Indonesia. What to see on Lombok island (Lombok)

Lombok Island, is located in Indonesia between the islands and Sumbawa, and is part of the Lesser Sunda Islands in the Malay archipelago. City Mataram is the main administrative center of the island. 40 km from it there is international Airport, though the number of overseas flights is less. They fly in and. The distance from Mataram Airport to Senggigi is 55 km. You can get there by Damri Damri buses - it's convenient and inexpensive. A new international airport was built in the city of Praya Praya - this is to the south.

Lombok has two seaports one in the southwest of the port of Lembar, the other in the east of the island. You can get to Lombok from other islands, Sumbawa, Flores by ferry, ship (more on that in the next article). There are also private boats and boats, which are also engaged in transportation.

I bought a ticket for 159 thousand rupees, and not for 200, as requested by the husband of the hostess. Travel Tip - Never give money up front. The girl with whom I went on the ship warned that there would be a lot of people and that you need to take care of your things very much, which of course bothered and did not let you relax.

My budget for two incomplete days.

I traveled from the port to Senggigi for 60 thousand rupees + accommodation with a light breakfast 65 thousand * 2 nights = 130 thousand rupees. For all this time I spent 50 thousand rupees on food, including cake and coconut. Drove again to the port 50 thousand rupees.

In continuation of my "great" journey through Indonesia and South East Asia I traveled further east to see the volcano on Flores Island. swam on

Why go to Lombok? Here are beaches with pink and black sand, swimming in a waterfall, beautiful bays, giant trees, and few people :)

And it's very close to Bali. If you are tired of Bali, you can escape to Lombok.

In this post there will be a review of our trip with a photo, and below information about the island: ferries, flights, transport, hotels and a map of Lombok attractions.

Lombok island. General information

Lombok is a Muslim island in Indonesia, located between Bali and West Nusa Tenggara, with a population of 3 million and an area slightly smaller than Bali. 90% of the population is the Sasak people, who are mostly Muslims. There are many mosques here, and there are almost no Hindu temples, as in Bali.

In August 2018, a strong earthquake hit the island of Lombok. Watch the news to find out the current status before the trip.

Our trip to Lombok

The beaches of Lombok

There are two roads between the ferry to Bali and the ferry to Gili: one along the serpentine through the mountains, one along the serpentine along the beaches. The beaches are pretty, but not so breathtaking. There are almost no people there, lovers of lying on a deserted beach will be thrilled :)

Below I will write more about the pink sand beach in Lombok.

And of course, sunsets :)

The most popular beaches among tourists are located in the resort of Senggigi. In the northern part, housing is more democratic in terms of prices, and in the south, more expensive hotels and basic tourism infrastructure (travel companies, restaurants, massages, etc.). Buses run here from the airport, and bemo minibuses from the ports (from ferries to Gili and Bali).

Waterfalls of Lombok

First we went to the neighboring ones, and then drove along Lombok, starting from the north.

There is national park, the main objects in which are Mount Gunung Rinjani (Gunung Rinjani) and two waterfalls. You need to go hiking up the mountain for at least 2 days and 1 night and only with their guide, it costs about $ 100 - it says so everywhere, although of course you can go on your own.

We only went to waterfalls Air Terjun Sindang Gila and Air Terjun Tiu Kelep.

Getting to them is very easy. You need to go to the village of Senaru, after a long climb, travel agencies and hotels begin, here you need to look out for parking, it is large and noticeable, on the right side. We paid 5,000 rupees for parking the bike.

There, local guides begin to attack, who lie that it is impossible without them, because you will get lost, or because it is not allowed, etc. etc., who has enough imagination for what.

Instead of wasting time on useless conversations with them, you need to get out of the parking lot, cross the road and go down 10 meters, there begins a very noticeable descent, at the beginning of which there is a very noticeable ticket office.

The ticket costs 10,000 rupees.

After the checkout, there is such a path that it is simply unrealistic to get lost. Go on the strength of about 10 minutes. The path leads to the first waterfall.

Seryoga bathed in it, I took pictures.

After the first waterfall, you need to climb a little up (back), and from the gazebo with a tiled roof, another path with round cobblestones goes to the left. It is also unrealistic to get lost on it, only in one place you need to wade a little up the river. 20-25 minutes - and you are near the second waterfall. You can even swim near it :)

The water is cool and invigorating, just right for us, the locals are freaking out, but they bathe until their chattering teeth :)

On wikitravel they write that there is such a terrible path that there is no way without a guide, but this is not true, the path is normal, only slippery in places, well, a river 30 cm deep to cross. From the waterfall comes a fine water suspension, similar to drizzling rain.

It is better to immediately go in what you will swim in, and hide the rest in a waterproof bag, and change into dry clothes after overcoming the river on the way back. And quick-drying flip-flops. And protect equipment and papers from getting wet.

Northern part of Lombok (black beaches)

The next cluster of hotels starts near the black beach after the village of Sambelia.

Near it there are two more islands of the Gili archipelago: Gili Awang and Gili Sulat, but there is no regular transport on them, you need to look for a boatman and pay him a lot of money.

There are no cafes in the area, so we ordered food from the owners of the homestay (the portions are huge and very cheap!).

Kuta Lombok and nearby beaches

Overnight in Kuta. Lombok has its own Kuta, and she is also surfer resort, like the Balinese Kuta, only there are many times fewer surfers here, and the atmosphere is much more calm and relaxed and the prices are lower than in Bali.

Before booking.com, there were very few hotels in Kuta Lombok, you had to go to homestays and find out about room availability and prices, but now the situation has changed - there are already more than 500 offers for every taste and budget, from simple guesthouses to chic resorts.

Near Kuta Lombok there are several beaches. We hit the low tide (it was 8 am), the water level dropped by three meters, a very interesting sight.

The local fisherman said that at 10 o'clock the water would rise. Note that a fisherman from a remote village on a remote island knows English :) In Kuta itself, the water rose already at 9.

In the city of Kuta Lombok, the beach is free, and on other beaches there are boys who require 5,000 rupees for entry.

On the Pantai Seger beach we drove back 50 meters and drove through the restaurant for free.

On the Pantai Tanjung Ann beach they said that we were just going to look and were not going to swim, and they let us through. We took a few photos, at the exit we were told something about the photo, but we just left, no one rushed to catch up with us.

In principle, 5000 rupees is a small amount of money ($0.4), but it is not at all clear what to pay for there. Rubbish is lying around, there are no toilets, showers and changing rooms, all the more so, a broken road leads to the beaches.

At low tide, the spectacle is surreal, the sea recedes by 200-300 meters, and waves are splashing somewhere in the distance.

Interesting sand, similar to beads.

While the tide is out, people go fishing with nets.

And finally, panorama.

Tide times vary, see surf-forecast.com for the current timetable and wave availability.

How to get to Lombok

The distance between Bali and Lombok is only 35 km across the strait. Between airports 120 km.

There are 3 ways to get from Bali to Lombok:

1. speedboat. Fast, expensive, without a bike. Prices reach up to 1,200,000 rupees ($ 100) round-trip for 1 passenger. During the auction, we were already offered 500,000 rupees ($42).

2. Ferry. Slow, very cheap, with a bike. We paid 125,000 rupees ($10) for the two of us plus the bike. A ticket for one foot passenger cost 40,000 rupees.

3. Airplane. Fast, comfortable, price from $13 one way.

Ferry Bali Lombok

Since the island of Lombok is located to the east of Bali, ferries leave from Padangbai Bay. In theory, they run around the clock every hour, in practice we were able to leave at 10 am, loading started around 9.30. Before that, some cargo ferries came and went.

Some of the bikes drive in first and cluster closer to the walls and in all sorts of niches. The rest of the space is occupied by trucks, cars, buses, etc. Our bike got a little scratched in transit, so it's best to put it as close to a wall as possible, ideally in a niche, because trucks and buses pack very closely. At the end of the loading, more bikes drive into the vacant place.

At the entrance to the port of Padangbai, we checked the documents for the bike and the rights. At the exit from Padangbai, everyone was checked, and we were told to go.

In principle, there are no such traffic jams in Lombok as in Bali, so it will be convenient with a car there.

Before leaving for the ferry, crowds of merchants, musicians, beggars seep in, then it becomes freer.

It's better to sit outside. The speed is such that it does not blow, there is a shadow. And they smoke inside: (Some ferries have a room for lying down. There is a conditionally soft and conditionally clean floor and it is forbidden to smoke, but it is difficult to find a place, you need to immediately run to take it.

On the ferry we met a Spanish girl from Barcelona who lives and works on. Practice Spanish with her :)

The pitching was small and only in a few areas. You can work on the laptop or read. There are no outlets.

We drove for almost 5 hours. That is, if you want to catch boats to Gili from this ferry (the last one at 17), then you need to go right away, without lunch in a cafe and long photographing of landscapes. The same number sailed back, but then hung out in Padangbai Bay for 1.5 hours, waiting for something.

The ferry sells some food and water, but 3-4 times more expensive than in stores. Considering that everyone around is chewing something, it is impossible not to get hungry.

First ferry. Not ours, eh!

We are first in line. The moped is still clean and does not know where we will go on it. We, too, there are only outlines of the route :)

The truck almost propped up the roof of the ferry. And in order to squeeze through to the door leading to the deck, you need to crawl through the gap between the truck with green bananas (on the left) and the wall. If someone fat did not have time to crawl through before loading cars and buses, then at least go in the hold.

Already launched faster and more comfortable ferries from Bali to Lombok.

See schedules and ticket prices at. There are also reviews of tourists and ratings of carriers.

Flying to Lombok

A flight from Denpasar Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS, Bali) to Lombok takes only 20-30 minutes and costs from $13 one way.

To find cheap flights, I usually compare prices using several aggregators. They all have the same principle - they look for tickets in the databases of hundreds of airlines, but their databases may differ, so the price will be better in one or the other.

• - here you can select several airports of departure and arrival at once, search with a range of departure/arrival dates and trip length, and the site guarantees a connection even if you fly with low-cost airlines and the first flight is delayed.
• - there are good prices for tickets from Ukraine.
• - convenient calendar of low prices.

Transport around the island

Lombok by motorcycle/moped

We brought our bike to Lombok from Bali by ferry, but you can also rent it on the spot: at the airport, Senggigi or Kuta.

Motorcycle travel insurance

Regular policies do not cover riding motorcycles and mopeds. Separate sports insurance is required. The best option is to buy an insurance policy for active days from - this is international insurance, issued online, even if you are already on a trip, and covers riding a motorcycle.

Car rental in Lombok

There is almost no traffic on Lombok, there are no traffic jams, the traffic is relaxed, the locals drive normally, so it should be fine here and by car. There are many trucks and horse-drawn vehicles. The roads are either excellent (70%), or in pits or off-road at all.

Attractions of Lombok island on the map

Here is the map interesting places Lombok

For orientation in Lombok, they work well, in both applications you can download maps and then use them offline.

Where to stay: accommodation in Lombok

Recently, a lot of hotels, hotels, hostels, homestays, etc. have been built on the island of Lombok. The owners have already realized that renting accommodation via the Internet is profitable, and have registered their offers on booking.com. Previously, I had to travel around the villages and ask questions, especially in non-tourist places.

🛌 There are also more than 100 offers on the island: these are both rooms and entire villas. One can find unique offers such as overwater bungalows or treehouses or villas with an infinity pool.

If you haven't signed up for Airbnb yet:

Theoretically, you can put up a tent on some uncrowded beach. There are few such dense buildings as in Bali, the locals are quite peaceful and calm.

Excursions

Viator - TripAdvisor travel agency - offers: trips around the island by car or bicycle, and trekking through the jungle and the Rinjani volcano, and snorkeling in the Gili Islands, and getting to know the local culture of Sasak.

When to go to Lombok: seasons and weather

High season in Lombok is July and August when it's dry and it's vacation time. During these months it is better to book everything in advance.

transitional season - from May to June and September. The weather is mostly dry and there are no crowds on Gili and Kuta.

Low season, aka rainy season - October-April. It can be rainy and trekking on Gunung Rijani is not possible (the national park is closed), but the best surfing on Lombok is during these months.

We were on the island of Lombok in November, there was no rain, and no crowds either.

Lombok or Bali?

These are two completely different islands, it's hard to choose between them :) They have their own special atmosphere, many attractions and activities, but also more people. Lombok is like Bali in miniature, everything is more relaxed here.

Bottom line: our review of the holiday on the island of Lombok

If you have time in Indonesia, and everyone has already looked at Bali, then Lombok is definitely worth going to. It is different and interesting in its own way. It is best to rent a motorcycle and ride around the island yourself.

Or in Thailand.

Lombok - an island located to the east of Bali. The name of the island was due to the specific shape, reminiscent of hot pepper, which grows in large quantities on this island (lombok - in Indonesian - the name of the pepper).

Lombok's landscapes are remarkably picturesque and varied, from fine-grained sandy beaches to high mountain peaks, from dry steppes to humid tropical jungles and thickets. Locals worship the Rinjani volcano, this is one of the 4 most high mountains Indonesia. You can climb the volcano, accompanied by experienced guides, and see the northern coast of Lombok and the Java Sea from the top, and if you're lucky, then the island of Sulawesi, located far to the north.

The population of the island is mainly engaged in agriculture and fishing; the island has a textile industry. The government is trying to stimulate the development of the traditional crafts of the island, of which the Penujak pottery, gold and silver thread fabrics of the town of Sukarara are most famous.

tourist areas

Tourism infrastructure is mainly concentrated in the south west coast islands, near Senggigi beach. Most of the city's hotels, including well-known tourist chains, are located here.

Near Senggigi beach, at a distance of 9 km, there are 3 small coral islands in the sea: Gili Air, Gili Meno or Gili Trawangan. This perfect place for diving (pristine corals and a large number of colorful fish), as well as for a picnic on a pristine sandy beach.

Near Lombok are also small islands with a well-developed tourism infrastructure, attractive not only for diving, but also for secluded recreation.

• GILI AIR. White sand beaches, palm trees and a peaceful atmosphere make this island a real paradise. Cars and motorcycles are prohibited here. The mode of transportation is bicycles and horse-drawn carts. Numerous hotels and bungalows are located throughout the island. On the eastern side of the island you can see a stunning sunrise over Mount Rinjini neighboring island Lombok. And sitting on the beach of the western part of the island, you can enjoy the sunset over extinct volcano Agung (Bali Islands).
• GILI TRAWANGAN. The biggest of all three islands, known for its youth parties. Most of the hotels are located in the eastern part of the island.
• GILI MENO. Surrounded by white sands beautiful beaches, Gili Meno lies between the other two islands described above. Here you can relax, unwind and walk on the gentle sea sand. Here, as in all the Gili Islands, everyone gets around by bike or horse. Hotels are located throughout the island.

Sport

The island offers facilities for golf, tennis, squash, water sports sports. Close to Lombok island great amount variety of dive sites.

Dive Sites in South Lombok

• The Magnet- a ledge in the open sea rises 2 m above the water and reaches a depth of 80 m. Big fish!!! Flocks of mackerel, barracuda, tuna. There are also black tips, gray reef sharks, and, if you're lucky, you can meet hammerhead fish.
• The Skull- an underwater spire rises from a depth of 40 m and is covered with soft corals. There are also a lot of big fish here: white tips, black tips, mackerel, big reef sharks, lots of rays and tuna.
• The Cathedral- ledge-spire, which goes to a depth of 50 m. You can meet sharks, tuna, mackerel and flocks of barracuda. Found at a depth of 40 m big cave. For advanced divers only.

Dive sites off the Gili Islands

• Shark Point located east of Gili Trawangan. A popular spot for a morning dive. Consists of three levels (24 m, 20 m, 18 m); many hard and soft corals, as well as ocean turtles. There are reef sharks, Napoleon fish and conger eels.
• Volkers Golf course about 500m east of Shark Point and starts at a depth of 30m. This golf course-like spot gives you the chance to see sharks, schools of mackerel and doctorfish. Due to the depth and strong undercurrent, this dive is intended for advanced divers.
• Meno Wall located to the west of Gili Men Island, diving depth up to 18 m. There are a large number of small coral fish, as well as turtles.
• air wall located to the west of Gili Air Island. A very beautiful underwater wall, covered with soft corals, glows in yellow-orange colors depending on the position of the sun. The main attraction of this wall is a block of corals (22 m), where you can find a lot of all kinds of underwater life: scorpion fish, shrimps, sea needles, as well as thousands of other fish. There are reef sharks.
• Popular morning dives at two points north of Gili Trawangan are Coral Fan Garden And Basket Coral Garden. The first few meters you feel like you are in an aquarium - schools of groupers, fusiliers, and deeper groupers, butterfly fish, flute fish, octopuses and scorpion fish. There are stingrays and sharks.
• Frogfish Point. One of my favorite diving spots is just east of Gili Air. A giant coral block from 5m to 18m welcomes you. You will find igloo fish, frogfish scorpion fish, shrimp here.
• Manta point. During the rainy season, when the sea fills with plankton, manta rays can be seen at this place (south of Gili Trawangan). There are turtles and sharks.
• Malang Reef. The underwater canyon has created a small plateau that starts from a depth of 10 m and goes up to 40 m. Here you can see everything: manta rays, rays, scorpion fish, lionfish, spiny lobsters.

Dive sites near Senggigi beach

• Nipah Slope. An impressive slope going down to a depth of 60 m. Between 10 and 25 m there are a lot of beautiful corals. Variety of coral fish. Turtles, sharks, shrimps and crabs come across.
• Malimbu Slope. A long slope ending at a depth of 30 m. You can see sharks, blue spotted rays, barracudas.
• shark point. A large plateau that starts at a depth of 10 m and ends at a depth of 40 m. You can see sharks, turtles and all the variety of coral fish.
• Alang Alang Wall. A wall that starts at a depth of 16m and goes down to a depth of 35m. Lots of beautiful corals. There are sharks, turtles and coral fish. Great place for a night dive.

TOURIST ANSWERS:

So what can you see beautiful island Lombok:

Tanjung-An (Tanjung A "an)

Nice area next to Kuta beach. The sand there is unique in that it looks like pepper granules. That is, a rather large sand, which many tourists try to take away for souvenirs. This beach is guarded from early morning until night, which is great, because there are no hawkers roaming the beach, harassing tourists. Although there are still some, and, basically, these are children and peaceful villagers trying to earn a living, they are quite good-natured and not intrusive. You can often buy good quality sarongs and kalapa muda (coconut juice, in short) from them: the vendors will crack open a coconut for you, and if you're lucky, they'll also give you a straw or even a glass - pure thrill!

Narmada Water Park (Taman Narmada)

Located 10 km east of Mataram, the park was a resting place for local kings at one time. The park has a Hindu temple, a pool and a fountain (which is called the "Youth Fountain" because it is believed that it prolongs the life of those who drink water from it). Entrance tickets to the park cost around Rp 4000, but sometimes "foreigners" have to pay up to Rp 10000. Despite these strange prices, the place is worthwhile, beautiful and useful. True, for some reason it is a little abandoned, but all the same, holidays are held here on Sundays, and in general the park is very popular among the people of Lombok, who flock there to have a picnic and swim in a large pool replenished with fresh water from forest springs. This is a great place to see what the locals do in their free time, as well as learn more about traditional games.

Air Terjun Sindang Gila

In translation, the name means "Slightly crazy waterfalls" or "crazy waterfalls". This waterfall is located near the village of Senaru on the slopes of Mount Rinjani. When you drive to the falls, prepare for a not-so-pleasant welcome: mocking staff at the gate, annoying vendors of all sorts of things, intrusive guides who start the tour without your consent. It is worth noting that you absolutely do not need any guide to go down the steps to the main area of ​​​​the waterfall and climb up after. There is only one path leading down from the entrance gate to the waterfall. And the waterfall is impressive, because the waters flow “very vertically”, with a roar, from a great height. I hope that the money that is taken from tourists at the entrance goes to improving the condition of the waterfall, since the surrounding area is usually covered with a layer of garbage left by sloppy visitors. At least that was the case until 2011, when the regional government launched a modernization program to improve the amenities at the base of the falls - trash cans and stuff to make it look more decent. Get ready for the fact that you have to go down the stairs for about twenty minutes, and then up again - this is the hardest, and requires effort, especially on a hot day.

Air Terjun Tiu Kelep

This is the second waterfall next to Senaru. Located 1 hour walk from the village, it's better to find a reputable local guide if you still have a regular driver willing to show you the way. In order to get to the second waterfall, follow the path down to the first waterfall, and then you have to go upstream. Shoes are not recommended, or they must be very strong, as you will have to wade through the rivers - sometimes you will have to walk 50 meters or so on the water. But this waterfall has a deep pool where you can swim or even jump off a cliff into the water, and there is also a tunnel that can be used as water slide. Here is a natural water park for you!

Air Terjun Betara Lenjang

The third Senarian waterfall. The truth is, you can't just get close to him. Hike to this waterfall requires advance planning and in general, it is "shown" only for experienced climbers, or at least with a local guide (but with special equipment).

Pusuk Monkey Forest

Climbing a winding road through amazing mountain landscapes is one way to get to Bangsal. So, on the way you will find the so-called “monkey forest”, where numerous wild monkeys live in the jungle. You can take some food with you and feed the hungry little monkeys, but be careful and keep your bags, backpacks and shiny objects tight. You can drive through the forest on a scooter, but walking, in my opinion, is prettier.

Mawun Beach

This huge beach is not very popular among tourists, but it is simply beautiful! It all depends on the day of the week and the time of day, of course, but in general, this beach with soft white sand and turquoise water is quite deserted. Sometimes there are strong waves. The beach is located in a secluded area - in an almost closed bay, which can be easily reached by scooter or bicycle.

Pink Beach

So, to get there, you need a good driver or strong nerves (especially if you are going there on a scooter). The road to this beach is quite difficult, since it is difficult to call these roads even roads. But, when you overcome all the hardships of bumps and bumps, you will be rewarded with the beauties of a deserted quiet beach. Yes, with pink sand, which consists of the smallest particles of colored corals. The stunning view from the nearby hills is amazing and by the way the popular Tanjung Ringgit is nearby.

Mosques and Hindu temples

Unlike Bali, Lombok is predominantly Muslim. That is why you can see and especially HEAR mosques almost everywhere. When you book a hotel, make sure it is away from the mosque. Especially during Ramadan, it will be problematic to sleep (and the first prayer is before dawn).
The Balinese minority in Lombok also have their own temples - Pura Meru, Pura Lingsar, Pura Narmada or Pura Batu Bolong. Most of them are located in the western part of the island and in the area of ​​Mataram and Senggigi.

In the northern part of Lombok rises the huge Gunung Rinjani volcano, the second largest in Indonesia. Most people live here on a fertile plain at the foot of the mountain range. The south of the island is hilly and arid, with low, rough vegetation, and its eroded valleys reminiscent of some of the scenery in Australia.

Having studied the plants and animals of Indonesia, the naturalist of the XIX century. Alfred Wallace divided it into two parts: western, related to South-East Asia, and the eastern one, which is geographically adjacent to Australia and Oceania. He drew a dividing line just across the Lombok Strait, showing that Bali and Lombok belong to different geographical zones. Although this division is not indisputable, its basis - the "Wallace line" - is still recognized.

For many years, Lombok served as a home for the Sasaks, who once came here from Asia through Java and Bali. It is known that they were animists - they animated everything that surrounded them. When Islam entered the island (partially from Bali), part of the population accepted it, but in its own version, Vektu Telu, which retained a significant influence of animism. Now the majority of the inhabitants of the island, to one degree or another, profess Islam. Traveling around Lombok, you will notice many exotic mosques, with domes and bizarre arcades, as well as a considerable number of young women in headscarves and dresses of special cut.

Bali's first intervention attempts began in the 18th century. After a while, most of Lombok was administered from Bali's Karangasem. Later, the Balinese province on Lombok became independent and even tried to subjugate Karangasem. The animistic-Hindu beliefs of the Balinese and the animistic-Muslim religion of the Sasaks were not always in conflict, there was much in common between them. Now most people from Bali live in the west of Lombok and influence the development of local trade and tourism.

At the end of the XIX century. the Dutch, taking advantage of the differences between the Balinese and the Sasaks, joined the latter and then established full control over them. After the Second World War, at the end of the Japanese occupation of Lombok, the Dutch returned to the island for a short time, but as soon as Indonesia declared independence, they left it again.

People

Lombok, named after the local variety of chili pepper, is also called the "Island of a Thousand Mosques". Indeed, the Hindus who came here in the 16th century from the Bali Karangsem settled only on the west coast and number only 100 thousand people. The vast majority of the population - more than two million - Sasaks who profess Islam. They are divided into two groups: vetu tulu (wetu tulu)- almost pagans living in the mountains and observing only some Islamic and Hindu rites, and vetulima (Wetu Lima)- real orthodox Sunnis.

All of them speak Sasak and Bahasa, many understand Balinese and Sumbawa. English is in use only in the most popular resorts.

Where to go on Lombok

On Lombok, you will first of all be conquered by the unhurried, relaxing pace of life, clean beaches and natural, untouched beauty. Visitors to the island pay tribute to the peaceful country roads where water buffaloes roam with their calves, hens run with their chickens, and suddenly the blue of the ocean, dotted with sail points, opens up. Most tourists stay in hotels near Senggigi Beach or on a few outlying Gili Islands, but south Lombok also has good beaches suitable for snorkelling.

The island has several noteworthy temples, palaces and other historical sites, but its rich culture is not conspicuous, not on display. The coexistence of Sasak and Balinese-Hindu traditions means that there are always some ceremonies taking place here, you can get information about them at your hotel.

Some villages specialize in certain crafts: weaving, weaving, pottery or wood carving. For a glimpse of village life, it's best to rent a car or motorbike and take a day trip through the charming countryside. It is worth knowing the opening hours of the markets; in many towns and villages they open in the morning once or twice a week. Roads outside the city limits are free, and pony-drawn carts still predominate as vehicles. (chidomo).

Ampenan, Mataram and Chakranegara

Planes land at Selaparanga Airport, located on the northern border of the capital of Lombok - the city of Mataram. Slow ferries from Bali arrive at the Lembar port dock 10 km south.

Not so long ago old port Ampenan, the administrative center of Mataram and the shopping area of ​​Chakranegara were completely separated from each other. Now it is an urban conglomerate with a quarter of a million people. They are united by a long, wide street that ends in Sveta, the central transport hub of the city.

The port area of ​​Ampenan is already crumbling and almost unused, the narrow streets of the old city are much busier. Most of the population are the descendants of Arab traders, they can be seen in well-kept mosques, where they gather to pray to the cries of muezzins.

South of the center, in Jalan Banjar Tilar Negara, is the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum (Tue-Sun 7.00-14.00, entrance fee). There you can get acquainted with the culture of the island and its nature.

Mataram, the provincial capital of Nusa Tenggara Barat, houses a number of government offices; the tree-lined streets are full of wealthy houses. On the way to the temple, located on top of Mount Gunung Peng Song, which is 6 km to the south, you will be met by flocks of monkeys waiting for handouts.

The commercial center of Lombok, Chakranegara, or simply Chakra, grew up around the palace of the Balinese rajas. Of all the royal buildings, only the Mayura water palace has survived to this day, which previously had halls for receptions and court hearings. The palace stands in the middle of the lake; You can approach it along a paved road guarded by cannons. Here in 1894 the Balinese won a short-term victory over the Dutch troops. A few weeks after this triumph, everything changed and the Dutch continued to conquer the island.

On the opposite side of the street rises Pura Meru, the most big temple on Lombok, built in 1720. Three of its shrines in the form of a meru are dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. A huge wooden drum in the outer courtyard announces the beginning of the festivities and ceremonies to the Hindu community. In the east, the transport hub of Light is crowded with buses (bemo) and pony carts (chidomo). Lombok's largest market is also noisy here.

Near the capital

Hillside gardens and a lake at Narmada, 10 km east of Chakranegara, were laid out in the 19th century. by order of one of the kings: they were supposed to remind him of the Gunung Rinjani volcano and the lake located in its crater (due to old age, he could no longer visit them). Once another rectangular pool was added, the resemblance was no longer so obvious.

In Lingsar, in the north of the Narmada, there is an ecumenical temple Pura Lingsar, designed to unite people of different religions. His superstructure meant for Hindus. Large old sacred eels live in the pool of the Vektu Telu temple, they must be fed with sacrificial boiled eggs, which merchants will sell to you at the gate. In another building lies a stone brought from Gunung-Rinjani, wrapped in white cloth and tied with a yellow sash. It is said that he represents the spirits of the family. Chinese Taoists carry a mirror with them to ward off evil spirits.

In Suranadi Gardens, east of Lingsar, you will also be offered eggs meant for the inhabitants of the pond in the Temple of the Sacred Eels. You can also take a dip in the pool, fed by natural springs, and stay for lunch at the old Dutch-built Suranadi Hotel.

Senggigi beach and Gili Islands

Heading along the coast north of Ampenan, visit the Pura Setara water temple near the bright, colorful Chinese cemetery. The villagers gather next to him to pull the fishing boats ashore and sort the catch. Right in front of Senggigi, on a rock, stands the vaulted Pura Batu Bolong. The ancient Hindu shrine juts out into the sea, providing a great platform from which to enjoy the sunset over the Lombok Strait.

The place where you need to stop first of all is near the Senggigi beach, north of Batubolong. Sometimes the beach slopes down steeply, and there may be rocks or a coral reef right under the surface of the water, so it is better to walk along it in rubber shoes rather than barefoot. The road north of Senggigi follows one of the most charming coastlines in the Indonesian archipelago. Sometimes she climbs to the top of the cliffs, and then rushes down to the very water. Tiny villages hide among the palm trees, and bright spots of sails flicker in the ocean distance.

Sometimes tours from Senggigi and transport from Mataram do not go to the coast, but inland, along the windy Pusuk Pass road. Two roads meet in Pemenang, one of them, a country road, leads to the small port of Bangsala, from where you can go to the three Gili Islands located in the distance (the word gili means "island"). The nearest of them, Gili Air, lies about 3 km, followed by Gili Meno, and then Gili Trawangan - it is not only the farthest, but also the largest of them, although its length is only 2.5 km.

White sand beaches and coral reefs have made the Gili extremely popular with divers, hikers and those looking to have fun. The quietest of the islands is Gili Meno; here you can relax in numerous beach cafes and bamboo bungalows, without fear that the noise of cars, motorcycles and barking dogs will disturb the peace. But Gili Trawangan is famous for noisy parties, and in general there are more entertainment here, including diving centers.

Boats from Bangsal to the islands usually only leave when they are full of passengers. (usually one boat holds 15-20 people). In July and August you do not have to wait long, but in the off season it is better to pay for empty seats or hire a round trip carrier (for a fairly low fixed fee). Buy tickets in the main building, not from salesmen or makeshift stalls: you can easily run into scammers there. Some of the larger hotels in the Gili Islands provide speedboat transfers.

Mountain hikes

Gunung-Rinjani with a height of 3726 m is revered by both the Sasaks and the Balinese, who organize pilgrimages to the lake and hot springs located in its crater. Every year, many lovers of mountain tourism come to this area; they start their route from one of the villages at the foot of the volcano, south of Bayan (we recommend hiking during the dry season, from June to November).

The narrow road climbs rapidly from the center of Bayan to Batu Kok, leads to the nearby village of Senara, and ends there. Along the road there are guest houses, some of them adjoin a restaurant or cafe (warung), and from the restaurant overlooking the valley, you can see the glare of the Sendang Gile waterfall. In Rinjani you can hire a guide - both for one day and for a longer ascent. The main goal of tourists is an awe-inspiring crater with a beautiful crescent-shaped lake. To reach it, you will need a whole day of tedious hiking. The depth of the crater is 600 m, the descent along its steep, slippery slope will take several more hours. Plan on three or even four days of expedition, especially if you want to climb to the top of Rinjani. Those who don't have that much time or energy can enjoy a half hour walk through the valley and lunch at Senara, next to the magnificent Sendang and Tin Kelep waterfalls.

South and East of Lombok

As you leave the Lombok road and head east of Narmada, you will come across a cluster of craft villages. Loyok, for example, is famous throughout Indonesia for baskets and bamboo mats. In nearby Rungkang, jet-black pots of all sizes are made and then braided with thin, flexible rattan.

On the southern slope of Gunung Rinjani is Tetebatu, favorite place recreation local residents, with an old hotel and a couple of apartments overlooking the green valleys. Here you can walk to the forest waterfall accompanied by black monkeys who will chat, squeal and jump from branch to branch.

Labuhan Lombok on east coast- this is a local "outback"; it is hot and stuffy here, the impression is smoothed out only by picturesque pile houses. From the Kayangan terminal, which is 3 km from this village, cargo and passenger ferries leave for Sumbawa Island.

In Sukarara, just south of Mataram, almost every household has an antique loom for the production of magnificent songket fabrics, in which gold and silver threads are mixed with cotton threads. A little further south is Penujak, where world famous pottery is made for export.

Belek, east of the market town of Praia, specializes in complex weaving: it takes local craftswomen about a week to make just one large table mat. Further south, near Kuta, is Rambitan, a traditional Sasak settlement with bamboo-covered houses and tall barns for storing rice. Tourists and souvenir sellers are always crowded there. Sade is similar to him, but not as big. Note the bamboo-roofed mosques in both villages.

To the south, dry, low scrub-covered hills take you slowly through the semi-desert before revealing one of Indonesia's most stunning coastlines. Kuta Beach with its white coral sand is one of the most convenient places for surfing, however, unlike its Balinese namesake, it is mostly empty. You can stay here in modest cottages; some of them have restaurants.

At sandy beach Mandalika is a resort hotel "Novotel Coralia Resort", stylized as a traditional Sasak village. This is the best hotel in the area. At the request of the guests, drivers can deliver them to one of the most beautiful secluded beaches nearby.

It is worth visiting the Sunday morning market in the village of Kuta: it is very crowded and interesting here. Once a year, in February or March, for a few days after the second full moon, people gather on the beach near Novotel to hold the Bau Nyale festival. The festival has a very ancient origin and takes place on the night when millions of sea worms crawl out of the water to mate.

Traveling around Lombok

In Senggigi they settle down organized tours on the few cultural attractions of Lombok and the villages of artisans. Some of them include a visit to one of the Gili Islands for snorkeling or diving. Bemos travel from city to city, but rarely leave the densely populated central lowlands. They can be rented at a price that roughly corresponds to the cost of a daily rental of a standard vehicle. On the ubiquitous chidomo (pony with a wagon similar to a Balinese dokar) convenient for small trips. Taxis outside Senggigi must be booked in advance. You can rent a car in Senggigi and Mataram. You can also rent bicycles, they are good for traveling in the mountains during the dry season (from June to October).

Accommodation

Most visitors to this island stay in and around Senggigi. A number of hotels are located in Kuta Beach and on south coast. The Gili Islands have comfortable middle-class hotels, losmens, as well as luxurious villas and hotels, the number of which is increasing.

In villages where there are no official places to spend the night, but if you want to stay here, you need to introduce yourself to the elder: he will place you with one of the local families.

Kitchen

Lombok cuisine does not differ in anything special from its Balinese neighbor. Except for one thing: this is a Muslim island and finding pork on the menu of restaurants outside the resorts is problematic. Alcohol is ubiquitous in tourist areas, mostly in the form of Bintang beer.

crafts

Craft art in Lombok focuses on the production of household items that have natural beauty and functionality. Look for exquisite wickerwork, be it mats, boxes, plates, pouches, or today's popular rice barns. The wooden carved and painted caskets for storing spices, tobacco, and jewelry are also very attractive. Simple red earthenware is made in Penujak, while intricately woven black pots are made in Rungkang.

How to get there

Selaparang International Airport ("Selaparang") in Mataram, two ferry crossings- that's the whole poor set of communication between Lombok and the "mainland", usually meaning neighboring Bali.

Actually, air communication with other countries is limited only to flights of Singapore's Silk Air with its inhumane 300 SGD one way and 490 SGD "round trip" from Singapore (approximately $190 and 300)- and this is a couple of months before the flight. A week before the desired date, the price tag skyrockets, and it is more logical to use Air Asia flights and local airlines with a transfer in Denpasar. The Bali capital is very close - 15 minutes in the air by plane a / c "Merpati" (2-3 flights a day, $60). Those wishing to save money are offered flights on a "fokker" a / c "Trigana" for $ 30 - an unforgettable experience in the style of a "dive bomber chronicle"!

Also, if you wish, you can fly directly to Surabaya and Yogyakarta on Citilink aircraft. Tickets are sold at airport ticket offices and travel agencies. Arriving guests of the island are transported to cities and resorts by taxi. You should ignore the intrusive bombers, go through the parking lot to the road and catch blue taxis with a meter - a trip to Mataram will cost 6,000 - 7,000 Rp (3 km south).

Lombok's main western gate is at Lembar (Lembar), where ferries from the Balinese Padangbai moor every hour and a half. The ticket is inexpensive - 15,000 Rp, but for vehicle you will have to pay extra, from 40,000 Rp for a motorbike to 225,000 Rp for a car. Passengers of buses, scheduled and charter, do not need to pay anything extra. Ferry tickets are sold at the box office, cunning port scammers claim that the box office is closed, but you should not believe them. Huge Pelni ferries from other Indonesian islands also dock at the port. Because of their deadly slow speed, they are rarely used by tourists. You can get from Lembar to Mataram by motorbike along a beautiful road for 25,000 Rp or by taxi.

Those wishing to continue their journey east to the Nusa Tenggara Islands (Sumbawa - Komodo - Flores) use the eastern port of Kayangan (Kyangan) in Labuan Lombok (Labuhan Lombok) where ferries depart every hour for Sumbawa (Rp 9,000, transport surcharge). It is connected to Mataram by a good road and numerous buses departing from the Bertais city bus station. ("Bertais") (2 hours).

At all, bus service, starting from the trans-island Jakarta - Sape (sape) (Sumbawa Island) and ending with daily tourist charters of the Regatta company to all Bali resorts - the cheapest and most popular means of communication with the outside world. The easiest way to get there is from Denpasar (6 - 7 hours, 90 000 Rp) and Sumbawa Besar (Sumbawa Besar) (6 hours, 65,000 Rp). The trip from Jakarta will turn into an extreme 32 hours in a smoky bus for 300,000 Rp - very cheap, but incredibly angry.

Useful information

The Tourist Office is located at Mataram, Lombok. Jalan Langka, 70, tel.: 0370-631-730. Useful cards and booklets, which, however, are not always available.

We also recommend Bidy Tour in Lombok (Tel: 0370-632-127; www.bidytour-lombok.com). Another reliable travel agency is "Perama Tours" (Tel: 0370-693-007 in Lombok, 0361-751-551 in Bali; www.peramatour.com) offers a variety of excursions, as well as transfers in Lombok and Indonesia.