Mexican jungle. Palenque, Mexico - “travel to Mexico! a Mayan city lost in the jungle!

I continue to write about my solo trip to Mexico. Today I'll tell you about Pyramids of Palenque.

IN Palenque I was traveling, preparing for the incredible tropical heat, but it turned out to be much more pleasant, because for 2 days it was cool, cloudy and very comfortable. The city itself is tiny, but the atmosphere is friendly.
People from all over Mexico travel to Palenque to see the ruins of the Mayan pyramids in the jungle. I’m no exception, so one day I went to conquer ancient buildings.

Honestly, I thought it would be worse, having read about the crowds of tourists and the impossibility of taking even a couple of pictures that would not include strangers. There were a lot of people at the entrance, but they were all mostly organized tourist groups that followed a guide and stopped at every stone, so we were completely alone in many places. It's good that we arrived at 8.30. Oh, and some guy in a nice shirt was following us on our heels.

Pyramids - Group of Temples Templo de las Inscripciones, near which groups of tourists mostly hang out for the first 40 minutes:

The Palace is well preserved. Impressive.

You can go down the stairs underground:

And there are real spacious rooms:

Souvenirs sold on the territory of the ruins of Palenque:

so you can buy yourself an image of some animal:

The Pyramids of Palenque are definitely worth a visit.

They feel very different from the pyramid of Tonina, which I wrote about in this post: but in Palenque there are waterfalls, which, you see, is a very good bonus to the jungle, ancient temples, mountains and lawn grass. Even Thailand came to mind with its waterfalls.

I even found my own little waterfall:

Suspension bridge over the river. It sways so much that I actually got seasick after standing for 5 minutes

The paths between the ruins are very well done

Cost of visiting the Palenque pyramids:

Entrance fee to the park - 27 pesos
Entrance fee to the complex - 57 pesos

How to get to the ruins of Palenque, Mexico:

Collective to the pyramids - 10 pesos one way
The collective can be caught on any stretch of the road from the city to the ruins, or you can approach it at cnr Allende & Av 20 de Noviembre. Minibuses run every 15 minutes from 6am to 6.45pm.

Hotels, accommodation in Palenque, Mexico:

A double room can be found from 250 MXN ($20). We looked at almost all the hotels in the city and settled on Hotel Chan-Kah Centro (Av Juarez, 2). A room with a balcony for 450 MXN ($35) is simply excellent, so here we finally bought beer at OXXO and drank our lives for half the night, looking at the central square.

On weekend evenings, people gather in the square, music plays, people dance and have fun. From the balcony you can hear and see everything perfectly, so you don’t have to walk far.

Only crazy birds scream for 2 hours until sunset, but they are so restless in all cities. It’s good, of course, when you can sit on a tree like this all day, poop on passers-by, and then squeak disgustingly all evening, and no one will do anything to them for it. Eh, this is life!

If you are heading from Palenque further towards and, it is better to book tickets a day or two in advance. We bought it the day before departure, when there were only 4 seats left on the bus (this is very strange for Mexico, you could always buy tickets to any city an hour before departure, but here it is!). Eh, we can already feel that we are approaching Yucatan with its crowds of tourists and expensive housing.

The schedule, availability of seats on the bus and ticket prices are checked on the website

Mayan pyramids of Palenque, Mexico. Jungle, waterfalls and suspension bridge,

- Survival instructor at RGUFK. Historian - history of Central America.

Ancients Temples, villages lost in the jungle, Pyramids and azure beaches of Yucatan.

1st day

Arrival in Cancun, a city that is one of the five best resorts in the world. Transfer to the Caribbean coast to the resort town of Tulum, which is one of the best preserved coastal Mayan cities. Hotel accommodation, rest. Opportunity to swim in the clearest azure bay.

2nd day

Excursion to the ancient Mayan port city of Tulum, which was previously known as Sama, which means “city of dawn”. Acquaintance with the ancient architecture of temples and palaces. First meeting with black spiny-tailed iguanas - one of the most common animals in Yucatan. Transfer to the south of the Yucatan Peninsula to the town of Becan - an archaeological site of the Mayan civilization. Hotel accommodation. We are preparing for the upcoming entry into the jungle.

3rd day

Before going into the jungle, all participants must undergo detailed instructions on the rules of behavior, movement and overnight stay in the tropical forest.

After walking several kilometers through the virgin forest, we settle down for the first night in the wild. We set up tents, make a fire and... start listening to the jungle. The first night will leave few people indifferent.

4th day

While moving through the tropical forest, we get to know the flora and fauna that surround us. Due to the unique nature of Yucatan, the flora and fauna here are strikingly different from other tropical regions. Botanists have counted about 8,000 species of flowering plants, 1,200 different types of butterflies and 600 species here. Our expedition takes place during the dry season, so we don’t have a chance to see a large number of reptiles, but the world of birds will appear before us in all its diversity.

5th day

Having gotten a little used to the flora and fauna around us, it’s time to learn to recognize sources of drinking water and learn to purify it. In most of the Yucatan Peninsula there are no rivers or streams, and water is collected in special karst wells, cenotes, where the ancient Mayans made sacrifices to their gods.

6th day

While in the rainforest, we will constantly be surrounded by vines, many of which are a source of drinking water, but some of which are poisonous. Our guide, a Yucatecan Indian, will show you how to distinguish one from the other.

During our trek through the jungle we will meet fruit trees, the fruits of which have never been delivered to Russia.

7th day

We will devote this day to rest. We will not make the transition, but will devote time to studying the flora and building a shelter. Even though we spend the night in tents, being able to build a roof over our heads from trees, vines and banana leaves using only a machete is a very useful skill that can be useful to a traveler who finds himself in the jungle. And for those who want to tickle their nerves, we will organize a night walk through the jungle, where every sound and rustle will evoke a lot of emotions and unforgettable impressions for a lifetime.

8th day

After covering several kilometers through the jungle, we will reach an Indian village. The houses here are built on small embankments. Their walls are made of reeds coated with clay, and their roofs are covered with banana leaves. Food here is cooked on open fires right in the middle of the home. Most Indians speak only Yucatecan, and only a few understand Spanish. In this village you will take direct part in a rite of passage following the paths of the Mayan Indians. Everyone will have a unique artifact as a keepsake.

9th day

On our way there is a forest of giant ceiba trees, the height of which reaches 50-70 meters in 200 years. They form a continuous ceiling of intertwined branches above the heads of travelers. In Mayan legends, this tree symbolizes the center of the world, its roots go to the underworld, and its crown holds up the sky.

10th day

Having completed another trek through the jungle, we stop for the final overnight stay. Having lit a big fire and prepared a ceremonial dinner of wild boar meat, tortillas, exotic fruits, which smoothly turns into dinner, we discuss the results of our expedition through the tropical forest, share our impressions, and sum up the results.

11th day

In the morning we go to the abandoned Mayan city of Calakmul, the largest open city of this ancient civilization in terms of area. Having climbed its majestic pyramids, rising above the surrounding jungle, we return along the asphalt and by car to Tulum, where we check into a hotel and get ready.

12th day

We spend the entire day in Tulum, relaxing on the beach, enjoying the Caribbean surf and tasting Mexican cuisine. Enchiladas, fajitas, churros, chimichangas, Aztec tartillas will be a wonderful addition to the already vivid impressions of colorful Mexico.

13th day

Early in the morning we set off on a day trip to the most famous Mayan city, Chichen Itza. We will see the Kukulkan pyramid, a stadium for the sacred ball game, and an ancient observatory. According to some researchers, this city personified the center of power of the ancient Indian civilization. In the evening we return to Tulum, where we relax at the hotel.

Many travelers, having read the amazing books of Rudyard Kipling, Sklyarov and Miloslav Stingle, and who are not alien to the spirit of exciting adventures, dream of spending their unforgettable vacation in the heart of a real jungle, shrouded in legends. It is especially attractive to spend your active and fulfilling holiday in the Mexican jungle, where you can enjoy the comfort of civilization surrounded by pristine, beautiful nature.

Fascinating jungle

In the boundless expanses of the jungles of Mexico, majestic tropical trees grow, rare species of animals and birds are found, which tourists could previously only see in pictures in books. Here, flocks of numerous howler monkeys rule, the cry of which can be heard for many kilometers, bright, talkative macaws circle above the heads of travelers, and green iguanas froze on the branches of evergreen trees. The guides, who are real Indians, will give travelers a detailed briefing, in which they will tell them about the rules of conduct in the jungle during movement and overnight stays. The first night in the wild conditions of the tropical forest will not leave anyone indifferent - the jungle sings, rustles and the air is intoxicating with its exotic aromas. About eight thousand flowering plants fill the Mexican jungle, a thousand different species of butterflies circle among the green forests, and a variety of birds ring their voices in the hot air.

Lost in the green flashes of lush vegetation of the jungle, there are ancient tribes living their amazing, unique lives, and some of these tribes are not even aware of the versatility of the world around them, that the world is not limited only to the jungle.

Cities lost in the jungle

It is in Southern Mexico, in the region of the tropical jungle, that the lost cities of the Mayan civilization, which caused so much noise with its prophecies, are hidden.

The largest surviving city of ancient Mayan astronomers, Calakmul is hidden in the pristine rainforest just near the Mexico-Guatemala border. And the famous and magnificent Mayan city of Chichen Itza will present to the attention of the inquisitive traveler remarkable buildings that will amaze his imagination. Tourists will also find strange holes in the ground in the jungle called cenotes. Some cenotes are filled with water to the very brim, and are amazing round lakes.

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Yucatan we are in Campeche.

Campeche- fort city. The historical center, recently renovated, is enclosed within the walls. You can climb the walls in several places. I walk along the wall, the sun blinds me, I lick my lips and feel the salt on them.

A small, nice museum is walled up in one of the walls; it is cool and smells damp. We were allowed in there for a donation. After the coolness of the ancient walls, it is especially difficult to find yourself again under the sun, trampling the narrow, scorched streets, half-empty most of the day. Time flows especially slowly here, and the sun burns mercilessly.

It quickly became dark, an orchestra was playing in the central square, and the main buildings were illuminated. After walking around the city at night and sitting in a cafe on the main square (I don’t recommend it - the prices are inflated, the quality is below average), we take the bus to.

The night on the bus goes by quickly. I am one of that lucky breed of people who manage to sleep in any position, sometimes even contrary to the laws of physics. It's cold on Mexican buses, and passengers bundle up in clothes. I have a sleeping bag with me, and I fall asleep sweetly, climbing into it. If you have to travel by bus, be sure to stock up on a jacket or clothing.

In many cities Mexico company "ADO", buses which is comfortable, but expensive, is a monopolist. ADO has a website where you can view the schedule and prices, as well as buy a ticket for any flight. In Palenque, it competes with three or four offices that sell tickets for simpler buses at half the price. Their offices are scattered throughout the city, but prices do not differ much from each other, as does quality. One of the most popular bus companies is located in the kiosk next to ADO at the exit from Palenque.

Unlike ADO buses? There is no toilet on the local bus. More precisely, it is there, but it doesn’t work well, so the driver is reluctant to let me go there, informing me that I can only go “in a small way.” In many local buses, neglect of this rule leads to a characteristic odor appearing in the cabin. The bus stops near the toilets several times a night, people buy fragrant fast food and coffee in white thermal cups. In terms of travel time, they are not much different from ADO.

Lanterns flicker outside the window. The bus travels south, crossing state lines. Orion's Belt shines above the darkening jungle.

Cloudy, cool, airy. The low jungle retreats, giving way to high tropical forest. After the Cancun heat, the hustle and bustle of the markets and night streets of Merida and the colonial grandeur of Campeche, we are in Palenque. We arrived early in the morning, the bus left us on the outskirts. Walk to the center, past shops opening and people going to work. The weight of the backpack puts pleasant pressure on my shoulders, reminding me that I am free again and all the roads in the world belong to me.

The city that we so dreamed of getting to seemed nondescript to us. The architecture is very modest, but the atmosphere of peace and simplicity that reigns in the city is peaceful and fascinating. There are many people here in national clothes, which look different from the Yucatan ones.

Yucatan Indian women wear a reboso, a woven cape, over a huipil - a white sundress with embroidery - in cool weather. Chiapas has a much colder climate and women here dress accordingly. Indian women wear thick embroidered purple blouses, glossy, made of silk-like material. Typically the blouse has short puffed sleeves. The skirt may be made of thick, coarse cloth wrapped around the body and tied with a belt, or of hide. Indian women wear capes on their shoulders, some with embroidery, others simply woven. Indian women's hair is braided and they have bags of goods or babies behind them.

On the first day, it was decided not to go to the archaeological zone - after a tiring night journey, I wanted peace. We dropped our things off at an inexpensive hotel ($30 for three of us for a private room after we bargained, Hostal San Miguel, Hidalgo 43, Palenque, Mexico) and rested a bit from the road. The hostel has internet and hot water, the rooms are very nice.

To my shame, I was not prepared for the trip, and therefore the abundance of campsites in the vicinity of the city became a discovery for me. We came across a camping area and were surprised how many there were. There are no campsites at all in Cancun; there are few of them in Tulum, since it is more profitable to build expensive eco-bungalows with all the amenities than to rent out bare land for a tent to the unassuming public. All campsites are located outside the city, on the way to the archaeological area. Some Palenque campsites are bustling with life, drums are pounding and hairy people hang hammocks under awnings made of palm leaves. Other campsites are almost abandoned. A minibus runs from the city to the camping area for $2 (tell the driver “Panchan” - the rest of the campsites are within walking distance from it).

The most famous campsite is called Panchan. This is not even a campsite, but several campsites and groups of bungalows fused together. There are two cafes, a laundry and a travel agency. There is hot water in the shower, and cold beer at exorbitant prices in the cafe. Howler monkeys often come to Panchan; you can hear their roar and see monkey families going to feed or spend the night. The walls of the bungalow are so thin that you can hear every sound of the forest.

It's great to fall asleep to the sounds of a tropical night. When you live in a city, you forget what the forest sounds like. Sleeping for the first time in the tropics is scary - there are so many loud, sharp sounds that it seems that at least a tiger is hiding behind every tree. The cry of a howler monkey sounds especially frightening. These small hairy creatures are completely harmless, but their roar makes you want to crawl headlong into your sleeping bag and not leave the tent until dawn.

Apart from camping? a settlement of happy and bad-smelling hippies was discovered. The entrance to the territory is decorated with a sign no trespassing private property, but our friendly faces served us as a pass, and we had a very nice conversation.

Hippies are allowed to live for free, but with the condition that they live in the commune for at least a week and work for the benefit of the public. The work consists of improving the territory that the hippies inherited from the bankrupt owner. On the way from the hippie camp to the environmental control post, a man suddenly materializing from the forest approaches us and offers to buy hallucinogenic mushrooms. He asks for a very small amount for them, but we refuse. The man returns back to the forest and disappears.

Over time, bungalows are reclaiming land from campsites during my time in Mexico. Panchan Almost lost places for tents. A night in your own tent (under a canopy) costs 25-50 pesos per person ($2-4). Those who have a hammock can hang it under the awning for half the price. The cheapest bungalow rental option found was 150 pesos ($12) for a double room. It is always more profitable to pay in local currency (pesos). Entrance to the archaeological area costs approximately $5. If you enter during the day, you will have to pay another $2 to enter the national park. Those who spend the night at remote campsites and pass the entrance and ticket office at night or early in the morning can avoid paying.

On the second day we go to the ruins. Ruins of Palenque were discovered in the 18th century. The city was abandoned long before the arrival of the Spaniards. Reasons include tribal conflicts and natural disasters. As in Chichen Itza, in Palenque there is a brisk trade in souvenirs, and the Indian saleswomen hide from the cameras, offering me to first buy something and only then take photographs.

The legendary Mayan ruler Pakal was buried in one of the buildings. The tomb is now empty - Pacal's remains are in the Anthropological Museum in Mexico City.

Almost all the pyramids can be climbed, which is what people happily do, looking at the preserved stone carvings and fellow citizens below. The Mayans knew how to choose places to build cities. I would like to live in a city where there are so many waterfalls and unexpected turns in the landscape!

To be continued!

Welcome to the ancient Mayan city Palenque!

A pearl of world historical heritage and a famous tourist destination for anyone who wants to get to know the colorful culture of Mexico and its incomparable nature.

It’s not close to getting here if you decide to spend the bulk of your vacation at popular resorts on the east coast. We rented a car and traveled to tourist places on our own.

The city of Palenque is located right in the rainforest. Even when it was discovered by the Spanish in the 18th century, it was lost several more times.

The Indians knew a lot about camouflage (((=

I don’t remember how much the entrance to the reserve cost, but definitely no more than 10 euros.

When you enter the museum, you find yourself in a completely different world!

Ancient ruins, almost untouched jungle, stairs, stream, waterfalls and exotic animals in a huge area!

You can climb many buildings, wander around, touch them and completely immerse yourself in the atmosphere of antiquity.

Not far from the entrance we are greeted by Royal Palace , where the main people lived with their retinue.

You can climb the steep stairs and enter these mansions.

The courtyard is very rich in Mayan images of various subjects and is quite well preserved.

And this is the top view:

By the way, in the background is Temple of the Inscriptions - the only known structure of the Mayan Indians, which was erected as a tomb (like in Egypt). This is the tallest building in the complex.

During the tour you can purchase souvenirs:

And don’t forget to visit a separate Museum zone .

There you will walk with the feeling that this place has not been touched by either restorers or archaeologists.

Everything is as it is.

Ruins, jungle and even a small waterfall !