A fishing hook, although small, is the main part of fishing tackle. But now there are many varieties of hooks. Which one is better and more correct to choose? It all depends on what kind of fish, at what time of year and with what baits you are going to catch.
The most common are the following types of hooks: single, double, triple, with a long or short forearm, straight or curved, with a ring head or a spatula head in various combinations. The hook number (size) is the distance from the shank to the sting, measured in millimeters. The smallest hook is 2.5, the largest is 20, if you don’t take into account very exotic ones for huge fish and special gear.

It’s worth noting right away that big fish are not always caught with a big hook. The type of hook in which the hook is not parallel to the fore-end, but is slightly bent to the side, is more hooky. And one more piece of advice. To make the fishing tackle more sensitive to bites when fishing from the bottom, the sinker is installed no further than 5 cm from the hook.

When fishing with soft vegetable baits, you need a thin and sharp hook. You can check its sharpness this way: put the sting on your fingernail, and if it doesn’t slide off, then the hook is sharp. For fishing with a worm, it is better to use hooks with a long shank, and when using vegetable or sponge baits, it is better to have a short shank. For a light bait, select a light hook, for a dark one, choose a dark hook.

The fishing hook is divided into the following parts:

1. The head is where the hook is attached to the fishing line.
2. Forend - a straight section from the head to the hook.
3. Prying - a rounding from the forearm to the sting. It is conventionally divided into two parts - the forehead and the back of the head.
4. The sting is the pointed tip of a hook. Includes the point itself and the beard.

The hook should be moderately hard, not bend under load, but not fragile. Hooks come with a spatula and a ring at the end of the shank. The length of the forend should exceed the width of the bend by 2 - 2.5 times. This kind of hook is more catchy.

Hook numbering by fish species

It should be noted that at the moment there are two main numberings for hook sizes - Russian (Soviet) and international (Redditch scale). According to our domestic classification, the number is the width of the hook, expressed in millimeters, determined by the distance between the tip and the fore-end.

The international classification is guided by other definitions related to hooks for fly fishing using artificial lures - flies. The basic definition is that the length of the shank of a standard hook is strictly regulated and is twice its width and, accordingly, the standard length of the hook is regulated. But, depending on the size of the fly being tied, the hooks can have different lengths. The Redditch scale defines the standards, and manufacturers indicate on the packaging what the length of this particular hook is, correlated with the standard, that is, how much longer or shorter the hook length is than the standard one and what scale number it corresponds to.

When catching minnows, bleak, char, roach, ruffe, dace, small perch or crucian carp, use hooks No. 2.5 - 4.
For catching rudd, silver bream, roach, crucian carp, podust, perch, roach, and bream, hooks No. 4 - 6 are used.
For larger and stronger perches, carp, tench, bream, ide, burbot and medium-sized carp, hooks No. 6 - 10 are suitable, and for large carp, hooks No. 10 - 14.
Pike is caught with single hooks No. 8 - 12, double hooks No. 7 - 10, triple hooks No. 7 - 8.
To catch pike perch, use hooks No. 8 - 12.
When catching asp with a spinning rod, the bait is equipped with a tee No. 7 - 8.
Catfish are caught on hooks No. 18 - 20 (for a frog), and with live bait, meat - the hook should be even larger.
When fishing with bloodworms, steamed grains of oats, wheat, peas, barley, balls of bread and dough, use hooks No. 2.5 - 4,
Hooks No. 5 - 7 are suitable for caddis flies, pieces of worms, maggots, dragonflies, mayflies, porridge, and dough.
Hooks with a long shank with the same attachments can be used when fishing in fast currents. Hooks No. 8 - 12 with a long shank are suitable for attaching large worms, beetles, crayfish, and live bait.

The most common shapes of hooks

Round hooks. Their bow is almost semicircular. The most famous and popular is the “perfect” type with a short, medium and long forearm and a bent or straight point. The forend ends with a spatula, but there are also options with a ring bent inward (it is better to tie a metal leash). For catching carp, the “perfect” hook is very suitable, the length of the shank of which is twice as long as the width of the hook; for catching predators - hooks with a long shank with a ring bent inward.

Initial shapes of hooks: a - rounded; b - semi-rounded; c - angular

Semi roundedhooks. The transition between the forend and the top of the hook is slightly flattened. The most famous type is the “limerick” with a bent tip; these hooks are usually coated with black or dark brown enamel. The “Italian” option is very popular among amateur fishermen. It has a point bent to the side and is dark brown in color. The semicircular hooks also include the famous “crystal”; such hooks are always flat, without a point bent to the side; color - golden or silver. The silver-colored “crystal” is always somewhat narrower. It is indispensable for catching small fish. The group of semicircular hooks also includes hooks for fishing with an artificial fly.

Angled hooks. They have an angular shape. They are used for catching predatory fish, and large hook sizes are popular. Triple hooks can also have an angular shape.

You can also note a group of hooks of special shapes. These include Kirby and Mackenzie Crystal hooks. The latter is a transitional type between round and semi-circular hooks. Due to its flat shape with a relatively short fore-end and massiveness, it is often used for catching carp.

The forend of all types of hooks ends with a head made in the shape of a ring, a spatula, a thin undercut, a ribbed head. The sting has a conical shape and can be bent inward - towards the fore-end or outward - from the fore-end.

The oldest form of fish hook is considered to be the Aberdeen round shape. In addition to the mentioned form, the Limerick form is also considered the basic one. The common forms Kirby and Crystal are derivatives of the first two.

Every serious fishing brand has a whole series of hooks of various types and shapes with their own names. At the same time, a classification of hooks was made for each method of fishing, peaceful and predatory, sea and freshwater fish, etc.

There are hooks single (single hook), double (double hook, double), triple (three hook, tee, anchor), as well as single bend and double bend, i.e. curved in two planes. In addition, hooks vary in thickness and shank length.
Single hooks are universal: they are equipped with most amateur fishing gear for fishing with natural baits and artificial baits. Double and triple hooks are used mainly for fishing with live bait and for rigging spoons, Devon and artificial fish.

Hook finish and color

Since the main material for producing hooks is carbon steel, which is not resistant to corrosion, the thinnest layer of non-ferrous metal is applied to such products using the galvanic method. Bronzing is most often used, but does not guarantee 100% protection against oxidation. To further protect the product, it is covered with a polymer paint layer on top, and color is also added. A less common method is nickel plating with added color (from silver to black). Considering the durability and reliability of nickel relative to bronze plating, its cost is an order of magnitude higher. Thanks to the thinnest layer of polymer varnish, which fills the pores of black nickel, the surface of the fishing product is perfect. Another option for protecting the product is tin plating.

Color is an important factor that reduces fish suspicion when biting bait, and therefore must match the color of the bait or the bottom of the reservoir. The color of the hook is determined by the anti-corrosion coating, as already mentioned, it is applied by various methods of surface treatment of metals: chrome plating, oxidation, enameling, tinning, silvering, gilding.

How to fix and sharpen a hook

Sometimes a caught fish leaves with a broken hook. This happens if the hook is overheated and fragile. It can be weakened in boiling vegetable oil.
The hooks should be placed in a metal jar, pour a teaspoon of oil into them (even used ones), then take the jar with pliers and hold on the fire until the oil suffuses. From the moment smoke appears, keep hooks No. 2, 3, 4 on the flame for one minute, and No. 5, 6, 8 and larger - for one and a half minutes.
The jar with hooks removed from the fire is placed in water until it cools completely.

Unprotected steel products rust from moisture, and this also applies to fishhooks. No matter how well the hook tip is polished and sharpened, if stored improperly it will still become covered with rust and, therefore, become dull, even if the hook has never been used.

Large hooks can be brought to the desired sharpness as follows. The hook is taken with tweezers and its tip is dipped for some time in a 30-40% solution of nitric acid. After this, rinse with water and use a magnifying glass to determine the result of etching. To obtain the desired degree of sharpening, repeat the operation several times. The finished hook is immersed in a soap solution for a long time. It should be remembered that working with acid requires compliance with safety measures.

But even the majority of new hooks that are sold here - be they Japanese, French, Swedish, Canadian - are foreign consumer goods. Our production is also not happy.

Almost all hooks have hardening and planes in the area of ​​the sting.

That’s why they all need to be corrected and sharpened.

The ideal sharpening shape is an elliptical cone with a slight inclination of the tip of the sting towards the shank of the hook. The hardening must be removed with a diamond-coated file (it is always on sale and is inexpensive). The plane is selected during the sharpening process with a special whetstone and it is used to give the hook tip a taper. It’s easy to make a special whetstone for sharpening hooks yourself. To do this, you need a plate made of steel, or preferably stainless steel, 1 mm thick. It is better to give the plate a trapezoidal shape.

Such a plate is comfortable to hold in your hand and therefore easy to maintain any angle when sharpening. Using “Moment” or “88 N” glue, strips of sandpaper of two, or preferably three, types are glued to the plate on both sides, as shown in the figure.

After processing with a file, the tip of the hook is finished with a block, first on coarse, and then on fine and zero strips of sandpaper. Don't be afraid to sharpen the point from the outside towards the shank of the hook. This only makes the hook more catchy.

To ensure fewer disruptions while fishing, do not forget to at least occasionally sharpen the hook tip with fine sandpaper while fishing.

The sharpness of the hook can be checked by a simple method: if the tip of the product can easily catch on the nail, then the hook is really sharp. In case of poor engagement, and also if it still requires some effort, the hook is blunted.

How to solder hooks.

Double and triple hooks of small sizes, for example No. 2-2.5, are not sold, although they are very necessary for fishing. There is only one way out of this situation: you need to solder them from single hooks.
For soldering, you will need a simple device: cut a piece 50-60 mm long from a hexagonal pencil, remove the writing core, and make shallow slits at the end with a razor blade - across the edge. To prevent the pencil from breaking, it is fastened with thin copper wire. Single hooks (one with an eye, two with cut off eyes for the tee) are inserted into the slots with hooks downwards, aligned and fastened with drops of tin. The double (tee) remains to be cleaned, sharpened - and it is ready.

Homemade doppelganger.

The roach bite is barely noticeable. It is difficult to hook cautious fish when fishing with bread. To avoid mishaps, a small double should be tied to the fishing line.
Before soldering, the ring or spatula of one of the hooks is cut off.^ The hooks are placed on the board, with their tips turned to the sides. Then, sticking the points into the end of the board into previously prepared holes (they can be made with a needle), the hooks are fastened with tin.

No beard needed.
When catching predatory fish with live bait, it is not necessary to use purchased doubles and tees with barbs. They are not inferior to homemade doppelgängers without beards. And they are not difficult to do.
A piece of steel wire approximately 10 cm long is sharpened with a file at both ends, then the wire is shaped into an anchor. At the bend it forms a ring, to which the leash is tied. It is attached to a fishing line. Live bait is put on the double. This way he is less injured and retains mobility for a long time. Flexible steel leads can be used, but it is better to use thin copper wire with several turns.

Homemade double (triple) hook.
You won’t always find a double or triple fishing hook of the right size on sale. But it’s easy to do it yourself. All you need is an ordinary student’s ink eraser. Deep slots are made in it, in which the hook blanks are firmly held during soldering. The forend of the hooks must be tinned and secured with a winding of thin wire before soldering.

How to remove the hook.
To remove a hook from the mouth of a large fish, they usually use a yawner and a fork, which is not very convenient. You can use a simpler device.
It is necessary to cut a tube 15-20 m long from an old bamboo fishing rod. Make a longitudinal cut along the side wall. To release a hook that has been swallowed by a fish, you should pass a fishing line through the cut into the tube, pull it up, and push the tube into the mouth until it reaches the hook. It is enough to apply light pressure and the hook is removed along with the tube.

Is the hook sharp?
The easiest way is to run the sting along your fingernail. It leaves a scratch, if the hook gets stuck in it, it means it’s sharp enough, but if it slides, it’s dull. A perfectly sharpened hook seems to stick to the skin. You can study the condition of the hook in more detail using a magnifying glass, and it’s easier to control sharpening with it.
You only need to point the point from the inside. For this, it is best to have a wedge-shaped carborundum block. It’s a good idea to make a recess along one side of it, and across it on the other. It is convenient to insert a hook into these recesses when sharpening. You can use such a sharpener. A strip measuring 40 X 15 mm is cut out of velvet sandpaper, greased with BF-2 glue on the non-working side, bent in half lengthwise, and inside, closer to the bend, a strip broken off from a matchbox 45 mm long and 2-3 mm wide is inserted. . After this, put it under the press for 12 hours - and the sharpener is ready.

The hook can be fixed.
On fishing hooks of all numbers, the ring is made perpendicular to the plane of the hook. It is not easy to place bait on such a hook, especially with a short shank and wet hands.
The ring can be unrolled by heating it on the flame of a match or burner. The remade hook does not affect the bite, but is baited easier and faster.

We will fix the defect on the hooks.
1. The disadvantage of some fishing hooks is the sharp edge of the end at the ring and its loose connection to the fore-end. The fishing line tied to such a hook, once caught in the gap, is cut off when pulled, and the fish leaves along with the hook. This defect can be eliminated if the joint at the ring is soldered, having previously treated it with pickling acid. The solder will hide the gap and the sharp edge.
For small hooks (No. 2.5-4), the solder also fills the ring. To avoid this, before soldering you need to insert a piece of varnished winding wire into the ring, which is then pulled out.
2. You will also have to use soldering when the hook with a spatula, when landing a large fish, cuts through the knot (or jumps out of it) with which it is tied to the fishing line: as a result, the fish disappears. To prevent this from happening, you need to make a thickening on the hook blade with solder. This will make a small hook even more manageable in your hands when stringing the bait.

Updated hooks.
Fishing hooks come in different types and sizes. But you don’t always find what you need in the store. Meanwhile, any hook can be corrected. Hooks with a long point are less catchy. The fish, having grabbed the bait and felt the prick, immediately throws it out of its mouth. The point of such hooks is shortened by holding the hook in pliers and grinding off the point with a file almost to the barb (hook), then the sides are straightened and the entire sharpening is polished.
A hook with a long shank is not suitable if you use small-sized plant baits. The shank of such a hook must be shortened, then the tip of the remaining part must be heated in a match flame and doubled. You will get something like a “spatula” that needs to be cleaned so that it does not cross the fishing line.
A hook with a short shank is especially good for catching bream, roach and other non-predatory fish.

Storing hooks.
Do not store hooks “in bulk”, in one pile. In addition to the fact that in this case they are inconvenient to use, they become dull and, under certain conditions, may even be damaged.
They should be stored in a special multi-section box. The bottom of the box is covered with foam rubber, lightly soaked in machine oil, into which hooks are inserted according to size and type. When transporting fishing rods, hook them onto the rubber rings placed on the butts of the rods.

Hooks, snap hooks and other fishing accessories will not rust if you add a little starch to the box where they are stored. If rust does appear on the hooks, you need to stick them in soap for a while, and the rust will disappear.

Every fisherman has an empty box of Kyiv hooks. On the side, almost at the very base, below the edge of the lid, a hole of 1 - 1.5 mm is pierced with an awl. Then, having opened the box, the leashes are passed into this hole from the inside and pulled together until the hooks stop in the hole. So, the hooks are in the box, the leashes are outside the “storage chamber”, it is closed with a lid. If a fisherman wants to use a box in which the depth of the lid is equal to the height of the box, then he must make a window in the edge of the lid. For small hooks with a short shank, and the smallest jigs, if there are many of them, the hole should be made not on the side of the box, but in the center of its lid.

stolen from two sites, Kimberly Club AndWikiDot, Dictionaries of knitting terms

Matching sizes for knitting needles and crochet hooks
Crochet hook and needle sizes are measured in different systems: metric, imperial, Canadian, American alphabetic, American numeric, etc. If your hook or knitting needles are numbered in one system, but the model description is compiled for another system, use the tables below, you can easily choose the right size.
Spokes

Metric (mm)	USA	UK/Canada
2	0	14
2,25 or 2.5???	1	13
2,75	2	12
3	-	11
3,25	3	10
3,5	4	-
3,75	5	9
4 or 4.25 ???	6	8
4,5	7	7
5	8	6
5,5	9	5
6	10	4
6,5	10.5	3
7	10.75	2
7,5	-	1
8	11	0
9	13	00
10	15	000
12 or 12.5 ???	17	-
16 or 15.6	19	-
19	35	-
20	36	-
25	50	-

Hook

In the English and American systems, thin steel hooks have separate tables and are called Steel Crochet Hooks:

Metric (mm)	UK/Canada	USA
3,75	-	00 ???
3,25	0	0
3.0	-	00 ???
2,75	1	1
2.5	00	0
2,25	1,5	2
2,1	2	3
2.0	2,5	4
1.95	-	2
1,9	3	5
1.89	-	3
1,8	3,5	6
1.75	2	4
1.7	-	5
1,65	4	7
1.6	-	6
1.5	2.5 or 4.5???	7 or 8???
1,4	5	9
1,3	5,5	10
1.25	3	8
1.15	-	9
1,1	6	11
1.0	4 or 6.5???	10 or 12???
0,85	7	13
0.8	-	11
0.75	5	12 or 14???
0.7	-	13
0.6	6	14

And for a regular Crochet Hooks:

Metric (mm)	UK/Canada	USA(lit.	USA(number)
2	14	-	0 or - ???
2,25	13 or 14???	B	1
2,5	12 or 13???	- or in???	- or 1???
2,75	- or 12???	C	2
3	11	- or with???	- or 2???
3.25	11	D	3
3,5	9 or 10???	E	4
3,75	- or 9???	F	5
4	8	G or -???	6 or???
4.25		- or G???	8
4,5	7	-	7
4.75	7	-	7
5	6	H	8
5,5	5	I	9 or 8???
6	4	J	10
6,5	3	K	10,5
7	2	-	-
8	0	L	11
9	00	M	13
9.5	-	-	-
10	000	N	15
11.5	-	P	-
12.0	17	-	-
15.75	-	Q	-

Hooks: number matching table
The description of any knitted model includes a list of necessary materials and tools. If the model is crocheted, the list of tools indicates the numbers of the hooks that were used for crocheting.
In the Russian tradition, the numbers of the hooks coincide with their thickness. Hook No. 2 is a hook with a thickness of 2 mm. Hook No. 0.75 is a hook with a thickness of 0.75 mm.
In the USA and Great Britain, where the metric system was not used at all until recently, but is now used along with the old units of measurement, the numbering of hooks is fundamentally different. This must be taken into account when starting to work on translation models.
Hooks can be made of different materials: there are metal, wooden, plastic, bone hooks. But most often modern hooks come in two types: steel and aluminum with enamel coating. Thin hooks are made from steel - from 0.5 to 2 mm thick. These hooks are very durable, do not bend or break, and since steel has a high specific gravity, even very thin hooks cannot be called weightless and are pleasant to hold in the hand.
Hooks 2 mm and thicker should be made of a lighter material, such as aluminum. To ensure smoothness, durability and to prevent the material from deteriorating, they are coated with a layer of enamel.
In English-language descriptions, aluminum hooks are simply called crochet hooks (crochet hooks) and are distinguished by numbers, designated in the American tradition by a letter and a number in brackets (or through a slash). The farther a letter is from the beginning of the alphabet (and the larger the corresponding number), the thicker hook.
Steel hooks are called steel crochet hooks (steel crochet hooks) and their numbers are indicated by numbers only. The larger the number indicating the number, the hook thinner.
The descriptions of most of the models presented on our website were published in the USA, so you usually need to rely on the American designation system.
An approximate table of correspondence between the numbers of steel and aluminum hooks in the American, English and Russian numbering systems.

	Aluminum hooks						Steel hooks
	USA		G.B.		RUS- mm		USA		G.B.		RUS- mm
	-		14		2		00		-		3.5
	B/1		13, 12		2.5, 2.75		0		0		3.25
	C/2		12, 11		2.75, 3		1		1		2.75
	D/4		10		3.25		2		1.5		2.25
	E/4		9		3.5		3		2		2.1
	F/5		8		3.75, 4		4		2.5		2.0
	G/6		7		4.25, 4.5		5		3		1.9
	H/8		6		4.75, 5		6		3.5		1.8
	I/9		5		5.5		7		4		1.65
	J/10		4		6		8		4.5		1.5
	K/10.5		2		6.57		9		5		1.4
	-		-		7.5		10		5.5		1.3
	L/11		-		8		11		6		1.1
	M/13		-		9		12		6.5		1.0
	N/15		-		10		13		7		0.85
	P/16		-		15		14		-		0.75
	Q		-		16		-		-
	S		-		19		-		-

How can you determine what hook size you have?

Take a close look at your hook. There is a stamp on it indicating the diameter of its head

The thicker hook, the higher this figure. That is, the diameter of its head in mm (hook number) is the thickness of the hook.

On hooks made in Russia, the number coincides with its thickness (hook No. 3 is a hook with a thickness of 3 mm), since a unified hook numbering system is used. In other countries, for example, Japan, USA, Great Britain, the numbering is different.

Below is the correspondence table.

Japanese classification of hooks

Regular hooks

Japanese size

7.5/0

10/0

7mm

8mm

Size in mm

Thin hooks

Japanese size
Size in mm	1.75		1.25			0.75		0. 5

You can also determine the hook size yourself. To do this, use one of the methods listed below:

• Vernier caliper- this is the most accurate determination of size, especially if the caliper is electronic.
• Paper puncture- approximate determination of hook size. The paper is pierced with the head of the hook, and then the diameter of the puncture is measured with a ruler.
• Run sample- you need to knit several samples with a light thread of different hook sizes; determine the hook that is suitable for you based on the knitting density.

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Numbers of fishing hooks and their sizes

Different types of hooks are used for different fishing conditions. The hook number is its main characteristic. However, the concept of “number” is not the same for different manufacturers. Today there are several classifications of fishing hooks. Fishermen mainly operate international and Russian. But there are also Finnish and Japanese. Firms from these countries adhere to the international classification on imported models, but use their own numbering for domestic consumption.

There is also a Chinese classification. But it is difficult to systematize and compare with the international one. It's easier to take measurements with a ruler.

Classification of fishing hooks

According to the Russian classification, the hook number indicates the distance between the sting and the fore-end. If it, for example, is 5 mm, then the hook number will be fifth. This is the simplest numbering system. It also takes into account the thickness of the wire and the length of the entire hook. If, for example, on a pack of hooks there is the following inscription: No. 3—0.1—6, then this means that the hooks have the third number, they are made of wire 0.1 mm thick and have a total length of 6 mm.

Thus, according to Russian numbering, the higher the hook number, the larger it is. The opposite situation is in international numbering. In it, the size of a fishing hook does not reflect the distance from the sting to the shank. The number is tied to the length of the forend. But not directly, but with a difference of one unit. For example, hook No. 12 has a shank length of 11 mm. The higher the hook number according to international numbering, the smaller it is.

In general, the numbering of hooks was introduced by the English company Partridge of Redditch. Since then, hooks have been classified according to the Redditch scale. Many hook manufacturers indicate that their numbering corresponds to this scale.

On packages of hooks there are sometimes inscriptions such as 4X short shank or 6X long shank. These hooks have an elongated or shortened shank. The number indicates how much larger or smaller the handguard is. For example, a hook designated #12 2X short has the same shank length as a #14 hook. This classification is usually indicated for those who want to buy fishing hooks for fishing with artificial flies. Typically, such attachments are accompanied by optimal hook models with the above parameters.

For example, for tying a grasshopper, hooks with numbers No. 12 - No. 10 or 2X long No. 14 are suitable.

Fishing hook sizes

Many fishermen will find this table useful.

In it you can find out how fishing hooks of different numbers relate to different classifications. The same numbering systems are used for double and treble hooks. If you take hooks from well-known manufacturers, then on the package you can read information about the diameter of the wire. You can also read for which type of fishing it is better to use hooks and for which fish.

Many manufacturers give sizes of fishing hooks at their own discretion. Therefore, if we take products from different manufacturers with different numbers for comparison, we will find that the distances from the tip to the forend are different. Experienced fishermen prefer products from well-known companies, and they already know that hooks from Ovner with No. 14 differ from hooks from Mustad with the same number.

How to choose and buy fishing hooks?

The main elements and indicators of any fishing hook are the sting, barb, wire and bend size. A small hook does not always lead to good hooking. When fishing, you need to try different types and sizes. For example, during feeder fishing, it happens that bream and large bream are better hooked on hooks No. 12, and not on No. 14 or No. 16. When the fish is capricious, it often spits out the bait with the hook after the first bites. Small hooks with a straight bend often fly out of the mouth without catching the lip, while larger ones are hooked. Moreover, they are often caught at the edge of the lip. Therefore, you should not take a stereotypical approach to fishing. If you see that the bites are sluggish, short and there are no serifs, then try placing larger models. Maybe you will increase your chances of catching fish.

Experienced fishermen know that in warm weather, fish can be caught well with larger hooks. They hold fish better and are more reliable when landing large specimens. For roach on the feeder, models No. 12-14 are suitable, for bream and large crucian carp - No. 10 and No. 8, for carp and carp No. 4 and No. 6.

In cool weather, small models are used - from No. 14 to No. 22. In general, when fishing you should have different hooks. The best option is to choose several series of hooks and buy models with numbers from 10 to 20 at least. The larger your collection with different numbers of hooks, the more likely you are to see bites from sluggish fish.

Before you buy fishing hooks, pay attention to the thickness of the wire from which they are made. For example, for fishing with bloodworms, it is better to use thin hooks No. 16-20 with a diameter of up to 0.3 mm. They are often red in color and the package indicates that they are intended for attaching bloodworms:

Larger hooks No. 4 - 10 with a long shank are suitable for the worm. It is convenient to string several worms on them and form bunches. Such models are usually designated as "Worm".

Models with long shanks are excellent for baiting bait and large worms when fishing for bream. Such hooks are convenient for catching greedy fish, which often swallow the bait deeply. In such cases, it will be easier to remove a hook with a long shank.

Hooks for carp fishing usually have a round shape, a short shank and are adapted for large vegetable baits: corn, peas, potatoes, dough, etc. The wire thickness in such models is from 1 mm. You can often find the word “Carp” on packs.

Particular attention should be paid to the hook tip. For good hooks, it has a conical shape, and its length is 3-4 times the thickness of the wire. The sting may be slightly bent to the side or concave inward.

The sting of carp hooks is most often bent inward, as in the photo. Usually the carp swallows the bait well and such hooks hold it well when fishing. Such models do not have ideal grip, but this is not necessary when fishing for carp.

Hooks with a straight tip, on the contrary, hook fish well, but hold them worse when fishing.

conclusions

Fishing hooks from well-known companies most often have international numbering. Therefore, when purchasing fishing hooks, you should carefully inspect each series and pay attention to all the characteristics. You can even use a ruler to measure its length and the distance between the tip and the fore-end.

It’s good to create sets for different fishing conditions and methods, baits and for different fish. This way, for each case you will have the right hooks, successfully tested on previous fishing trips.

They will allow you to purchase any at competitive prices!

To become a real fisherman and learn how to make the right choice.

The choice of hook is very important in the fishing process - it will help you not to be left without a catch. In this regard, all the characteristics of this product should be taken into account so that it is as invisible as possible to the fish, but at the same time allows the bait to emit odor or vibrations.

Types of hooks

On sale today you can find a large number of these gears, which will differ from each other in size, shape, color, material of manufacture, and functions. The last point remains unclear to most amateur fishermen, but everything here is quite simple.

Each hook is designed for a specific type of fishing:

Each product has one or more undershirts, so there is also a certain classification here:

• Single;
• Double;
• Triple;
• Chertverniki;
• Fivers.

However, the last two types are quite problematic to find, since they are not particularly popular due to their low efficiency. According to their purpose, hooks also come in the following types:

1. Catfish;
2. Cyprinidae;
3. Wobblins;
4. Fly fishing.

The line is secured to the hooks using a special spatula or eyelet, and products with an eyelet began to be produced not too long ago - about a hundred years ago; before that, fishermen used hooks exclusively with a spatula.

The hooks on the fore-end have special barbs that make it possible to strengthen the fixation of biting fish, but such products should not be abused. In particular, it is not advisable to catch trophy specimens on a hook with a large shank, as they will be scared and will not take the bait.

It is very important to pay attention to the material from which such gear is made. In most cases, they are made from ordinary hardened steel. However, they are quite sensitive to the occurrence of corrosion processes. As a result, they last literally for one season, after which they become covered with a thick layer of rust and become fragile. Stainless steel gear is much more reliable and durable.

Dimensions

When choosing a fishing hook, it is advisable to adopt the principle of numbering this element of gear. In our country, numbering from 2.5 to 16 mm has been in effect for several decades. Hooks with fractional sizes, for example, 2.5 or 4.5 mm, were also marked up to 9 mm.

All other products were numbered in the form of integers, and this indicator indicated the distance at which the forearm and sting were removed from each other. Not too long ago, an international classification was developed.

It is called the Reddic scale:

International numbering	Russian numbering	Hook width in millimeters
		international	Russian
24	–	1,7	–
22	–	2	–
20	–	2,2	–
19	–	2,4	–
18	2,5	2,6	2,5
17	3	3	3
16	–	3,2	–
15	3,5	3,4	3,5
14	–	3,6	–
13	4	4	4
12	–	4,4	–
11	4,5	4,6	4,5
10	5	5	5
9	–	5,5	–
8	6	6	6
7	–	6,5	–
6	7	7	7
5	–	7,5	–
4	8	8	8
3	–	8,5	–
2	–	9	–
1	10	10	10
1/0	12	12	12
2/0	14	14	14
3/0	16	16	16

Determining the size

Every novice angler should be well versed in the gradation of this element of gear. The package with the hook must contain encrypted information regarding all the data that will be needed in order to make an informed choice. This is a set of alphabetic and numeric characters. If you know what each of them will mean, then you can easily determine how long the hook is, how thick its shank and width are.

It was experimentally determined that the most universal are numbers 5 and 6

The marking begins with Roman numerals, which indicate the following information:

• I – single hook, equipped with a spatula and having a single bend;
• II – single, having a spatula and a single bend;
• III – single, the fishing line on which is attached through a spatula and has a double bend;
• IV – single, having a ring and a double bend.

The next number indicates the width of the hook in millimeters. The last numerical value indicates how long the forend is.

It is worth noting that stores selling fishing gear have in their assortment not only domestic, but also imported products. Their quality is directly dependent on which company manufactured the equipment.

In the domestic numbering of hooks, the smallest one is the one numbered 2.5. Amateur fishermen nicknamed it “swallow”. Its size is small, and it looks quite elegant. Suitable for fish with a small mouth, usually used for flies, maggots and other small baits.

To catch fish of larger sizes, as well as for experimenting with baits, you can use hooks with numbers 3 and 4. However, it was experimentally determined that numbers 5 and 6 are the most universal.

You can catch perch, small pike, carp, large crucian carp, bream and so on. For trophy specimens, even larger products will be needed - carp, grass carp and other large species are already caught with them. Catfish will require the use of only large hooks - the largest that can be found on sale.

Specific choice

To catch wary fish, you can try using hooks of different colors, but at the same time they are taken to match the color of the bait

Small fish do not bite too often, but in most cases the bites are quite sharp and short-lived, when they have time to not only swallow the bait very deeply, but also spit it out, as a result of which the float sharply goes under the water, and then returns to its original position again .

In this regard, for species such as rudd, roach, bleak, and sometimes white bream, it is best to use hooks with an extended shank and a side bend. The last element of the design is designed to prevent the fish from jumping off after a bite, and they are also quite easy to pull out of the fish’s mouth.

You need to catch small fish quickly, as the school moves from one place to another. Hooks numbered 14 and 18 are suitable here.

If the fish bite is not too active or is not observed at all, then it is best to put a smaller hook on the tackle so that it is not too noticeable. In addition, the fish are in most cases very cautious, so the hook should be camouflaged with bait. Select a hook whose shank will be minimal and light in weight.

In principle, to catch cautious fish, you can try using hooks of different colors, but at the same time they are taken to match the color of the bait. If the fish is large, then the bait on the hook should also be larger. They also take a large hook, which has an increased bend of the tip and a rather short fore-end.

With the help of this tackle, the fish will sit tighter and stay on it well. In this regard, for fish such as ide, bream, chub or large carp, you should try to catch them on hooks with numbers from 10 to 16.

When going after a powerful fish, quite serious loads are created on both the hook and the fishing line along with the rod. Therefore, it is necessary to select large products made of thick wire. In principle, in this case there are no special requirements for the shape of the hook, the main thing is that the level of its strength is as high as possible.