"German" Svalbard, "Norwegian" Svalbard, "Dutch" Spitsbergen, and, if anyone is short of it, Grumant, the Holy Russian Islands, a place to build a "storage doomsday"and just" sharp mountains "- all this is just an archipelago in the North Arctic Ocean. It belongs to Norway, however, according to the system of international treaties, a demilitarized zone has been established, including Svalbard and coastal waters, and a special status for Russia has been determined. We have the right to extract minerals in Svalbard, primarily coal. On the island of Western Svalbard, Russia has the settlement of Barentsburg and the mothballed villages of Piramida and Grumant.

Text: Igor Shumeiko

The uniqueness of the interior of Svalbard, including coal (reserves of more than 10 billion tons), scientists explain it by a long tectonic drift along the Earth's mantle, during which Svalbard visited different climatic zones. The uniqueness of the legal status of the archipelago is explained by an equally long political drift.

The right of discoverers is shared by the Scandinavian Vikings and Russian Pomors, who tried to establish fur and whaling trades on Svalbard. Pomors, considering this land part of Greenland, called it Grumant.

In 1596, he was the first to map the outlines of the western part of the archipelago and gave the name Svalbard - "Land sharp mountains» Dutchman Willem Barents. Whaling maintained a high degree of interest in Svalbard from Great Britain, Holland, Denmark, and Sweden.

The famous Russian geographer, polar explorer Yuri Shokalsky wrote about the history of Spitsbergen in the following way: “In 1765 and 1766, the Russians undertook a voyage to the shores of Grumant under the command of Captain 1st Rank Chichagov with three ships; the purpose of the voyage was to find a sea route to the East Indies across the Arctic Ocean according to Lomonosov's project. Russian industrialists continued to visit Grumant; one of them, Starostin, even spent 15 years without a break on Svalbard and wintered there 17 times ... ".

In 1669-1778, Holland alone received 180 million rubles in proceeds from whale fishing. About 14,000 Dutch sailors took about 57,600 whales during this time. This field of crafts did not fall to the Dutch without a struggle; the British tried to wrest it from them, falsely claiming that Svalbard was discovered by Willoughby in 1555. In 1618, there was a clash between the fishing fleets of the Dutch and the British, which ended in the defeat of the latter. The British compromised: the northern part of the waters of Svalbard was given to the Dutch, the southern - to the British, French, and others. ). This contributed to the summer colonization of the region; whole settlements appeared on the western and northwestern shores of the archipelago in the summer, the inhabitants of which were busy extracting whale oil and baleen. There was extensive trade, there were battles between industrialists of different nations.

However, at the end of the 19th century, the production of technical oils from petroleum sharply reduced the sale of whale oil, economic interest declined, leaving Svalbard in the status of a "no man's land", like Antarctica. Coal on the islands was discovered in 1912 by the Russian expedition of Rusanov, giving rise to a new kind of activity. The claims of the two main contenders were balanced: Russia-USSR - by weakness, isolation, Norway - by its "new development", the year of birth of the state 19 ... excluded any chronological priorities. The Paris Conference of 1920 granted sovereignty over the Norwegian archipelago by the Treaty of Spitsbergen, giving all 39 states parties to the treaty an equal right to conduct economic and research activities. The USSR joined the treaty in 1935.

Second World War showed the great strategic importance of Svalbard. German stations provided important meteorological information, corrected the work of German aviation in the Arctic. In 1942–1943, their elimination resulted in a series of major naval battles and landing operations. First, a detachment of Norwegians from among those evacuated to Britain after the surrender of the country in 1940 landed on two ships from Scotland to the Longyearbyen region and managed to gain a foothold on the coast. To return Svalbard, the Germans sent a detachment of ships: the battleships Tirpitz and Scharnhorst, nine destroyers (the rarest case for Hitler to risk two battleships at once). Longyearbyen and Barentsburg were destroyed by artillery fire, one of the coal mines set on fire at that time was extinguished only in 1960! The landing of the Germans turned into a difficult battle, after a long resistance, the Norwegians withdrew into the mountains to the village of Grumant.

After the war, on the basis of the Treaty of Paris, joint Soviet and Norwegian economic activity resumed. Our Arktikugol, in addition to coal mining, acted as the representative of the Soviet Union on all issues that arose in Svalbard. The oil and gas boom has partly reduced the demand for coal. The Norwegians stopped its production everywhere except Sveagruva, and then completely reoriented Spitsbergen to ecological tourism and scientific expeditionary work: radars, satellite stations, an observatory for the study of the northern lights.

Against this background, especially during the years of perestroika, Arktikugol came under a barrage of criticism. The death in 1996 of an aircraft with shift workers (141 people) and the need for subsidies in the amount of 395.6 million rubles a year (2006) also supported the talk of "economically meaningless Svalbard." However, "MR" has already given an assessment of the "prominent economist E. Gaidar" about BAM: “A typical example of the socialist “construction of the century”. Expensive, large-scale, romantic... Supported by all the power of Soviet propaganda, economically absolutely meaningless. And this is about Russia's most important project of the 21st century! The Trans-Siberian Railway, which cost 1.5 billion of those (!) Rubles, is also meaningless from the "Gaidar" point of view. The importance of our presence on Svalbard is not immediately apparent: the boundaries of the polar possessions, the state affiliation of the Arctic shelf have only today become the leading topic of world politics.

One of the main storehouses (25% of the world's hydrocarbons), the Arctic is also the shortest route between Europe and the APEC countries: 14,000 kilometers versus 23,000 kilometers through the Suez Canal. Global warming boosts Arctic stocks.

Interesting memories of Nikolai Popov show the texture of Soviet life in the 1950s-1970s at this unique point.

“My father, Nikolai Nikolaevich Popov, graduated in 1948 from the Higher Naval Command School. Frunze, with the rank of lieutenant, served in the Baltic Fleet in a brigade of torpedo boats, the home port of Tallinn.

In 1952, he entered the Military Academy of the Soviet Army, colloquially called the "conservatory". The head of the academy was Mikhail Andreevich Kochetkov. My father studied at the 2nd faculty of intelligence and operational intelligence, where, among other things, they prepared military attachés for work. After graduating from VASA, he was sent to serve in the GRU. In 1957-1958 he worked in Italy under the cover of Assistant Naval Attache. Upon his return, he was sent to the Main Headquarters of the USSR Navy as a communications officer in the RU of the Navy.

In the 60s, a reduction in the personnel of the army and navy began. Father was offered to go to serve on the island of Svalbard. Then the GRU officers did not rush to Svalbard, considering these places "wild and unpromising for a career." Father, having good experience service on ships, agreed.

1963 I am five years old, I was very proud that my dad is a naval officer. I still remember how I asked my mother why my father stopped wearing uniform, to which I was told that my father had become a geologist.

Captain 3rd rank N.N. A legend is created for Popov: a work book is started, a number of positions are moved. On 10/04/1963, he was assigned to Svalbard as an engineer-geologist of the geological exploration expedition of the Arktikugol Trust under the Council of National Economy of the RSFSR. From December 1963, he was deputy head of the geological exploration expedition of the Arktikugol Trust. Father worked out the "cover" in full. Regularly on dog sledding or an all-terrain vehicle moved around the island, most often to the mining village of Pyramid. There, 120 km from Barentsburg, where we lived, there was a base of geologists ...

Now, based on open information and comparisons, Nikolai Popov can determine the scope of his father's work:

• collection and sending to the Center of political, economic, scientific information;

conducting radio reconnaissance, listening to radio communications in all possible ranges;

• translation of these conversations and preparation of reports for the Center;
• general analysis.

I remember that my father often took me on trips, as he said, "to the geological party." We were driving across the tundra in an all-terrain vehicle near the village of Barentsburg, there, in a small wooden building, there was a radio room, many receivers and all kinds of equipment. Now I understand: it was a radio intelligence center. I remember young men with beards, they gave me tea to drink, they let me shoot seagulls with small things, which, thank God, I did not hit. One day a bear with two cubs climbed into the house. I had to shoot her. The cubs remained, they were fed, played with them, and at the first opportunity they were sent to the mainland, they said, to the Leningrad Zoo.

If we consider the life of Spitsbergen within the framework of the father's operational work, then this is not just a village, but a very small village. Everyone knows everyone. If you try to recruit someone, tomorrow the bears will know about it. Therefore, real undercover work was not carried out on the archipelago.

Relations with the Norwegians were official and friendly, they could not have been otherwise on the polar train. My father knew English very well and, in addition to the role of a "geologist", actively participated in all negotiations and meetings with the Norwegians as an interpreter. Often traveled to Norwegian territory in the city of Longyearbyen - the capital of the archipelago.

My father had a close friend in Svalbard, for me Uncle Vasya, his daughter and I went to the same group in a kindergarten in Barentsburg. When I also became a naval officer, I met him at the Main Headquarters of the Navy. It was Colonel Vasily Fedorovich Samoylenko, one of the founders of the Naval Special Forces, a master of combat qualifications, a participant in a number of responsible command assignments, and the head of the department of the General Staff of the Navy. Uncle Vasya was a major and, apparently, worked in my father's group, I remember them all the time together.

Once they had to urgently go with their father on a geoexpedition. For some reason, they could not start the all-terrain vehicle and went skiing. The weather in the Arctic is changing rapidly, a blizzard began, my father left the ski track and fell into a snowdrift. Uncle Vasya searched for him for two hours, and then dragged him to the base. This is how the special forces of the Navy and the intelligence officer represented the interests of the country in Svalbard.

Snowstorms are common there. I was often tied with a rope to my belt and only then they let me go for a walk. Mom watched: if the rope is in place, then everything is fine, if something is wrong, then they pulled me by the rope, and I had to return. Once, as always, the weather was fine, and my friend Mishka and I decided to dig a cave in a snowdrift. The cave turned out to be quite voluminous, we were tired and fell asleep in it. Woke up to some noise. We look - and we were on the mountain - people with lanterns walk below, shout, several all-terrain vehicles drive, they are looking for someone. Mishka then suggested: probably, the mine was blocked again, and the miners died. His father was a miners foreman. In two years, there were three accidents at the Barentsburg mine, seven miners died. We ran home. They poured us on the first number, because the whole village was looking for us. As it turned out, we slept in the cave for seven hours.

DIPLOMATIC ACTIVITIES OF THE FATHER

The Soviet consulate, where diplomats, KGB agents and intelligence officers worked, was located in the village of Barentsburg. We lived in this village in a two-story house. We had a two-room apartment on the first floor. As far as I remember, no kitchen. Everyone who lived in the village had free meals in a huge dining room. The dining room was upstairs, and below it in the basement (underground) there was a gym and a swimming pool, working all year round. It was very light from the fluorescent lamps that were used to grow cucumbers, tomatoes and other greens. In the dining room New Year they laid tables, arranged a feast and gave Soviet champagne - in boxes. On ordinary days, the island had a “dry law”.

The Consulate then was in a two-story building (now the Consulate General of the Russian Federation occupies a four-story building). Inside there is a huge hall, a fireplace hall, everything is lined with marble, long corridors, colored tapestries on the walls. The premises would be enough for a Soviet embassy somewhere in Paris or London. And this magnificence was intended for a supernumerary consulate on the edge of the earth with a team of employees of 7-10 people. Often in the evenings, employees of the consulate, the KGB and intelligence gathered for a common dinner, sometimes with their wives.

By the way, in 1990, Platon Obukhov worked in the Russian diplomatic mission of Svalbard, who after, in 1996, was arrested on charges of spying for Great Britain.

ABOUT NUTRITION

Everything, including food, was imported twice a year: in spring and autumn. You can't live without vitamins in the North. In the dining room, in the greenhouses with her, and each house had its own vegetable garden on the window. The secret effect of the magnetism of the Arctic: the crop was harvested several times a year. During the polar night, when illuminated, flowers grew twice as fast and larger than on the mainland. I remember that my mother grew cucumbers on the window and harvested the crop twice. Fragrant juicy green cucumbers with pimples and yellow flowers. I crunched them in the winter with great pleasure. On holidays, dad asked mom to make lightly salted cucumbers “in a polar way”. And also: the stars, the northern lights and ... the lowing of cows, and in the morning the singing of roosters and the clucking of chickens. It was a non-freezing household plot. Bulls and heifers born there at the age of six months reached the size of their two-three-year-old counterparts on the mainland.

ABOUT SCHOOL

There were about 20-25 children. The school was opened in 1964. There were three students in the first grade, myself included. One girl was in the third grade and one boy was in the fifth grade. There was only one teacher, we were in the same class. We were the pride of the village: the first school beyond the Arctic Circle! At the end of the contract (November 30, 1965), my father returned from Spitsbergen to Moscow. Received a vacation of 90 working days. For good work, active assistance in the implementation of the plan in 1965, gratitude was announced and a bonus of 35 rubles was paid. Captain 3rd rank N.N. Popov returned for further service in the General Staff of the USSR Navy, where he served until his retirement.

But everything comes back. Already being the head of the department of the General Staff of the Navy, in 1983, my father was appointed from the GRU as the curator for the work of the diplomatic delegation on Spitsbergen issues. He once again visited the island, together with diplomats participated in the negotiations held in Stockholm.

“create economic conditions so that Lyapidevsky, Kamanin would benefit from saving the Chelyuskinites, and Papanin drifting on an ice floe ... and the invisible hand of the market (which did not even save pensioners in the 1990s middle lane Russia) would open the way for us to the riches of the North.”

It is clear that without incredible enthusiasm there would not have been our first breakthrough into the Arctic in the 1930s. And Popov's memoirs perfectly convey the atmosphere of another era, more ordinary. The Arctic, and specifically Arktikugol, is no longer at the epicenter of national attention. But this routine emphasizes the other side of heroism: uniform, ordinary work in this completely unusual part of the planet. Service. The overall result of the heroic and everyday years: the preservation of the country's presence in the most important region of the 21st century.

And here is April 2015.

Russian Deputy Prime Minister Dmitry Rogozin, on his way to the opening of the North Pole 2015 drifting station, arrived in Svalbard and visited Barentsburg.

Norwegian Foreign Ministry spokesman Frode Andersen commented on this: “We told Russia that the appearance of people on the sanctions list on Svalbard(Norwegian name for Svalbard) undesirable, although this is not a violation of Norwegian law.” But... this "unfortunate visit" to the still Russian Barentsburg, Norway could not ban, like Finland, which banned the entry of the speaker of the State Duma Naryshkin.

In the 2000s, the Arctic was called the "territory of dialogue".

President of Russia V.V. Putin stated: “Our country is ready for the most active international cooperation in the Arctic region. I am sure that it will expand, and no temporary cooling of relations between the West and Russia will stop it.”

Russia plans to conduct exploration and evaluation of the mineral resources of Svalbard. It is possible to mine semi-precious stones. In the area of ​​the archipelago there are fishing areas where cod, herring, sea bass, catfish, flounder, halibut, etc. are caught. There are projects for the construction of factories for processing fish and algae on the archipelago.

The famous polar explorer Artur Chilingarov commented on these events in the following way: “We will not give up the Pole! In the 90s Far North was thoughtlessly thrown to the mercy of the market elements. Now the state has taken up the problems of the Arctic territories. The future of Russia is inextricably linked with the fate of the polar regions. Their development is a national priority. Here is the resource base of the country. By 2050, the Arctic shelf will provide 20-30% of Russian oil production. The Arctic plays a huge role for the geopolitical position of the state. Russia will be associated with the exploration of the Arctic, just as the USSR once was with the conquest of space.”

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Life in Svalbard

I moved to Svalbard in January 2015. Before that, I worked as a web designer in Russia for 10 years, but I dreamed of changing my field of activity, and at the same time my place of residence.

Nazilya Zemdikhanova

lives in the arctic

The decision to move came spontaneously after tourist trip to the Arctic. I took off with no long-term plans. The first year I worked in the Russian village of Barentsburg - it was easy to find a job in the field of tourism there, having no experience. The working and living conditions in Barentsburg did not suit me, so the next year I moved to the neighboring Norwegian city of Longyearbyen, where I got a job as a hotel receptionist.

Before my arrival, the Arctic seemed to me a harsh place. It seemed like sheer deprivation and discomfort. But now I think it's more pleasant to live here than on the mainland.

History, coal and tourism

Svalbard is an archipelago between the North Pole and Europe. In Norway it is called Svalbard.

Until 1920, Svalbard was considered no man's land. In 1920, Norway received sovereignty over the archipelago, and the United States, Great Britain, France, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, Sweden and other countries received an equal right to conduct economic activities here, use the natural resources of the islands and territorial waters.

People went to Svalbard because of the coal deposits. At the beginning of the 20th century, companies of Norwegian, Russian, Swedish and American origin founded the cities of Longyearbyen, Barentsburg, Pyramiden, Grumant, Sveagruva and Ny-Ålesund. Throughout the 20th century, coal mining was the main engine of the economy here, but at the end of 2016, fuel prices fell and the focus shifted to the development of tourism.

Tourists go to Svalbard to see the polar bear, the northern lights and the Russian ghost town of Pyramiden. There are also snowmobile safaris, dog sledding, wild nature, ship cruises, hiking and ski tours.

Weather

The year is divided into three seasons: polar night, winter and summer. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, the temperature in the west of Svalbard is about 20 ° C higher than in other points at the same latitude. In winter, it is much warmer here than, for example, in the Urals.

The polar night lasts 4 months - from the end of October to the end of February. My work contract allows me to leave during the low season for a long time, so I take a vacation for 2-3 months of the polar night and go to travel to other countries or go home to Russia.

+5 °C

average temperature in Svalbard in summer

At the end of February, the sun appears and the winter season begins. It lasts until mid-May. At this time it is cold but sunny. The temperature drops to -25 ° C, and if the wind blows, then even lower. At this time, I usually wear 1-2 layers of thermal underwear, snowmobile boots, a shapeless down jacket and windproof pants.

What we here call summer lasts from June to August. The sun appears in the sky no more often than in winter, despite the name "polar day": sometimes fogs, sometimes clouds. The wind is cold, so I still wear a hat and a windproof jacket every day. In summer, the average temperature in Svalbard is +5 °C.

City of Longyearbyen

Longyearbyen, where I now live, is the most populated city archipelago. 2200 people live here. From the Norwegian Oslo and Tromso, planes of SAS and Norwegian airlines fly here every day. In the high season, from March to September, up to 5-6 aircraft arrive per day, including charters from other European countries. A ticket costs 600-3500 kroons (4300-25 300 R). There is also a charter from Russia, but it flies once every two months. I always fly via Oslo.

Although the city is Norwegian, the number of foreigners is increasing every year. It is not customary to use the words "expat" or "emigrant" here, since everyone has the same rights. Statistics say that every year the composition of the population changes by 25%. On average, they live in Longyearbyen for 4-7 years, and then they go back to the mainland. Someone comes to earn money, others are interested in the experience of working in the archipelago.

2200

man lives in Longyearbyen

The infrastructure allows families with children of any age to live comfortably. There are two grocery stores in Longyearbyen, shopping center, hospital, Kindergarten, school, house of culture, sports complex, cinema, restaurants, bars, hotels. There is even a university center. Everywhere can be reached on foot.

Polar bears and weapons

Svalbard is unique in that people live next door to polar bears. On the one hand, this is a risk for both people and bears. On the other hand, this allows the authorities to limit the independent activity of tourists on the island and earn money on organized tours.

I saw bears here only through binoculars, but when I go for a walk outside the city, I always take a gun with me or friends with a gun.

Last season, bears roamed right in the vicinity of Longyearbyen. News about this was published on the website of the governor. The drone of a helicopter was constantly heard - this is how bears are driven away from the city. If the animal is not frightened by the pursuit of the helicopter or is aggressive, it is temporarily euthanized and taken far north so that it does not find its way back.

I think that it makes no sense to be afraid of bears and sit in the city. With friends we go on snowmobile tours, go to the mountains, go skiing. Bears are not limited in movement, so it is impossible to predict their location. I am required by security regulations to carry a large-caliber weapon and/or flare gun. This is the only reliable way to save yourself when meeting a bear.

Buying or renting weapons in Svalbard is easy. You need a certificate of no criminal record, translated into English or Norwegian and certified by the governor of Longyearbyen. Confirmation will be sent directly to the store. If you have never held a weapon in your hands, the sales assistant will tell you how to load and unload a gun, how to shoot. Renting a Mauser 30-06 costs 190 crowns (1400 R) per day.

1400 R

per day is the cost of renting a Mauser 30-06

I don't have a personal weapon. When I work as a guide and lead a tour, I take a weapon at work. You don't need a certificate for this. The rest of the time I go to the mountains or ride snowmobiles with friends who have weapons. If I go alone, then I take the weapon from my partner.

144 600 R

can reach the size of the fine for killing a polar bear

Polar bears are listed in the Red Book, and each case of attack or murder is thoroughly investigated. Self-defense is not enough reason to kill an animal. If the investigation shows that the person did not take sufficient measures to avoid meeting the bear, and as a result killed him, then a fine will be issued. The amount of the fine is up to 20,000 kroons (144,600 R).

Visa and registration

Residents of the countries that signed the Svalbard Treaty - and there are more than 50 of them - have the right to stay and work in the archipelago without a visa. Russia is among them. But this is only on paper. In reality, you will most likely have to fly to Longyearbyen via Oslo or Tromsø, which means you will also need a Schengen visa with a reserve of days to leave. A direct charter from Moscow flies every 2 months. But even in this case, a Schengen visa is required: you need to prove that in a critical situation you will have the opportunity to fly on any flight, and not just a direct charter in two months.

The first time I received a one-year Schengen visa was when I was working in Barentsburg. The company-employer was engaged in registration, I only made insurance for a year and sent my passport to Moscow. I went to get the next visa on my own at the office of the Governor of Svalbard. It was necessary to submit registration, employment contract, bank statement and standard documents for a Schengen visa. I took a picture, handed over documents and fingerprints in 10 minutes. Two weeks later, a one-year visa was issued. Visa fees- 35 €. The payment was deducted directly from the bank account.

Registration with the tax office is required if you want to get a job, open a bank account, register a car or a snowmobile. Foreign residents are assigned a D-number - this is an analogue of the Norwegian identification number, but with restrictions. Di number is linked to the bank, insurance, medical card and other social services.

It is important that registration in Svalbard does not give the right to reside in mainland Norway, regardless of the number of years lived in the archipelago. The rules apply to Norwegian spouses and common children.

Money and banks

The local currency is the Norwegian krone. In February 2018, 1 NOK = 7.23 R. In the summer, euros and dollars appear in unofficial circulation on Svalbard - along with passengers cruise liners. There are no currency exchange points, but bank cards are accepted everywhere. Once I saw how tourists were sitting with a bag of dollars and could not pay for a hotel room.

When I got a job, I received a card from the only local bank - Sparebank. The staff are friendly and willing to help with any issue. Truth, credit card they refused to give me, because I am not a citizen of Norway. The bank has two mobile applications: internet banking and one-time password generator. I use both of them constantly to pay bills, transfers and buy goods on the Internet. Annual maintenance costs 250 crowns (1800 R).

1800 R

per year costs card maintenance at the local "Sparebank"

Commission for transferring money to a Russian bank - 50 kroons (360 R), for cash withdrawal at a third-party ATM - 30 kroons (220 R) + 0.5% of the withdrawal amount.

Work and salary

There is no centralized job search in Svalbard. Jobs are sought either on the websites of companies, or they come at the invitation of acquaintances and friends from the island. Specialties requiring a Norwegian education are not available to foreigners.

Longyearbyen is highly competitive in the tourism and hospitality industries. This is due to less stringent education requirements: enough in English and similar experience to come here to work. Guides value knowledge of additional languages, such as French or German.

900 R

per hour - minimum wage in Longyearbyen

The work is regulated by the contract. The type of contract is required - it can be permanent or seasonal. Also, the contract always indicates the hourly salary, the percentage of employment from the full working week, allowances for overtime, holidays and holidays.

The minimum payment is 125 kroons (900 R) per hour. Full time work week - 37.5 hours per week. Excluding taxes, the minimum wage for a full working month is 18,750 kroons (135,600 R).

Permanent contract - indefinite. He is covered by the law on the payment of compensation in case of forced dismissal or due to illness. Five weeks a year is paid vacation. Overtime hours, holidays and weekends are paid additionally, it can be either 20 or 100% of hourly pay.

The seasonal contract sets the terms and percentage employment. A person with an 80% contract is not allowed to work overtime. For both types of contracts, a thirteenth salary is provided.

But there are other options for contracts. My contracts both at the hotel and at work as a guide are seasonal, but not limited in percentage. If I work more than 37.5 hours a week, overtime is not paid at the rate, but is recorded in a separate month. I will receive payment when I am on vacation. This is a trick used by some employers. But even in this case, I receive allowances for evening and night hours, Sundays and holidays in accordance with the laws.

136 600 R

minimum wage for a full month before taxes

Sample salaries are:

• cook, bartender, hotel employee - 150-180 kroons per hour (1080-1300 R);
• guide, tour guide - 180-300 kroons per hour (1300-2170 R);
• officials and civil servants - 300-430 kroons per hour (2170-3100 R);
• teachers, doctors - 270-310 crowns per hour (1950-2240 R);
• civil engineer, system administrator, police officer - 300-340 kroons per hour (2170-2450 R).

taxes

To apply for a job, you need to register with tax office and get a Norwegian identification number. When living in Svalbard for more than 12 months, a resident is required to pay a flat tax rate of 16.2%. Of these, 8% is income tax and 8.2% is insurance.

The insurance is valid from the first working day and continues for another 30 days after the last one. It entitles you to sickness benefit, sick child benefit and maternity benefit. Unemployed spouses are entitled to receive health care through the insurance system while they live in Svalbard.

25%

the amount of VAT in Norway, but for residents of Svalbard it has been canceled

In Norway, the VAT is 25%, in Svalbard it is not. I order electronics, clothing and sports equipment from Norwegian online stores. When paying, tax is usually deducted immediately. Sometimes it is required to issue a tax refund after receiving the parcel, but I have never used this method.

Housing

Housing in Longyearbyen is the first thing to consider if you decide to move. Tourism is developing here, the number of jobs is growing, the pace of construction of new housing does not keep pace with tourism. This led to a housing crisis. Finding at least some apartment in Longyearbyen is already a success.

47 000 R

per month, my partner and I pay for rent

Apartments here range from one-room studios to two-story apartments with two or three bedrooms. The cost of renting a one-room apartment starts from 6,500 kroons (47,000 R). A two- or three-room apartment costs 10-15 thousand crowns per month (72-108 thousand rubles). The employer will help you find an apartment, but you can also look for it yourself. Housing for rent in the Ros & Info Longyearbyen Facebook group.

To confirm solvency, it is enough to show the work contract to the landlord.

I found accommodation through friends. We live together with a young man in a two-room apartment and pay 6,500 crowns (47,000 R) per month. Our house is located in the industrial area of ​​Longyearbyen, so we have a view of the mountains, the fjord and the landfill from the window. We are not in a hurry to move to the city center, because we keep a dog on the street and we can have a barbecue near the house. Dogs are not allowed outside in the city.

Of the utility bills, we pay only for electricity, as we live in a house without central heating. The building does not hold heat, it is blown out by the winds. During the day, the apartment manages to cool down to +8 °C. In the evenings we turn on the electric radiators. With such electricity consumption, the quarterly bill in winter is 3500-4000 kroons (25-29 thousand rubles). In summer, the apartment is warm without additional heating, so the bill is half as much.

Some of the city's housing is owned by the Longyearbyen Community Council. These apartments are not rented out, they stand idle for months, but they have a practical purpose: people from potentially dangerous areas are temporarily relocated here if an avalanche or a mudflow descends there. This happens 2-3 times a year.

This is such a small apartment. rent on Facebook for 7500 CZK per month

Transport

The length of paved roads in the city and its environs is 40 km. As of 2017, 1,340 cars for 2,200 people were registered in Longyearbyen, including workers and service cars.

There is a Toyota car dealership in the city, with a car service center. Repairing or maintaining a car is expensive. Sometimes it's easier to sell. For example, changing to winter tires costs 2,000 kroons (14,500 R). For visitors there is a car rental service. A day on Kia Sportage will cost 890 crowns (6400 R), on Toyota Hilux - 1050 crowns (7600 R). I don't have my own car.

The second most popular transport is a snowmobile. According to statistics, there are 2100 snowmobiles in the city. A used snowmobile can be bought for 5,000 crowns (36,200 R), or for 80,000 crowns (578,400 R). The price depends on the model, condition and year of manufacture. I bought my snowmobile for 13,000 crowns (94,000 R). During the season from February to mid-May, my mileage does not exceed 2000 km.

94 000 R

cost my snowmobile

With a consumption of 20 liters per 100 km and the cost of gasoline 9.02 crowns per liter, the fuel costs me 3600 crowns per year (26,000 R). I pay 160 kroons per month for insurance (1160 R).

From public transport in Longyearbyen there is only a bus. It is tied to the flight schedule: first it takes tourists to hotels, and then collects them. There are no other routes. For a trip lasting 5-15 minutes, an adult ticket will cost 75 crowns (540 R). For the same way, a taxi will take 150 kroons (1080 R).

unnecessary things

The territory of Svalbard is a permafrost zone, you can't bury garbage here. Therefore, recycling is a separate issue. Covered containers are intended for household waste, while bulky waste - snowmobiles, cars, household appliances, furniture, etc. - is stored at a local landfill. It costs some money. All garbage is then taken out for disposal in Norway.

There are two more ways to get rid of things - through Facebook and free market, it's something like a flea market. Freemarket is good way get a starter kit for a home in Svalbard. Here dishes, books, shoes, clothes, interior items are transferred from one owner to another. Once every two weeks I go to the free market for flower pots, kitchen utensils and books. At the end of the tourist season, down jackets, sleeping bags, snowmobile boots appear on the free market, and hotels distribute beds, tables and chairs.

First of all, it's all about the environment. Things find a new owner, and do not end up in a landfill.

The medicine

Longyearbyen Hospital has a limited staff of doctors: a physiotherapist, a surgeon, a dentist, an obstetrician, a pediatrician and two nurses. According to the experience of acquaintances, doctors try not to prescribe medicines once again, they advise to drink more water and rest. I had to be in the hospital twice. The consultation cost 152 crowns (1100 R).

Drugs in a pharmacy are sold by prescription through a special centralized medical system. You can buy without a prescription paracetamol (43 crowns - 311 R), ibuprofen (54 crowns - 390 R) and Otrivin nasal spray (64 crowns - 463 R). When I go to Russia, I buy all kinds of pills - for coughs, allergies, pain.

311 R

costs a pack of paracetamol

If someone's health really requires urgent attention from a specialist, the patient is booked a seat on the next flight to the Tromsø hospital. Tickets, hospital and sick leave are covered by health insurance. If the patient is in serious condition, he will be evacuated by helicopter from Tromsø.

I do not trust the local hospital and I try to resolve all health issues on the mainland.

Children and education

There are both babies and teenagers in Longyearbyen, but it is not possible to give birth here because of possible complications. It is customary to leave for Tromsø 1-2 weeks before the due date or give birth in your own country. If you go to give birth in Norway, this will not give any additional rights to either the child or the parents.

By law, from 49 to 59 weeks of maternity leave are paid if the work experience is 6 out of the last 10 months. Payment is equal to the average salary for the last year. The father of the child is required to take 10 weeks of maternity leave to care for the newborn.

There are two kindergartens in the city, children from one to five years go there. The cost of a place is 2500 kroons (18,000 R) per month. If a child between the ages of 1 and 2 does not attend kindergarten, the parents receive a cash allowance.

18 000 R

per month is a kindergarten for a child

School starts at age 6. Surprisingly, in Norway there is no concept of "remaining for the second year." All students are automatically promoted to the next class.

For children in the city, events are held in the house of culture, there are sports sections and a youth center.

Language

The official language is Norwegian, but knowing English is enough to feel comfortable. English is spoken at the governor's office, at the post office, and in the store. At work I usually speak English, Norwegian when I work with mail and phone calls.

When I first arrived on the island, my level of English was only enough for limited communication in the hotel. So I started learning Norwegian. The structure of the language is similar to English. I still have a hard time with pronunciation, understanding speech at the everyday level and dialects, but I can easily read modern literature and news.

I don’t feel the lack of communication in Russian: Russian-speaking people work here in shops, hotels, restaurants. Some marry citizens of Norway, others come to earn money, others have become attached to the local way of life.

Products and food

All food is brought to the island. Perishable milk and chilled meat are delivered by plane, the rest - by dry cargo ship. The assortment of the grocery store satisfies a multinational contingent: there are products from Europe, Asia, and even Mexico. On the shelves all year round fresh fruits and vegetables. Bread and cakes are baked at the local bakery. There is also a Thai grocery store, but I rarely go there.

Prices are high even by local standards:

• bread - 37 crowns (270 R);
• sterilized milk - 18 crowns (130 R);
• eggs, 18 pieces - 50 crowns (360 R);
• apples, 1 kg - 48 crowns (340 R).

About 5,000 crowns (36,200 R) per month for food for two.

If you are too lazy to cook, there are 11 establishments in Longyearbyen, including budget eateries and luxury restaurants. There are no places where only residents of the city go: first of all, all establishments are designed for tourists.

The first course in a restaurant costs 100-200 kroons (720-1470 R), the main ones - 200-400 kroons (1470-2900 R). Dessert will cost another 70-150 crowns (510-1080 R). A cup of cappuccino costs 35-50 crowns (250-360 R).

2150 R

worth a seal steak

In Svalbard, I first tasted whale, seal and deer meat. In the hotel restaurant where I work, reindeer steak is the most expensive dish on the menu: 445 CZK (3200 R). A seal steak costs 295 crowns (2150 R), from a whale - 265 crowns (1900 R). Of course, there is also fish: a trout dish - 325 kroons (2350 R), cod - 345 kroons (2500 R). Frozen meat and fish are also delivered by bulk carrier from the mainland.

Beef sandwich at a local restaurant, 219 crowns (1600 R)

Alcohol

Alcohol in Svalbard is sold according to quotas. It so happened historically: in the days of the coal industry, these measures were introduced so that the miners would not become an inveterate drunkard in the conditions of the polar night. Like a century ago, residents of the city must present an alcohol card in order to buy alcohol.

You can buy with the card per month:

1. Up to 2 liters of strong alcohol or 4 liters of fortified wine.
2. Up to 0.5 l of fortified wine.
3. 24 cans of beer.
4. Wine in reasonable quantities.

The alcohol section is a duty-free shop. For tourists, there is also a monthly quota for the purchase of alcohol. To buy a bottle of wine, tourists need to present a plane ticket.

Alcohol prices are as follows:

• a can of beer - 8-15 crowns (60-110 R);
• vodka "Russian Standard" 0.5 l - 85 kroons (615 R);
• wine - from 70 crowns (505 R).

A certain percentage of alcohol sales goes to the city. This money is distributed in the form of grants for socially significant and entertainment projects. For example, in 2017, 2.7 million crowns (19.5 million rubles) received from the sale of alcohol went to sports events, school and kindergarten educational projects, the needs of the Red Cross, and so on. Information on profit and distribution of money is in the public domain.

Crime

In Longyearbyen one ceases to be afraid for life and property. There are no homeless people and beggars in the city, all residents mostly work and have enough money to live on. Cars and houses are all left open. I lock the house and take my car keys only if I'm leaving for the mainland.

When you see people nearby with firearms in their hands, you are still sure of their adequacy. If someone does something, he will not run away from the island anywhere - this knowledge acts as a limiter.

253 000 R

can reach a fine for drunk driving. But mostly tourists are fined, not local residents.

The crime statistics in Longyearbyen include both theft and car theft. Usually they are made by drunken tourists.

For drunk driving, a fine of 12-35 thousand crowns (87-253 thousand rubles) and deprivation of a driver's license. The blood alcohol limit is 0.02 ppm. A policeman can't pay off a bribe here. Authorities also carry out raids in search of drugs. The fine for the seizure of drugs is 4000-9000 kroons (28,900-65,000 R). Possible deportation.

Leisure

The answer to the question of how to spend leisure time depends on the weather. In clear weather, you can go snowmobiling or dog sledding. Around the city, mountains and valleys are a paradise for lovers of mountain or cross-country skiing. In summer you can go hiking, boating, kayaking.

On polar nights and bad weather, I go to the gym. There is a 25-meter swimming pool and a gym, a climbing wall and a hall for team games. Local residents themselves initiate and conduct yoga, kickboxing, table tennis classes. For an annual gym membership, I pay 1950 kroons (14,100 R).

Norwegians are a nation of skiers. Skiing is very popular in Svalbard. A special machine paves the track through the city for personal training. In April, a ski marathon is held, both amateurs and Olympians participate in it - about 900 people in total. Races are held in summer: marathon, trail competitions.

The music festivals Polar Jazz and Dark Season Blues bring diversity to cultural life. A ticket for 4 days of the jazz festival costs 1800 crowns (13,000 R).

Eventually

For some, Svalbard is isolation, a test of harsh climate, polar night and high cost. For me, this is a calm, confident life in an ecological environment with the ability to engage in any activity right outside the doorstep. The cold and the absence of trees do not bother me. When I want a change of scenery, I buy a plane ticket and fly to warm countries or to a family in Russia.

With all the expenses here, I manage to save 20-40% of my salary and not live on the principle of “paycheck to paycheck”. I do not plan to leave yet: I am interested in watching how the Arctic develops and being a witness of global warming.

Encyclopedic YouTube

• 1 / 5

  The area of ​​the archipelago is 61022 km².

  Consists of three major islands- West Spitsbergen, North East Land and Edge Island; seven smaller islands - Barents Island, White, Land of Prince Karl, Kongsoya (King's Island), Bear, Svensköya, Wilhelm Island; as well as groups of islands, small islets and skerries, with a total area of ​​621 km².

  The largest islands:

  Island	Area (km²)
  West Spitsbergen	37 673
  Northeast Earth	14 443
  Edge	5074
  barents	1288
  White	682
  Land Prince Karl	615
  Kongsoya	191
  Bearish	178
  Svenskøya	137
  Wilhelm	120
  Others (total area)	621
  Total	61 022

  natural conditions

  Mountain relief. The most high point islands - Mount Newton (1712 m) in Western Svalbard. Glaciers occupy 35.1 thousand km² - more than half of the area of ​​the archipelago. The shores are indented by fjords. Permafrost rocks - layer thickness up to 200 m. Natural thawing of soils in summer ranges from 0.5 to 2.6 m.

  Large deposits of high-calorific coal are estimated at 10 billion tons. A unique feature of Svalbard is also a significant number of rocks with fossilized remains of plants and animals. In 2007, a Norwegian group of paleontologists managed to discover the remains of the largest pliosaurus in the archipelago. Pliosaurus funkei. The high diversity of geological rocks of the archipelago is explained by its long migration through the Earth's mantle, during which Svalbard visited different climatic zones.

  The archipelago is located in a seismically active zone, earthquakes with a magnitude of 4-5 points on the Richter scale are noted, the possibility of earthquakes up to 6-7 points is expected.

  Nature

  The climate is harsh, the vegetation is not rich, the plants are low and cold-resistant. At the beginning of summer, the tundra is heavily swamped due to snowmelt, and the water level in the rivers is high. In general, the southern part of Svalbard (zero zone) is free of snow in summer, although glaciers are found in the vicinity of all settlements. Red algae are often found on glaciers, giving the snow and ice a pinkish tint. Despite the round-the-clock polar day, the temperature difference between day and night in summer is noticeable and can reach 5-10 degrees Celsius. The first snowfalls occur in September, although snow is not uncommon at the end of August. Due to the relatively mild climate, Svalbard is also popular with tourists during the polar night, when stable snow and ice coverage makes snowmobiling possible.

  As a rule, Caledonides participate in the structure of the archipelago. But they are more like the Caledonians of Greenland than Scandinavia. However , both are products of the Early Paleozoic Iapetus Ocean , which opened around the beginning of the Cambrian about 550 million years ago . This ancient ocean was located in equatorial latitudes in the submeridional direction from 30° S. sh. (ancient coordinates) to the north, between the ancient continents Baltica and Canada-Greenland. The structure of Svalbard also includes more ancient rocks (Baikalian folding). Apparently, this is a part of the Barents Sea Plate, which is of Proterozoic-Early Cambrian age. Much of the basement of Svalbard was formed somewhere on the active margin of the ancient Iapetus Ocean about 500 Ma in the Early Ordovician, and is island-arc igneous formations badly folded during the Silurian continental collision. By the beginning of the Silurian, the Iapetus ocean began to shrink, carrying the Baltic towards Canada-Greenland, (450-440 million years ago) the British Isles, the island of Newfoundland and Svalbard, which experienced a strong uplift and volcanic eruptions to the middle-end of the Silurian. Then there was the final collision of the Baltic (Scandinavia), the British Isles, Greenland, Newfoundland and North America (Lawrence). The remains of ancient island arcs, limestones, clastic oceanic rocks of the Iapetus Ocean were crushed and lifted up to 9-11 thousand meters. At the point of collision of these parts of the world, a mountain range rose higher than today's Himalayas. 400 million years ago, Scandinavia was already connected to Greenland, and Svalbard was somewhere between them. The British Isles, Newfoundland and North America were also joined together. In the Late Paleozoic, granitoids were intruded in places. The current deposits of copper, chromium, nickel, titanium, iron, zinc, uranium and other metals, which are now located on the Kola Peninsula, in Scandinavia, Greenland, Svalbard, on British Isles and on east coast North America, formed precisely in that era.

  Legal status of Svalbard

  In 1920, as part of the Peaceful Paris Conference, the Spitsbergen Treaty was concluded, which consolidated Norway's sovereignty over the archipelago, but at the same time, all states parties to the Treaty had the right to carry out commercial and research activities on the basis of full equality and the demilitarized status of the archipelago (Article 3). According to article 2 of the Treaty, Norway received the right to protect and restore flora and fauna, although concern for the ecological situation was not typical for that time. In Article 8, Norway undertook to create a Mining Charter regulating economic activity in Svalbard, while the charter should not give privileges, monopolies and benefits to any country, including Norway. In 1925 the Mining Charter for Svalbard was adopted along with the National Svalbard Law.

  History

  Presumably, Russian Pomors and Vikings discovered the archipelago in the 12th century. Since 1194, Svalbard has been mentioned in Norwegian chronicles. [ ] Svalbard is translated as "cold shores".

  Since the mid-1920s, Svalbard has become world famous as a base for polar aviation - for example, Roald Amundsen's flights on seaplanes with the money of the American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth. On May 21, 1925, Amundsen leaves Svalbard for Alaska via the North Pole, but does not fly and returns to Svalbard. May 11, 1926 starts from Svalbard Amundsen-Ellsworth-Nobile expedition on an airship designed by Umberto Nobile. Having flown over the Pole (piloted by the airship Nobile), the expedition landed in Alaska. Under Mussolini, Umberto Nobile, already a general and an honorary member of the ruling fascist party, on May 23, 1928, decided to repeat the flight to the North Pole. Starting from Svalbard, he reached the Pole, but on the way back the airship crashed. Amundsen, who flew out in search of Nobile, died, and the surviving crew members of the airship were saved on July 12 by the Soviet icebreaker Krasin.

  In the post-war years, coal mining in the archipelago was resumed by Norwegian companies and Arktikugol, which also acted as the main representative of the Soviet Union in the Arctic. The gradual depletion of proven reserves in the mines of the archipelago led to a reduction in production everywhere except the Norwegian Sveagruva. As a result, the Norwegian government began to focus Spitsbergen on the development of tourism and expeditionary and scientific base. Arktikugol could not cope with the task of diversifying economic activities and in the post-Soviet period is subsidized from the state budget. Expenses for maintaining the activities of the former Soviet concessions in Svalbard in 2006 alone amounted to 395.6 million rubles.

  Also, since 1949, Soviet fishing voyages to Svalbard for fish were resumed. The first major expedition in 1949 caught 462 tons of herring.

  Current state

  Although the Svalbard archipelago is controlled by the Kingdom of Norway and has been officially part of it since 1925, there are differences related to taxation (tax-free zone), environmental protection, protection of the rights of the local population and military activities (demilitarized zone).

  The islands have two official languages ​​- Norwegian and Russian; Russian citizens do not need a visa to visit the archipelago.

  Coal mining in the mines is carried out by the Norwegian company Store Norske, and also under concession by the Russian state trust Arktikugol (formerly the Soviet trust). Here (the Barentsburg mine) is the northernmost operating railway in the world, which is almost completely underground. Previously railways there were several and they passed along the surface. All mined coal is spent on heating Barentsburg itself, that is, the Russian enterprise is a planned unprofitable and partly an image project.

  At present, Svalbard is one of the centers of polar and subpolar tourism; both large cruise ships from northern Europe and specialized ice-class tourist ships for excursions in the Arctic regularly stop in the port of Longyearbyen. The city has several hotels (including SAS Radisson), bars and restaurants with arctic cuisine (for example, the Kroa restaurant "On the edge of the earth"). There is a polar museum and the Svalbard International University, a significant scientific work for the study of climate, geology and glaciology. In summer and winter, hiking, water (kayaks and boats), snowmobile excursions and expeditions depart daily from the city.

  In the 2000s, the World Seed Vault, the so-called "Doomsday Vault", was built on the island with the money of the Norwegian government. This vault contains a seed bank of both cultivated and wild plants, designed to survive even in a nuclear war. In addition, on the Berget Plateau there are antennas of the SvalSAT satellite station, an incoherent scatter radar EISCAT, as well as the observatory for the study of the northern lights KHO. Svalbard is connected to the mainland by a submarine fiber-optic cable, within Barentsburg, Kolesbukhta and Longyearbyen, there is a cellular connection of both Russian (MegaFon) and Norwegian operators.

  Population

  The population of the archipelago is about 2600 people (as of January 1, 2009). Of these, 69.9% are Norwegians, 18.3% are Russians and Ukrainians, and 0.4% are Poles. The island has a completely visa-free regime, that is, representatives of all nations that signed the Spitsbergen Treaty of 1920 have the right to live and work. From a practical point of view, despite the lack of immigration and customs controls, the harsh climate and high cost of living in Longyearbyen effectively limit the labor migration of service and tourism workers. After the collapse of the USSR, a number of former Arktikugol employees moved permanently to Longyearbyen, while the population of Russian mining villages continued to decline in proportion to the fall in coal production.

  The largest settlement is Longyearbyen, with about 2,000 people, the majority being Norwegians. It is also the administrative center of the archipelago. Other settlements:

  • Russian mining villages: Barentsburg (470 people), Pyramida (3-4 people in winter, about 15 in summer, mostly mothballed) and Grumant (mothballed);
  • Norwegian International Research Center Ny-Ålesund (about 30 people, more than 100 in summer);
  • the Norwegian mining village of Sveagruva (90 people, with more than 300 workers from Longyearbyen);
  • Polish research station Hornsund (10 people).

  There is also a mothballed settlement-port of Kolesbukhta, which was previously connected with Grumant by rail along the coast. At present, the road has fallen into disrepair, and the tunnel near the village of Grumant is backfilled as a result of ground movements.

  Religion

  Longyearbyen has the only active Lutheran church with its own clergyman. In Barentsburg - an Orthodox chapel. In agreement with the Russian Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church in Norway, the Lutheran pastor ministers to the faithful of these churches.

  Economy

  Since the beginning of the 20th century, coal mining has become the basis of the economy in Svalbard. At the same time, local coal seams, as a rule, have access directly from the slope of the mountains, and many places of coal occurrence are visible to the naked eye. This geological formation has given rise to numerous small mines and coal cuts along coastline, which opened and closed as the reservoirs were depleted and explored. The size of the settlements on Svalbard usually corresponded to the thickness of the nearby coal mines.

  As coal reserves were depleted, the Norwegian authorities tried to diversify the island's economy through the development

  The island of Svalbard remains for most Russians a kind of "terra incognita" - unexplored land. Some people even find it difficult to answer the question about the nationality of this territory. Most people only know that Svalbard is located somewhere far to the north, beyond the Arctic Circle, and the Russian Federation has some right to it.

  Is it worth comparing this island with the Kuriles? We will clarify this issue below. Despite the location "almost at the North Pole", traveling to Svalbard is quite popular. About when to go to the polar piece of land, where to stay and what to see, we will tell in this article.

  Where is the island of Svalbard

  Let's start with a small correction. The fact is that the definition of "island" in relation to Svalbard will be incorrect. This is an archipelago. It lies only an hour and a half from the North Pole. That is why a typical landscape is an endless snowy desert, permafrost, polar bears.

  The archipelago, with a total area of ​​sixty-one thousand square kilometers, consists of three big islands, seven small and a large number quite small. Only the largest one is truly inhabited - Western Svalbard (37,673 km 2). There is the only airport and the capital of the region, the city of Longyearbyen.

  In addition to it, there are villages in Western Svalbard: Barentsburg, Ny-Alesund, Grumant and Pyramiden. The last two are now depopulated. On other islands (North-East Land, Edge, Barents, Belom, Kongsoya, Wilhelma, Svenskoya), no more than a dozen people live, and even then only in the summer. The population of the entire archipelago does not exceed three thousand people.

  

  Climate

  Spitsbergen Island lies in the Arctic Ocean between 76 and 80 degrees north latitude and 10°-32° east longitude. However, this location does not mean at all that the archipelago is a continuous arctic desert. Thanks to the Svalbard current (an offshoot of the Gulf Stream), the sea near the coast never freezes. The climate in the archipelago is not as severe as in other places at the same latitudes. For example, the average air temperature in January here is only 11-15 degrees below zero. In July, the thermometer rises only to +6 °C.

  There are two tourist seasons here: from March to May, lovers of winter fun come and those who want to join the harsh polar winter. They ride snowmobiles, admire the northern lights. From June to August, the archipelago is visited by a completely different audience. Tourists enjoy kayaking among icebergs, watching polar bears. There are those who consider this archipelago as a transit base on the way to conquering the North Pole.

  

  Nature

  Since Barents described what he saw in the local waters great amount whales, many fishing boats rushed to the shores. Soon, Denmark and Great Britain began to make their claims to the islands. In the 60s of the eighteenth century, two scientific expeditions organized by M. Lomonosov visited here.

  Despite the fact that the Russians did not build a single village here, some Pomors came here in the summer to fish. When there were critically few animals left on the archipelago, the islands were abandoned for a hundred years. A new surge of interest in Svalbard arose at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, when mankind set out to reach the North Pole. The ice-free waters and relatively mild climate of the island were used by Arctic expeditions. Svalbard became the main starting base.

  

  Svalbard Island: who owns it?

  When powerful deposits of coal were found on the archipelago, interest in the islands lost beyond the Arctic Circle escalated again. But in 1920, the question of the state ownership of the lands was finally decided by the world. In Paris, the so-called Svalbard Treaty was signed, according to which the archipelago retreated under the sovereignty of Norway. However, according to this agreement, all parties to the agreement (Great Britain, USA, France, Japan, Sweden, Italy, the Netherlands and later the USSR) retained the right to develop minerals.

  Do I need a visa to visit the archipelago?

  Theoretically no. After all, it doesn’t matter whose island Svalbard is, citizens of all of the above signatory countries can freely visit the archipelago. However, in practice, getting to Svalbard straight from Russia is not so easy. Only occasionally go there during the season charter flights, and seats on planes are reserved for polar explorers or civil servants. Therefore, tourists are forced to fly via Oslo (by SAS and Norwegian Airlines). And this requires a multiple entry Schengen visa to enter Norway. You can also visit the archipelago during a luxury cruise on ocean liner"Captain Khlebnikov".

  

  Tourism

  The Norwegian authorities very quickly reoriented the economy of the archipelago in the face of a decrease in the number of whales and polar bears and falling coal prices. Now the main bet on ecotourism. The direction is new. So far, only 2,000 tourists visit the cold islands every year. Do not contribute to the development of this industry and prices. Everything is expensive here: from a hotel room (the simplest economy option will cost a hundred dollars a night) to food. However, this does not stop wealthy tourists. Climbing glaciers, sea rafting, dog sledding, collecting fossils (there are a lot of them on the archipelago) - all this is included in the mandatory program.

  The islands are a duty-free trade zone. Thanks to her, the population of the archipelago lives more prosperously than the Norwegians on the continent. The island of Svalbard is protected from labor migrants. Work at many mines has been stopped and they have been converted into museums. Only Russian miners do not stop coal production. Although this production is unprofitable and is subsidized by the state.

  money scandal

  In 1993, the Moscow Court minted a commemorative coin "The Island of Svalbard". It featured a polar bear and a map of the archipelago. Since the money had the inscription "Russian Federation", Norway perceived this as an encroachment on its territory. The diplomatic scandal was settled only when the money was withdrawn from circulation. Those left in hand are in high demand.

  Spitsbergen Island is a special territory, a lifeless polar desert with glaciers, cold dark ocean waters and dead mountains resembling shark teeth. It was on Svalbard that the storyteller Andersen appointed the possessions of the snow queen. There is only cold and eternity. Spitsbergen Island is a special territory, a lifeless polar desert with glaciers, cold dark ocean waters and dead mountains resembling shark teeth. It was on Svalbard that the storyteller Andersen assigned the possessions of the snow queen. There is only cold and eternity. Looking at the deserted shores of Svalbard, it is difficult to understand what draws people to this inhospitable cold land. Most likely, this is not money, people infected with polar fever live here, freedom from people and worries. Here you especially feel that you are not just a person - you are eternity.

  Formally, the Svalbard archipelago belongs to Norway and, according to its legal status, exists according to Norwegian laws, however, according to the social contract, about 50 countries can establish their villages on the island, fish and mine coal. Currently, there are three Norwegian settlements on Svalbard, one Polish station and three Russian settlements, of which one is active and two are mothballed. So, it is difficult to say exactly which country the Svalbard archipelago actually belongs to.

  
  
  
  
  

  There are many northern records on Svalbard: the most northern university, house of culture, church. Even the capital of Svalbard, the city of Longyearbyen, according to Wikipedia, is the northernmost settlement in the world with a population of more than a thousand people.

  If you like original porcelain, then perhaps you will be interested in lemongrass dishes. Of course, lemongrass cannot be classified as a vital kitchen utensil, but in such an elegant dish, a sliced ​​lemon can last a week right on the kitchen table.