Torcello island in Venice. Venice: Murano Island, Burano, Torcello

Torcello cannot be called a little-visited place... and yet not all tourists come here. This island is located quite far from the main part of Venice, and it takes almost an hour or even more to get here (depending on where in Venice you live/get out from).

This island, however, is interesting, and I think that it is worth visiting if possible. It is located about 5 minutes by vaporetto from Burano (which I already mentioned), so it is logical to combine a trip to Torcello with a trip to Burano. Some people are trying to squeeze Murano into the same route, but I wouldn’t recommend doing this. There is a great risk that you will constantly be in a hurry, afraid of not being on time somewhere.

There are several attractions on Torcello, and they are very unique. Firstly, some tourists love the scenery of Torcello. Secondly, there is the so-called throne of Attila. Thirdly - and this is the most important thing - here is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta with perfectly preserved mosaics from the Byzantine Empire. Fourthly, there is a museum with a rather interesting collection, as well as the beautiful Church of Santa Fosca in its own way.

Landscapes

Torcello looks like a somewhat abandoned island, and this is quite understandable: there is almost no permanent population here anymore. You can see meadows, mini-groves, wastelands and other similar natural objects. It is curious that on the side of the road that runs from the pier to the historical part of the island, nature is fenced off with a special mesh fence - apparently, the Venetians are afraid that tourists will ruin everything. However, the grid is only on one side of the road; on the other side there is a canal, and behind it is again semi-wild nature.

I will add that on Torcello you can find not only semi-wild nature, but also small private gardens.

Throne of Attila

There is a legend that the island of Torcello was visited in the 5th century by one of the leaders of the barbarian tribes, Atilla. On the island there is a piece of rock in the form of a chair - this is supposedly the throne on which Attila once sat and performed his administrative duties.

Of course, no one knows whether this really happened, but tourists loved the piece of rock very much. Someone is always taking pictures on it. With their landing body parts, the tourists polished the seat of the “throne” to perfection. For some reason, the Lonely Planet guidebook states that birds are now sitting on the throne, but, alas, birds very rarely manage to sit on this piece of rock during the daytime. There are sometimes even a queue of tourists there.

Santa Maria Assunta

This is a very old church: it was built in the middle of the 7th century AD. Then, however, it was expanded and rebuilt, so that today’s construction dates mainly from the very beginning of the 11th century. This temple was Byzantine, and therefore it is decorated inside with Byzantine mosaics.

Entrance to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is paid, but I assure you: in this case it is very worth paying. The mosaics are truly amazing. They are made from miniature painted glass pieces; over the past 900 years they have been very well preserved. The main mosaics date from the 12th century; they depict the Madonna and scenes of the Last Judgment. In the adjacent chapel there are other mosaics - with images of saints.

In addition, the cathedral has preserved some other medieval interior elements - in particular, the floors are made of very beautiful multi-colored marble. It is worth paying attention to the iconostasis, as well as the bishop’s throne.

In general, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta has a very special atmosphere, and (in my opinion) the interior here resembles a combination of a museum and a temple. This church is completely different from typical Italian basilicas!

Torcello Museum

The island's museum is housed in two buildings from the 12th and 13th centuries, which are located on the same square; These are like miniature palazzos. Tickets to the museum can be purchased at the ticket office of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The museum's exposition is small, but there are some interesting exhibits from different times, including mosaics, dishes, other household items, as well as works of art (mainly from the Byzantine era, but not only). Quite a lot of wooden statues.

Most likely, one hour will be enough for you to visit both parts of the museum. Someone can probably do it in half an hour (if they run fast). The museum is open until 5 pm and is closed on Mondays. Some major historical exhibits are located right next to the museum, so you can view them for free.

Keep in mind that there are no toilets in the museum or cathedral, but there is a very modern paid toilet not far from the museum. In addition, toilets can be used in Torcello restaurants (of course, if you made a reservation there).

Basilica of Santa Fosca

A very nice church without unnecessary pathos. It is decorated rather modestly, but not primitively; It was built back in the 11th century, but is still in operation today. The entrance is free; The church is open until about half past five - five in the evening.

This is a village inn with several rooms and a restaurant. Ernest Hemingway once lived here. If you wish, you can stay at Locanda Cipriani for a few days (140 euros per night / room with breakfast) or just have lunch here, but keep in mind that the prices are high (perhaps the highest among the restaurants in Torcello).

If you want to have lunch as cheaply as possible, I can recommend the lasagna for 8 euros at Ristorante al Trono di Attila. Yes, lasagna is not at all a typical Venetian dish, but the portion is very large, the dish itself is very filling, and they prepare it decently. If you want more authentic and Venetian dishes, then you can order a plate with local seafood and fish (18 euros, one plate is enough for two) and fish risotto (30 euros for two) at the same Ristorante al Trono di Atilla.

How to get to Torcello

Take vaporetto number 12 from the Fondamente Nove pier (however, you can also take the vaporetto on this route to Murano - but only at the Murano Faro pier). The vaporetto takes about 45 minutes to reach Torcello; The movement interval is from 30 to 60 minutes. As a rule, the final destination is not Torcello, but Burano, but in most cases, after Burano, the vaporetto goes to Venice via Torcello (and therefore it is logical to visit Burano first, and only then Torcello).

How long does it take to visit?

It’s better to count on two hours, and if you’re also going to have lunch on Torcello, then three (by the way, there are 4 restaurants on the island of different price categories). Keep in mind that it takes about 10 minutes to walk from the pier to the historical part of the island (one way).

In addition, it is worth keeping in mind that after 6 pm there is absolutely nothing to see on Torcello (and in the “dark” season - even after 5). The museum closes at 5 p.m., Santa Fosca also closes at about 5 p.m., Santa Maria Assunta closes at 5 p.m. in winter, and at 6 p.m. in summer and September-October. In addition, Ristorante al Trono di Atilla, for example, operates only during lunch and closes at four o'clock in the afternoon; You can dine there only on Friday and Saturday in the summer, and on other days / the rest of the year - only by reservation (minimum for 8 people).

In addition to the historical center, Venice is famous for its islands. Islands are special.

Murano Island- the biggest. Since the 13th century, it has housed craft workshops and factories, as well as famous glass factories. Glass artists create unique glass products every day, famous throughout Europe. Some of them join the collection of the largest Museum of Glass Figures in Venice. Burano Island especially famous for fishing and lace. San Michele Island- island-fortress. Behind the walls of the fortress, which frames the entire island, there used to be a monastery, later a prison, but since 1807 the largest island cemetery in the world has been located here. Lido Island- a resort corner of Venice with beautiful sandy beaches that stretch only 10 km. Prestigious hotels, annual international events, and the Venice Film Festival make the island of Lido an attractive destination for tourists.

Island of Murano.

The island of Murano is the birthplace of Venetian glass. Murano Island - “Little Venice”. Murano is a large island in the Venetian Lagoon, famous for its glass production. The island of Murano is connected to the center of Venice by water taxi (vaporetto) lines. The journey across the expanses of water, which is about 2 km, will take only 10 minutes. The island of Murano has its own “Grand Canal”. On its sides there are buildings - architectural masterpieces, which, reflected in the bluish-emerald surface, create a bizarre “shadow theater” on the surface of the water. The decision of the Venetian authorities to move workshops with hot furnaces outside the city was made in 1291 for the purposes of fire safety and maintaining the secret of Venetian glass production. Glassblowers received great privileges, but were deprived of the right to leave the island, so the secrets of the craft were passed on from generation to generation. Glass production flourished between the 12th and 14th centuries and resumed in the 1860s (second wave). The company Vetri Soffiati Muranesi Cappellin, Venini & C, which created a new direction - products in the Art Nouveau style, was founded in 1921. The Navazio company embodies the spirit of antiquity in the modern achievements of master glassblowers. Currently, the large Formia factory, owned by the Mian family since 1959, is considered a leader in its segment. Silvano Signoretti is the most famous glassblower, bearing the high title of “maestro”. Today Murano glass is an elite product that attracts tourists from all over the world. A huge number of shops and shops with Murano glass, mirrors and chandeliers are everywhere on the island! In Venice itself, only a few workshops have survived, where tourists can see how an artist blows out colorful products before their eyes, and in nearby shops they can buy their favorite souvenir in the form of figurines or sets of jewelry that are perceived as jewelry.

On the island of Murano in the Palazzo Giustiniani there is the Murano Glass Museum, which was created in 1861 (vaporetto stop - Murano Museo). The museum has a collection of glass art from the 15th to 20th centuries. On the other side of the canal stands the Trevisan Palace by architect Andrea Palladio.

The main attractions of the island of Murano:

• The Renaissance church of San Pietro Martire, where the shrines are the altarpiece “Madonna and Child among Saints” (painted by Giovanni Bellini) and the painting above the door “Saint Jerome in the Desert” by Paolo Veronese;
• Cathedral of Santi Maria e Donato, founded in the 7th century AD. and completely rebuilt in the 12th to 14th centuries, with 12th century floor mosaics depicting birds and beasts. The cathedral's free-standing Bell Tower dates back to the 13th century.

Island of Burano.

Burano Island – “The Kingdom of Lace”. On four islands, connected by numerous bridges, the spirit of the Middle Ages has been preserved: low colorful houses; boats moored along water channels; narrow streets forming well-groomed, cheerful courtyards. Fishing on the island of Burano was the domain of men, and women, starting from the 16th century, began to weave lace. Today, the Island of Burano is a treasure trove of unique lace dresses and exquisite Venetian lace that ladies love so much.

Sights of Burano Island:

• Lace Museum (Museo del Merletto);
• Church of St. Martin of the 16th century with the painting “The Crucifixion” by Tiepolo 1725;
• Leaning Church Bell Tower.

Island of Torcello.

Torcello Island is the most beautiful and sparsely populated island in the northern part of the Venetian Lagoon. The island of Torcello is a favorite vacation spot of the Venetians, captured like on a postcard: as if in the fog, the purple expanse of the sea shimmers with blue-green channels piercing the island; It’s as if the lacquered vegetation of the island sparkles with a lively and bizarre shine even from afar.

Attractions of the island of Torcello:

• Cathedral of Santa Fosca;
• Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, founded in 639 AD;
• The famous restaurant "Locando Cipriani", which the writer Hemingway loved to visit;
• Stone throne of Attila.

Shopping in Venice.

The main shopping area of ​​Venice is Mercerie. It stretches from the Rialto Bridge to San Marco Square. Here you can buy souvenirs of Venice: designer dolls, chic stationery, masks made of papier-mâché and more expensive ones made of leather that Casanova himself wore, gifts made of Venetian glass, glasses, as well as inexpensive shoes and bags. The huge five-story Coin department store is considered a shopping center and invites its visitors. Classic Italian shopping is presented in the Venice suburb of Mestre. Donatella Gloria outlets, located on Via Antonio da Mestre, and shopping centers await guests of Venice. Via Garibaldi in Castello - Venice food market (vaporetto station - "Arsenale"). Olive oil (Liguria), balsamic vinegar (Modena), hard parmiggiano reggiano cheese and truffle extracts are a gourmet's dream. The Venice Biennale is the largest cultural event in the art world, taking place every two years. The first Biennale was held in 1895. The main goal of the Biennale is to promote contemporary art through exhibitions in the following cultural fields: architecture, painting, theater, dance, music and cinema. The Venice Film Festival is held annually in the Lido (August-September). The main prize for the winning film is the Golden Lion statuette.

The Venice Islands are also shopping centers.

Venice- a monument to the human will to live and fight against the forces of nature.

In 400, constant destructive raids by barbarians made life on the mainland unbearable. Thousands of people were forced to flee Italy into a swampy lagoon and try to survive among numerous islands surrounded on all sides by water. There was no fresh water, no materials for construction, no land for farming. But all this did not stop the Venetians. They began to settle down, mine salt, trade, develop crafts, build houses, cathedrals and palaces, and over time they became the greatest merchants and opened a unique city to the world - Venice. The military power of naval vessels made it possible not only to defend the city, but also to challenge Constantinople, conquering it in 1204. The heyday of Venice is the 15th century. The famous Venetian carnivals attract the attention of all Europe. From the 16th century, the importance of Venice gradually began to decrease, and then the time of decline came and Venice became a city of entertainment.

Sea levels are constantly rising, and the soil is subsiding: Venice is slowly sinking under water. Since the founding of the city, the water has already risen by 1 meter 80 cm and now exceeds the marble waterproof foundation, causing devastating damage to the main walls of the buildings. The floods of 1966 and 2002 remind people who defy nature of the dominance of the elements. According to scientists, on average the city settles by 15 cm every 100 years. However, due to global warming, the sea is rising much faster. Therefore, Venice may soon become part of the legend, along with the sunken Atlantis. In November 2012, due to prolonged rains, the central part of Venice went under water by 70%!

Residents of Venice know how to dream, dare and move forward towards their goals!

Torcello is a small and now sparsely populated island in the north of the Venetian Lagoon, which, however, was the largest settlement in the area until the 11th century. The first settlement on it was founded in the mid-5th century by residents from the city of Altino, who fled the invasion of the Huns. In the 7th century, a bishop appeared here, and a church was founded to house the relics of the Great Martyr Iliodor, the current patron of the island. At the same time, trade with Constantinople began, leading to a real economic boom for Torcello. In the 10th century, about 10 thousand inhabitants lived on the island, which was several times greater than the population of Venice. Thanks to the presence of salt marshes, local saltworks became the basis of the economy of Torcello and contributed to the development of the island into an important port from which trade with Byzantium was carried out. But the heyday did not last long - already in the 12th century, the Torcello harbor silted up and turned into a swamp, which began to be called “laguna morta” - a dead lagoon. Shipping died down, trade died out, and local residents moved to Venice and Murano. Residential buildings, twelve churches and sixteen cloisters were soon dismantled for the construction of Venetian palaces, and not a trace remained of Torcello’s former power. Today, only about 60 fishing people live on this tiny island.

From the medieval city to the present day, only four buildings have survived, attracting the attention of tourists. These are two small palace-palazzos of the 14th century - Palazzo del Arquivio and Palazzo del Consiglio, which today house museum collections, the Romanesque church of Santa Fosca of the 12th century with a portico in the shape of a Greek cross and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, built in the middle 7th century and rebuilt in the 11th century. The cathedral is notable for its 11th-century baptistery and a series of Byzantine mosaics completed in the 12th century, considered the finest in northern Italy. Another attraction of Torcello is the antique stone chair known as the Throne of Attila - in fact, it has no connection with the powerful king of the Huns, but most likely belonged to the local bishop or podestà. Finally, tourists do not ignore the so-called Devil's Bridge - Ponte del Diavolo.

Locanda Cipriani invented carpaccio and the now traditional Venetian alcoholic cocktail Bellini - peach nectar mixed with white sparkling wine (very tasty!).
Previously, rare tourists wandered onto this island, but now it is quite a popular place, but if you build a route wisely, then there is still a chance of seeing Torcello in its lazy, attractive tranquility, in an atmosphere conducive to contemplation and quiet secret admiration for the remains of its former luxury. After all, this is where Venice was born.

It is best to arrive at Torcello before sunset. Since this is the most remote island, on the same day it is quite possible to have time to explore Burano and, say, (or even Murano - if the Venetian glass is already across your throat, you won’t stay there for long).
Now only 11 people live on the island, but once upon a time (in the 14th century) this island was a strong city with a population of 20 thousand and its own bishop. But everything is changing. A massive outflow of residents to other islands of the Lagoon began after a malaria epidemic; gradually almost all of the island’s buildings fell into disrepair and were dismantled, and their building material was used for the construction of Venetian palaces on other islands. Only the main monuments remained - two ancient basilicas with a campanile and some buildings. One of the basilicas - Santa Maria Assunta - stands out especially because it is the oldest church in Venice (it was founded in the 7th century, the building that we see now remains after another rebuild in 1008), and it preserves wonderful Byzantine mosaics from the 11th century and XII centuries.
And if the question of where the Russian land came from is controversial, then where the Venetian land came from is known more reliably. It was in the spring of 421, the Annunciation is timed to coincide with the founding of the future Venetian Republic. However, historians agree that “in the first half of the 5th century, few of the islanders considered themselves permanent residents of the lagoon” (J. Norwich, “History of the Venetian Republic”). People either fled from the raids of the barbarians, then returned to their homes on the mainland, until they finally realized that life in the lagoon could be established on a permanent basis. Small towns began to emerge, with churches where relics were transferred from the mainland. So, the inhabitants of Altino moved to Torcello with their bishop, taking with them the relics of the martyr Iliodor, when the Lombards finally got them, and other future Venetians moved to other islands - Malamocco, Burano, Grado, etc. (At that time, the main islands of Venice, on which it is now located, were not yet inhabited). Torcello was then the richest and most prosperous settlement. But that was a very long time ago, gradually stagnant water in the lagoon led, as I already mentioned, to an epidemic of malaria, and then the plague, and gradually the island became completely deserted, only fishermen remained, and now, probably, only restaurateurs live here.

In terms of area, Torcello is comparable to Murano, but only a small, inhabited part of it is accessible to tourists.

A small canal leads into the interior of the island from the pier; the water in it does not move.

There were once a lot of cats on Torcello, but there are only a few of them left,
but cats are still revered, looked after, and houses are built for them.

The cats are under the protection of the city organization "Dingo", which rescues stray animals.
She has been caring for colonies of Venetian cats for over forty years.
By the way, there are approximately two thousand wild cats in Venice and the islands,
they are officially recognized as "cultural heritage of Italy".

The Venetians’ special love for cats is not surprising,
Felines are known to be highly respected in Venice.

This bridge on Torcello is unique in that it is one of only two surviving Venetian bridges,
which lack railings (such bridges used to be found everywhere in Venice).
It is called "Ponte del Diavolo", according to legend.

It is not recommended to cross the bridge to the other side, they say it is a closed private area.
However, I passed and did not encounter any obstacles or inscriptions,
You can walk through it calmly, although there’s not much space to walk there.

But from the other bank there are slightly different perspectives on the desert landscapes.

There are abandoned estates.

The view of the residential part of Torcello from that side is good.

And to the oldest Venetian basilica with the campanile
(it is often repaired - alas, but there is a stunning view from there).

Let's return to the general path and reach the center.
Previously there were nine church buildings, but only three remain.
On the left is the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta with mosaics, on the right is the Church of Santa Fosca.

In the open-air courtyard, against the wall of a dilapidated palazzo,
You can admire the various tombstones and plaques.

Some of them are very ancient, even from Roman times.

There is an archaeological museum, but I arrived on Monday and it was closed.
First, let's take a walk along the gallery surrounding the entrance to the Church of Santa Fosca.

Near the church is a bronze statue of Pope John Paul I
(in honor of what it was installed, I didn’t find out,
this pontiff was in power for only 33 days, perhaps he managed to visit Torcello):

Interior of the Church of Santa Fosca (XII century):

Finally, the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady (functions as a museum, but is open on Mondays). Unfortunately, you can’t take photographs inside; usually such prohibitions infuriate me, but in this case I resigned myself - the island is too poor, they need to at least earn money from postcards. (Although, probably, it is not the island itself that earns money, but the city, that is, Venice, or even the state, but it is too beautiful in the basilica and on the island, so I was overcome with complacency). Some idea of ​​mosaics can be obtained from books and rare photographs on the Internet, for example on Panoramio. The head of one apostle can be viewed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
The inside is very light, light, cool and very beautiful, the mosaics shocked me (especially, of course, the Last Judgment - not so much for the craftsmanship as for the development of the plot), it’s not for nothing that art critics (for example, Alpatov) admire them so much. Also in the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, the magnificent marble floors interspersed with Murano glass attract attention. It’s a shame that you can’t take pictures inside, I would have turned around...

Opposite the cathedral is the building of an antique salon.

The entrance is decorated very picturesquely, even in winter it looks good.

(However, on the blessed Italian soil everything looks great in winter).

There is a vineyard adjacent to the antique store,

which is guarded by stone statues (shot through a fence, so the angles are awkward).

But the most exciting experience awaited me ahead.
If you go around the campanile on the left, you will find a path leading into the fields.
The fields are reminiscent of the islanders' former occupation - wool processing.

Along the way there are such, hmm, original ruins of wooden sheds.
The cries of seagulls and other birds are heard louder and louder ahead.

After jumping a little more over the hummocks, I come out to a cliff above the swamps. The sun is setting, the specific smell of rotting vegetation is felt - to the accompaniment of bird hubbub. What is visible ahead? Of course, this is today's Venice. It's hard to believe that the Most Serene One was born here, in these swamps! Its splendor does not fit with this stinking desolation. But nevertheless it is so. Everything has a beginning and an end. It would be sad if the end of this beautiful but steadily sinking city would be as bleak and lonely as this place. One hope is that we will not see this sad end (in recent years, a lot of effort has been spent on strengthening Venice, it has stopped plunging into the abyss of water as quickly as it was before, but the danger still remains, and it is considerable).

Well, it's time to go back. In the next frame you can see a small stone chair on the right, this is the so-called. "Attila's throne" The leader of the Huns, naturally, did not sit here; most likely this was the bishop’s chair. I didn’t take it off separately either; someone is always trying to sit on it for the sake of a good omen (to get married or get married within a year).

A small free-standing column in the courtyard is crowned by a female statue.
This is probably the Mother of God.

The building of the restaurant "Locanda Cipriani" is completely nondescript,
that's why I don't show it. I liked this restaurant much more:

On the way back I meet a robin. She is not afraid of me at all, she spins under my feet.

Chickens graze behind a fence in the courtyard of a residential building.

General view of Torcello from the banks of Burano:

And these beautiful breakers accompany my vaporetto as I return to Venice at sunset.
Goodbye Torcello! I will definitely come back to you.