Krasnovodsk latest videos. Ferry crossing Turkmenbashi-Baku
The city of Krasnovodsk owes its appearance to Russian sailors, namely the Russian expedition, led by Lieutenant Colonel Nikolai Grigoryevich Stoletov. It happened in 1869, as a result of the journey of Russian sailors, the purpose of which was to choose a place on the shore of the Caspian Sea for the future city. However, due to a strong storm that scattered all three ships that were part of the expedition over the sea, the time of their arrival in the bay of the future city was significantly different. Thus, the first vessel landed on 31 October and the last on 6 November. In this regard, disputes arise as to when exactly the city of Krasnovodsk Turkmenistan was founded. And, despite the fact that in 1993 the city was renamed Turkmenbashi, for many it has always remained Krasnovodsk.
The choice of the city's founding site
The choice of the territory on which the city was built was not accidental, since the bay was the most comfortable for people's lives. This was due, first of all, to the fact that the water in it did not freeze even in the winter season, and besides, it was protected from the winds. Therefore, it was the wild coast of the bay that became the site for the construction of the Factoria fortress and the fortified fort. 
Today there is a local museum on the site of the fort. This place was explored back in the time of Peter I, and meanwhile, Krasnovodsk is far from the only capital of the Central Asian states, which was founded by the Russians, who occupied the territories in those days.
So, after the Russian sailors landed on the shore, they systematically extended their influence on the development of trade with local residents, as well as the culture of relations with them. In addition, they undertook the rebuilding of settlements, which today, among the many new buildings of Turkmenbashi, attract the attention of tourists.
Modern Turkmenbashi
Unfortunately, very few architectural structures founded in the distant past have survived to this day. The reason for this may be the devastating effects of the wars that also affected this glorious city, or insufficient attention from the people who inhabit it - it is difficult to judge. However, despite the fact that time has made its own adjustments to the architecture of the city, it still remains interesting from a historical and cultural point of view. In addition, due to the fact that Turkmenbashi has every chance to become a tourist center of this country, the relevance of its future is coming to the fore. Of course, the absolute truth is the rule regarding the interconnectedness of the past and the future, as well as the dependence of the future on the past. In the context of this rule, it is important to remember history and respect its monuments. And there are plenty of them in this city. According to rather ambitious forecasts, Turkmenbashi can reach the status of Antalya, and perhaps even surpass it.
Despite the fact that many historical monuments are of great interest to tourists, their number is gradually decreasing. Alas, this is how the world works, and it is quite natural that, as a tribute to the times, the territories of the capital of Turkmenistan, where the ruins of the old city were located until recently, are being built up with modern buildings and institutions that meet the requirements of the new time. And in this regard, there will certainly be supporters of leaving inviolable historical places cities and ensure their integrity as a cultural asset of the country. At the same time, many will certainly support the government's initiatives aimed at updating the city's infrastructure and raising its level of comfort to a modern one.
Transport links of Turkmenbashi
A prerequisite for the development of any city is the availability of a transport support system. 
In this matter, Turkmenbashi is a well-to-do city, since there is a railway station, an airport, and a sea trade port on its territory. The architecture of the station deserves special attention, which is executed in the Moorish style and is one of the most outstanding in the country. auspicious geographical location the city contributed to the development of the Sea Trade Port of Turkmenbashi. Today the port has more than 10 marinas. The administrative department of the port "Turkmendenizderyayollary", which is designed in the form of a ship, has recently become a new decoration of the city. The variety of routes of Turkmen ships has increased significantly recently, now they go to the sea gates of Gibraltar. Also, a very thorough reconstruction touched the port itself. The growing popularity of transportation by sea has forced the port authorities to upgrade the port equipment, and first of all, the cranes used for loading. The following equipment is in the arsenal of the port:
- German Liebherr truck crane, the control of this crane is fully computerized, and its lifting capacity is 500 tons;
- autocars "Komatsu";
- trucks "Mazmany";
- Kalmar forklifts
It is expected that after the construction of the new port, which will meet the highest international standards, it will open its doors to numerous foreign ships, tourist cruise liners, yachts and other vessels.
Also, it should be noted that in the construction huge complex(Palace of Culture of Oil Workers) in 1951, captured Japanese were involved.
Undoubtedly, the main asset of the city of Krasnovodsk Turkmenistan is the sea, which attracts numerous armies of tourists. Turkmenistan Krasnovodsk has been gaining popularity lately in many respects thanks to it. And in the event that there is a question of choosing where to spend a vacation with your family, you should consider visiting this famous city that will impress even sophisticated tourists.
Video: Krasnovodsk at present
Excursion around the city of Turkmenbashi.
“I demand from my city: asphalt, sewerage and hot water. As for culture, I myself am cultured "
Karl Kraus.
This November marks the 150th anniversary of the founding of the city of Krasnovodsk (now Turkmenbashi). Krasnovodsk is the oldest modern city in Turkmenistan.
The history of the city is inextricably linked with the history of Russian-Turkmen relations, which had both white and black pages.
The first Russian military-scientific expeditions to the eastern coast of the Caspian Sea were organized as early as the beginning of the 18th century, in particular three times in the period from 1715 to 1717.
In 1716 on east coast Three fortresses with small garrisons were built in the Caspian Sea, one of which was located in the Kizyl-Su Bay.
In 1717, a large expedition was organized under the leadership of Bekovich-Cherkassky.
Up to 3 thousand people, 6 thousand horses, a large number of camels took part in it. Despite the fact that Bekovich-Cherkassky sent ambassadors to the Khan of Khiva Shirgazi, that he was the ambassador of the Russian state, the latter attacked him 120 kilometers from Khiva.
As a result of the fighting, the Khivans suffered heavy losses, despite their multiple superiority. Russian troops were better armed and disciplined. Realizing that it would not be possible to win in a fair fight, the Khan of Khiva resorted to cunning.
He expressed regret about what had happened, and invited Bekovich-Cherkassky and his entire detachment to visit. The detachment was divided into five parts. Soon they were dealt with separately.
Bekovich-Cherkassky himself was beheaded. So sadly ended the first major Russian expedition to Central Asia. The events of 1717 did not become a big obstacle to the further expansion of relations between the Turkmens and Russia.
In 1719 and 1726 new expeditions were organized, as a result of which the first scientific map of the Caspian Sea was created. In the second half of the 18th century, the Russian state sent expeditions to the Turkmen coast of the Caspian Sea several times.
In 1773 and in 1781, expeditions led by S. Gmelin and Count M. Voinovich were on Cheleken Island. They emphasized that the Turkmens of the coast received their people cordially and friendly.
In 1801-1802, representatives of the Turkmens of Mangyshlak arrived in St. Petersburg with a request to accept them as subjects of Russia. In May 1802, Alexander the First by a special decree announced the acceptance of the Turkmens of Mangyshlak under the protection and citizenship of Russia.
In 1811, part of the Turkmens of Mangyshlak moved to Astrakhan, where their ancestors live to this day. According to the 2002 census, about 2,200 Turkmens lived in the Astrakhan region.
Expeditions are organized in 1819-1821, 1832, 1836. In 1836, the Maslakhat of the Caspian Yomuds took place in Esenguly. It was attended by 118 representatives, selected from approximately 180,000 inhabitants of the region.
After a general exchange of views, it was decided that it was necessary to ask Russia for protection. In 1859, an expedition was organized to explore east coast Caspian, as well as the selection of a site for the construction of a fort.
Krasnovodsky examined in detail
bay, depth measurements were made. In November 1869, a military detachment led by N.G. Stoletov founded the city of Krasnovodsk, on the site of the ancient well Shagadam. The process of joining Turkmenistan to the Russian Empire which is not always voluntary.
In 1870-1872 several expeditions were organized from Krasnovodsk deep into the Turkmen lands. In 1874, the Transcaspian military department was created, the center of which became Krasnovodsk.
Earlier in 1873, the Krasnovodsk bailiff was created. On the basis of the department in 1882, the Transcaspian region was created. In June 1880, the construction of the first railway in the history of Turkmenistan began.
The main line started from the shore of the Mikhailovsky Bay of the Caspian Sea and already in September 1881 was brought to Kizylarvat. Krasnovodsk becomes a commercial sea port.
Being an important transshipment point for goods, it is turning into the "gates of Central Asia." In 1908, the number of workers in the city reached 1.5 thousand people. In 1913, along the Transcaspian railway transported about 1 million tons of cargo.
By 1913, 7,000 people lived in Krasnovodsk. Ethnic composition The population, both at that time and later, was motley - Russians, Persians, Tatars, Poles, Azerbaijanis, Kurds, Kazakhs.
Not many Turkmen lived, mainly in the nearby auls. The city has trading warehouses, a bazaar, hotels, port facilities, offices of companies and communities, including oil production.
In 1917, after the October Revolution, power in the city passes to the Bolsheviks. In July 1918, the Right SRs and Mensheviks seized power as a result of a coup.
In February 1920, the Red Army captured the city again. In the 1930s, in Krasnovodsk, as in all of Turkmenistan, there was a rapid growth of industry. In 1939, 21,000 people already lived in the city.
The development of the city required qualified specialists. Due to their influx, the population of the city grew. In 1943, during the difficult years of the war, the first production was produced by the Krasnovodsk oil refinery.
The country at that time especially needed oil products. In 1940, the TSSR already produced 540,000 tons of oil per year. In the 1950s and 1960s, Krasnovodsk became a major industrial center of Turkmenistan.
Oil refining, food industry, production of building materials, energy industry are developing here. In 1972, 51,000 people lived in the city.
Krasnovodsk has a pedagogical and medical school. In 1989, the population of the seaside town reached 58,900 people. It should be noted that in the 1970s and 1980s, population growth slowed down significantly.
In Krasnovodsk, already at that time, tendencies towards the outflow of the population to Ashgabat and central regions USSR. Until 1987, the city was the administrative center of the Krasnovodsk region, which was subsequently abolished and re-created in January 1991, but with the center in the city of Nebit-Dag.
Since 1992 it has been renamed Balkanskaya. In 1993, the city was renamed in honor of the President of Turkmenistan - Turkmenbashi. In the 1990s, there was a strong outflow of residents to the republics of the former USSR and Ashgabat.
According to the 1995 census, Krasnovodsk is the only locality Turkmenistan, where Russians made up the majority of the population (32.8%). Krasnovodsk continued to be one of the most multinational cities in Turkmenistan.
Numerous communities of Azerbaijanis, Armenians, Tatars, Ukrainians, Germans, Lezgins, Uzbeks, Kazakhs were represented here. In 1999, the five millionth resident of Turkmenistan was born in the city.
In 2005, the city has 68,300 inhabitants. Krasnovodsk in many ways unique city in Turkmenistan. And it's not just its coastal location. It is the only one where whole quarters have been preserved, built up with buildings that are a hundred or more years old.
The architecture of the city is also original, which has certain Caucasian features, somewhat similar to Baku. As before, and now the main problem of the city is water supply.
Despite the fact that a lot of work has been done in this regard, a similar problem continues to occur. In the second half of the 20th century, Krasnovodsk grew significantly in size.
New microdistricts - Cheryomushki, as well as residential areas to the west of the city were built. However, over the past 20 years, not one new multi-storey residential building has been built in the city, but there are logical explanations for this, including due to the strong outflow of the population during this period.
An important problem for the city is ecology. This issue is especially relevant, due to the proximity of the city complex and thermal power plants. In 2010, large-scale work began to clean up the city port from old ships.
There have been dozens of the latter. In 2000, the first two modern hotels, Turkmenbashi and Serdar, were built in Krasnovodsk and its environs. In 2007, President of Turkmenistan Gurbanguly Berdimuhammedov put forward the idea of building a National Tourist Zone in the town of Avaza, 12 kilometers west of Turkmenbashi.
Over these 4 years, 10 new hotels, several rest houses, two children's health camps, cottage rest houses, cafes, amphitheaters and other facilities.
Among them is a seven-kilometer canal. In the future, it is planned to build an aqua park, an indoor ski complex, parks, hotels and other tourist facilities.
There are plans for the construction of a new city, announced by the President of the country in 2008. A big event for the city was the opening of a new international airport that meets all requirements, with a runway of almost 4 kilometers.
Currently, international and local flights are operated from the airport, in particular to Istanbul and Moscow. This year, a major transport interchange was opened, as well as new highways.
The city has one of the oldest Orthodox churches laid down in 1895. Walking through the streets of the old part of the city, you immerse yourself in the peculiar atmosphere of Krasnovodsk of the past, such as it was at its inception.
Despite the fact that many buildings are a hundred or more years old, they are all functional. Many are still residential buildings.
Turkmenbashi is a port city located in the Balkan velayat on the shores of the Caspian Sea. With the city of Baku west bank the city is connected by a ferry crossing 270 km away. Until 1993, the city was called Krasnovodsk - the name of the city was actually a translation of the local toponym "Kyzyl-Su". In 1993, it was renamed in honor of the first president of Turkmenistan, Turkmenbashi Saparmurat Niyazov. According to the 2005 census, the population is 68 thousand people. Oil refining, food (as well as fishing), light industry is developed here, an oil refinery, ship repair, a memorial museum of 26 Baku commissars, and a museum of local lore are located. The hotels "Serdar", "Turkmenbashi", "Tolkun", "Avaza" work.
The city of Turkmenbashi is the first port and gateway of the Caspian Sea in Turkmenistan, and the national tourist zone "Avaza" is the first recreation area in the country.
Transport
The city is important as a transportation hub, formed by a seaport with a ferry terminal, a railway and an airport with a runway capable of receiving all types of aircraft. Also currently under construction new airport, railway and multi-lane expressway Ashgabat - Turkmenbashi.
History of Turkmenbashi
Turkmenbashi is a relatively young city. It was founded in 1869 Russian expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel Nikolai Grigorievich Stoletov. Exactly 140 years ago, in the month of October, the Russians went to the open sea and headed exactly here to create a city on the coast of the Caspian Sea. But by chance, during their voyage, there was a strong storm, and all the ships were scattered across the sea. Therefore, each ship arrived in the Krasnovodsk Bay at different times. The first moored in Muraviev Bay on October 31, the second on November 3 and the third on November 6. And for this reason, the date of the founding of the city of Krasnovodsk is a controversial issue: each of the three can be considered significant and chosen as the birthday of a new wonderful city in Turkmenistan. Here, on the wild coast of the Krasnovodsk Bay, it was decided to build a fortress - a trading post. This bay seemed to the builders the most favorable location for the new city, since it almost never freezes and is protected from strong winds on all sides. Even under Peter I, these places were examined and described by the associates of the leader of the first expedition, Prince Bekovich-Cherkassky. In a new place, a new fortress and a fortified fort were laid. All that remained of it was a blockhouse battery, where the local museum is now located.
Like many other centers of the state, Krasnovodsk owes its origin to the Russians who occupied this Central Asian territory. So, the sailors who landed on the shore began to build here not just a settlement, but a whole system of trade, economic and cultural relations with the local Turkmen tribes.
Today, the attention of tourists in Turkmenbashi can be attracted not only by modern new buildings that are being built so actively, but also by some old buildings and structures that can tell about the past of the city.
Each city has its own history, keeps the old secrets of life and, of course, Turkmenbashi is no exception to this historical rule. Unfortunately, many of the tasks of past years have not been preserved in this territory. The reason for this, perhaps, was some specific circumstances, such as aggressive or defensive wars, destroying everything in its path, leaving nothing but a pile of ashes. Or maybe the blame for everything was the people themselves, who failed to do so little - to preserve their heritage left to them by their ancestors, in fact, their own forefathers; or maybe it happened due to someone's misunderstanding of the essence of historical value and the attractiveness of antiquity. Who knows? And who is to judge now? But the main task now is to try to save at least what is left. Moreover, at the moment the city of Turkmenbashi claims to become a large tourist centre countries. And for this he has all the prerequisites. While the city lives with the future that may open up before it, the time when it finally reaches the desired goal - to become a second Antalya or even something more.
Of course, for tourists, the favorite places to visit are ancient historical monuments of bygone times. But every day there are less and less places like this. The past of the region inevitably rushes to nowhere. On the site of the ruins of the old city, new buildings are being erected - modern hotels and administrative buildings. Of course, such measures taken by the state also cannot be ignored, because Turkmenbashi is modern city modern state, which also needs to develop, move forward, and not live in constant memory of the past. But, in any case, this question is a double-edged sword, in which any decision made will not be welcomed by the masses, such is human nature.
Any seaside city always begins with the station and the seaport. The Moorish-style Turkmenbashi station was built in 1895-96, but, unfortunately, neither the architect nor the manufacturer of the work has yet been clarified. The station building is one of the most beautiful in the entire railway of Central Asia. station Square adjacent to the memorial to the soldiers who died during the war.
The sea trade port in Turkmenbashi developed very quickly. About a dozen marinas were built. And recently, the original building of the Turkmendenizderyayollary port administration was erected in the form of a ship at sea.
Not so long ago, the construction of a new international seaport was planned. Turkmen ships have recently mastered many sea routes, up to the sea gates of Gibraltar. And the port itself is developing rapidly. Frontal modernization of gantry cranes and seagoing vessels is being carried out. A radical reconstruction of port facilities, logistics centers and oil terminals is underway. With the increase in the volume of transportation by sea, the most powerful German-made truck crane "Liebherr" with computer control and a lifting capacity of up to 500 tons has already been put into operation in the port. Such a truck crane is the pride of any port in the world. Cargo terminals with a volume of 5,000 cubic meters serve Komatsu autocars and 20-ton Mazmana trucks, and 40-ton Kalmar forklifts are used to transport heavy sea containers.
The new port, which is being built in accordance with modern international standards, will receive both foreign ships and ships for sea cruises, yachts and other ships, which will soon replenish the National fleet of Turkmenistan.
In 1951, a large complex of the oil workers' palace of culture was built, in the construction of which Japanese prisoners of war were also taken.
Well, the main pride of Turkmenbashi, of course, is the sea. Everyone is in love with him - both visitors and locals. Such a miracle of nature cannot leave anyone indifferent.
Turkmenbashi-Krasnovodsk is really unique and beautiful city. And if you decide to visit Turkmenistan, a trip to this city should be on your list first.
Sights of Turkmenbashi
Avaza - actively developing seaside resort located 12 km west of the city center.
Mosque Parau-bibi. Small white mosque Parau-bibi - sacred place Muslim pilgrimages. She stands all alone on one of the rocks of the Kopetdag.
There is a beautiful legend dedicated to the history of the mosque. According to this legend, Parau-bibi was a beautiful Turkmen woman who lived in one of the villages. Somehow they promised to give her at the mercy of the advancing enemies. Fleeing, she fled to the mountains and prayed. Then the rock parted and hid Parau-Bibi forever. This is where the mosque was built. A curved staircase leads to the mosque. Halfway through, you can see the imprints in the rock that Parau-bibi left: from the knee, elbow, finger and forehead. Today, hundreds of women come to a small mosque and ask Parau-bibi, the patroness of pregnant women and children, to help them preserve their beauty, find a good husband and many children.
Also, according to legend, lying a little further away, several sickle-shaped stones used to be pieces of melon, which Parau-bibi threw in a panic at the approaching enemies. According to custom, young women step on these stones. If the stone begins to rotate, then everything will be fine. If it does not rotate, then in a year you have to try again, returning to these beautiful places.
Shir-Kabib Mausoleum. At 6 km from Dehistan there is an ancient burial place Mashad - a Muslim necropolis with the famous mausoleum of Ali ibn Sukkari or "Shir-Kabir" located in the center. The monument belongs to the buildings of the prestigious Serah architectural school and dates back to the 10th century. The walls of the building, made of square mud bricks, were decorated from base to dome with carved ganch with scrolls, leaf patterns and Kufic inscriptions, and painted in blue, red and pistachio green.
"Shir-Kabir" is also called the mosque "on wooden pillars". This is the oldest mosque preserved on the territory of Turkmenistan. Moreover, the unique carved mihrab (chapel) oriented towards Mecca, consisting of three niches inscribed into each other, suggests that this mausoleum, first of all, was used precisely as a mosque, and not just as a tomb.
Unfortunately, "Shir-Kabir" has been repeatedly reconstructed; elements of decor of the 10th century have been preserved in its interior. And the interior decoration still bears the imprint of grandeur and beauty.
This place is also a shrine for pilgrims who, having visited it, claimed that, after Mecca, this is the only place on earth blessed by Allah.
Caravanserai Tasharvat. picturesque ruins the Tasharvat caravanserai lies 38 km from the city of Balkanabat, the capital of the Balkan velayat. During the functioning of the Great Silk Road, the caravanserai was of great importance for the caravans passing by, in which they made a stop on the way of their long wanderings.
The building of the caravanserai is a rectangular fortification with a stone wall, inside which are the ruins of a residential building. Near the caravanserai there was a grove of elms with 100 trees. The first mention of the fortification of Tasharvat was found in 1871-1872. Archaeological studies have shown that the building was inhabited at the end of the 19th century.
Dehistan is a clayey, waterless plain in the southwest of Turkmenistan near the Caspian Sea. But this area was not always so deserted and inconspicuous. Once upon a time, during its heyday, life was in full swing here, gardens were blooming, fields were green, surrounded by life-giving waters of rivers. Already in the 3rd millennium BC. this territory was actively developed by the first farmers who came here, and in the 3-6 centuries, numerous Turkic tribes began to come to the oasis irrigated by the Atrek River: Saks, Massagets, Hephthalites. But the most powerful tribal union was headed by the Dakhs (hence the name of the area), who created large fortified strongholds and settlements (Shadur-kala, Akga-kala).
Misrian is a settlement located on the territory of Dehistan and is its largest historical monument. Only the ruins of this huge settlement have come down to us, but even from them we can say that at one time it was a place with the highest level of cultural development. The city consisted of shahristan (citadel), rabat (suburb) and densely populated quarters of artisans surrounding it from all sides. true dimensions ancient city not clearly established, since there is not enough information about it. In the 10-13 centuries, the citadel was surrounded by a powerful fortress wall, which was guarded by two rows of sentinels.
Misrian can be considered the center of the craft. This is evidenced by the remains of hundreds of workshops that produced first-class bricks, bronze cauldrons, lamps, other metal products, beautiful, including faience, glazed ceramics. The latter impresses with the abundance and the highest artistic level of ornamental and narrative painting. All kinds of glass products were also produced in a large assortment, and master jewelers created their masterpieces from precious metals and were distinguished by high professionalism and refined taste in artistic stone processing. In addition, a water supply system perfect for its time, numerous baths, and city sewerage were also found in Misrian, which is an indicator of a developed urban culture.
Relatively preserved monuments of Dehistan are two twenty-meter minarets. It is interesting that, being only 120 m apart, they, judging by the surviving inscriptions, were built with an interval of almost 200 years.
From one, probably the cathedral mosque, only two pilots of the portal remained with a delightful rich decoration of the vegetable epigraphic style using polychrome glaze of the highest quality.
During the reign of the Khorezmshahs, the city managed to experience a rapid flourishing, but was subsequently destroyed to the ground by the Mongol troops. In the 15th century the city died forever.
Today I want to tell you about the city of Turkmenbashi, named after the past great leader and father of all Turkmen Turkmenbashi. It's funny that almost all Russian-speaking Turkmens continue to call it Krasnovodsk in the old fashioned way. The new name does not take root well. By the way, this is a ubiquitous phenomenon in Turkmenistan. Despite the fact that in Turkmenistan all the main streets and cities were renamed long ago, the locals are reluctant to use the new names. Until now, Lenin Street has been used instead of Turkmenbashi or Moskovskaya instead ... But what difference does it make, as it is called now, the three Turkmens I interviewed could not remember the new name.
But back to Turkmenbashi. The city is young. It was founded in 1869 by the Russian military. In the 20th century, Krasnovodsk turned into a transport, trade and oil refining center of Turkmenistan.
Turkmenbashi is interesting in that it is not at all touristy, which means you can see how ordinary people live. This will be especially useful for all those who drool pink over the polished scenery of Ashgabat. See how people live.
For at least the last five years, Turkmenbashi has been on the verge of a humanitarian catastrophe. The fact is that a tourist zone called Avaza is being actively rebuilt next to it. It attracted the attention of city and state authorities and left Turkmenbashi with little to no water or electricity.
Oppositional Turkmen media say that the inhabitants of Turkmenbashi experience a shortage of drinking water every day. The communal system has not seen repairs for many years, the sewerage and water pipes are in a terrible state. There is no water for weeks, last summer it was turned on for 3-4 hours in the evenings, and even then not every day. A characteristic sign of the city is water tanks in all yards.
People no longer know where to complain, they call and write to Ashgabat, but the authorities say there is nothing they can do. One local resident told reporters that she sends bags of dirty laundry to relatives in the capital because she has nowhere to wash them.
The locals confirmed to me that everything is really very bad with water, but even worse with electricity and roads. There is nothing.
The airport was built brand new, but it is focused on tourists who come to Avaza. The airport is even called international, although there are no international flights from it. At the exit, a crowd of Turkmen offers the services of taxi drivers. 
01. The city itself is small, spread out on the coastal hills. 
02. Like the whole of Turkmenistan, it is divided into two parts. The first is the front door. This is what potential tourists can see. Perfect roads, perfect cleanliness. City-fairy tale, city-dream. The second part is real: dirty, ruined and impoverished. 
03. One of the few historical buildings that have survived to this day is the station. 
04. The station was restored, for some reason ugly plastic windows were inserted. 
05. Soviet monuments were also left, but with a reservation. First, they were all repainted in gold. Secondly, on many monuments, the heads of Slavic appearance were replaced with heads of Turkmen appearance (if I may say so). 
06. Monument to the fisherman. People call it a monument to a poacher. 
07. Soviet buildings have been preserved on the central street. 
08. The Turkmen window dressing is clearly visible in the photo. Here only the main facade is painted, only what guests passing by can see. 
09. On the other hand, it doesn't matter what. 
10. Gate 
11. The old Soviet hotel has survived to this day without changes. 
12. Real streets look like this. 
13. And so. The woman has obtained water and is carrying it into the house. This is the center of the city, there has been no water for three days. 
14. Main street: perfectly smooth asphalt, clean houses, lanterns. On the left are two janitors. Women, if they find a cigarette butt or a piece of paper, will rush to the garbage, like a hungry student to a pack of Doshirak. 
15. The facade of the house, which faces the main street, with new tinted windows so that no apartments can be seen through them. “Can you insert transparent windows?” I asked a local. “If your windows overlook the main street, you can’t, only blue ones ...” - sadly replied local. “It would be better if they put pink ones, it would be more fun!” his companion joked. The couple laughed. Pay attention to the water tanks to the left of the house. 
16. On the other hand, the house looks like this. This is real Turkmenistan, which no one will show you. Again, look at the giant water tanks in the background. Please note that there is no asphalt either. 
17. Behind the scenery - life! Without water, electricity and roads. During those hours when water begins to flow through the pipes in Turkmenbashi, the inhabitants of the city stop everything and run to store it. Tap water usually flows dirty, but no one cares, because there is no other. Basins, pots, bathtubs and, of course, special tanks are used. From these tanks, people are laying improvised water pipes so that the water supply goes directly to the apartments. 
18.
19. Everyone has plates. 
20. The first floors take over courtyards. 
21.
22.
23.
24. Again water tanks, of which the water supply goes to the apartments. 
Without it, you cannot survive here. 
25. Instead of fixing the plumbing, the authorities build palaces and golden statues of the leaders. So that dear readers can drool about how well the Turkmens are doing. Why water, why electricity in houses, it’s better to fix the palace! 
26. And this is what the school looks like on the main road. 
27. And this is an exemplary kindergarten. I did not see children there, although it was a weekday. It is always shown to tourists as a symbol of successful and prosperous Turkmenistan. 
28. And this is the Turkmenbashi hotel. Yes, it was about him that the joke was "Come to Turkmenbashi (city) to Turkmenbashi (month) along Turkmenbashi (street) to Turkmenbashi (hotel)". And all this through the airport of Turkmenbashi. 
29. Beauty! Attention to banners. 
30. Banners along the road cover unsightly buildings. 
31. Real Krasnovodsk. 
32. Wedding car decoration 
33. Beautiful 
34.
35. Shawarma is called kebab here ( 
36. They sell fish right on the sidewalk. 
37. Women wear national dresses. 
38. Schoolgirls across the country are in green uniforms.
39. 
40. Young growth 
41. Boys must be in costumes. 
42. I wanted to go to the bank ... 
43. Fuck it! Don't just go to the bank! Shoes are not allowed! Yes, this is not a joke. 
44. In Turkmenistan, there is still a lot of Soviet equipment on the move. In no other country have I seen so much retro rubbish as travels in Turkmenistan. The country is really poor, if you scrape off the gilding from the scenery. 
45. Market
46.
47. Last summer, Turkmenbashi residents complained to journalists that the local market had very expensive products. They blame the price hike on visiting workers involved in the construction of facilities in Avaza:
There are so many of them that they now make up half of the entire population of our city. They say this: if all labor migrants are sent home, then the prices in the bazaar will return to normal, and it will become easier to get a job.
48. 
49. All Turkish vegetables, almost nothing of their own. Tomatoes for 100 rubles. Inexpensive. 
50. Everything is plastic, as in Moscow. 
51.
52. Golden teeth;) Let me remind you that Turkmenbashi fought with them at one time. 
53. Like this. 
Often in the comments, for some reason, Turkmenistan is compared with the United Arab Emirates, or rather, with the emirate of Dubai. The comparison is fundamentally wrong. There are not so many local people in Dubai, in this they are very similar to the Turkmens. But only the indigenous people of Dubai live like this: 
And this is the Al-Barsha area. It is impossible for a foreigner to buy real estate here. Luxurious villas, good cars. I have not seen a single ruined house or poor Dubai in Dubai. All sorts of guest workers from Bangladesh or Indians live in poverty. And in Turkmenistan, one of the richest post-Soviet republics, the leader took all the wealth. And now he decides whether to build him a new golden statue, a new palace, or overlay everything with white marble. And ordinary people live the same way as we do. There is no Turkmen miracle.
Continue tomorrow.
, Azerbaijanis, Armenians
Story [ | ]
Bakhmi Station of the Trans-Caspian Railway in 1890
The first attempt to consolidate the Russian Empire on the eastern coast of the Caspian dates back to 1716, when Prince Bekovich-Cherkassky founded a fortification on the coast of the Krasnovodsk Bay ("at the mouth of the Uzboy"), preparing a campaign against Khiva. The fortification had a kronverk, was surrounded by a moat and a rampart. They were armed with guns. The garrison numbered up to 1000 people, but the death rate from disease was very high. The commandant of the fortress was Colonel von der Wieden.
Symbolic gates to Central Asia in the city of Turkmenbashi
In 1869, under the leadership of Colonel Nikolai Stoletov, the fortified fort of the Russian army (UFRA) was re-founded Krasnovodsk. Now, at the location of the fort, there is the village of Kenar (part of the city of Turkmenbashi). The place where Krasnovodsk was founded was called Shaga-dam. The fort was used as a base for operations against the Turkmen nomads and for campaigns against the Bukhara and Khiva khanates. The Transcaspian region was formed, Krasnovodsk was its center before the construction of Ashgabat (see Central Asian possessions of the Russian Empire). It was a small town inhabited by Russian military and officials, as well as merchants - Persians and Armenians. After the construction of the Trans-Caspian Railway, which started from Krasnovodsk, from Central Asia via ferry to Baku in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Krasnovodsk became an important transport center and began to grow.
There are three modern hotels in the city.
City coat of arms [ | ]
Population [ | ]
Transport [ | ]
Modern terminal of Turkmenbashi airport
The city is important as a transportation hub, formed by a seaport with a ferry terminal, railway and airport. The trans-Turkmen highway M37 passes through the city, connecting Karabogaz, Ashgabat, Turkmenbashi and Bukhara.
The airport [ | ]
In 1990 Krasnovodsk Airport celebrated its 50th anniversary. Initially, in 1940, it was located at the bottom of the plateau, in the area of the hospital. During the Great Patriotic War, it was transferred to the top of the plateau and was a joint airfield, along with parts of the Air Force. It was considered the assigned airport of the Ashgabat enterprise. It has existed as an independent unit since 1959, after the creation of the 225th Separate Joint Air Squadron (OOAE).
In 2010, the Turkmenbashi airport was reconstructed and received international status. It has two runways, connects the city with Ashgabat, velayat centers and Istanbul. Regular cargo flights to Turkmenbashi are operated by the Luxembourg airline Cargolux. The airport can be reached from the city by car or bus. Travel time to the city by car takes 10-15 minutes.
Rail connection[ | ]
The Turkmenbashi railway station was built in 1895 according to the design of the architect Alexei Benois. Benois is the author of the palace of the Grand Duke Nikolai Konstantinovich in Tashkent and many other projects in the former Turkestan. The station building is one of the most beautiful in the entire railway of Central Asia. Station Square is adjacent to the memorial to the soldiers who died during the Great Patriotic War. Train No. 605/606 from Ashgabat runs daily from Turkmenbashi station.
Maritime communication[ | ]
International seaport[ | ]
Coast security
The largest seaport in Turkmenistan is the Turkmenbashi International sea port. On August 15, 2013, the construction of a new port worth 2 billion US dollars began in Turkmenbashi, the facility is being built by the Turkish company Gap Insaat.
On the territory of the port, the construction of a shipbuilding and ship repair plant is also underway "to expand the capabilities of Turkmenistan in the field of international transportation of oil and oil products."
In 2014, the Marine Passenger Station was opened.
Ferry crossing Turkmenbashi-Baku[ | ]
Integral part transport system Turkmenistan in international transport projects and corridors are the railway ferry crossings Turkmenbashi-Baku and Turkmenbashi-Astrakhan.
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| Port of the city of Turkmenbashi | Vessel "Alsion" in the port of the city of Turkmenbashi. Turkmenistan. 1998 | Railway station of the city of Turkmenbashi - depot |
Geography [ | ]
Climate [ | ]
Hotel "Serdar" in the tourist zone "Avaza"
In the city area, the shooting of Soviet feature films "Eclipse Days" by Alexander Sokurov, "Forty-First" by Grigory Chukhrai and "Dune" by Sanzhar Babaev (in the city itself) was filmed.
In 1998, as part of their three-month expedition to the Caspian Sea, the city was visited by the Cousteau Team on the Alsion ship.
Religion [ | ]
Russian Orthodox Church[ | ]
Church of the Archangel Michael
Armenian Apostolic Church[ | ]
The Armenian temple was built in 1903, but now it does not work and needs major reconstruction.
Sport [ | ]
The city has a stadium where the Turkmen professional football club Shagadam is based.
cellular [ | ]
There is a mobile operator in the city: "TM CELL" is a national company that started operating in 2007, since 2010 there has been a "fourth generation" network () with support for LTE technology, the network covers all districts of the city of Turkmenbashi and the international airport.
