Trastevere district in Rome: history in every stone. Trastevere area - a corner for connoisseurs of Italian traditions

If you think that Rome is just solid antiquities, museums and architectural masterpieces - you are mistaken. Rome is also a real, lively, not at all ideal, pulsing with life Italy - one that you will not see on the central tourist streets and in pretentious restaurants. To watch the real Italian life of the Romans - go to Trastevere!

And don't forget your camera - there's definitely something to see and photograph here. The unique charm of Trastevere comes from its cheerful and bohemian atmosphere.

A walk through the streets and squares of the Trastevere district gives you the opportunity to look at Rome from the inside: see the real city, feel the cordiality and cheerfulness of its inhabitants. Street performers, cafe and bar patrons, students, artists, shoppers, wine lovers and fine dining flock to Trastevere to soak up its extraordinary atmosphere.

The sights of Trastevere include the Tiber embankment and the Tiber Island. On an elongated stretch of land in the middle of the river, there is an operating hospital, the building of which looks especially impressive in combination with unusual green vegetation.

Every surface here abounds in color, be it the facades of houses or clothes. local residents.

From architectural monuments Trastevere is most interesting basilicas of San Crisogono and St. Mary, the museum "Villa Farnesina" and Semptieva Gate. You can visit these places on the way to the central square. Popular in itself is the Janiculum Hill, which offers a wonderful view of the entire city. Here you can see the church of San Pietro in Montorio with a small snow-white temple Te mpietto in the courtyard. Opens its gates for nature lovers Botanical Garden, and the Museum of Rome in Trastevere will be useful to anyone interested in history. We also recommend that you look into the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere - extraordinary beauty!

The Basilica of St. Mary was built on the site where one of the first churches in Rome was located back in the 3rd century AD. The building was rebuilt many times, and acquired its modern appearance as a campanile bell tower in the 9th century. Both inside and on the facade you will see mosaics depicting Christ surrounded by his apostle disciples and the Virgin Mary. The church itself houses works of art from different eras - from antiquity to the Middle Ages. Not far from the main entrance to the basilica is a small fountain. From a round bowl, water pours out in thin streams into an octagonal pool. Local residents and travelers like to stay near it.

Here you will find houses consisting of several buildings of different heights, and buildings completely entwined with climbing vegetation. In some places, the greenery has entwined the structures so much that natural arches have emerged that connect nearby houses.


Numerous cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops are located on the ground floors of the buildings. Right on the street, under small awnings, tables are set up. It is cozy and simple here, you can always have a bite to eat inexpensively and tasty. In Trastevere, bars, restaurants, boutiques and specialist shops are open until late. All this time, life is in full swing and fills everyone who comes here with a positive charge. Trastevere is the real Rome!

Everything that interests you in Italy and everything you wanted to do in Rome can be done and seen in Trastevere.

How to get there: from railway station Termini (Termini) in the center of Rome there are many buses, the direction is Largo Argentina (written at the top of the bus cab), and from there to Trastevere there are 4 stops on the tram number 8. You can try to walk along the Tiber from the center, about 30-40 minutes on foot.

The ancient Trastevere area, where fishermen, artisans and foreigners lived for many centuries. Despite the influx of tourists in recent years, here you can still enjoy the atmosphere of a medieval city and sit in one of the many trattorias, as well as look into the botanical garden and cross the Tiber along ancient bridges.

Trastavere route on the map - Part 1:

Gianicolo Hill

Title Gianicolo(Monte Gianicolo, Janiculum) comes from the name of the two-faced god Janus, whose sanctuary in ancient Rome was located on the top of this hill. Gianicolo is located on the western bank of the Tiber and is not one of the seven hills of Rome, since it was outside the city walls. Nevertheless, it has always had an important strategic value, and in 1849 Garibaldi's troops fought here with the French during the First War for the unification of Italy. Gianicolo has several monuments in honor of these events.

Janus two-faced

Janus is the two-faced god of doors, entrances and exits, the beginning and end of all things. It is believed that in ancient times he acted as the supreme deity in the Roman pantheon, since his name was traditionally mentioned first when addressing the gods. Janus was the patron saint of travelers and the keeper of the roads, people turned to him who wished success in new endeavors.

In Ovid, the two-faced Janus, as the embodiment of the beginning and the end, is identified with the chaos from which the ordered world arose. Since Janus was also the god of time, counting the days, months and years, the number 300 was inscribed on his right hand, and 65 on the left, which meant the number of days in a year.

Wine, fruits and honey cakes were sacrificed to Janus, and at the beginning of the year - a white bull.

Monastery and Church of Sant'Onofrio

Via del Gianicolo(Via Gianicolo) leads to piazza di SantaOnofrio(Piazza di Sant'Onofrio), where it is located monastery of Sant'Onofrio. The famous Italian poet of the 16th century, Torquato Tasso, author of the poem Jerusalem Liberated, died in this monastery.

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The monastery accommodates a small Tasso Museum(Museo Tassiano), in which the collection of the poet's manuscripts is stored. He himself was buried in the monastery Church of Sant'Onofrio al Gianicolo(Chiesa di Sant'Onofrio al Gianicolo, XV-XVI centuries). In the first chapel of the south nave of the church, the work of Antoniazzo Romano "Annunciation" (XV century) is kept, in the second - "Madonna Loreto" by Annibale Carracci (1604). The altar apse in the lower part is painted by Baldassare Peruzzi, in the upper part - by Pinturicchio.

Further along the picturesque alley Passeggiata del Gianicolo(passeggiata del Gianicolo) you can climb to the top of the Gianicolo hill, from where the panorama of Rome opens.

On the piazza del faro(Piazza del Faro) installed lighthouse Gianicolo (Faro del Gianicolo, 1911), donated to the city by the Italian community of Argentina. Standing next to him monument AniteGaribaldi(Mario Rutelli, 1932), depicted as a warlike horsewoman clutching her son to her chest, and a little further - monument juzeppeGaribaldi(Emilio Gallori, 1895) with the inscription: O Roma, o morte("Either Rome, or death").

  • Tasso Museum
  • Piazza di Sant'Onofrio, 2
  • inspection by prior arrangement
  • 066 82 81 21
Anita Garibaldi

Ana Ribeiro da Silva, better known as Anita Garibaldi (1821–1849), is a native of Brazil, wife and colleague of Giuseppe Garibaldi.

In 1836, Garibaldi was forced to leave Europe and go to the south of Brazil, where he took part in the civil war. There he met Anita, and she became his companion for the next thirteen years. Anita knew how to handle weapons and ride a horse, participated in battles with her husband and bore him four children.

The memory of Anita was so dear to Garibaldi that during the famous meeting with Victor Emmanuel II in 1860, the leader of the Expedition of the Thousand greeted the first ruler of a united Italy, dressed in a gray poncho and scarf of his late wife.

Villa Aurelia

Behind the monuments via Angelo Masina(via Angelo Masina) there is a building pitchforkly Aureliya (Villa Aurelia, XVII century), which housed the headquarters of Garibaldi during the siege of Rome by French troops in 1849. Now the building belongs to the American Academy in Rome.

Passeggiata del Gianicolo leads to gate San- Pancrazio (Porta San Pancrazio, Virginio Vespignani, 1854), decorated with the arms of Pius IX and Urban VIII.

Aqua Paola Fountain

By via Garibaldi(via Garibaldi) you can climb to the top of the Gianicolo hill, where the ancient aquaeduk the time of the emperor Trajan. In the 17th century, by order of Pope Paul V Borghese, the aqueduct was restored, and at the place where it ends, a baroque fountain Aqua- Paola (Fontana dell'Aqua Paola, Flaminio Ponzio, 1612), made in the form of a church facade, from under the three arches of which streams of water beat. Dragons and eagles on the columns are the heraldic symbols of the Borghese family. Initially, the fountain had 5 small pools, but in 1690 Carlo Fontana combined them. Despite the prohibitions, the Romans love to bathe in this fountain.

Church of San Pietro in Montorio

Next viewpoint- belvedere about churches San- pietro- in- Montorio (Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio, 9th century, completely rebuilt at the beginning of the 16th century). Montorio (lat. Mons aureus- "Golden Mountain") - the name of the hill, even more ancient than Gianicolo.

In the altar of the fourth chapel on the right there is a fresco by Giorgio Vasari "The Conversion of Saul", on which you can see autoportpet artist (figure in black on the left). Vasari is best known as the author of "Lives of the most famous painters, sculptors and architects." This five-volume work, first published in 1550, is still an invaluable source of knowledge about the Italian artists of the Renaissance, although the many historical anecdotes that Vasari retells should be treated with great care.

It is believed that it was in this chapel that Beatrice Cenci was buried. two side chapels were painted by the students of Michelangelo.

Tempietto

In the churchyard stands Tempietto(Tempietto, "Temple", 1502), surrounded by sixteen Tuscan columns.

The temple was built on the site where, according to legend, the Apostle Peter was crucified. This work by Donato Bramante is often called the first Renaissance building in Rome. The rounded shape of the building repeats the early chapels (martyrias) built in the places of martyrdom of the first Christians.

Trastevere area

Via Garibaldi leads to Septimius Gate(Porta Settimiana, 1498), built under Pope Alexander VI on the site of an old narrow passage in the Aurelian walls. from them begins via della Lungara(Via della Lungara) and you can clearly see the narrow streets of the picturesque district of Rome - Trastevere (Trastevere, literally "beyond the Tiber"). Traditional, iron-wrapped doors and windows full of flowers with heavy shutters have been preserved here. In the numerous trattorias, you can taste typical Roman cuisine at simple wooden tables.

To the north of the gate is located Gianicolense park(Parco Gianicolense), which adjoins botanical garden(Orto botanico), founded in 1883, after the territory of the Gianicolo slope was transferred to the University of Rome.

Palazzo and Corsini Gallery

In the depths of the Botanical Garden is Palazzo Corsini(Palazzo Corsini, XV century., Restr. 18th century). In 1659-1689, the Swedish Queen Christina lived here, who converted to Catholicism, left the throne and went to live in Rome.

Now the Corsini Palace houses the National Gallery of Ancient Art, known as gallery Corsini (Galleria Corsini). The exhibition includes paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck, Murillo, Caravaggio, Guido Reni and Beato Angelico.

  • Villa and Gallery Corsini
  • Via della Lungara, 10
  • Opening hours: Mon, Wed - Sat 14:00 - 19:30, Sun 8:30 - 19:30. Tue - closed.
  • Last entry 30 minutes before closing.
  • Ticket: €6, reduced €3.50, under 18s free.

Queen Christina

In 1654, Queen Christina of Sweden abdicated. After that, she went to Brussels, where she converted to Catholicism on Christmas Day, and then went to Rome, where a solemn meeting awaited her.

She entered the city through Porta Flaminia - the gate that Bernini decorated her with a coat of arms in honor of this event.

Church of San Bartolomeo

Behind the tower on the right is Church of San Bartolomeo(Chiesa di San Bartolomeo, con. X century, bell tower - end. XII century), built by order of Emperor Otto III on the spot where the temple of Aesculapius was in ancient times. After the flood of 1557, the church was almost completely rebuilt, but an ancient well (12 m deep) from the source of the temple of Aesculapius, decorated with bas-reliefs, was preserved inside. On the bas-relief, facing the altar, is the figure of St. Bartholomew with a knife, a symbol of his martyrdom. The relics of the saint are kept in a porphyry urn.

Fabricio Bridge

Fabricio Bridge(Ponte Fabricio, 62 BC e.) the Romans usually call Bridge of four heads because of two stone steles with the heads of two-faced Janus. On it you can go from the island to the right bank of the Tiber.

Trastevere is a lively and cute, colorful and cheerful area of ​​​​the Eternal City - located across the Tiber, not far from the Vatican. In the labyrinths of the "District", or "Zatiberya", you can observe the daily life of the true Romans. It is worth a look here not only for the sake of museums and basilicas, but also in order to see the "non-tourist" capital of Italy without embellishment and frills, to taste authentic Roman cuisine.

Ivy-covered terracotta houses with wooden shutters and wrought-iron doors look like the backdrop for a period film. Narrow cobbled streets lead to small squares with fountains, many trattorias and cafes with colorful umbrellas that shelter visitors from the rain.

Brief historical background

Long before our era on the right bank of the Tiber existed ancient civilization The Etruscans lived here. Subsequently, foreigners began to settle across the river - Jews and Syrians arriving from afar. The pragmatic Romans willingly accepted anyone who paid taxes and followed their laws. Trastevere has been part of Rome since the 3rd century. Medieval buildings are well preserved here. The Zatiberya society has many faces: poor students, bohemians, artisans, and very wealthy people like romantic quarters.

What to watch?

You can get to the 13th district of the Eternal City if you cross the Tiber along one of the ancient bridges. Fans of walking will spend on the road from Piazza Navona or Piazza Venezia for no more than half an hour, but if you take the tram number 8, then in 15 minutes you will already be there.

From Ponte Palatino, it is a stone's throw to Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 22. At this address you will find one of the attractions - the church dedicated to the Holy Virgin Martyr Cecilia of Rome, the patroness of church music.

From here, go straight along Genovesi Street and after 5 minutes you will find yourself in front of the baroque titular church, where the relics of the Roman martyr Saint Chrysogonus are kept. Basilica di San Crisogono is decorated with golden bas-reliefs, the wooden ceiling is incredibly beautiful, the apse is made according to the sketches of L. Bernini. The address: Piazza Sonnino, 44.

The heart of the area is always crowded. On the steps of the fountain of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, locals rest, street musicians play. Probably your attention will be attracted by the basilica dedicated to Our Lady, pay attention to the magnificent bell tower. The oldest Christian temple in Rome - Santa Maria in Trastevere - was built in the very place where at one time a source appeared from the bowels of the earth, announcing the birth of Christ.

Do not pass by the house of beloved Rafael Fornarina ( Via della Lungara 230), which stores the frescoes of the artist. Entrance € 6. Day off - Sunday. Opening hours from 9-00 to 14-00.

From here, along Via della Scala, no more than 8 minutes to Piazza Sant "Egidio, where the church of the same name is located. The Museum of Rome is now equipped in the building of the former monastery. The Museo di Roma in Trastevere is open daily from 10-00 to 20-00, it is interesting with permanent exhibitions dedicated to history and folklore, and temporary exhibitions.

A wonderful place to relax at the end of a busy day is the oldest Roman Botanical Garden. The address: Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24. Entrance € 8. Medicinal plants, cacti, exotic trees, beeches and ferns grow on a well-groomed territory with excellent infrastructure, there is a rose garden, a Japanese garden, fish ponds, waterfalls, a terrace overlooking the urban landscape. The garden is open to visitors from 9:00 to 18:30 in summer and until 17:30 in winter.

Where to eat?

In Trastevere, life wakes up with the first rays of the sun and boils until late, it is pleasant and inexpensive here. During the day, designer boutiques are open, a flea market is in full swing, specialized stores and antique shops are open. Closer to dusk comes the time of bars, clubs, nightlife, artists come out to the squares and streets, poets read their poems.

Trattorias, cafes and restaurants with inexpensive food of excellent quality can be found literally at every step. Here are a couple of proven establishments.

A real Italian trattoria - a family restaurant with excellent service, excellent Mediterranean cuisine. You will certainly appreciate the design in the style of Italian Provence, admire the pretty patio. The national food is very tasty: oxtails, artichokes, delicious desserts. Average bill € 30.

The address: Via Benedetta, 10.

Home cooking restaurant: homemade spaghetti, excellent carbonara, ravioli with white sauce, luxurious fish dishes, sea bass in foil, and desserts literally melt in your mouth. There is always a friendly atmosphere and large portions. The cost of each dish is from € 12 to € 20. By the way, there is free Wi-Fi on the premises.

The address: Via Della Scala, 34.

Where to stay?

It will not be difficult for tourists who decide to spend a few days in Trastevere to find a good hotel. Here are just a few examples of proven places to stay.

Great spa hotel across from a flea market. The rooms have antique furniture, air conditioning, satellite TV, Wi-Fi, Russian-speaking staff. The wellness center is equipped with a sun terrace, jacuzzi, massage and spa services. Transfers and paid parking are provided. A double room costs from € 178, buffet breakfast € 14 (optional).

The address: Piazza Ippolito Nievo 27.

"Bed + Breakfast" a two-minute walk from the railway station. station are comfortable rooms, brightly decorated in a modern style with a TV and Wi-Fi. In the morning, a light breakfast is served - coffee with croissants, which can be eaten in the room, on the terrace or in the dining room. Double room costs from € 144, breakfast € 5.

The address: Viale di Trastevere 269.

Would you like to spend the night in the building of the former monastery of the 17th century, built in the Baroque style? There is such an opportunity, and with a maximum of modern amenities. You can relax, enjoy great coffee, have breakfast and admire the views of the Eternal City on the terrace. The hotel has a magnificent garden with a patio, parking, a lot of additional services: food delivery to the room, babysitting, laundry, dry-cleaning, transfer. A double room with breakfast included costs from €270 and it's worth it!

The address: Via Garibaldi 27.

The hotel is located in the building of the monastery of the 16th century on the banks of the Tiber. Each room overlooks an Italian patio with orange trees. The rooms have exquisite furniture, terracotta floors, full set modern amenities, including parking, Wi-Fi and satellite TV. The bar serves local wine and snacks. A double room with breakfast included costs from € 197.

The address: Vicolo Del Piede 2.

Trastevere is remarkable not only for its architecture and special atmosphere. This cozy area is within walking distance of the Vatican and the central squares the Italian capital. Walk around Trastevere without a map and a navigator - just relax and admire with an open mind. And then on foot or by public transport you can easily reach the main attractions of Rome.

Last modified: September 22, 2018

Arriving in Rome, many tourists, in order to fully plunge into the life of the Eternal City and feel its energy, tend to get into one of its most colorful and cozy areas - the Trastevere quarter. There are real Roman trattorias serving national cuisine, as well as all kinds of noisy bars and gelaterias selling delicious Roman ice cream. Narrow, cobbled, medieval streets, the aroma of coffee and fresh pastries, linen hanging up and down, facades of red buildings braided with ivy - all this is the legendary Trastevere.

History of Trastevere

The territory on which the Trastevere quarter is located today was inhabited by the Etruscans in ancient times. When she was connected to Rome (c. 625 BC)
During the Republican period, a peasant quarter was located here, where mainly sailors, fishermen and immigrants from the East, in particular Jews and Syrians, lived.

The Trastevere district became an official part of the city under Emperor Augustus, although it was outside the city walls. And only at the end of the 3rd century, during the construction of a new district, the area was included in the city. For a long time, this area remained a priority for the construction of country villas among the nobility. The famous gardens of Caesar, the villa of Clodius, etc. were located here. Numerous archaeological excavations carried out at different times testify to this. To date, the Trastevere dungeons amaze with their secrets, like the whole of Rome itself.

Coat of arms of Trastevere: Golden head of a lion on a red background

Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
It is generally accepted that Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere - one of the first Christian churches in Rome built with official permission. Today, it is the main decoration of the old Roman quarter and one of the most famous sights of Rome. The interior of the basilica is decorated with ancient mosaics and beautiful frescoes. What is the interior decoration of the Alpemps Chapel worth!

The address:PiazzadiSantaMariainTrastevere Opening hours: every day from 7.30 to 21.00

Palace of Saint Calix

On the left of Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere the Palace of St. Calixtus (Palazzo di San Callisto) is located, built, according to legend, on the site of the house of Pope Calixtus I (aka St. Calixtus), who suffered for his religious beliefs during the reign of Emperor Alexander Severus.

The first mention of this structure dates back to the three hundred years of our era, however modern look the building acquired during the reconstructions carried out in the middle of the 15th - early 16th centuries.
For a long time the palace belonged to the Benedictines, at the end of the 19th century - to the military, but in 1907, after another reconstruction, it returned to the ownership of the Holy See. This was due to the efforts of Pope Pius XI, whose coat of arms still adorns the building's main entrance.
Between 1964 and 1967, the Vatican office was located in the Palace of Saint Calixte in Trastevere.

House of the Canons of the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

To the right of the basilica is the so-called house of the canons - the clergy, whose main mission is to accompany the bishops. The building dates back to the first half of the 9th century, but since then it has undergone many modifications, the last of which was a large-scale reconstruction carried out in the 17th century.


In the central part of Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, there is an ordinary, at first glance, fountain. It would seem that there are many such in Rome, but this particular fountain is considered the oldest in Rome!
Locals are sure that it was built during the time of Emperor Augustus in the 1st century BC!!! It is up to everyone to believe them or not, and we refer to documentary sources indicating that the first fountain appeared here in 1450 at the behest of Pope Nicholas V. Perhaps, another fountain built in the era of ancient Rome was located in its place before, but no evidence related to this fact was found.

Basilica of Saint Chrysogonus

Basilica di San Crisogono
One of the oldest Christian churches in Rome is the Basilica of Saint Chrysogon in Trastevere. . The first religious building on this site was built in the 4th century under Pope Sylvester I, but over the following centuries it was rebuilt more than once. The largest reconstruction in the history of the basilica is the 17th century reconstruction, carried out at the behest of the nephew of Pope Paul V, Cardinal Scipione Borghese. His name is immortalized on the facade, and the family coat of arms and heraldic symbols (the eagle and the winged dragon) are often found in the decoration of the basilica.

Address: Piazza di S. Francesco d "Assisi, 88 Opening hours: every day from 7.00 to 13.00; from 14.00 to 19.30

Church of San Pietro in Montorio

Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio
The Church of San Pietro in Montorio in Rome was built on the site of the martyrdom of the Apostle Peter. It was here, according to legend, that the saint was crucified upside down. The construction of the temple and the monastery began in the first half of the 9th century. At different times, the complex belonged to the Benedictines, Celestines, the Order of St. Ambrose and the Franciscans. The buildings that can be seen today on the Janiculum slope were built in the second half of the 15th century at the behest of Pope Sixtus IV Della Rovere.
Interior of the Church of San Pietro in Montorio richly decorated with beautiful works of artists and sculptors of different eras, a special place among which is the work of Pomarancho, Giorgio Vasari, Baldassare Peruzzi, Giulio Mazzoni, Bartolomeo Ammannati, and some others.
Of particular interest is the so-called, located in the inner courtyard of the monastery. The small chapel, built by renowned architect Donato Bramante, is recognized as one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture.

Address: Piazza di S. Pietro in Montorio, 2 Opening hours: every day from 8.00 to 12.00; from 15.00 to 16.00

Church of Santa Maria della Scala

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Scala
This church was built at the turn of the 16th-17th centuries to store the icon of the Virgin. As the legend says, a real miracle happened in one of the houses that used to be located in these places: an icon depicting the Virgin Mary healed a child with congenital deformities.
An interesting feature of the church is the presence of an old pharmacy of the papal court - Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala, established in the 16th century and working until 1954. It was here that for several centuries the monks of the Discalced Carmelite Order made medicinal tinctures, pills and ointments according to their own recipes. To date La Spezia Santa Maria della Scala open to the public as a museum. Here you can see not only the main pharmacy hall, but also a laboratory where medicines were produced, as well as all kinds of devices used by the monks.

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Basilica of Saint Cecilia in Trastevere

Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

A special place among churches of Rome occupies the basilica, consecrated in honor of Saint Cecilia, the patroness of church music, a Christian martyr who was executed because of her religious beliefs in 230.
Inside the temple, or rather under its main altar, there is a marble sculpture of the saint, made by Stefano Maderno in the first half of the 17th century.
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Address: Piazza della Scala, 23 Opening hours: every day from 10.00 to 13.00 and from 16.00 to 17.30

Church of Santa Maria del Orto

Chiesa di Santa Maria dell'Orto
The construction of the Church of Santa Maria del Orto began after a miracle occurred in its place: at the end of the 15th century, an almost completely paralyzed peasant, having prayed at the image of the Virgin, located at the entrance to his garden, was incredibly healed.

Address: Via della Lungara, 230 Opening hours: Mon-Sat from 9.00 to 14.00; day off - Sunday Ticket price: 6 euros

Palazzo Corsini alla Lungara

Palazzo Corsini alla Lungara
Literally a stone's throw from Villa Farnesina is a beautiful palace built at the end of the 15th century. Since 1736, the building and the surrounding gardens were acquired by representatives of the Corsini family, and during the Napoleonic occupation of Rome, Giuseppe Bonaparte, the brother of the legendary commander, lived here.

To date, the palace is state-owned, and its premises are occupied by a library and an art gallery, which presents works by Beato Angelico, Jacopo Bassano, Caravaggio, Rubens, Giuseppe de Rebecca and others.

Address: Via della Lungara, 10 Opening hours: every day from 8.30 to 19.30; day off - Tuesday, December 25, January 1, May 1

Villa Sharra

Villa Sciarra
Green heart of Trastevere, beautiful place, which is loved by the residents of the quarter, despite the fact that in recent years the park has been derelict.

One of the largest and beautiful fountains Rome is located near Porta San Pancrazio, a stone's throw from the Church of San Pietro in Montorio. Fountain del Aqua Paola, nicknamed "Fontanone" (which means "fountain" in Italian) among the locals, was built in 1612 by order of Pope Paul V and designed by Giovanni Fontana and Flaminio Ponzio.

I returned again to the most interesting area of ​​​​Rome - Trastevere. Of course, Trastevere can be described for a long time, it is better to visit it. Who was not in Trastevere- was not in Rome.

This area in ancient Rome was not included in the urban area until the end of the 3rd century, until the Roman emperor Aurelian created the famous Fortress Wall, in which Rome was protected from the invasion of enemies, and only then this area on the right bank of the Tiber became part of the city. Trastevere area famous for its medieval interior - crooked narrow streets with palaces, towers, ancient churches. There are many small shops, tobacco shops, pizzerias and drinking establishments.

Tempting-looking streets diverge from here in all directions. First was on the street Lungaretta(Via della Lungaretta), laid at the beginning of the 16th century by Pope Julius II and serving for three centuries in Trastevere major transportation route.

Along the street are small restaurants where the food is twice as good and cheaper than anywhere else in Rome. Passing next to the camera in their hands, many cast attentive and evaluating glances at me, looking up from their plates. Bon appetit signor and signori!

Street musicians perform in front of restaurants: they perform their numbers and, having put their hats in a circle, they go to the next restaurant. No Italian will ever refuse to give something to artists, just as he will not refuse alms to a beggar.

And here I am again main square quarter. In the center of it is an octagonal fountain with extremely comfortable steps. During the day they are covered with a continuous layer of vacationing tourists, and in the evenings many tourists and locals flock to the square. On Friday and Saturday evenings, the space around the fountain is packed with people no worse than a concert venue, on which, in addition, something is constantly happening: either swallowing swords, or juggling torches, or just local punks quarreling.

Here, not far around the corner, there is: - the cheerful baroque Santa Maria della Scala with a Carmelite pharmacy of the 17th century in a neighboring house.

Near the Trastevere Museum. The exposition of the museum is dedicated to the life of the citizens of Rome in the period from the 18th to the 19th centuries. The museum is located in the building where the Carmelite monastery was located earlier. After the monastery, a Roman commune settled here in 1875, and a sanatorium in 1918. Only in 1970 the building was completely turned into a museum. After restoration work, the museum opened its doors to visitors. Today the museum hosts exhibitions, concerts and tours.

I'm heading towards the church Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (Santa Cecilia in Trastevere). The first church on this site arose in the 5th century, according to legend, on the site of the house of the daughter of a Roman patrician - Cecilia and her husband Valerian, who were martyred under Marcus Aurelius. Cecilia was a young and noble Roman woman who converted to Christianity. For refusing to obey the pagan gods, her husband Valerian was beheaded, and they tried to strangle Cecilia with a ferry in a home steam room. But nothing came of it - Cecilia spent three days in the steam room, singing Christian hymns - later becoming the patroness of music. After she was cut off her head and thrown into the catacombs of San Callisto. The legend says that when the tomb was opened in the Middle Ages, the body was completely intact, only a scar remained on the neck. Pope Urban I buried Cecilia in the catacombs of Saint Callisto, and a church was erected in her honor on the site of Cecilia's house.

And a little further, on the square of Francis of Assisi, there is another remarkable church - San Francesco a Ripa (San Francesco a Ripa), built on the site of a house where St. Francis of Assisi stayed several times.

In the church itself - a cluster of magnificent tombstones; the most impressive is the Rospigliosi Chapel. On the left side of the transept is the last work of Bernini - a statue of the blessed Ludovica Albertoni (1674), a variation on the theme of the much more famous Saint Teresa.

And then I walked just like that, without a goal, enjoying the surrounding atmosphere, pieces of antiquity and modern times. Here every time you discover something new for yourself, you find a side street you haven't been to before, a detail you didn't notice. I invite you with me to a medieval fairy tale...