Fun for kids in London. English amusement parks for children and adults

Hello friends! Recently, I more and more often remember our extreme trip to the Indian Himalayas on a motorcycle, and somehow slowly I am beginning to be drawn to exploits again. Moreover, our Borka stands alone in Vasishta and is clearly waiting for new adventures. Still, it’s not in vain that they say that “2 wheels carry the soul”: you start to miss road adventures. Especially when sitting in a cozy home environment in a measured and lazy Almaty.

Therefore, writing about Ladakh, where India reveals itself with a completely unexpected and some especially deep beauty, is quite difficult. For as soon as I got here, I completely lost my mind from the contemplation of the surrounding landscapes and sights.

In general, Ladakh (or Ladakh), in my understanding, is one of those small corners of the world where you can still meet a live and real Indian. (the other two are Bhutan) For within China, under the pressure of its "cultural civilization", Lhasa and other attractions have long been turned into museum exhibits. Everything is so refined and artificial.

Monk

Against their background, the vibrant monastic culture of remote Ladakh villages looks especially impressive. Although they have much less PR, but this affects the safety and purity of culture only positively.

Conventionally, I divide all Ladakh pearls into 2 big block: natural and cultural. And I will write about each of them separately and be sure to post a photo. Go...

Throughout the Tibetan world (and I perceive Ladakh as an inseparable part of it), monasteries have played an extremely important cultural and social function for centuries. They kept books, wrote history, invented medicine and celebrated holidays. These were orphanages, and hospitals and citadels and psychiatric hospitals, and even Buddha knows what ...

Dilapidated gompa in Le

For the sake of them alone, you can already come here, because the energy and interior decoration and external aesthetics - all this affects our fragile consciousness very pointwise and deeply.

Especially if you sympathize with Buddhist philosophy and show solidarity towards the Tibetan population.

I will tell you about those monasteries where I myself was and which left the greatest imprint in my soul.

Spituk

Founded in the 11th century. It is located very close to the capital of Ladakh, Leh, near the airport. A quiet, measured and Buddhist-immersed place with a stunning 360-degree panorama. On the territory there are many large statues of Buddhist forms and key figures of Tibetan Buddhism: Tsongkhapa with his students and the legendary Padmasambhava.

Monk feeding a cat on the roof of Spituk

In the main hall there is a throne for the Dalai Lama, who often holds his sessions here.

There were almost no novices during our stay. Only at the very top, near the hall with angry Buddha forms, in a dark, smoky closet, an old Tibetan read mantras. It smelled of oil and incense smoke. The sun was setting. I looked out over the wide Indus valley and heard the knocking of doors somewhere in the womb of ancient Spituk.

Lamayuru

I first read about this monastery under the almost Russian nickname "Lamayura" in his travel notes. This is a large and rich monastery complex, with a bunch of prayer halls and even a ticket office at the entrance (price - 50 rupees).

Contemplating Lamayuru

There is even a restaurant on site with completely non-monastic price tags and a pretentious ten percent service charge. Right there, on the territory, for the first time in all my travels in Ladakh, Tibetan grandmothers began to beg for change.

Tourist visits from compassionate Europeans spoil any place, and unfortunately, Lamayuru is no exception. Although on its territory you can still find ancient temple 11th century with images of Buddhas and a unique phenomenon called "dry rain".

I remained almost indifferent to Lamayuru and was much more imbued with the external aesthetics of the monastery, sitting on a dusty clay hill from the side of the Fotu-La pass.

Another majestic monastery 20 km from Lech, which is visited daily by so many people during the season that finding a quiet and secluded place can be a big problem. On the territory of the monastery there are several halls, the most interesting of which, in my opinion, is the hall of Maitreya (Buddha of the future), dedicated to the visit of the EU Dalai Lama in 1970.

Maitreya in Thiks

The statue of Maitreya in it is built so that it is impossible to see it in its entirety. Above you walk right at the head of the statue, below - at its feet. This design embodies the transcendental nature of all Buddhas and the impossibility of knowing it with the help of ordinary senses.

I personally have a special relationship with Tixa. In 2012, I arrived in Le, and in order to somehow fix my then liberation from the burden of a hated job and the loss of loved ones, I decided, by all means, to get a Buddhist name.

Tikse from the side

Tikse for this ritual seemed to me perfect place. I approached the secretary, stated my request, and after 10 minutes I was sitting in the residence of the chief rinpoche on the top floor. Rinpoche placed a white scarf around my neck and named me Tenzin Sonam. After that I made a small donation and went downstairs happy.

Why I needed it - I don’t know, but some part of me very clearly measured out the point of no return to the old life with a check-point. Apparently, this made sense.

Tikse under the gray sky

Tikse, by the way, is also very commercialized: an expensive restaurant with a guesthouse, a Tibetan medicine clinic, and an entrance fee (30 rupees). Although, to be honest, this fact does not bother me at all, because I understand perfectly well that this is how the monastery provides its own maintenance. The main thing is to keep the spirit! And in Tiks, this is completely in order ...

Hemis

No less impressive monastery 40 km from Leh, rich and very beautiful. By its pomposity, Hemis outdid even Lamayuru: in addition to the restaurant, there is a large museum on its territory dedicated to Buddhism and the culture of Ladakh. But that's not what makes him unique.

For according to legend, the so-called. "Tibetan Gospel" describing the lost years of Christ. Nicholas Roerich mentioned this in one of his publications. True, he later retracted his words. Apparently, the searchers got ...

In addition, N.A. Notovich mentioned the Tibetan Gospel in Hemis in his writings, who allegedly found it in the local library in 1984. Whether this is true or not is a mystery. For modern lamas say nothing about this and inquiringly shrug their shoulders in response. And earlier in general this fact was openly denied.

Numerous outbuildings of Hemis

The rest is a monastery, like a monastery. Rich, big and pompous.

Maulbeck or Mulbeck

A small monastery on the Le-Kargil road. Known mostly for its 8th century Chamba statue carved into solid rock. Very handy, a good place for meditation and practice. For all the tourists are blown out of there like the wind and no one is practically delayed.

It is nice to stop here if you are moving along the Le-Kargil-Srinagar road, to relax, be silent, stare at the stars. For the silence at night is deafening and calm, like a Buddha in his bosom.

The palaces of Le, She and Stoke

Not exactly monasteries, of course, but quite self-sufficient cultural attractions - the palaces of local kings. Textured, beautiful and charismatic.

Stoke Palace

Aryan valleys

There is another lure here, which stray foreigners willingly peck at: the so-called. unique Aryan tribes of Dards living in the villages of Dha and Hanu. I, too, was no exception, and in 2012 I decided to get to Dha. In the village I was greeted by smiling locals, outwardly very reminiscent of Tajiks, in absolutely stunning headdresses made of ribbons, coins and fresh cranberries.

Dardic woman

We stopped for the night in the only guest house and the young dard host told us midnight stories about how German women flock here to get pregnant by true Aryans.

His “origin” was not left without attention: they say that the roots of their language underlie all European ones, and once he even understood what the French were talking about among themselves. And yes, the word "bonjour" clearly comes from the Ladakhi "julli".

Little dards

To my question: how did he know about all this, he replied that the British had told them all about it (Dards). I, with all my extremely jealous attitude towards the truth, did not say a word in response.

However, the place is very colorful and beautiful. A permit is required to visit, which is done in Le. You can get everything on the same ubiquitous irregular buses.

Back streets of Dha village

natural beauty

However, Ladakh is famous for more than one culture. I personally quickly get tired of monasteries and exotics and I desperately want to touch the simple wisdom of Mother Nature. Thankfully, this is all right. True, it is very harsh ... For the climate in Ladakh is extremely high-mountainous, dry and cold. Altitudes - from 3600 and above, practically without vegetation and trees, especially within the high automobile passes.

But it is precisely for their sake that it is worth going here. And if you know how to saddle motorcycles, then it’s a must!

Road from Manali to Leh

Probably the brightest and title attraction for which people flock to the Himalayas from all over the world. The Manali Leh road captures a lot of beauties in one jerk, because it passes through 4 passes, the height of two of which is above 5000 m.

On the Tanglang pass, 5359 m high

Around - deserts, snow, like-minded people on the legendary Enfields and rarefied mountain air, from which the head is spinning and the knees are bent. Views and people match the landscapes - calm, silent, wise. The road surface is gloomy, the temperature even in summer can drop to 0. The ideal conditions for challenging yourself.

Lake Pangong

I already wrote about it in my blog. big salt Lake, located at an altitude of 4500 meters, 150 km from Lech. Point of border claims between India and China and a place of mass Indian tourism.

at Pangong Lake

Beautiful, fun, cold and sometimes inadequately expensive. The road goes through the Chang-la pass, 5360 meters high.

Khardung-la pass

It is declared as the highest automobile pass in the world, with a height of as much as 5600 meters. In fact, independent GPS measurements have long refuted this, “lowering” the saddle to the legal 5359. Nevertheless, Khardung La is one of the most famous passes in the world, which can even be reached from Leh by bicycle.

Photo was taken from here

More often, however, they arrange another adventure: they lift bicycles up in jeeps so that riders can ride them all the way to Lech. And this is 40 km of the way and almost 2 km vertically, why not an adventure?

A picturesque and wide valley to the north of Le, behind the Khardung-La pass. Known primarily for its alpine sand dunes, Diskit Monastery and huge two-humped Bactrians. Another iconic feature of Nubra is the local population, which, unlike the Mongoloid Ladakhis, often has blond hair and blue eyes.

According to the legend, which does not withstand even the most primitive criticism, these are supposedly the descendants of the soldiers of Alexander the Great (or Greek enthusiasts who came here to look for traces of Christ's presence). But, more likely, such tribes are the remnants of the ancient population of Asia, which, due to inaccessibility and remoteness, almost did not assimilate with the Mongoloid tribes of Ladakh.

From Nubra there is a direct road to Pangong Lake, so if you have transport and time, it’s a sin not to drive. But beware of altitude sickness: the altitudes are over 4000+, so at night it can be very flattening. It is treated by acclimatization and plenty of water.

You can get to the lake on all those rented motorcycles from Leh or on an irregular bus. A permit is required to visit.

Lake Tso Moriri

Another alpine salt lake 212 kilometers from Leh. Unlike Pangong, Tso Moriri (or Tso Morari) is smaller, located in a much more remote area, and visited much less (popular films were not filmed on its shore). It is best known for its nature reserve and a wide variety of birds and wildlife.

Lake Tso Moriri

The key town is Korzok, where irregular buses run from Leh.

Climbing Stok-kangri

Mountain hikers can climb Stok Kangri (6127 m), one of the most accessible six-thousanders in the world. When applying, a permit is allegedly required, but as practice shows, it is needed only for rescue work and the subsequent receipt of a certificate. All detailed information You can find out at any travel agency in Lech and rent special equipment there: crampons, ice axes and high-altitude boots.

view of Stok Kangri (rightmost and highest peak) from Leh

Despite the relative accessibility, nothing lessens the danger of the mountains, so it's better to take a guide with you.

When is the best time to go?

As I wrote, highlands and rarefied air reign here, so the weather can sometimes be very unpredictable and harsh. In winter, the temperature can reach 40 degrees below zero, and in the town of Drass once recorded -61, making it the second place in the world in terms of "frostiness" after the Yakut Oymyakon.

In summer, the weather settles down, during the day it can be warm at 30 degrees, which is replaced by a sharp cold snap at night. In general, the season in Ladakh begins around the end of June (when the passes open from the snow) and ends around the end of September, after heavy snowfalls in the mountains.

Other attractions

Of course, the above local pearls are not exhausted. For there are a lot of options for adventure seekers: these are trekking, rafting, and trips to places that no guidebook knows about. In terms of the latter, Ladakh is generally unique. How much is here!

For the most part, Ladakh is deserted and dry.

However, in any case, do not lose your vigilance: the threat of Islamic fanatics in Pakistan, the unstable social situation of Kashmir itself, the harsh climate of the highlands can greatly change your plans. Before you go, study the news and the situation; for physical contraindications, consult your doctor. Be careful and take care of yourself.

Literally, “La” means a pass, “dakh” means a country. It is located between the Kunlun ranges in the north and the Himalayas in the south. Ladakh is inhabited by peoples of both Indo-European and Tibetan origin and is one of the least populated areas Central Asia. Historically, Ladakh included Baltistan, the Indus Valley, Zanskar, Lahul Spiti in the south, Ngari and Aksai Chin in the east, and the Nubra Valley in the north. Currently, Ladakh borders Tibet in the east, Lahul and Spiti (Himachal Pradesh) in the south, the valleys of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltistan in the west, and is bounded by the Kunlun ridge, beyond which East Turkestan begins, in the north. On the territory of Ladakh there are some of the most high mountains in the world.

Ladakh is sometimes called "Little Tibet" due to its similarity with the culture and nature of Tibet. It has often played an important strategic role in the past due to its position at the crossroads of trade routes. The Great Silk Road once passed here, and Buddhist pilgrims founded monasteries on their way from India to Tibet. After the closure of China's western borders, international trade here fell into decline. Tourism is a significant source of income. Until 1974, Ladakh was closed to tourists, but now the Indian government is actively developing tourism in the region.

The most important and The largest city Ladakh - Leh. The majority of the inhabitants of Ladakh are Buddhists, the majority of the rest are Shia Muslims. Recently, the slogan of separating Ladakh into a separate union territory from the predominantly Muslim state of Jammu and Kashmir has been repeatedly put forward. Due to the fact that Tibet, having fallen under the expansion of China in the 50s and experienced the cultural revolution with it, lost most of the unique monuments of Buddhist culture, today it is Ladakh that has become the second homeland of Lamaism.

Geography

Ladakh is part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir in northern India and consists of two districts - Leh and Kargil. Leh, with an area of ​​45,100 km², is the larger of the two. It is located between 32° and 36° north latitude and 75°-80° east longitude. Leh borders Pakistan to the west and China to the north. The Leh district contains the city of Leh and 112 settlements.

Ladakh is India's highest plateau, with elevations ranging from 2,750 meters above sea level at Kargil to 7,672 meters at Sasir Kangri. It borders on two mountain ranges, the Karakorum in the north and the Great Himalayas in the south, and is also crossed by two parallel mountain ranges - the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges. The Ladakh Range does not have high peaks, on average its height is 6000 meters, the height of some passes is below 500 meters.

To the north of the Ladakh range is the warm and fertile valley of the Nabra River, extending to the foothills of the Karakorum. It is accessed by a road from Leh through the Kardung La pass (5600 meters), which is the highest automobile pass in the world. The Nabra Valley and the Shiok River Valley together are called Nabra.

Confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers

Between the Zanskar range and the Greater Himalayan range is an area called Zanskar - so vast and significant that its name is often mentioned along with Ladakh to refer to the region as a whole. Surrounded on all sides by high ridges, it was isolated from civilization for centuries and retained its power and its history. The presence of all high-altitude zones - both fertile valleys and alpine pastures - allowed its inhabitants to exist quite independently. The Zanskar River, having collected the waters of several large tributaries and many small ones, leaves this valley through a narrow and deep gorge, sawn by her in the Zanskar ridge, and flows into the Indus River below Leh. There is no direct wheeled road from Zanskar to Ladakh, the only way of communication is the ring road through the Penzi-La pass (4400 m) and Kargil in Kashmir. A significant part of communications to this day is carried out along caravan routes that have been established for many centuries, leading to Ladakh, Lahol and the southwestern foothills of the Himalayas.

The climate combines desert and arctic conditions, and Ladakh is often referred to as the "cold desert". The temperature here ranges from -40°C in winter to +35°C in summer. They say that only here you can suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time.

Story

Main article: History of Ladakh

The territory of Ladakh has been inhabited since the Neolithic, which is confirmed by numerous finds of cave drawings. Ancient population Ladakh supposedly consisted of Indo-Aryans, Mons and Dards, as mentioned by Herodotus, Nearchus, Megasthenes, Pliny the Elder and Claudius Ptolemy; mention of them is found in the geographical lists of the Puranas. In the 1st century A.D. e. Ladakh was part of the Kushan kingdom. In the 2nd century, Buddhism, which came from Kashmir, spread to western Ladakh. Eastern Ladakh and Western Tibet were populated by followers of the Bon religion until the 8th century. In the 8th century, Ladakh fell into the sphere of influence of Tibet, which was expanding to the West. At the same time, Chinese influence was spreading through Central Asia. In 842, after the collapse of the Tibetan Empire, Ladakh was captured by Nyima-Gon, a representative of the Tibetan ruling dynasty, who became the founder of the dynasty of rulers of Ladakh. During his reign, all of Ladakh was converted to Buddhism (often referred to in the literature as "the second spread of Buddhism"), religious ideas were borrowed in northwestern India, in particular, in Kashmir.

Thikse Monastery

King Lhachen Bhagan united Ladakh in the 14th century and founded the new Namgyal dynasty, which ruled until 1834. Representatives of the dynasty repelled attacks from Central Asia and expanded the territory of the state, which at some point reached as far east as Nepal. At the beginning of the 17th century, Zanskar and Spiti were annexed to Ladakh. Later, Ladakh was conquered by the Mughals, who had previously occupied Kashmir and Baltistan, but were able to maintain their independence.

At the end of the 17th century, Ladakh made an alliance with Bhutan against Tibet, which led to the Tibetan invasion of Ladakh. Kashmir gave Ladakh aid and re-established the rule of the Namgyal dynasty on the condition that the king of Ladakh convert to Islam and build a mosque in Leh. In 1684, the Temisgam Peace Treaty between Ladakh and Tibet was concluded, according to which the independence of Ladakh was severely limited.

In 1834, the Dogri, part of the Punjabi Sikh state's forces under Ranjit Singh, occupied and annexed Ladakh. The uprising in Ladakh in 1842 was crushed, and Ladakh was included in the state of Dogri, Jammu and Kashmir. The Namgyal dynasty received the jagir Stok (south of the city of Leh), which they formally own to this day. Beginning in the 1850s, European influence entered Ladakh; in 1885 a mission of the Protestant Moravian Church was founded in Lech.

In 1947, during the Partition of British India, Maharaja Hari Singh, ruler of Jammu and Kashmir, hesitated whether he should join India or Pakistan, but eventually signed a treaty to join India. In 1949, China closed the border between the Nubra Valley and Xinjiang, cutting off the ancient trade route. In 1955, China began building roads near the border connecting Xinjiang and Tibet. He also built the Karakoram Highway with Pakistan. In response, India built a highway along the border connecting Leh and Srinagar, reducing the road between these cities from 16 days to two. The entire state of Jammu and Kashmir is the subject of Indian territorial disputes with Pakistan (Kashmir conflict) and China. In 1999, during the Kargil War, the region almost became the scene of a nuclear war. Administratively, Ladakh, which is part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, was divided into Leh and Kargil districts in 1979. In 1989 there were clashes between Buddhists and Muslims. In 1993, following calls for greater independence from the Kashmiri-dominated state government, the Ladakh Autonomous Mountain Development Board was established.

culture

The culture of the region is primarily associated with architecture, which was influenced by the architecture of Tibet and India. There are many monasteries located in the most incomprehensible places - on the ledges of high mountains, on the edges of gorges. The Ladakh monastery is called gompa, which means "a deserted, secluded place." The gompa is the center of any village, and the number of monks in each monastery is replenished due to the local tradition among the villagers to send one of their sons as monks.

In addition to architecture, Ladakh is known for its religious festivals. Hemis Monastery is the center of the annual Masked Dance Festival. Held depending on the counts of the monks, in June or July, timed to coincide with the birthday of Guru Padmasambhava. This religious festival is grandly celebrated every 12 years in the year of the monkey.

Kingdom of Ladakh, or Little Tibet - lost in the Indian Himalayas, a high-mountain region sandwiched between China and Pakistan. It was here, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, that I most clearly felt what real Tibet is, the culture, religion and traditions of which have been miraculously conserved in Ladakh for more than a century. Unlike, by the way, from central Tibet, whose appearance is gradually losing its authenticity due to the cultural expansion of China. Thousand-year-old Buddhist monasteries, ancient rituals, Tibetan villages here peacefully coexist with the Muslim culture of Kashmiris and Hindus from the plains of the country.

But even those who are not at all interested in history and Eastern religions will gain a lot of impressions in Ladakh. Space landscapes, camels and yaks, alpine lakes, snowy peaks of the Himalayan peaks allow you to literally jump into heaven. After all, the average height of the Ladakh kingdom is more than 3,000 meters above sea level, and some settlements and roads are above 5,000 meters!

The main thing is to prepare mentally and physically so that you don’t feel dizzy from extreme heights and fantastic impressions.

How to get there

Ladakh is located in the northernmost state of India Jammu and Kashmir. And no matter where you are heading here, your path will run through. How to fly to the Indian capital is described in detail. But then the most interesting begins, since the road to Ladakh gives emotions almost more than Ladakh itself.

By plane

It would seem that the most convenient way to get to Ladakh is a plane to the capital of the region - city ​​of Leh(or "Le"). Direct flights lasting about an hour and a half are operated by many Indian airlines (Vistara, Jet Airways, GoAir, AirIndia). Average prices range from 90 to 180 USD (5,000-10,000 RUB) one way.

It is traditionally better to monitor tickets in a few months, as back-to-back prices will soar to 250-350 USD (15,000–20,000 RUB) one way. But do not rush to buy air tickets, because this method seems optimal only at first glance.

I advise you to at least get there ground transport because:

The city of Leh is located at an altitude of 3500 meters above sea level. Any climber will tell you that it is best to climb gradually. More than once I met people who arrived in Ladakh by plane and for the first 2 days barely moved their legs, or even simply lying in a bed in the room due to mountain sickness. And the road by car (with a smooth climb, overnight stays and sightseeing at intermediate points) will take you at least 2-3 days, which will allow the body to acclimatize.

Yes, back to Delhi (subject to availability of funds), I advise you to fly by plane to admire the views of the Himalayas from above. But to deprive yourself of the pleasure of driving at least in one direction along one of the most high-mountainous and beautiful roads in the world - I consider it blasphemy!

By bus/car

Manali-Leh highway was one of my main goals, for which I generally went to Ladakh. The route passes through 4 highest mountain passes in the world (the most dangerous - Rohtang - 3978m, the highest - TangLang - 5325m).

To a quiet tourist the village of Manali in the foothills of the Himalayas, it is easy to get overnight by bus from. The price ranges from 10 to 25 USD (600-1500 INR, Indian rupees), depending on the class and the availability of air conditioning.

In Manali, at an altitude of 2000m, surrounded by century-old pines, visible snow caps of 8-thousanders and a meditative atmosphere, I recommend spending a couple of days for acclimatization. At the same time, buy a ticket for a tourist minibus to Lech. On it from the subtropics you find yourself in the "open space" of the Tibetan highlands!

All 500 kilometers of this way, my body was torn apart by opposite feelings: either to admire the fantastic, constantly changing landscapes outside the window, or to close my eyes for fear of falling into the abyss at the next dashing maneuver of the Hindu driver, or to fall into oblivion from motion sickness and attacks of mountain sickness. But everything is real for a person with average physical training. I’ll tell you later how to minimize the effect of “mining” on the body. In chapter"Safety".

Commercial minibuses leave Manali at 2-3 am, and arrive as lucky (considering road repairs, avalanches and traffic jams caused by this on the serpentine). Usually 15-20 hours of travel. The price ranges from 20 to 30 USD (1200-2000 INR) one way. If you are traveling with a large group, then you can rent an entire jeep with a driver (from 300 USD per car) and stop for a photo wherever your heart desires.

There is also an option 1.5 times cheaper on a public bus (with an overnight stay in the village of Keylong), but it is better to comprehend the “conveniences” of Indian “bass locales” in less extreme conditions (for example, on the Delhi-Manali stretch).

FINAL COMPARISON:

• Plane Delhi-Leh = 100-170 USD (6000-11000 INR)
• Bus Delhi-Manali + minibus Manali-Leh = 30-55 USD (1800-3500 INR)

There is another specific option - road Le-Srinagar-Delhi. The way to Srinagar is not so extreme in terms of road quality compared to the Manali Le highway and no less beautiful. But keep in mind that the city of Srinagar is located in a turbulent border region with Pakistan and armed conflicts are not uncommon here. Fall 2016 bus service with Srinagar was generally stopped due to terrorist activity, which forced your humble servant to return from Ladakh by the same route.

Clue:

Ladakh - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow - 2:30

Kazan - 2:30

Samara − 1:30

Yekaterinburg - 0:30

Novosibirsk 1:30

Vladivostok 4:30

When is the season. When is the best time to go

The harsh climate of Ladakh directly affects the transport accessibility of the region, and, accordingly, the period of visiting by tourists. In winter, here is a real pole of cold and deserted. And in the summer - not only quite comfortable time for mountain hiking, but also relative freedom from crowds of tourists (given the remoteness and vastness of the lands of Ladakh).

"Dead" season (November-April)

Between November and April mountain passes at the entrances to Ladakh it is covered with snow and the road is simply closed. Therefore, the only way to get to the kingdom in winter is by plane. The temperature at this time of the year can reach -30 ° C, and housing for tourists, as a rule, is not heated. Yes, and most residents already in October begin to gather to work in warm climes (in the same Goa or).

High season (May-October)

With the first rays of the spring sun, Ladakh literally comes to life. Flowering trees and green pastures in this stone-mountainous desert are beginning to please the eye, and open roads attract tourists. During the peak season (July-August) during the day, a comfortable temperature is above +20 ° C, but at night do not hesitate to ask the owner of the hotel / guesthouse for an extra blanket, as the thermometer can drop to zero.

There is practically no rain in this area, but you should be careful with the mountain sun - your face in Ladakh can easily get burned. So stock up on sunscreen and also buy yourself some protective masks (given the rocky terrain, it is quite dusty here, especially when moving).

conditional areas. Descriptions and Features

The capital of Ladakh, the city of Leh, is a real transit point for those who later move to explore the monasteries, mountain paths and lakes of Ladakh. The city center can be divided into 3 parts:

If we talk about the places close to Leh, adapted for the traveler, then the entire infrastructure is mainly concentrated around:

• the largest monasteries: Tiksi, Hemis, Likkir, Lamayuru, etc.
• mountain lakes: Pangong Tso, Tso Kar and Tso Moriri.

What are the prices for holidays

Everything in Ladakh is 30-50% more expensive than in lowland India. And this is not greed, because the cost of delivering goods to this remote region costs a pretty penny.

Housing

Booking a room in advance (as in any other part of India) is completely optional here. Unless, it will be relevant to do this on the first night, so that those tired from the road do not settle in the first expensive hotel that came across (which I did to my misfortune). You can book a room in advance at. Of course, unlike the rest of India, renting a room for 3 USD (200 INR) will not work here. Compare accommodation prices.

Average prices:

• for a normal double with hot water and wi-fi - 9-13 USD (600-800 INR) (on booking sites - from 15 USD);
• for a room in a good hotel - from 15-20 USD

They are not traded here as willingly as in flat India, but at the beginning / end of the season the price can be brought down. For example, this beautiful room with mountain views at Chow Guest House (Changspa area) at the end of September 2016 cost me 7 USD (450 INR) at the end of September 2016, and upon renewal - 6 USD:

Food

I have always considered a bottle of water and a bowl of rice as an indicator of prices in India:

• 1 liter of water: in Ladakh - 30 INR (20 INR national average).
• serving of rice: in Ladakh – 80 INR (50 INR national average)

Fruits are all imported, so they are more expensive.

The average price for a cheap lunch in a local eatery starts from 1.5 USD (100 INR), for a good lunch in a tourist cafe - 3-5 USD (250-300 INR)

Excursions

The price for a standard excursion day (departure to the monasteries or lakes adjacent to the city of Leh) is about 15-25 USD (1000-1500 INR). Local travel agencies, as a rule, set a general price for renting a jeep with a driver, and the task of recruiting people is already in your interest.

Main attractions. What to watch

Nature and Buddhist religion are the 2 main components of the Himalayas and 2 main objects of study for tourists.

If you did not come to Ladakh as part of a group with a personal Russian-speaking guide, in the purchase organized excursions little meaning. I quoted the prices above, keep in mind that the driver will actually be your guide. And reading everything yourself, having reached by bus or a ride, will be more effective than his couple of slurred comments in English.

Top 5

And now about everything in order.

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

The loyalty of the Indian government to Buddhist culture has made it possible to preserve the thousand-year-old Tibetan monasteries in Ladakh in their original form. Most of them are located at a distance of up to 100 km from Leh, which allows you to see 2-3 temples in detail in 1 day.

To become a spectator of the morning services (which start at 6-7 am), you can stay overnight and even eat not only in nearby guest houses, but also in the monastery itself, including for free. However, for this you need to let the monks know that you are really interested in their culture, and not just decided to save money.

Of the 4 monasteries where I asked for an overnight stay, I was refused only two, since at that time they were Buddhist festivals, and all places were occupied by pilgrim monks from other regions. Entrance to most monasteries is also free, or it costs no more than 1 USD (50 INR).

The most interesting are the following monasteries:

• She, Tiksi, Stakna, Hemis, Stok (east of Leh, towards Manali)
• Spituk, Likir, Alchi, Diskit and Lamayuru (west of Leh towards Srinagar)

Tiksi Monastery (XV century, 20 km from Lech)

The largest and most beautiful monastery in Ladakh is, in fact, a copy of the famous palace of the Dalai Lama. This is a whole city, the narrow streets of which stretch upwards - to the main building of the monastery, where services are held (in Indian, "pujas"). Climbing to the top, I tell you, is not easy.

Inside 2 floors is occupied by a 15-meter statue of Maitreya Buddha - the largest for the monasteries of Ladakh. And from the roof of Tiksi, a magnificent view of the Indus River valley opens up.

Hemis Monastery (11th century, rebuilt in the 16th century, 45 km from Lech)

The birthplace of one of the Kagyu Buddhist schools. It is famous for the fact that here, it seems, they found the Tibetan Gospel, according to which Jesus, before the start of the sermon in Palestine, wandered on Tibetan land, gaining wisdom from the ancient lamas.

Stakna Monastery (XVI century, 25 km from Leh)

A small monastery between Hemis and Tiksi, where I happened to spend the night, spending the whole night talking with young monks in their cell.

It is in these, not the most popular places, that I recommend that you stay in order to fully feel the "zen" in silence and without crowds of tourists.

Likir Monastery (XI century, 58 km from Leh)

The appearance of Likir, located in a beautiful mountain gorge, is further adorned with a gilded Buddha statue under open sky.

And on the territory of the monastery there is a small monastic school for boys, whose funny games can be watched in the evenings.

Alchi Monastery (X century, 68 km from Leh)

Although the outside of Alchi does not arouse admiration (small one-story buildings in the river valley), it is the oldest of the monasteries I visited. The frescoes of Alchi are the oldest in Ladakh. Just think, they are over 900 years old!

It is to preserve this relic that photography is prohibited here, but if you are careful and without a flash, then you can try.

Museums. Which are worth a visit

There are few museums as such in Ladakh: in Leh there are mineral museum(The Himalayas are rich in unique fossils). And those who are fond of military history can go to Indian Armed Forces Museum. After all, the state of Jammu and Kashmir is the eternal subject of disputes between India, Pakistan and China. The main mosque of Leh, not far from the main street Main Bazar, will also be interesting for inspection. But, of course, from secular institutions, in the first place is the residence of the ancient Tibetan kings.

Leh Palace

Built in the 16th century, the palace, traditionally for such structures, rises above the entire city. In this 9-storey building (there is still no higher in all of Ladakh) for 2 centuries royal people lived. From the outside, the palace is not particularly beautiful, but from its roof a curious view of the seething life of Lech opens up.

The restoration of the premises was undertaken quite recently, and there is nothing special to do inside. But the entrance fee is already charged 3 USD (200 INR). One way or another, it will be interesting to climb up to the walls of the palace for free. After all, in addition to the main road, making a detour, many pedestrian lanes lead to it, in which I got lost more than once, looking at the life of the locals.

Shanti Stupa and viewpoint

On the opposite side of the palace, you can look at the city from a recently built stupa. 500 steep steps are more difficult than climbing up to the Royal Palace, but the view from here opens up on a larger scale. I recommend coming to the stupa at dawn or at sunset. Right at this moment rocky mountains, snow caps of the Himalayas and the city valley play with amazing colors.

natural attractions

Lake Pangong Tso (150 km southeast of Leh)

The most fantastic landscapes in the Himalayas can be presented to you by alpine lakes. The purest blue water, merging with the sky, surrounded by snowy peaks, grazing herds of yaks - a real primeval relaxation! Pangong Tso on the border with China is the most popular of these lakes. It is because of the proximity of the “Celestial Empire” that tourists must issue a permit worth 7.5 USD (500 INR). Permission to visit the border area is issued at any travel agency in Lech. Then you can choose: either go on your own on a local bus, shaking all day for 4 USD (270 INR) one way. Or use the services of travel companies that send minibuses there for 30 USD (2000 INR) round trip. It will be more convenient, since the bus schedule (3 times a week) involves 2 nights on the lake, and the minibus is a more time-efficient route with one overnight stay. Accommodation: ranging from small Spartan rooms to renting tents.

Lakes Tso-Kar and Tso-Moriri (150 and 200 km from Leh towards Manali)

The most remote lake, Tso Moriri, by and large is no different from Pangong. The main advantage is the presence of hot geysers along the way. But Tso-Kar Lake is located almost on the Manali-Leh highway, so you can drive to it on the way to Ladakh (if you rented a jeep entirely).

Magnetic Hill (30km west of Leh)

Right on the Leh-Srinagar highway, you can observe a unique gravitational phenomenon. A car that stops at a certain line, at first glance, begins to roll uphill, and not downhill. In fact, this is just a joke for tourists and there is no magnetic anomaly here. Due to the mountain landscape, the illusion is created that the road goes uphill, although in fact it is the other way around - a slight descent.

Food. What to try

The cuisine of Ladakh is an unusual mixture of Tibetan, Indian and Kashmiri-Muslim dishes with pseudo-European ones. Traditionally, Asians are not good at cooking European dishes, so it is best to eat the prevailing Tibetan cuisine here.

Famous Tibetan manty dumplings "Mo-mo" although they are not cheap by Indian standards (from 2 USD per serving), they are mandatory for use. There are both vegetables and meat. For compulsory testing also - Tibetan bread "Tsampa" barley flour tea with milk and yak butter and noodle soup "Thukpa".

Holidays

Religious festivals and demonstration shows of ancient rites for tourists in Ladakh are held regularly (both in Leh itself and in nearby monasteries). To find out which of them you fall on by the dates of your trip, go to the state Leh Tourist Office(Jammu & Kashmir Tourist Reception Office) in the very center on Old Leh Road. The main thing to see in Ladakh is Tibetan mystery "Tsam"(or - "Cham") - the famous ritual dances of monks in masks.

It is noteworthy that most religious festivals designed specifically for local residents, and not tourists (and, accordingly, more authentic), are held in late autumn / early spring, that is, “on the verge of the season”.

And if you are very lucky (like me) - your arrival may coincide with national holiday Naropa, held every 4 years by analogy with the famous Hindu Kumbh Mella. This is a kind of religious "open-air", where local high-ranking lamas read sermons on the stage instead of rock stars!

A real find for a travel photographer, because this event brings together Tibetans from all over the Himalayas. I managed to see enough of the wonderful grandparents in national costumes.

Safety. What to watch out for

The main thing to be afraid of in Ladakh is not people, wild animals or natural disasters, but the reactions of your own body to extreme altitudes from 3500 to 5500 m. I wrote above about how the choice of transport can affect altitude sickness. In addition, try to sit down at the beginning of the bus cabin so that nausea from mountain serpentine does not add to mountain sickness. Secondly, help your body with medicines: from vitamin C, plenty of water and aspirin for prevention, and ending with Diacarb tablets in case of serious headache attacks. Ayurvedic Indian tablets "Ashvagadanda" and banal ginger helped me to ventilate the lungs in conditions of oxygen starvation. Well, give your body a break: for example, it’s not worth going from Leh (3500 m) on the very first day to Pangong Lake (4350 m).

There is much less crime here than in any Indian state. And the only fear, in addition to high-altitude overloads, remains the territorial proximity to the troubled Kashmir. But the military, whom you will meet here constantly, can only be thanked for maintaining calm in Ladakh.

Things to do

In addition to spiritual and natural mysteries, mountains always attract travelers. active species recreation.

Trekking in the mountains

Hiking routes of any complexity lasting from 1 day to one and a half weeks will be organized for you at any travel agency in Lech. If you can go on a one-day trek without spending the night on your own (from any monastery and village in the Indus Valley), then it is better to hire an escort for long trips with tents deep into the mountains so as not to get lost. Also in Ladakh there are several Russian-speaking travel agencies and guides ( hiking trails, excursions, photo tours), which are easy to find on the Internet. Although the nature of Ladakh is unusual, it is quite similar, so I recommend limiting yourself to a trek with 1-2 overnight stays.

Among the popular destinations I will highlight:

• treks in the Hemis valley
• hikes from Leh and Lamayuru to the Zanskar Range
• treks to outlying monasteries (eg Ridzong)
• climbing to the base camp of the top of Stok Kangri

Rafting

Rafting on mountain rivers (Indus is a little easier, and Zanskar is more difficult) can also be arranged by any travel agency in Lech. The duration of rafting and kayaking varies from small 1-2-hour walks to 5-day expeditions.

Camel rides

In the Nubra Valley there is a real alpine desert! You can feel the contrast of snowy peaks and white dunes, sitting on two-humped beauties, in the villages of Khundar and Dixit.

Souvenirs and shopping. What to bring as a gift

Leh souvenir shops sell traditional Tibetan items and Buddhist ritual items. And this can be done the cheapest way in India, since it is from Ladakh that souvenir products are further distributed to the markets of Delhi and Goa.

From main:

Visiting Indians haggle more than proud Tibetans. The most expensive souvenirs are at the monasteries and in shops on the main street of Leh Main Bazar. To save money, I recommend visiting a small souvenir market on Changspa Road.

How to move around the region

There are no railways so high in the mountains, so travel is only by road and horse-drawn transport or on foot. Although Ladakh seems harsh and deserted, in fact, in terms of movement, not everything is as scary as it seems at first glance.

Taxi and public transport

For some reason, there are no motor rickshaws in Ladakh (unlike the rest of India), and a taxi by Indian standards is quite expensive: a couple of kilometers around the city - 2-3 USD (150-200 INR). And taxi trips to nearby monasteries are completely uneconomical. Public transport much cheaper: from 1 USD (from 50 INR for an hour trip) and goes to all the main monasteries in the area.

But there is a much more interesting and economical way to travel in Ladakh…

Hitch-hiking

This section can be safely called the “mentality of the Ladakhians”, because, despite the expensive gasoline, the traveler will always be helped in this region. In no corner of the world, hitchhiking has not seemed so easy and convenient to me. From being able to stop a motorcycle for short trips around the city, ending with 100-kilometer hauls and heart-to-heart conversations with Kashmiri truckers.

Transport rental

Ladakh is a real motorcycle tourist destination. On the same "road of death" Manali-Leh, many lovers of a two-wheeled horse tend to drive. Unlike car rental (which you almost never see in the highlands, and I would not recommend it to you without a local driver), there are many motorcycle rental points (full-fledged, not low-powered scooters) in both Leh and Manali. But keep in mind - only experienced bikers can conquer high mountain passes on the iconic Anfield.

Ski holidays

5 things to do in this region

1. Drive to Ladakh by land, crossing passes above 5000 m.
2. Stay overnight at a Buddhist monastery
3. Go hiking in the Himalayas or spend the night on the shores of an alpine lake
4. Try the famous Tibetan Mo-mo dumplings
5. Buy a warm sweater made of real angora or yak wool