker, Leonardo da Vinci Park.

official website: www.chateau-cheverny.fr

Phone: + 33 2 54-79-96-29

The castle is a private property owned by the Vibre family. A large area of ​​the castle has been turned into an interesting museum. For visitors, two unique gardens are of particular interest: the Garden of Concord, which embodies modern trends in horticultural art, and the Garden - a vegetable garden, where plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern.
In summer, the castle hosts one of the most prestigious fine art auctions. And on June 28, 2013, the 6th International Jazz Festival starts.

Chateau de Chantilly
official website: www.chateaudecchantilly.com
telephone: Tel. : +33 3 44-27-31-80
A castle, Chantilly is world famous for its magnificent park, the famous stables and horse museum, as well as the second most important museum in France - the Condé Museum. Chantilly annually hosts one of the most prestigious races in France, which brings together the entire elite of the country.
When planning an independent visit to the castle, do not forget that on Tuesdays, the castle, park, stables and horse museum are closed.


Azay-le-Rideau Castle (Château d'Azay-le-Rideau)

official website: azay-le-rideau.monuments-nationaux.fr
phone: (+33) 2 47-45-42-04
One of the oldest castles in the Valley, it was repeatedly destroyed and restored. Currently, it is a fully furnished castle that easily takes us to the era of France, the Renaissance.
For lovers of theatrical art, the famous performances of "Dreams and Lights" are held annually from May to September in this castle.



official website: www.ville-blois.fr
phone: +33 02 54-90-33-33
The castle is interesting because you can see with your own eyes the transition of architectural fashion from Gothic, early Gothic, Renaissance to classical style. In the castle, in the summer, large-scale historical fencing performances and grandiose sound and light shows are held. Please note that the castle is only closed to the public on January 1st and December 25th.


Chateau Villandry

official website: www.chateauvillandry.com
phone: +33 2 47-50-02-09
The next castle impresses with an unusual three-level garden, designed by the owner of the castle, I. Carvallo, in 1910. Upper level: the bewitching expanse of the cleanest reservoirs, graceful fountains, all this splendor of water sets visitors in a philosophical mood. Intermediate: Artfully trimmed boxwood bushes symbolize the theme of love and all that is associated with this wonderful feeling. Lower level: an amazing combination of flower and vegetable crops arranged in a checkerboard pattern, in strict accordance with the seasons. This stunning plant ensemble is complemented by a medicinal herb garden, where you can see the variety of medicinal flora with your own eyes.

Langeais Castle

official website: www.chateaulangeis.com
phone: +33 2 47-96-72-60
In the castle of Langeais, in the wedding hall, you can see a composition of wax figures recreating the process of the marriage of Charles VIII and Anne of Bretno, the famous union that marked the beginning of the unification of France and Brittany.



official website: www.chaumont-sur-loire.eu
phone: +33 2 54-51-26-26
The Château de Chaumont on the Loire hosts an international garden festival. Professionals and young specialists in landscape design create hundreds of gardens every year, presenting visitors with a magnificent panorama of flowering plants.
Nostradamus lived in this castle, invited by Catherine de Medici, the famous patroness of astrologers.

(Château d'Usse)

official website: www.tourisme.fr/usse
phone: +33 02 47-95-54-05
It was this beautiful castle that inspired the famous writer and literary critic Charles Pierrot to create the fairy tale "Sleeping Beauty". In the castle you can admire a magnificent collection of ancient weapons and a large exposition of wax figures, as you probably guessed, based on the fairy tales of S. Piero

(Château de Chinon)
official website: http://www.forteressechinon.fr/index_en.php
phone: (+33) 2 47-93-13-45
This castle is rightfully the "richest" in terms of historical events. It was here that Richard the Lionheart spent his last days, mortally wounded during the siege of Chalu Chabrol. The gray cardinal Richelieu owned this castle since 1463 and loved to retire here, and the Knights Templar languished in the dungeons of the castle after the destruction of the order.
In addition, for every Frenchman, Chinon has a special meaning, and to this day, it is a symbol of the revival of France. It is known for certain that it was here that Joan of Arc convinced Charles VII to give her an army and set off on her victorious campaign to liberate the country from the British. You should definitely visit the museum, which is entirely dedicated to this truly great woman.

You can book an excursion to the Loire Valley

The castles of the Loire are one of the must-see attractions in France. The real masterpieces of the Renaissance, which are scattered along the banks of one of the largest rivers in the country - the Loire. I dreamed of visiting them even before I moved to live in France. The first time I learned about them from the novels of Alexandre Dumas - "The Countess de Montsoreau" (the castle of Montsoreau really exists too, in the Loire Valley), "Two Dianas", etc.

We went on a tour of the castles of the Loire in winter, in January. Winter in France is like a late Russian autumn, so it was not so cold. And the gray castles fit perfectly into the local landscape. I could only admire the genius of the people who built them.

They are located in the Loire Valley, an area of ​​the country that is of great interest to tourists. In addition to the world-famous castles, there are also some of the best vineyards in the whole country. We drove past many of them. It is impossible to speak about wines from this region. They must be tasted to appreciate their mild taste and sweet aftertaste.

I have the most pleasant memories of the region itself. The wide banks of the Loire with rare trees along the edges, wide green fields, majestic castle walls that suddenly appear among the city landscapes - that's what I saw.

According to the new administrative reform of France from 2014, the official name of the area is Center - Loire Valley. It includes such large cities as Orleans, Blois, Tours.

The region is located in the very center of France, from where it takes about 2 hours to get to Paris. He is internal. It has no access to the sea, unlike most of them.

This region impresses with its green meadows and stretching vineyards along them. It is not so cold there in winter. The advantage when visiting it in the off season is that you do not have to deal with the crowds of tourists that flood it from May to September.

How to get there

It is more convenient to get to the Loire Valley from Paris by train, bus or car. There are no major international airports in the region, which means that the option by plane is not relevant, since the small airport in Tours is focused only on domestic flights. There are no flights even with transfers from Moscow.

By plane

You can fly to Paris or Nice, from where you will need to get to the Loire Valley by public transport. For more information about flights to these cities and about what other airports there are in France, I wrote at. You can compare airfare prices in the right direction.

Tours has a regional airport. This is a small air hub where low-cost airlines and charters fly. Ryanair, Airlinair, Air France offer flights there for 18-21 EUR from Paris, Nice, Marseille.

The only airport terminal is located 15-20 minutes from the city, which can be reached by taxi (10-15 EUR) or bus (from 2 EUR) in 15-20 minutes.

By train

Trains depart from Moscow to Paris. There are only two of them:

  • 023 - departure from Moscow on Wednesdays at 22:15 and Fridays at 09:33;
  • 024 - departure from Moscow on Fridays at 18:58 and Sundays at 11:01.

Travel time will be more than a day. Trains pass through major European cities: Karlsruhe, etc. Tickets cost from 200 EUR.

From Paris, trains go to the cities of Blois, Tours or Orleans. These are the major cities in the Loire Valley from where you can start your journey through this region. In Paris, you need to board trains at Austerlitz and Montparnasse stations. Travel time will be 2 hours if you choose a regular train, and about an hour if you go by high-speed (TGV). Tickets cost from 50-100 EUR. To save money, buy them in advance, otherwise the prices may seem cosmic.

By bus

Ecolines buses will take you from Moscow to Paris. Ticket price - from 200 EUR. From there you can take buses from SNCF, Intercités, Alsa, etc. The bus ticket is from 21 EUR. Departure in Paris - from the metro stations Porte Maillot, Concorde and others.

I went to the Loire Valley by bus, the cost of which was included in the total price of the tour. I like it. It was comfortable and our bus was equipped with a dry closet.

By car

Choosing the option to get to the Loire Valley by car, you will immediately make your trip comfortable and convenient.

In order to go from Russia by car to the Valley itself, you need to take into account many nuances. I talked about them in more detail in my review. The choice of routes depends on which countries in Europe and what you want to visit during your trip.

My friend in Paris was just traveling with her husband through the castles of the Loire by car. According to her, it's very cool! You can even visit castles that are usually not included in tourist routes.

From Paris, take the A10 motorway to Orléans. The river running nearby will serve as your guide. Drive all the way to Saumur - from it to Blois another 150 kilometers. On the way, many castles of the Loire will come across.

Clue:

Loire Valley - time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 1

Kazan 1

Samara 2

Yekaterinburg 3

Novosibirsk 5

Vladivostok 8

When is the season. When is the best time to go

I do not advise you to go to the Loire Valley at the height of the tourist season. At this time, crowds of tourists are everywhere. We were there in January and still met other tour groups.
The best time to visit is the end and beginning of the season, that is, the beginning of May and the end of September. The sun is still shining, and there are fewer tourists.

Loire Valley in summer

In summer it is wonderful to visit the Loire Valley: flowers bloom in the gardens at the castles, vineyards turn green in the endless meadows along the banks of the river. A beautiful sight!

The temperature during the day reaches 35 ° C, and in the evening it drops by only a couple of degrees.

Loire Valley in autumn

Autumn evokes a pleasant melancholy in castle parks. Sunny weather is replaced by rain. Clouds hang over the Loire, threatening to burst into rain every hour.

During the day, the temperature does not rise above 15 ° C, and in the evening it becomes cooler.

Loire Valley in Spring

Spring comes already in March. Gradually it becomes warmer, and the temperature already reaches 20-25 °C.

Clouds are no longer gathering, but it may well still rain.

Loire Valley in winter

In the winter in the Valley, I felt like in late autumn, here in Russia. Rainy, wet, damp, overcast. As a rule, the temperature is 5-10 ° C, rarely it drops to 0 ° C. The river is still cold.

From the rains, fogs form, which spread around.

Clue:

Loire Valley - monthly weather

What are the prices for holidays

An excursion with a visit to two castles cost me 90 EUR. This price included transportation by bus and excursion service. There are excursions to the castles of the Loire lasting from two days or more. They cost more - from 180 EUR. You can also go wild, but it's better to do it in your car. Castles are scattered along the banks of the Loire, and some are located away from the cities.

Staying at a hotel in Blois, Tours or Amboise will cost 30-60 EUR per day. It all depends on what kind of hotel it is. You can compare prices for accommodation, and book a room - at. And on you can find housing that is rented by local residents.

A snack in a restaurant or cafe will cost from 30 EUR per person. If you are traveling with a tour, then take food with you. It's cheaper and more convenient: you don't have to run from the cafe to catch the bus.

Main attractions. What to see

The main attractions of the region are its castles. Many were built in the middle Ages or in its late period. With the advent of the Renaissance, which came to France from Italy, castles began to be rebuilt and remodeled. The nobles of that time wanted to match that fashion.

Many of the works were carried out under the guidance of Italian architects and artists who came to work in France. The famous Leonardo da Vinci ended his days in one of the castles of the Loire - in Amboise, working at the court of King Francis I.

Castles belonged to nobles, kings or their mistresses and wives. Chenonceau Castle belonged to the mistress of King Henry II - Diane de Poitiers.

Each of them has its own architecture and its own history. We visited two - Amboise and Chambord.

The second attraction is the vineyards of the Loire. The region's grapes produce excellent rosé and red wines.

Numerous museums and abbeys complete this list, but more about them below.

Top 5

Locks. Which are worth a visit

Castles are the hallmark of the Loire Valley! Below I will list 5 of them, which are most often visited by tourists. They are also interesting from a historical point of view.

Amboise Castle (Chateau d "Amboise)

The name comes from the name of the first owners - the Amboise family. The current building of the castle was erected at the end of the 15th century under the guidance of Italian masters. Amboise became the first castle in France, near which a garden was arranged.

It was the favorite residence of King Francis I. Leonardo da Vinci, invited by him, finished his Gioconda in the halls of Amboise. Here he died, so his grave is located in the chapel adjacent to the castle.

During the time of Napoleon III, one of the national heroes of Algeria, Abd al-Qadir, lived in the castle.

The first thing that impressed me about this castle was the height of the walls. They are simply amazing. The castle is located in the city of the same name Amboise. The main entrance is easy to find - large steps lead to it. Many chambers inside have been preserved with furniture, tapestries, and paintings.

Next to the castle is a chapel with the tomb of the Great Leonardo. Inside you can also see magnificent stained-glass windows depicting various subjects. An elegant but simple chapel.

A small garden nearby completes the visit.

Working mode: daily, except January 1 and December 25.

  • January 2–31: 09:00 - 12:30 and 14:00 - 16:15;
  • February 1–28: 09:00 - 12:30 and 13:30 - 17:00;
  • March 1–31: 09:00 - 17:30;
  • April 1 - June 30: 09:00 - 18:30;
  • July 1 - August 31 - 09:00 - 19:00;
  • September 1 - November 1 - 09:00-18:00,
  • from 2 to 15 November - 09:00-17:30;
  • November 16 - December 24: 09:00 - 12:30 and 14:00 - 16:45;
  • December 26 - 31: 09:00 - 16:45.

Cticket price:

  • 11.50 EUR - adult,
  • 9.90 EUR - for students,
  • 7.70 EUR - for children from 7 to 18 years old.

Clos-Lucé Castle (Chateau du Clos-Lucé)

It was Leonardo's last home. Here he lived, and came to Amboise to create through a secret passage, which to this day connects both castles. The castle is small, it was built in the Late Middle Ages. His style is called Flaming Gothic. Inside, the interior of Leonardo's room and several other rooms in the Renaissance style were recreated.

In the nearby park there are inventions recreated according to the drawings of the Great Italian - prototypes of a helicopter, an airplane, a tank, a car, and the like. It is very interesting to wander there and see firsthand the genius of this man.

Working mode: daily, except January 1 and December 25.

  • January: 10:00 - 18:00;
  • from February to June: 09:00 - 19:00;
  • from July to August: 09:00 - 20:00;
  • from September to October: 09:00 - 19:00;
  • from November to December: 09:00 - 18:00.

Ticket price:

  • from March 1 to November 15: 15.50 EUR - adult; children from 7 to 18 years old - 11 EUR and up to 7 years old - free of charge.
  • From November 16 to February 28: 13.50 EUR - adult; children from 7 to 18 years old - 10.50 EUR and up to 7 years old - free of charge.

Chambord Castle (Chateau de Chambord)

Almost all souvenirs dedicated to the castles of the Loire feature this particular castle. He is really very handsome on the outside. The facade of the building strikes with unusual grace and harmony of all lines.

Inside there is a remarkable staircase, the authorship of which is attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. It is located in the main hall of the castle and connects the first floor to the roof. Its unusualness lies in the fact that it is two-way or double. People who descend cannot meet those who ascend.

We climbed up to the roof. From there you have a magnificent view of the park nearby. It is also pleasant to walk there because you can see all the small details of the roofs up close. It's very beautiful there!

In the castle itself, most of the rooms and chambers are empty. Only a few of them are furnished. If you turn right on the first floor, you will see luxurious chambers in the style of the 18th century.

Exhibitions dedicated to contemporary art are held on the top floor. During our visit there were various installations and paintings with teeth.

Lilies can be seen everywhere in the halls and stairs - this is the emblem of the kings of France, and the salamander is the symbol of King Francis I.

  • from November 1 to March 31: 09:00 - 17:00;
  • from April 1 to October 31: 09:00 - 18:00.

Ticket price: 13 EUR (ticket valid for visiting the castle and park)

Chenonceau Castle (Chateau de Chenonceau)

This castle is called ladies', as for almost its entire history it belonged to noble ladies and queens of France. The most famous of them are Diane de Poitiers, mistress of King Henry II, and his wife, Catherine de Medici.

Near the castle are gardens named after these women. The castle initially belonged to the first of them, but with the death of the king, Catherine took it from her rival.

The whole complex consists of a medieval keep, the castle itself and the gardens of the two ladies. Inside, not only numerous chambers have been preserved, but also a Wax Museum has been created. There you can see Queen Catherine, and Diane de Poitiers, and Queen Louise, who lived here for a long time.

The park also has a labyrinth, which is interesting to walk around.

Working mode:

  • January 1 - February 3: 09:30 - 17:00;
  • February 4 - March 31: 09:30 - 17:30;
  • April 1 - May 28: 09:00 - 19:00;
  • May 29 - June 30: 09:00 - 19:30;
  • July 1 - August 31: 09:00 - 20:00;
  • September 1–30: 09:00 - 19:30;
  • October 1 - November 5: 09:00 - 18:30;
  • November 6–12: 09:00 - 18:00;
  • November 13 - December 31: 09:30 - 17:00.

Ticket price:

  • 13 EUR - adult,
  • 10 EUR - children from 7 to 18 years old,
  • children under 7 years old - free of charge.

Villandry Castle (Chateau de Villandry)

The gardens of Villandry Castle can be called Versailles in miniature. This is a real work of park art. Trimmed bushes in different shapes and lines, connect and diverge, forming original patterns. The gardens are located on three levels. On the middle of them there are Gardens of Love. Secluded arbors, entwined with ivy, seem to invite you to retire to them.

The inner chambers of the castle amaze with no less luxury and variety. All furniture and interior are completely preserved. You can also climb to the very tower of the castle, from where you can see all the gardens in full.

Working mode:

  • January. Gardens- 09:00–17:00. Lock- January 1-2 - 09:30-16:30, January 3-31 - closed.
  • February. Gardens- February 1-3 - 09:00-17:00, February 4-28 - 09:00-17:30. Lock- February 1-3 closed, February 4-28 - 09:00-17:00.
  • March. Gardens- March 1-25 - 09:00-18:00 and March 26-31 - 09:00-19:00. Lock- March 1-25 - 09:00-17:30 and March 26-31 - 09:00-18:00.
  • April to June. Gardens- 09:00–19:00. Lock- 09:00–18:00.
  • From July to August. Gardens- 09:00–19:30. Lock- 09:00–18:30.
  • September. Gardens- 09:00–19:00. Lock- 09:00–18:00.
  • October. Gardens- October 1-28 - 09:00-18:30, October 29-31 - 09:00-17:30. Lock- October 1-28 - 09:00-18:00, October 29-31 - 09:00-17:00.
  • November. Gardens- November 1-12 - 09:00-17:30, November 13-30 - 09:00-17:00. Lock- November 1-12 - 09:00-17:00, November 13-30 closed.
  • December. Gardens- 09:00–17:00. Lock- December 1-22 closed, December 23-31 - 09:30-16:30.

Ticket price:

  • From November 14th to March 31st. Adults - 8.5 EUR (castle and gardens) 4.5 EUR (gardens). Children from 8 to 18 years old - 5.5 EUR (castle and gardens) and 3.5 EUR (gardens).
  • April 1st to November 13th. Adults - 10.5 EUR (castle and gardens) and 6.5 EUR (gardens). Children from 8 to 18 years old - 7 EUR (castle and gardens) and 5 EUR (gardens).
  • Children under 8 years old - free of charge at any time of the year.

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

Orleans has some of the most beautiful cathedrals and churches in the country. And how not to remember the monasteries that managed to survive wars and revolutions, bearing the traces of history!

Sainte-Croix Cathedral or Orleans Cathedral (La cathédrale Sainte-Croix)

It is clear from the name that it is located in the city of Orleans. Gothic in its pure, original form - that's what this cathedral is. In its beauty, it is not inferior to Notre Dame Cathedral. Inside there is everything inherent in Gothic cathedrals: a rose window, stained glass windows, a carved altar.

Opening hours: 09:00 - 17:30.

The entrance is free.

Fontevraud Abbey

It has a rich and eventful history. It was one of the most famous monasteries in all of Europe in the Middle Ages. Here are the graves of Eleanor of Aquitaine - one of the most beautiful women of that era - and her second husband, Henry II Plantagenet, King of England. King Richard the Lionheart, the son of Eleanor and Henry, is also buried on the territory of the abbey.


It was built from the XII century and is a combination of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. It can be confused with a castle, but it is a monastery. You can walk both inside and outside.


Opening hours:

  • from January to March and from November to December: 10:00 - 17:30;
  • from April to June, from September to October: 09:30 - 18:30;
  • from July to August: 09:30 - 19:30.

Entry fee:

  • adults - 9 EUR,
  • children under 8 years old - free of charge,
  • from 8 to 18 years old - 6 EUR.

Fleury Abbey

A visit to the monastery itself, which is still in operation, is not possible. For tourists, only the church of Saint-Benois or Saint Benedict is open. This is a legacy of Romanesque architecture. The high vaults inside and the columns amaze with the genius of the craftsmen who built this church.


Opening hours: 06:30 - 22:00.

The entrance is free.

Noirlac Abbey (Abbaye Noirlac)

From French le lac noir means "black lake". This name comes from the fact that the son of one of the landowners drowned in a nearby lake. The monastery of the XII century is perfectly preserved. He was repeatedly subjected to robberies and raids during the wars, which he almost always waged. Now it is no longer active, and a museum is arranged inside.


Opening hours:

  • from February 1 to March 14: 14:00 - 17:00;
  • from March 15 to October 15: 10:00 - 18:30;
  • from October 16 to December 23: 14:00 - 17:00.

Visit cost:

  • adults - 7 EUR;
  • children under 12 years old - free of charge.

Church of Our Lady Patroness (Église Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance d "Orléans)

It is located in Orleans and is notable for the fact that organ music concerts are held there. At least once in your life you should listen to the works on the organ resounding under the vaults of the ancient church. The stained-glass windows of the 16th century are also a purely aesthetic pleasure.


Opening hours: 09:00 - 17:30.

The entrance is free.

Museums. Which are worth a visit

Most of the museums are located in the major city of the Loire Valley region - this is Orleans. There are other interesting museums in the Loire Valley. I will list the most significant of them.

House of Jeanne d "Arc (Maison Jeanne d" Arc)

This is a house restored after the Second World War, where Joan of Arc lived only a few days after Orleans was taken by her army. The exposition is the rooms where the Maid of Orleans lived. The museum is small.


Working mode:

  • from October to March: 14:00 - 18:00;
  • from April to September: 10:00 - 18:00;
  • closed on Mondays and public holidays.

Entrance ticket price: 4 EUR (with this ticket you can also enter the Historical and Archaeological Museum).

Historical and Archaeological Museum of Orleans (Musée historique et archéologique de l "Orléanais)

The museum is located in the Hotel Cabut, which once belonged to Diane de Poitiers. The museum exposition contains a collection of Gallo-Roman antiquities discovered not far from here, statues of the late Middle Ages. Part of the museum is dedicated to Jeanne, the famous savior of France.


Working mode:

  • Tuesday - Saturday: 09:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:45;
  • Sunday: 14:00 - 18:00;
  • Monday is a day off.

Entrance ticket price: 12 EUR.

Groslot Mansion (Hôtel Groslot d "Orléans)

Don't be surprised if the French name says hotel. Previously, in France, the mansions of noble people were called hotels. This mansion belonged to the bailiff Jacques Grosso.


King Francis II died in this house, and Kings Henry IV and Charles IX stayed here during their visits to Orleans.


It is interesting because inside you can see beautiful examples of antique furniture and tapestries of the 16th century. Chapel Saint-Jacques and a statue of Joan of Arc adorn the courtyard of the mansion.


Working mode:

  • Monday - Friday: 10:00 - 12:00 and 14:00 - 18:00;
  • Saturday: 10:00 - 19:00;
  • Sunday: 10:00 - 18:00.

The visit is free.

Museum of Fine Arts of Orleans (Musée des Beaux-Arts d "Orléans)

This museum has a rich collection of paintings, prints and drawings from the 15th-20th centuries. Paintings by Tintoretto, Velazquez, Brueghel, Delacroix are the real gems of this museum. Most of the exposition is works of art confiscated from local aristocrats during the French Revolution.


Working mode:

  • Tuesday - Sunday: 10:00 - 18:00;
  • Monday is a day off.

Entrance ticket price: 5 EUR.

Mushroom Museum (Musée de Champignon)

A very interesting museum that tells and shows how mushrooms are grown in France. The museum has a separate part called "Stone and Light" - it tells how fortresses and castles are stone sculptures. There are also finished works that are specially highlighted. Hence the name of this exhibition.


Entrance ticket price: general ticket (Museum of Mushrooms and the exposition "Stone and Light") - 10 EUR for children from 6 to 18 years old, 13 EUR - for adults. Only the mushroom museum - 8 EUR adult, children under 6 years old - free of charge, from 6 to 18 years old - 6 EUR.

parks

National park of the Loire-Anjou and Touraine region(Parc Naturel Régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine) is located between the cities of Angers and Tours. This is a huge park created in 1996. On its territory are the castles of Villandry, Chinon, Langeais, Saumur, Montsoreau. It has a small museum that tells about the nature of the park.


Opening hours: Sunday and Monday - days off, from Tuesday to Saturday - 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00.

neighboring regions

The Loire Valley is surrounded by other regions of France: Ile de France, - Franche-Comté, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes, New Aquitaine (Aquitaine, Limousin and Poitou - Charentes), Normandy and the Lands of the Loire.

Île de France

You can take with you soft goat cheese, which is produced here. It has a complicated name - Sainte-Maur-de-Touraine. It costs from 10 EUR.

How to move around the region

The most enjoyable way to get around the island is by bike. There are bike paths throughout the region. The roads are comfortable, smooth, without potholes and potholes. Rental points are located in all large and small cities. Rental price - from 10 EUR per day.


There are also regional buses that run throughout the region. Price from 10 EUR. You can buy a ticket from the station or online.


Transport rental

You can rent a car in all cities of the region - Orleans, Tours, Amboise. For 30-40 EUR per day, this can be done with a foreign passport and rights valid in Europe. You will need to leave a deposit for the car.

You can compare rental prices.

The roads in the region are good. If you want to visit some castles of the Loire that are not the most popular among tourists, then it is better to lay out the route in advance in the navigator. Even the locals don't always know how to get to them.

Gas stations come across regularly.

Loire Valley - holidays with children

With children, it is quite possible to go on a trip to this region. The castles are also equipped with stands for children, where the life of the inhabitants of the castle and its construction is told in an interactive and exciting way.

Here are a couple of places where you can take your beloved child, in addition to castles:

Cyberzoo (Petting Zoo)

There is one unusual zoo in Orleans that your kids will definitely love! Instead of animals there... robots! It's called cyberzoo. Trunks-springs hang from the ceiling, which vividly react to touch and emotions. The kids are squealing with delight!


Working mode: Wednesday - Sunday - from 14:00 to 19:00. Closed December 25, January 1 and May 1. The first Thursday of each month is open until 20:00.

Entry price: 4 EUR.

Zoo de Beauval

One of the most beautiful zoos in Europe. It is divided into separate zones - the African savannah, an aquarium. Once a day, performances are held with parrots and sea lions. It will take you a whole day to visit it, so arrive early.


Working mode: Monday - Sunday - from 09:00 to 18:00.

Entry price: 26 EUR - adult, 20 EUR - children from 3 to 10 years old.

Bioparc Doué La Fontaine

It is located on the site of former limestone quarries. Therefore, many animals live in caves. For those who love felines, there is a pleasant surprise. The zoo has a leopard canyon, where three species coexist at once - jaguars, snow leopards and tigers.

Laura's castle - architectural structures, in most cases built or significantly rebuilt during the French Renaissance, at a time when French kings lived on the banks of the Great River, its tributaries or near them (XV-XVI centuries). Traditionally, 42 buildings are called Loire castles (although the English Wikipedia mentions 300 castles). The abundance of magnificent architectural and historical monuments in this part of France gave UNESCO the grounds to include the entire vast territory between Sully-sur-Loire (Dep. Loire) and Chalonne-sur-Loire (Maine-et-Loire) in the World Heritage List.

Cozy and calm, despite the active tourist interest, the Loire region is unique both from a historical and architectural point of view. Without a doubt, the Loire Valley is one of the most fertile and well-groomed corners in the world. Connoisseurs of beauty, romance, and just curious travelers must see this triumph of human talent, intelligence and excellent taste.

These places are referred to as the birthplace of ... the French language, because it is here that they speak the purest, most classic French, and as the "gardens of France." The latter is true: the Loire Valley is one of the important wine-growing regions of the country. In addition to vineyards, there are many orchards proper, and asparagus and artichokes are grown directly along the banks of the Loire. But they go to these parts not for artichokes, but for the historical and architectural heritage of the French aristocracy. From the tenth century until the revolution of the late eighteenth century, French nobles erected many buildings in the Loire Valley. The nature of the phenomenon is banal: after the kings, who began to build their residences in these parts, the court nobility was forced to follow. Look at the mansions around the Konstantinovsky Palace on the southern outskirts of St. Petersburg, and marvel at the ability of history to repeat itself. Albeit as a farce.

The first buildings in the Loire Valley were built already in the 10th century with purely defensive purposes, as a rule, at the intersection of water and land routes, at heights from which it is convenient to control the surroundings, and, if necessary, stop the advance of enemy troops.

Five centuries later, the valley was lined with hundreds of castles that rivaled each other in beauty, wealth, and functionality. The steady demand for rich buildings over several centuries attracted prominent architects, artists, landscape designers and builders to the Loire Valley. Suffice it to mention that Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years here. The current Loire Castles perfectly illustrate the architectural and aesthetic principles of the Renaissance and the Age of Enlightenment that followed it. And if we switch to the simple language of travel notes, then the Loire Valley, its towns of Amboise and Blois are one of the most beautiful and interesting places in provincial France and all of Europe. Slowly, stylishly, tasty and gracefully, we would say so if we needed to convey our impressions of visiting the Loire Valley in four words. The French know how to live. In the Loire Valley, you can see that they knew how to live at least six centuries ago.

Which castles should be visited first? How much time do you need in the Loire Valley? Three days and two nights. The most beautiful castles of the Loire are listed below, their brief description is given, some practical information is added.

Castle of Villandry

Surrounded by a wonderful garden. In September, excellent grapes ripen here. The galleries are entwined with vines. You walk in the garden and eat berries. And that evening you dine in the town of Amboise under the walls of another castle, without too much pathos and, if desired, relatively inexpensive. Castles and castle-like estates in these parts are endless. No need to try to memorize and examine everything. Stop your bike or car for a picnic on the banks of a river or stream. See how they know how to live in France. Do not try to repeat anything, but just enjoy it, and come back for another portion of it next year. There will be enough castles for your lifetime, there are three hundred of them in the Loire Valley. You can come here every year. All life. By the way, many people do just that. Here you can endlessly listen to entertaining and instructive "stories from French history." Or you can just walk in the garden and eat grapes.

Chenonceau

47.324909, 1.070276

If Chenonceau Castle didn't impress you, then the Loire Valley is "not your cup of tea". This magnificent structure on the water is designed in such a way that at the first glance at it the visitor will take his breath away. The second most visited (after Versailles) castle in France and the "main" in the Loire Valley, Chenonceau is considered a women's castle, because several famous ladies took part in its fate. The original 13th-century building was rebuilt three centuries later by Catherine Bricone, while her husband fought in Italy. In 1555, the long-term mistress of two kings, Diane de Poitiers, after many tricks, took possession of her beloved castle, but not for long. Five years later, after the ridiculous death of King Henry II accurately predicted by Nostradamus, her main rival, Catherine de Medici, forced Diana to exchange Chenonceau for another famous castle, Chaumont. In the 18th century, the fate of the castle of Chenonceau was in the hands of Louise Dupin, who had a passion for high art and gathered all the beau monde of that time in her salon. Voltaire was a frequent visitor here, and Jean-Jacques Rousseau served for some time as Madame Dupin's secretary. Even if you are not a big fan of museum interiors, there is something to see inside the Chenonceau castle. You should go inside whenever possible. The most beautiful places in the castle are the living room of Louis XIV, a large gallery overlooking the river Cher and the green study of Catherine de Medici. In addition, the castle has a small but convincing collection of paintings: Tintoretto, Veronese, Van Dyck, etc. The garden area also leaves no chance for the visitor to leave quickly. There is a labyrinth of cut bushes, a reconstructed 16th century farm, flower gardens, Catherine's garden, Diana's garden, and so on. The main thing is that there are not too many people around you, on other summer days this happens.

The cost of an adult ticket is 11 euros (2013)

Chaumont

47°28′45″ N sh. 1°10′55″ E d.

Exceptionally beautiful castle. The first building on this site was built already in the X century. One of the representatives of the D'Amboise family, Pierre, who owned the castle, participated in a rebellion against the king, for which the castle was carefully dismantled by order of the king. Revolts and dismantling are commonplace in medieval France. And for the confiscation of private property in favor of the king, no rebellion was required. Immediately after the destruction of the castle, the next representative of the family, Charles d'Amboise, began to rebuild Chaumont, and by 1510 the castle had a look similar to the current one. The castle is exceptionally good due to the harmonious combination of the incongruous: medieval severity and "Renaissance" elegance. In 1560, the castle was bought by Catherine de Medici, the wife of King Henry II. The famous lady was obsessed with astrology, and many soothsayers worked in the Chaumont castle, including Nostradamus himself. A few years later, the Medici forced her longtime rival, Diane de Poitiers, to give her another great castle, Chenonceau, in exchange for Chaumont. Where Diane Poitiers moved to for a while. In the future, the castle often changed owners. Already in 1840, Chaumont was declared a historical monument, and since 1938 it has belonged to the state. It now hosts the annual Garden Festival. The castle is open for visits from 9.30-10.30 to 17-17.30, the entrance costs 5.5 euros (2013). Entrance to the territory is free.

Opening hours:

Monday 10:00 am - 4:15 pm

Tuesday 10:12 am - 4:15 pm

Wednesday 10:12 am - 4:15 pm

Thursday 10:00 am - 4:15 pm

Friday 10:00 am - 4:15 pm

Saturday 10:00 am - 4:15 pm

Sunday 10:00 am - 4:15 pm

Ticket price 9 euros

Amboise

47.4131° N, 0.9858° E

Amboise is not only and not so much the actual royal castle, although the castle in Amboise is good. But no less good is the quiet and cozy town around, and the Chinese pagoda, unexpected in the center of France, and the Clos Luce mansion, in which Leonardo Da Vinci lived and died. Models of some inventions of the great Italian are exhibited in the garden.

The castle was built by King Charles VII in 1492. In the next century, French history was made here: the Huguenot rebellion in 1560 and the verdict that followed the brutally suppressed rebellion, endowing the Huguenots with long-awaited religious freedoms. The rebellion damaged the reputation of the huge castle. The kings left there forever, and during the years of the revolution, Amboise was almost completely destroyed, and partially restored already in the 19th century. What we see now is not even half of the castle of the XVI century.

Opening hours:

The entrance ticket for an adult is 10.5 euros.

Blois

47.5855° N, 1.3310° E

Most of the castle was built in the Renaissance style.

King Louis XII of France, a native of Blois, established his residence here. The small city of Blois thus became the actual capital of the country at the beginning of the 16th century. The choice was justified, since the population of the city and its environs was wholly and completely devoted to the Dukes of Orleans, from whom the king came. Loyalty in those troubled times was valued very highly. In the 15th century, Blois Castle was predominantly Gothic.

During the religious wars, the ubiquitous Catherine de Medici managed to live in the castle, striving to retain power for her children at any cost. With her appearance, the castle, so joyful in the time of Francis I, turned into a nest of intrigues. A century later, it was here that King Louis XIII sent another Medici, Mary, to rest. Mary was the king's mother. This insignificant circumstance did not prevent her from trying to seat her lover on the throne, overthrowing her son-king. However, young Louis was quicker. The maternal genes came into play. And my mother went to decorate the castle of Blois. However, her patience did not last long, and two years later she fled the castle, descending, according to legend, down a rope ladder from one of their upper floors.

A few years later, Louis XIII, tired of all the same endless intrigues, exiles his younger brother Gaston of Orleans to Blois. Gaston did not tempt fate, he lived here from 1634 to 1660 and directed his ebullient energy to the construction of a new building of the castle, which is now called so: the wing of Gaston of Orleans, and with its strict classicism differs markedly from the richly decorated buildings of previous eras.

In the 18th century, the kings left Blois. In 1845, thanks to a large-scale restoration begun by the architect Duban, the castle was restored, this time without adding anything to it.

The castle consists of four parts, enclosed in a square, and is a unique example of the excellent interaction of opposite architectural schools. A real museum of French architecture.

The Francis I wing, especially its famous spiral staircase, is by far the most famous part of the castle, while the Gaston d'Orléans wing, designed around 1635 by François Mansart, is a masterpiece of French classicist architecture. In the oldest, Gothic part of the castle, the magnificent ceremonial Hall of the States General has been preserved, although rebuilt in the 15th century.

Blois is not only a castle, but also a very nice provincial town where it is nice to have a bite to eat, drink a glass of Angevin and take a break. In the warm season, it is very reasonable to spend the night in Blois, because from May to September, in the late evenings at 22.00 or 22.30, an excellent light show is arranged in the city, and the French are great masters in this matter. (See article about Lyon)

Entrance ticket for an adult 9.50 €, combined ticket with a visit to the light show 14.50 €. Discounts for groups of 20 people, children and seniors.

Opening hours:

From 02/01 to 31/03: 9:00-12:30 / 13:30-17:30

From 01/04 to 30/06: from 9:00 to 18:00

From 01/07 to 31/08: 9:00 to 19:00

From 01/09 to 30/09: from 9:00 to 18:30

From 01/10 to 03/11: from 9:00 to 18:00

From 04/11 to 31/12: 9:00-12:30 / 13:30-17:30

Chambord

47.6160°N, 1.5170°E

The largest and, in our opinion, the most beautiful castle on the Loire. At first glance, Chambord seems like some crazy billionaire took a picture out of a children's book or computer game and rebuilt it in stone.

The castle is surrounded by the largest park in Europe.

In 1516, Francis I, King of France since 1515, returned from Italy with Leonardo da Vinci with a desire to create a grand building in the Italian Renaissance style.

The hunting lodge of Francis I in 1519 quickly turned into a huge architectural structure, a new "wonder of the world", designed to immortalize its creator, Francis I, the "architect king". The project reflects the king's two main passions: hunting and architecture. With apparent chaos, there is nothing accidental here. A few figures will best tell about the scale of the building: a 156-meter facade, 426 rooms, 77 stairs, 282 fireplaces and 800 stucco columns. The base of the castle is built in the shape of a Greek cross, like St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, and surprisingly well combined with endless turrets and chimneys designed to surprise the visitor.

The main thing in the castle:

View from the park to the north facade.

Museum of hunting and nature.

French painting collection

Tapestries: The castle's ceilings are high and the tapestries here are unique in size and craftsmanship.

Opening hours:

From 02/01 to 31/03: 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

From 01/04 to 30/09: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

From 01/10 to 31/12: 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

Entrance ticket 11 euros. Discounts apply.

And more about Castle of Villandry

The castle was built in the 16th century, and, unlike other great castles of the Loire, it did not belong to the royal family, but ... to the French Minister of Finance, Jean Le Breton.

Villandry was an avant-garde phenomenon for his time, and is now considered one of the characteristic examples of the so-called "style of Henry the Fourth." This name is synonymous with the French Renaissance. The style is characterized by a combination of Italian influence with French tradition, the use of brick, red stone, white stone and slate, which allows to form a concise and functional whole. A textbook example of this style is the amazing Place des Vosges, the oldest in Paris.

In addition to architecture itself, Jean Le Breton became interested in garden art, and even studied it while being an ambassador in Rome. With the onset of the Renaissance, feudal fortresses give way to elegant castles, gloomy ramparts give way to walls that allow you to admire the surrounding landscape, the closed, utilitarian gardens of the Middle Ages are replaced by decorative gardens, the task of which is to soften the transition between the house and the surrounding landscape. Villandry was no exception to the then fashion. The gardens were laid out at the foot of the castle, overlooking the river Cher, and this was done with unprecedented splendor. For many guests, the gardens of Villandry make an indelible impression, in some way stronger than the castles themselves.

Transfers

If you do not want to rent a car or overpay a travel agency for organizing a trip, do not despair, you can get to the Loire castles on your own.The closest Loire Valley castle to Paris is Blois. It is very easy to get to by public transport from Paris. The train to Blois leaves from the Austerlitz station. A ticket costs from 10 to 26 euros one way.

There is a bus stop at the station square (it is a ring road). He will take you to three castles: Blois, Chambord and Cheverny. You can exit at every castle. Then from Cheverny the bus returns back to the station. From the station to the castle of Blois can be reached on foot. With a bus ticket there is a discount on entrance tickets to castles. From May to September there is a bus from Blois at 9 and 11 o'clock, which takes you to the castles of Chambord, Cheverny, Beauregard. The price of a bus ticket is only 6 euros.


The Loire Valley (Val de la Loire) is one of the most blessed corners of beautiful France. It so happened historically that the dense forests and the unnavigable almost throughout its entire length of the Loire made the central part of the country a true refuge from the wars that so often happened during the fall of the Roman Empire and in the Middle Ages. Even during the Hundred Years War of the XIV-XV centuries. hostilities were relatively weak here, a well-known exception here is the siege of Orleans, during which Jeanne d'Arc was so distinguished. Castles on the Loire were often the refuges of French kings in difficult times for them.

The Royal Castle of Amboise (Chateau Royal D`Amboise) was erected on a high hill above the Loire, not far from the place where at the beginning of the 6th century the historical meeting of the Frankish king Clovis and Alaric, the king of the Visigoths, took place.

The castle is surrounded by the town of the same name, which has long been the capital of the Celtic people of the Turons, who later gave the name of the province of Touraine.

A few minutes of walking along the narrow streets, and suddenly the houses part, and light gray walls appear in front. Above the gate you can see the chapel of Saint-Hubert.

Amboise did not immediately become a royal castle. For a long time it belonged to the lands of the Counts of Anjou, then it became the private property of the Amboise-Chaumont dynasty, and in 1422 it was inherited by Louis, Viscount de Thouars. However, on charges of participating in a conspiracy against the king, the owner of the castle was convicted and deprived of his fortune.
Beginning in 1431, Amboise became part of the royal domain. It was repeatedly stopped by King Charles VII (Charles VII). Then, ceasing to be an exclusively fortified structure, the Amboise castle turned into a royal residence, in connection with this, the city was granted significant privileges.

The castle is quite large, almost the entire hilltop towering above the town is surrounded by protective walls. Previously, numerous outbuildings were probably crowded here, but later the need for them disappeared, and a park was laid out inside the walls.

View from the castle wall of the city, in the direction from which I came.

The beginning of the castle was laid in the deaf Middle Ages. However, almost nothing remains of the early Romanesque buildings. Now Amboise illustrates the transition from the so-called flaming Gothic of the 15th century (mainly the left wing) to the Italian Renaissance of the 16th century (the right wing). In fact, the difference is not too obvious, it is most clearly manifested in the design of the dormer windows.

It is obvious that the castle was repeatedly partially rebuilt, adapting to changing conditions: a change in the tactics of warfare, an increase in the number of the royal court, and an increase in the level of the cultural layer of the soil.

The ramp inside the tower allows riders to climb the upper terraces of the castle without dismounting.

Exit from the tower of the Minorites to the Neapolitan garden.

In France, it is difficult to find reproductions of medieval interiors, even in museums and castles. Amboise is a rare exception here.
Like many other royal or church properties, as well as "noble nests", during the French Revolution, the castle was confiscated and suffered from robberies. A barracks was set up here and even a button factory was equipped. Even worse Amboise had in the era of the First Empire. Then the member of parliament Roger-Ducos, who received the castle as a gift from the Senate of the city of Orleans, having no means to support it, did not find a better solution how to destroy most of Amboise.

Descendants owe some of the surviving interiors and largely restored chambers to one of the later owners of the castle - Louise-Maria-Adelaide de Bourbon Penthièvre - the mother of King Louis Philippe of France. It was she who, from 1815, began to recreate in parts both the castle itself and some of its interiors.

The bedroom of King Henry II (Henri II) with original furniture that stood here in the 16th century. This monarch is best known for his tragic and absurd death in a tournament from the broken spear of the captain of his own guard, who pierced the king's helmet. This story was used by Alexandre Dumas in several novels (in particular, in The Two Dianas). However, there is historical evidence that Henry II was finally brought to the grave by the attempts of a brilliant, according to the aforementioned great French novelist, the doctor Amboise Pare, who was completely reckless at that time, an eye transplant. So that the monarch would not remain crooked, the surgeon tried to “engraft” to him the eye of a certain state criminal instead of the one knocked out with a spear ...

So the kings looked down on their subjects below. :)
By the way, few people know that it was in Amboise that King Louis XI (Louis XI) approved the Order of St. Michael. This happened on August 1, 1469, in defiance of the Spanish-Burgundian Order of the Golden Fleece, hostile to France.

Here you can clearly see the above-mentioned design elements of dormer windows in the form of decorative turrets - pinnacles - a Gothic wing named after Charles VIII (Charles VIII), who was born and died in this castle.
To a large extent, the castle owes its splendor to this king. Literally in love with Amboise, he began the first extensive renovation work. To finance the project, magnificent by the standards of the 15th century, even the tax on salt had to be increased. "He wants to make a city out of his castle!" - the Florentine ambassador could not help exclaiming when he saw the drawings of the future castle in 1493. It was then that the medieval fortress gave way to a huge quadrangular monolith in the shape of a trapezoid.
However, the work was not completed due to the death of Charles VIII. Like the death of Henry II, it also had the character of a tragic accident: on April 7, 1498, the king hit his head on a door jamb (and doors in those years were usually made very low) and died in the evening of the same day. Officially, the cause of death, however, is most often indicated by apoplexy.
On the left side of the photo you can see the balcony railings on which some of the leaders of the so-called Amboise conspiracy were publicly hanged in 1560. The purpose of this conspiracy of the Huguenots was to capture the young king Francis II and isolate him from the influence of the ardent opponent of the Huguenots - the Duke of Guise. The plot was uncovered, and its participants were executed. Only the most famous conspirators were hanged on the lattice of the castle, the rest were drowned in the shallow Loire.

View of the Loire from one of the towers. On the left you can see the pillars of the old bridge over the river, blown up by the Germans during the Second World War.

Heaps of roofs and spiers...

The chapel of Saint-Hubert mentioned above was built in the late 15th century. It is here that the ashes of the great Leonardo da Vinci are buried, who spent the last three years of his life in this corner of France. He was invited to Amboise by King Francis I (Francois I). He presented Leonardo, who did not live well, with a cozy Clos Luce castle, a kilometer from his residence, and paid him a solid monthly allowance. In addition, Francis bought from Leonardo three of his masterpieces brought from Italy, including the famous Mona Lisa.
Due to a long illness, Leonardo no longer painted in Amboise, except that he added a stroke or two to the finished paintings at hand. He was much more interested in laying canals in the Loire Valley; two of his hydrographic drawings with the names of French rivers have survived to this day.

Perhaps the most romantic castle of the Loire Valley, and even Europe, is Chenonceau (Chateau de Chenonceau). Motor transport, like almost everywhere in France, does not reach the castle itself, stopping in a village also named after Chenonceau.

The village itself, however, is unremarkable, except for the abundance of tourists. By the way, in standard one-day tours from Paris, lunch is often arranged here, which is reasonably (from the point of view of the organizers) included in the cost of the entire trip. Even if it is not possible to exclude the price of lunch from the bill, I still advise everyone who comes here to dine on their own, and certainly not where the guides lead. Otherwise, the impression of France, this country with the richest culinary traditions, may suffer greatly.

At the entrance to the estate, you need to cross a long alley, bordered by centuries-old trees.

If you turn right from the alley, you can get to a farm that looks like rich farms of the 16th century.

Now, of course, this is just a tourist site, where young wines are sold to naive tourists, which can be bought in Paris supermarkets two or three times cheaper. :)

Chenonceau is called le Chateau des Dames - Ladies' Castle. He owes this name to a long line of his brilliant owners.

In fact, the castle was originally conceived as a family nest of the Boye family. This family in the 16th century could not boast of a long line of noble ancestors. However, Tom Boye, who received a noble title and became rich in the royal service, decided, as they would say now, on the basis of the old medieval fortress, previously owned by the impoverished Auvergne family of Mark, and the nearby mill to build his castle in the Renaissance style - light and comfortable for living, and not for defense.

In those years, the main tower of the castle, the donjon, was an attribute of any ancient family.
Even then, the castles were rebuilt many times, almost completely changing their appearance, and the proof of antiquity was precisely the donjon, from which the construction of almost any citadel began in the Middle Ages. Entrepreneurial Tom Boye decided to turn a suitably completed mill building into his “ancient ancestral” donjon.

It is the mill that is the main tower of the castle of Chenonceau.
On the oak door of one of the chambers of the castle, you can still read the carved motto of Tom Boye: "If he grows up, I will be remembered." “He” is, of course, the castle itself. However, the seriously ill Tom Boye could not complete the castle; his wife, Catherine Brisone, the first lady of Chenonceau, did it for him.

The second lady was Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of King Henry II, well known from the novels of Alexandre Dumas. As you know, Dumas Père was not only a novelist, but also a fair storyteller, who without a shadow of shame distorted history to please the storylines of his books. In particular, there was little animosity between Diane de Poitiers, the king's official mistress, and Queen Catherine de' Medici. Catherine wisely judged that a smart favorite, who has little interest in power and, moreover, is almost 20 years older than the king, is better than a young and greedy rival. This, of course, does not mean that Henry II did not have affairs on the side of both his wife and his official favorite, but they did not leave any noticeable trace in history.

Diane de Poitiers began to complete the construction of Chenonceau and equip the surrounding area to her liking. However, the castle took its final form a little later. After the death of Henry II, Diana is diplomatically expelled from the castle.
Catherine de Medici had long liked Chenonceau and she, albeit relatively tactfully, but, “remembering” some old debts, took the castle from Diane de Poitiers, giving her the nearby Chaumont castle (Chateau de Chaumont) in return.
Already under Catherine, a gallery leading to the other side of the Sher River was completed, living rooms and halls were completed above the gallery, and not far from the castle, next to the so-called Diana's park, a park was laid out, called Catherine's Park. So, the third lady of Chenonceau, as you might guess, was Catherine de Medici.

The fourth and last bright lady in the history of the castle was the mistress of another French king, Henry IV of Navarre (Henri IV), Gabriella d'Estre. the choice of Henry IV. However, there is no hard evidence that the favorite was poisoned. History, as you know, is often based on circumstantial evidence and assumptions ...
The photo shows part of the preserved interior of the so-called bedroom of the Five Queens. This hall was named after the two daughters and three daughters-in-law of Catherine de Medici.

This gloomy room is the bedroom of Queen Louise of Lorraine. After the assassination of her husband Henry III in 1589 by the monk Jacques Clement (which was done in retaliation for the assassination of the Duke of Guise, sanctioned by the king), the widow retired to the castle of Chenonceau, where she spent the rest of her life in mourning and prayer in voluntary imprisonment until her death in 1601.
According to the royal etiquette of mourning, Louise of Lorraine wore only white clothes all this time, for which she was nicknamed the White Queen. According to her direct instructions, the room was decorated in a mournful and pious manner, that is, so gloomy that it is even strange how the White Queen managed to live in this room for 11 years ... On the fabric wallpaper you can see a very interesting symbol - an inverted cornucopia, from which tears flow, which meant immeasurable sorrow.

Interior view of the gallery, built by order of Catherine de Medici on the pillars of the so-called bridge of Diane de Poitiers, connecting the castle with the other side of the river. This gallery served as a hall for balls, since the dimensions allowed it - the length of the room reaches 60 meters with a width of 6 meters.
During the German occupation of France during the Second World War, this gallery was of great importance, as it connected the castle, which in fact stands on the northern bank of the Cher and is located in the occupied zone, with the southern bank, promising a refuge for those hiding from the Gestapo. By the way, at that time the castle also housed a contact point for local partisans.

Here you can clearly see that Chenonceau, like a bridge, stands on powerful stone pillars over the narrow river Cher. The castle kitchen is very interestingly located - in the huge socles of the first two pillars.

The kitchen was even equipped with its own pier, to which boats approached, delivering supplies to the castle.

Part of the recreated kitchen interiors.

View from the windows of the castle on the garden of Diana da Poitiers.

Orange tree.

Many swans, including black ones, live in the parks.

A quick look at the Chaumont castle mentioned above. His name comes from the words "Mont Chauve" (bald mountain), then it began to sound like "Mont Chaud" or "Chaud Mont" (hot mountain). The castle rises on rocky spurs in the middle of centuries-old forests. In the Middle Ages, there was a fortress here.
This castle was acquired in 1560 after the death of Henry II by Catherine de Medici. As I said, being a widow, she quickly "exchanged" Chaumont for Chenonceau with Diane de Poitiers. Since Chaumont is frankly gloomy, especially against the backdrop of the Ladies' Castle, the favorite of the late king remained here only for a short time.

The road to the last castle included in the trip program passed near the ancient city of Blois. This is very uncharacteristic for France, where all major highways, as a rule, bypass any settlements so as not to create discomfort for local residents.
This place was inhabited many thousands of years ago, back in the Neolithic era. The first settlers drew attention to the high rocky cliff, washed by the waters of the Loire and a small river flowing into it, providing reliable shelter and protection.
From the middle of the tenth century, Blois and its environs became the possession of powerful feudal lords - the counts de Blois, vassals of the king of France, who were also counts of Tours and Chartres, and then of Champagne.

However, the history of Blois is associated mainly with the name of the grandson of Louis of Orleans, who in 1498 became king of France under the name of Louis XII (Louis XII). A native of Blois, this king decided to establish his permanent residence here. Thus, this small town was in fact the capital of the kingdom during the first quarter of the 16th century.
During the reign of Charles d'Orléans, Louis XII and Francis I, the city of Blois experienced a brilliant rise, but after the death of Queen Claude of France (1524) and the brutal defeat of the French in Italy at Pavia (1525), Francis I never returned to Blois, and his the successors stayed here only for a short time.
In the 17th century, some revival came in the city due to the long stay in the castle (1634-1660) of Gaston of Orleans, the younger brother of Louis XIII.
Now Blois is the administrative center of the depot of the Loire and Cher (Loir-et-Cher), and the population of the city is about 50 thousand people.

The last castle in this album is Chambord. It was built at the very beginning of the 16th century as a hunting residence of King Francis I. And now the castle is surrounded by dense and extensive forests by modern French standards. Oh, if only they could see the Far Eastern taiga! :)
Chambord is the embodiment of the Italian Renaissance in stone. There is a common misconception that Leonardo da Vinci also put his ingenious hand to the castle project. As you know, after the capture of Milan, Francis I was lucky to see the architectural masterpieces of Northern Italy, and then he invited the great Leonardo to France. However, although the latter really worked on the project of the castle in 1517, it was never implemented, and Chambord was rebuilt in its current form a little later.