Independent travel to China tips. The cheapest way to travel in China

The article will be useful to those who travel to China for the first time. As I get new useful knowledge, the article will be supplemented. Suppose you have already decided to fly to China, the route is more or less developed. But there are concerns about how to move within the country, buy food, and most importantly, how not to waste time and money, but to enjoy the journey.

For those who have not yet bought plane tickets to the Middle Kingdom, I described in detail the algorithm buying air tickets to China via skyscanner in this article and via momondo in another.

Skyscanner, a useful service, but for moving directly within the country, more suitable is ctrip.com. Here you can book tickets for airplane, so on train. How to book flights for domestic flights China spoke in an article about Chinese Airlines. But it makes sense to dwell on booking and buying a train ticket.

Trains in China. How to book and buy a train ticket in China?

Go to the main page of the site ctrip.com and select the trains tab (Trains). Decide on a direction. Let it be a train Beijing - Shanghai as of October 31, 2016. Click Find trains.

Before us train timetable window. Since this direction is one of the most popular in the country, there are no problems with the choice. We were given 41 results for a given day. Prices vary, depending on the level of comfort and travel time.

Choose the option you like and click book(book)

If you plan to purchase several tickets at once, you can add Contact details adults and children by clicking on the appropriate buttons (add an adult / Add a child). Below we are asked to choose delivery method electronic ticket. If there is no formal address in China, the Delivery option is not suitable for us. Choose the option to send the purchased train ticket by e-mail(Pickup). Specify the name and contact email. We agree to the terms and click pay(Pay).

The process of paying for tickets online has already been repeatedly described in articles on how to buy plane tickets, I don’t want to repeat myself. After clicking on the Pay button, you will see a standard page for filling in payment data. After entering the necessary information and confirming the purchase, a confirmation of the train ticket booking will be sent to the email address you provided. Please note that the service takes 40 yuan for the ability to book online trains in China. Service charges may vary for different destinations. Be careful.

So, if the payment was successful, you will receive the confirmation similar sample.

Important! This is just a confirmation, you will need the ticket itself pick up directly at the station. Together with the passport of the passenger for whom the ticket was issued and the confirmation of the reservation (printed out or saved on a mobile device), you arrive at the station in advance and stand in line where tickets are sold. You show your passport, confirmation and only after that you get a train ticket. It's better to arrive early. Let's say the procedure for obtaining a train ticket in Shanghai took me about an hour.

It would not be superfluous to say that the trains in China today are super modern. Sometimes, it is more profitable to travel from city to city by train than by plane. It takes longer to travel directly by train, but choosing a plane, you will need to get to the airport, check in in advance, etc. Trains in China are high-speed, the journey from Beijing to Shanghai takes less than six hours.

Common phrases in Chinese from a native speaker.

In an article about learning Chinese, I already shared these phrases. I don't think it would be superfluous to repeat.

Hello. - 你 好 (nǐ hǎ o)

How are you? - 你好吗？ (nǐ hǎ o ma？)

Goodbye. - 再 见 (zai jian)

What is your name? - 您 贵 姓 (nín guì xìng)

You have.. - 有 没 有 (yǒ u mei yǒ u)

I would like.. - 我 要 (wǒ yao)

What is the price? - 多 少 钱 (duō shǎ o qián)

It's too expensive. - 太 贵 了 (tài guile)

Big. - 大 (da)

Small. - 小 (xiǎ o)

Today. - 今天 (jīntiān)

Tomorrow. - 明天 (míngtiān)

Yesterday. - 昨天 (zuótiān)

I do not need it. - 不 要 (bú yao)

Agree or true. - 对 (duì)

Disagree or incorrect. - 不 对 (bú duì)

Yes. - 是 (shì)

No. - 不 是 (bú shì)

Thank you. - 谢 谢 (xie xiè)

My pleasure. - 不 用 谢 (bú yòng xiè)

Where is.. - 在 哪 里 (zai nǎ li)

Toilet. - 厕 所 (cè suǒ)

How long in time.. - 多 久 (duō jiǔ)

Here. - 这 里 (zhè lǐ)

There. - 那 里 (na li)

Go straight. - 前 (qian)

Turn left. - 左 (zuǒ)

Turn right. - 右 (you)

Stop. - 停 (ting)

I do not understand. - 我 听 不 懂 (wǒ tīng bù dǒ ng)

Numbers

30 (etc. by meaning)

Days of the week

Monday. - 星期一 (xīngqī yī)

Tuesday. - 星期二 (xīngqī èr)

Wednesday. - 星期三 (xīngqī sān)

Thursday. - 星期四 (xīngqī sì)

Friday. - 星期五 (xīngqī wǔ)

Saturday. - 星期六 (xīngqī liù)

Sunday. - 星期天 (xīngqī tiān)

How to buy a bus ticket in China?

Buses are more difficult. As far as I know, on the same ctrip.com you can also book a bus ticket, but for this you will need to use the Chinese version of the site. Accordingly, if you do not speak Chinese, this will not work.

Two years ago, on my first trip to China, I used a method that made my life so much easier. Arriving at the next station, he showed pre-printed signs in Chinese with useful phrases. Worked with a bang.

PSD and JPEG files with common phrases in Chinese and translation in English can be downloaded from Yandex disk. This is how the phrases will look on an A4 sheet.

Metro in China

I did not use the subway much in China, I did it only in Guangzhou and Chengdu. Like almost everything in China today, the subway in China is very modern. The cars are clean, the names of the stations are duplicated in English, there are enough screens with a map of movements, it will be difficult even for blondes to pass their stop.

The main thing is not to get on the subway in China during rush hour. Having taken a ride on the subway one morning, I barely managed to get out of the car at the station I needed. The people are unrealistic, everything is like herring in a barrel.

People in China

The people in China are some of the friendliest I've ever seen. And if you want to help, probably the best. If you have any difficulties, do not hesitate, there will be a person who will tell you the way or help you buy a ticket for transport.

According to many, the Chinese are not clean. They throw cleanings right on the street, spit juicy and breathy, but you need to understand that this is part of a different culture. We are probably doing something that brings them into a stupor too. This is fine.

update. Having lived in China for a sufficient time, I came to the conclusion that not everything is so rosy. Yes, in terms of travel, China is one of the easiest countries and people will really come to your rescue. But for myself I made a conclusion - in this country, many people are two-faced and cunning. You should always rely only on yourself and try to make everything depend on you.

Food in China

Food in China is very different, for every taste and budget. If you are a budget traveler, you can eat in the cafes on the street, like the vast majority of the Chinese population. The most common dish, of course, is noodles and its various variations. There are also many vegetable dishes, meat, of course, rice. There is an analogue of our dumplings, called chow show. Delicious, filling and inexpensive. A large bowl can be bought for ten yuan.

If you are not used to eating on the street, in China you will find small cafes and restaurants on every corner. By and large, the food is the same as on the street, but it costs more. AT major cities, such as Chengdu or Shanghai, you can easily find "European" bakeries. Lots of fast food like macdonalds and kfc.

Hot pot is very common here, when food is cooked directly on your table from fresh vegetables, meat, fish and everything you order. For 50 yuan, several people can eat from the belly.

You may be interested in learning a little more about the country you are going to, as well as looking at the provinces of China on the map. If we talk about the administrative division of the Middle Kingdom, today it looks like this: 22 provinces, 5 autonomous regions, 4 cities of central subordination (Beijing, Chongqing, Shanghai, Tianjin), 2 special regions (Hong Kong, Macau).

Below are the provinces of China on the map.

VPN

A VPN is very useful if you are going to travel in China. Some sites in the Middle Kingdom are blocked, so if there is no vpn, you will have to abandon facebook, twitter, instagram, google services and some others. Sites such as Yandex, VKontakte, Skype are allowed in China, they do not need a vpn. It's up to you to decide, you need a few blocked sites on your trip.

For those who decide to use vpn, I recommend the one that I successfully use myself. It is called Hideme.ru. This solution is paid, but of all the free ones I tried, none worked properly. The program is easy to use and does not slow down the speed of the Internet.

Adapter

Today in China, quite often you can find the same connectors that we use in Russia, nevertheless, an adapter is a necessary thing. Do not be afraid that you go to China without it, you can easily buy an adapter on every corner. Just in case, the network connector in China looks like the photo below.

• All the best in Hong Kong -

Did you find this material helpful and what is your experience of traveling in China? Share in the comments!!!

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February 18th, 2015

China is one of the most visited countries in the world with over 55 million tourists a year. China attracts with its rich history; incredible monuments, temples, towers, as well as scenery and hearty food.Here are collected the most interesting and beautiful sights of the Middle Kingdom, which you definitely need to visit at least once in your life:

Rewind time and enjoy the distinctive Chinese architecture of the over 900 year old scenic village of Hongcun.

The famous Peking duck, of course, can only be tasted in Beijing. And the best place for this is the Da Dong Duck Roast restaurant.

Ride the 1,580-meter Great Wall toboggan run from Mutianyu.

Conquer the sand dunes of the Gobi Desert on a camel ride that will take you straight to Yueyaquan Lake in the Dunhuang Oasis.

An excellent fishing spot is the Xiapu Shoal, located along the southeast coast of China in Fujian Province.

Scorpions and other Chinese culinary delights can be sampled at the Wangfujing Night Market in Beijing.

To date, about 1,800 fortified multi-story diaolou mansions have survived in Kaiping County, which were built in the early 20th century to protect local residents.

Walk along the waterfront in Shanghai.

Enjoy the picturesque view of one of the largest waterfalls in Asia, Huangguoshu.

Take a sunbath on the beaches of Hainan.

Forbidden City and Palace Museum of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in Beijing.

Walk through the 12 km Longtan Valley and admire the reddish-purple quartz sandstone.

This is a traditional brunch in South China, during which dim sum is served - small portions of dessert, fruits, vegetables or seafood. You can taste it in the City Hall at the Maxim's Palace restaurant.

An open escalator will take you to the best boutiques in Hong Kong.

Did you know that the floating mountain islands on the planet Pandora from the famous Avatar movie were created in the image of a real place on Earth. This miracle is located in the Zhangjiajie National Park.

Fans of unusual travel can ride a donkey through the Gobi Desert in Inner Mongolia and spend the night in a yurt.

Climb the Lushan Mountains and you will understand why artists and poets come here in search of inspiration.

All gamblers in China gather in Macau, the only place where gambling is officially allowed.

You can see your reflection in Tianchi Mirror Lake or Heavenly Lake. This is the deepest lake in China, which is located on top of Changbaishan Mountain.

Wander through a village made entirely of ice at the world's largest ice and snow festival in Harbin.

Take a boat trip along the mountain range on the Golden Stone Coast, Dalian.

Yu Yuan Garden in Shanghai is a great place for a leisurely stroll.

Ancient Buddhist temples are displayed in the Yungang Cave Grottoes in Shanxi Province.

What could be better than cycling through the park and surroundings of Xihu Lake in Hangzhou?

The Terracotta Army in Xi'an will impress even the most sophisticated tourist.

Play with the golden monkey in the Shennongjia forest area.

Spicy pork brains in simmering chili oil is a challenge for your taste buds.

The fairy-tale cave of the Reed Flute, hidden in the depths of Chinese soil. Only there you can see stalagmites and stalactites illuminated in different colors.

Funny hugging pandas in Chongqing city.

Jiuzhaigou National Park is famous for its multi-level waterfalls and colored lakes.

According to rumors, the legend of Aladdin originated in the bazaar of the city of Urumqi.

Night lights of the fountain of the Great Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi'an.

Cruise along Eurasia's longest and most abundant river, the Yangtze, in Yunnan Province.

Visit the mausoleum of Mao Zedong - the symbol of communism in Tiananmen Square in Beijing.

Tiger Leaping Gorge in Lijiang is famous for its incredible panoramas and landscapes.

Tourists have a unique opportunity to celebrate another New Year according to the Chinese lunar calendar.

A magnetoplane or maglev is a magnetic levitation train that can reach speeds of up to 500 km/h.

Best China Vacation Destinations for Beginners independent travelers and those who have seen everything, but passed by the Great Wall of China.
Throughout China's history of over 5,000 years, the country has developed one of the richest and most mysterious cultures on our planet, with magnificent monuments, a great emperor, amazing evidence of religious worship, and works of culture and art that to this day remain one of the most of the most remarkable evidence of the flight of the creative thought of mankind.
Empires succeeded each other, China's borders expanded, but the traditional Chinese lands in the heart of China - Beijing and Xian - remained unchanged; the grandeur of the Yangtze River and the Guilin region, as well as the modern wonders of Shanghai and Hong Kong. In these lands, the great philosophers - Confucius, Lao Tzu and Zhuang Zhou, expounded their teachings about life and the laws of the universe, forming not only Chinese society, but also the society of the entire South Asian region as a whole. Many of the traditional China tours available to travelers are linked to these places and to China's most famous landmarks in the world, such as the Great Wall of China, the Terracotta Army, and the Forbidden City. There is also always the opportunity to see giant pandas in the Chengdu nature reserve, take a cruise on great river Yangtze or relax among the karst landscapes of the Guilin region.

8 reasons to take a solo trip to China

BEIJING
A visit to the Forbidden City gives a glimpse of the boundless power and wealth of generations of Chinese emperors.
THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA
For many, the Great Wall of China is a symbol of China and one of the most outstanding testimonies of ancient design thought.
TERRACOTTA ARMY
It is believed that the terracotta army, consisting of 8099 full-length figures of warriors, servants and horses, protected the Chinese emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife. The man-made necropolis was accidentally discovered by a farmer in 1974 near the city of Xi'an.
SHANGHAI
Shanghai, striking in its scale and speed of technological progress, is one of the most amazing cities in the world, which you must definitely visit.
YANGTSE RIVER
Cruise on the Yangtze River promises to be a calm and very spectacular event.
CHENGDU RESERVE
Chengdu is a sacred place for worshiping pandas. It is almost impossible to see pandas in the wild these days, but in Chengdu they can be safely observed in conditions as close as possible to their natural habitat.
HONG KONG
Cosmopolitan Hong Kong is a great place to start or end a trip - see for yourself with our.
CHINESE CUISINE
Chinese cuisine is as diverse as life itself; it has countless national dishes, and in each region they are prepared differently.

How to get to China

The country has more than 50 international and local airports. From Russia to China you can fly both on direct flights Air companies China or Aeroflot, with a change in Dubai (Emirates), Almaty (Air Astana) and other airlines, depending on which city is the first route of travel in China. By the way, the best idea would be to land in Hong Kong and start your journey from there, for example, to Hainan or Chengdu.

From Shanghai, it is convenient to get to Hangzhou to the Yellow Mountains, Guilin and Longzi.

When to go. Best time to visit China

With the weather in China, options are possible - the country is large. Depending on where you plan to go, focus on that region. In the north and south of the country, summers are hot and humid, with frequent rains. At the same time, winter in the northern regions of China (with a suffocatingly hot summer) is very cold and often the thermometer drops below -40 degrees Celsius. In the northwest, summers are less humid, but drier, the air temperature during this season can reach +47 degrees Celsius. In central China, located in the Yangtze River basin, it is hot in summer and quite cool in winter.
That's why best time to visit China spring - from March to April or autumn - in September and October when, despite the cool nights, the day is quite comfortable and the weather is perfect for excursions throughout the country. But still, just in case, it is worth taking an umbrella with you so as not to be caught off guard in the rain. Beach holiday season on the island of Hainan starts in October and lasts I'm at home.
It is worth coming to China in winter, despite the cold in most areas, for the spectacular Chinese New Year and Spring Festival celebrations that fall on end of January - February.

Visa to China

Russian citizens need a visa to travel to China.
1. international passport, the validity of which is not less than 6 months from the end of the trip, the passport must have at least one free page;
2. a completed questionnaire in Russian, English or Chinese V.2011A signed by the applicant. The questionnaire is filled in block letters (on a computer or by hand) without corrections and blots;
3. photograph 3×4 or 3.5×4.5 cm on a light background. The photo must be glued to the application form;
4. an invitation from a Chinese travel agency or a hotel with a red stamp. If the inviting party is a private person, a free-form invitation, stamped by the local police station, and a copy of the inviting person's ID.
5. hotel reservation for the entire stay;
6. original and copy of the policy health insurance for the entire duration of the trip, insurance coverage - at least $ 15,000;
7. air tickets;
IMPORTANT! If you are visiting China for the first time, you must provide a certificate of employment. When applying for a visa at the Chinese Consulate in Irkutsk, you must provide a certificate from the bank confirming the availability of funds in the account. Visa free transit visa-free transit allowed allowed in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Chengdu. In this case, tourists need to have permission to enter a third country and booked ticket with a departure date within the next 72 hours.
AT Hong Kong without a visa you can stay for 14 days. Macau visa on arrival and allows you to stay in Macau for no more than 30 days.
Visa on arrival you can also get on the island of Hainan if arriving direct international flight(Moscow - Sanya), or follow with a transfer in Hong Kong (Moscow - Hong Kong, Hong Kong - Sanya). The visa gives the right to stay on the island for no more than 15 days. In all other cases, you need to obtain a visa in advance at the Chinese consulate.

Features of planning a trip to China

We warn you right away, we are talking about an independent trip to China - a country not for the faint of heart, spoiled by all-inclusive tourists. If one day on the beach of Egypt, Turkey or Montenegro, it’s not the point, the thought came to mind, and why not wave yourself to China for two weeks to see everything? We answer: do not wave! Don't ruin your vacation and don't waste your money. What if you really want to? Or contact a travel agency, but better listen to our advice.
First, the study of China must be done progressively. First, go to, for example, passing through or somewhere else in Southeast Asia. Then purposefully in - try your luck and see the Chinese Las Vegas, perhaps compared with its original in the US. For the third time, going on vacation, again to Southeast Asia, book flights with a long stay at. Relax on the beaches of Hainan. And then, when the most “loyal” cities of China to tourists are traveled up and down, you can think about a long trip, two or three weeks, and even visit the country on a romantic visit, driving from Harbin to Sanya - by.
Secondly, why, in fact, we warn and almost dissuade from China: be prepared for the fact that not everyone in China speaks English, it will be more honest, almost no one, of course, except for schoolchildren and expats. You will have to explain with your fingers.
Thirdly, food, hotels, transport ... If you have already visited India, at least Goa and then you should go through this quest easily and naturally. To order something in a cafe - poke your finger at the picture, if there is no picture, then at the plate of the Chinese sitting at the next table. You can ask the waiter to give you a tour of someone else's plates - go along the tables and again poke your finger at what you liked more.
Hotels need to be booked well in advance. The Chinese love to travel always and everywhere, and they also love their homeland.
Transport in China is very specific. There will be smoking on the buses. Smoking is allowed on the trains. Airplanes do not smoke. And thanks to the convenience, it is always better to choose the plane. It's fast. simple and cheap. There are airports for international and domestic flights in China in almost every major city. Transportation in China is very well developed, and where a plane does not fly, there is always a train, if there are no railways, then there is a bus, there are no flights - there is some taxi driver or a private driver who is ready to take you to your destination for reasonable prices . Have patience, a philosophical attitude to everything that happens around and then independent travel to China will be the best.

Cities and attractions in China that everyone should see

BEIJING

The modern capital of China, the city of Beijing is a real microcosm in this amazing country with its intriguing contradictions and a great place to start exploring China's rich history, landscapes and sights. The majestic Tian An Men Square with monolithic monuments of the era of greatness of communism faces one of the most impressive sights of China - the Forbidden City, and crowds of people in the bustle of the city dissolve into the serene expanses of the Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace. The traditional "hatong" - the narrow, crowded streets of the city, rapidly disappearing from the map of the modern city - illustrate the more traditional side of Chinese life, while the Olympic Park, city restaurants and hotels speak eloquently of the other side of Chinese life. In both cases, travelers have a chance to lose themselves in this diverse and complex community - to feel its color for yourself, you should spend at least three days here.
One of the days of your stay in Beijing is worth spending on an excursion to the Forbidden City. This place served as the residence of several dynasties of Chinese emperors. The palace, known to us as the Forbidden City, was named so because it was forbidden to enter this territory to anyone except the emperor himself, his family and courtesans. Anyone who violated this rule and entered there without the permission of the emperor was supposed to be immediately executed. Today, the Forbidden City is one of the main attractions of the capital, allowing visitors to look into the world of unlimited power and wealth of the rulers of the Middle Empire. This architectural ensemble, which includes about 1000 buildings, is the largest and best preserved in China.
Two more sights of Beijing deserve attention, which are worth seeing at least once in a lifetime, no matter how “tourist attraction” they may seem - this is the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace.
Built in a strict Confucian style, the Temple of Heaven, completely restored for the opening of the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games, served as a huge arena for solemn ceremonies designed to ensure a bountiful harvest. The exquisite decoration of its halls and altars is permeated with symbolism. The Summer Palace, a beautiful oasis of palaces, temples, lakes and decorative bridges, served as a resting place for the emperor and his family during the dry and dusty summer season. Its huge recreational park and classical gardens, so popular with visitors and locals alike, have been named "a masterpiece of Chinese landscape design" by UNESCO. The temple was built over a number of years; at the same time, more than 100,000 workers labored to excavate the huge artificial lake, which today can be crossed by boat.
And of course, while in Beijing, do not miss the opportunity to appreciate one of the "new" wonders of the world - the Great Wall of China. Stretching along the borders of northern China, the Great Wall of China remains the country's most powerful symbol and one of the world's most impressive landmarks. The construction of its first sections began in the 4th century BC, and continued, along with constant reconstruction, until the 16th century.
The wall was built to contain the onslaught of warlike tribes and prevent their penetration into the north of China; over two million people are estimated to have died during its construction.
Nowadays, everyone can safely walk along the wall, enjoying the fabulous views that open up to the gaze of the traveler. Closest to Beijing is a section of the Great Wall of China - Badaling, which served as a kind of "gateway to the capital." If you want to see one of the most peaceful and spectacular places, you need to go to Jinshanlin. Due to the fact that this section of the wall is located far from Beijing, there are no large tourist groups that fill other sections of the wall.

WHERE TO LIVE. BEST HOTELS IN BEIJING
Located next to the east gate of the imperial summer palace, it offers relaxation in one of the most luxurious and impressive places in Beijing. Most of the rooms are furnished in a century old style. There is a private entrance to the territory of the Summer Palace, so this is the first thing that guests of the hotel can visit right in the morning.
More a budget option The Haoyuan Guesthouse. Nestled among two pretty courtyards, Haoyuan is located in the former residence of a wealthy Beijing banker. It is located away from the noisy city crowd; however Tian An Men Square is only 15-20 minutes walk from the hotel. The 16 rooms of the hotel are decorated in traditional Chinese style, and in the backyard of the hotel, you can easily immerse yourself in peace and quiet, really feel like you are in real China.

• DISCOUNTS AND SPECIAL OFFERS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN HOTELS IN BEIJING

CHENGDU

The calm city of Chengdu - the capital of the "fiery" Sichuan province, is reliably isolated from the rest of the country by mountain peaks that surround it with a kind of ring. Spicy dishes national cuisine, friendliness local residents, as well as many temples and tea houses, will provide you with some of the best opportunities in all of China to observe the local life. To the west, misty mountains stretch for hundreds of miles to the Tibetan plateau, and to the north, covered in thick bamboo forests, is home to one of China's most famous national symbols, the almost hermitic giant panda. They are extremely rare in the wild, but a visit to the panda sanctuary or research center located near the city of Chengdu guarantees the opportunity to get to know these magnificent animals more closely.

HAINAN

The Chinese call the sunny island with magnificent beaches and hotels their Hawaii. The island is located at the same latitude as the north of Vietnam. Therefore, the climate in Hainan is very warm most of the year, and the days are sunny and clear. There are clean sandy beaches and a number of high end hotels and resorts, many with their own private beaches.
Away from the coast, you can spend a day hiking in the rainforest or visiting a monkey sanctuary, although most people come here just to relax by the sea. Hainan Island can be easily reached from most major cities China. It develops at a dizzying pace, as a result of which it has lost some of its charm; but, nevertheless, this is a wonderful place for those who want to relax and combine excursions with beach holiday while traveling in China.

• DISCOUNTS AND SPECIAL OFFERS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN HAINAN HOTELS

SHANGHAI

Shanghai is a vivid illustration of the well-known phrase about the city of contrasts. He is the epitome of self-confident China in the 21st century. The local atmosphere of cosmopolitanism is very far from that which prevails in most other cities of the country. Surrounded by colonial buildings inspired by 1930s architecture, stroll along the waterfront, a glittering gem in East Asia's pre-war crown with views of Pudong's towering skyscrapers.
New Shanghai is made of glass and metal. Futuristic buildings can be found literally everywhere here, and they grow like mushrooms after rain. Further down the river is the French Concession - with streets dotted with shady alleys, with an excellent selection of bars and restaurants; this part of the city is quieter than others. The area brings to life the city's history from when Shanghai was an unremarkable fishing village, before the West's booming trade with China in the 19th century. In the aftermath of the infamous Opium Wars, a weakened China allowed a number of foreign governments, including the French, to open free-trade concessions. At the beginning of the 20th century, the concession became one of the first residential areas of the city with luxurious villas and green boulevards. Those days are long gone, but the area still radiates tranquility and is a great place to evening walks.
The area crossed by canals and exquisite flowering gardens also deserves the attention of travelers. Suzhou, a great place located just an hour by train from Shanghai. Water channels and tree-lined squares frame this area, which is renowned for its weaving tradition, with techniques that led to the opening of the famous Silk Museum. In the vicinity of Suzhou, there are picturesque villages on the water, such as Tongli, Zhouzhuang and Zhu Jia Jiao where ancient stone bridges cross winding canals and old merchant houses line narrow cobbled streets. The best of what these small villages have to offer is a rare chance to get acquainted with the era of the departed China; however, it can get quite crowded during the peak season; therefore, if you are going to visit the Suzhou area, it is better to plan to leave the hotel early in the morning to avoid crowds.

WHERE TO LIVE. BEST HOTELS IN SHANGHAI
Located in the heart of the Shanghai French concession, the villa Anting offers excellent quality accommodation at a great price. The hotel is housed in a building that blends well with the surrounding colonial buildings; numbers in Anting located very conveniently and comfortably furnished. It has both a traditional Chinese restaurant and a restaurant that serves traditional Western cuisine. But one of best features This hotel is considered to be lush green gardens, which will provide travelers with a welcome vacation away from the endless hustle and bustle of Shanghai.
For those who prefer to live in the heart of the city, it is better to choose a hotel conveniently located in the waterfront area Peninsula is one of the largest and most luxurious hotel in Shanghai. Peninsula housed in an Art Deco building. Rooms at the hotel are some of the most spacious in the city, some with great views of the river and the glittering buildings of Pudong.

• DISCOUNTS AND SPECIAL OFFERS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN SHANGHAI HOTELS

HANGZHOU

The Chinese consider their former capital Hangzhou one of the the best places in the country and most of the population prefers to relax here. Loved by millions, Hangzhou has earned in large part due to the picturesque views of West Lake - a landscape immortalized over the centuries by countless Chinese artists. Although the landscape of Hangzhou's waters has become less attractive than anywhere else these days, the calm atmosphere and greenery of the city sets it apart from other more famous places. After the crazy hustle and bustle of Shanghai and Beijing, this is a great place to rent a bike and go for a ride along the river to the neighboring hills. You can also visit the local tea plantation, which produces tea of ​​such high quality that it is regularly presented during the visits of heads of various states, including Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain. All of this, combined with the recent introduction of some very authentic and comfortable hotels, makes Hangzhou the perfect place to stay near the end of your trip.
In addition to exploring the city and exploring local attractions from Hangzhou, you can take a trip to one of the most sacred mountains in China - Huangshan - Yellow Mountain, located a three-hour drive from Hangzhou; so visiting this place goes well with a visit to this part of China, and which tourists often underestimate or simply overlook.
The mountain is very popular among the Chinese people, but if you experiment and spend the night in one of the local hotels, you will find that its peak is at your complete disposal. Sunrises here are delightful: the sun slowly rises, revealing a row of jagged peaks, melting into a sea of ​​clouds. So if you want something breathtaking and amazing, where you can take hundreds of photos "without a filter", be sure to get to Huangshan and climb it.

WHERE TO LIVE. THE BEST HOTELS IN HANGZHOU SURROUNDINGS
Surrounded by tea plantations and tiny villages untouched by the excesses of civilization, Amanfayun is the perfect place to unwind and pamper yourself. Designed in a traditional rustic style, each of the 47 rooms at this hotel are housed in typical village houses, some of which are over 100 years old. There is a tea house, several restaurants and a SPA-salon. The temples, lakes and other attractions of Hangzhou are just a 20-minute drive away.

• DISCOUNTS AND SPECIAL OFFERS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN HANGZHOU HOTELS

GUILIN

Guilin, a town located in southern China, evokes a sense of peace and has a relaxing effect on travelers than the more developed cities in the north of the country. Sheer limestone peaks behind the flat plain around the city form a stunning landscape that has been one of the main motifs of Chinese art and literature since time immemorial. Guilin itself is a pretty nice town, but it mostly serves as the gateway to the region. Yangshuo and Lushen are places that can be easily reached to enjoy the views. A little further on there are several lovely villages untouched by civilization, where you can see interesting festivals of local minorities.

YANGSHO

A river cruise from Guilin to the small market town of Yangshuo is a popular and highly affordable way to see the jagged Mountain peaks from limestone. Sailing downstream, you can see the classic scenery of provincial China: herds of buffalo grazing, farmers cultivating the fields, and fishermen unloading their day's catch. Despite the fact that in recent years, Yangshuo has become more and more popular with travelers, he still remains calm and friendly. A trip to Yangshuo is also a great opportunity to explore the countryside by bike, car or more modestly on foot. On many tributaries of the river there is an opportunity to go rafting.
Evenings in Yangshuo are best spent with fishermen who use specially trained cormorants instead of rods to fish, or over dinner at one of the city's many local restaurants. There is also the opportunity to see the breathtaking sound and light show Yangshou impressions directed by Zhang Yimou, who directed the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

LONGJI

Located two hours north of Guilin City, the ancient rice terraces of Longji - Dragon's Backbone offer a delightful opportunity to get up close and personal with the traditions of the Zhuang people living in the area. Overnight stay at the hotel among the terraces is a great opportunity to escape from the hustle and bustle of modern China and get to know the traditional rural lifestyle. You can spend hours strolling through the villages scattered along the surrounding slopes, both on your own and with a guide. Although the local peasants are already quite accustomed to travelers from the West, it is still a great way to see a different side of life in China, different from the frantic rhythms of modern cities in this country.
Outside Longji, the terrain becomes more mountainous and the roads bumpy. This part of China is considered one of the least industrialized in the country. Those who are able to put up with modest living conditions and rough roads are rewarded with fantastic scenery, a variety of different minority cultures and visits to modest, almost untouched villages such as Chengyang. Those who are fond of the culture and traditions of China, in the vicinity of Longji, have a unique opportunity to get acquainted with the local festivities that take place here throughout the year. One of these interesting celebrations is the Lushen festival in honor of a wind musical instrument made of reed, which is held in early October. The festival program includes performances by musicians, as well as various performances, dances, bullfights and horse races.

Agree, we know not so much about China. This is a rather closed socialist country with its own specifics. China is unlike any other country in the world, including Asian ones. The Chinese are completely self-sufficient - they do not know English, they have their own rules of life, their own characteristic mentality, their own Internet, search engine, their own social networks, their own payment system. The whole world uses Made in China things - from towels to phones, but no one knows what China really is ..

You don't need to know Chinese to travel in China. Moreover, many live there for years without knowing Chinese and feel great. Yes, not all Chinese speak English, and far from everywhere. Most often these are young people living in large cities. But - for travelers this is not a problem, because you can always use such means of communication as:

Gestures in China

Facial expressions and gestures are a universal international language that is understood by most peoples of the world. In fact, people perceive a huge part of the information non-verbally. It doesn't even need language. Where to find a place to sleep, where you can eat, how much a product or service costs - all this can be explained, literally, on the fingers.

Translators and communication apps in China

Mobile applications for online and offline translation. If there is no internet, you can use offline-GoogleTranslate and any other dictionaries and translators, such as Pleco Chinese Dictionary, Chinese-Russian Dictionary and others. But the best option if you have mobile Internet is Baidu Translate. You substitute the microphone, speak the necessary phrase in English, and it is immediately translated into Chinese in writing. It is best to download this program, although all Chinese, even in not very large cities, have such a translator on their phone, and if they do not understand what you are trying to convey to them in English, they will definitely use it, they will not even ask for it necessary.

Drawings

If neither gestures nor Google Translate helped, and there is no Internet on the phone, and your interlocutor does not understand that you can use Baidu Translate, that is, the most the best remedy is a schematic drawing. If you need to find out where and at what time the bus runs to the place you need, just draw it on paper. For example, when I needed to know how to get to Huangshan National Park, I drew mountains, a bus, and a clock with a question mark. Everything became clear.

Preparations for hieroglyphs

These are magical pieces of paper that open all the doors, you just have to show them and poke your finger at the right word. All words and titles settlements that you may need on the road, it is advisable to prepare, print or save screenshots with them on your phone in advance. For all other words and names that become necessary along the way, it is best to ask to write the first Chinese who more or less speaks English and who you meet on the way.

I did this all the time, and it saved me a lot. No long explanations, silently show a piece of paper, and they give you a ticket or show you the way.

→In this note you can see and download pictures with some hieroglyphs:

Connection. Internet and mobile communication

SIM card

So, the simplest thing is to buy a Chinese SIM card in China mobile still at the airport. If it was not there, then find a store in the city and buy it there. For this you only need passport and 70 yuan for the simplest tariff with 2 GB of Internet. Do not buy SIM cards in private shops - they cost 2-3 times more expensive there.

Ask to call

If you didn’t manage to buy a SIM card or spared money, it doesn’t matter ( I, for example, could not buy it, although I really wanted to, and I do not regret). The Chinese are not Russians, and when asked to call, they do not shy away from you, but, on the contrary, they always respond willingly, it is even an honor for them that you are a foreigner, he turned to them with a request, and for them to help you is a joy. Just walk up to any person on the street and ask him to call from his phone. Maybe with gestures. I did that all the time. And they will not only give you a call, but they will also find all the necessary information and give you money ( it happened a couple of times).

WiFi in the cafe

In China, in fact, you will never be truly disconnected. Almost everywhere, even in a remote province and in the most godforsaken cafes there is wi-fi. Therefore, if you need to find out something, contact someone urgently, chat with your parents via Skype, go to almost any cafe and ask for a Wi-Fi password, and you don’t even have to order something there.

Ask to share WiFi

If there are no cafes on the horizon, and you are traveling by train or bus, and you urgently need to get some information about the place where you are going or contact those who are waiting for you, the easiest solution is to ask your neighbor to distribute you the Internet from your mobile phone.

At first, the Chinese themselves often offered me their Internet and always distributed it to me without any problems. When I realized that for them it was in the order of things, I began to use it constantly. I need the Internet, I ask, they give me. Everything is very simple. And don't be afraid to ask. This is not Russia, no one will look back at you with a stern look, saying: “Dude, are you crazy? Can't you dance a lezginka?

Blocked websites in China and VPN

As you probably know, resources such as Google, Facebook, Instagram, Wikipedia are blocked in China. But many Chinese, like people around the world, are getting around the bans with VPNs. I used different programs (for example, Super VPN), but the best for me in China was VPNRobot. You download it, open the application and press the connect button below, wait a bit for it to connect, and then calmly post your photos on Instagram.

Money

Exchangers

So, in large cities there are always currency exchange offices, and there are even with a very favorable rate. They meet in the center and at stations. Friends told me about it. I myself, honestly, did not find such, although I was actively looking for them. I found only one at the station, where they offered me such a predatory course that I refused. Until the end of my trip, I never changed a single dollar of mine. Maybe you'll have better luck.

ATMs

ATMs are everywhere in China. And they all accept regular VISA bank cards. In all the cities where I have been, and in all ATMs from different banks, I have always withdrawn money without any problems, and at a good rate. Only once did the ATM refuse to read my card, but at the nearest store, the sellers on a moped took me to another bank - it was faster and easier than explaining to me where it was. And another businessman told me that his platinum VISA card was not accepted by ATMs, so it’s better to use regular cards and don’t show off.

Transport

Trains. How to travel by train in China

There are several types of trains in China, they can be distinguished by the letter in front of the train number. So,

The main types of trains in China

Category "K". It's a train long distance With seating. The ticket says it's a hard seat. In reality, these are quite soft chairs, on which you can lean back and sleep peacefully if you drive at night ( pictured below). The train rides quite simple and friendly people. They will feed you and share Wi-Fi. The ticket for it is the most inexpensive. For example, I paid 172 yuan (1548 rubles) for the 16:00 trip from Guangzhou to Zhangzajie (about 1,000 km). In this video you can see how such a train looks from the inside.

Category "Z". The so-called "sleeper". Almost a copy of our reserved seat. Only there are no sides, but instead of them there are 3 shelves in a compartment on each side, the most convenient in the center. There are small half tables and seating in the hallway. The ticket said "hard sleeping car”, and I was preparing for the worst, but it turned out to be a new, clean, modern train with a soft mattress on the shelf, a snow-white pillow and a blanket, but no bed linen. Everything looked so clean that I did not even disdain to sleep like that, without bedding.

Washing area with three sinks is located separately from the toilet, which is very convenient because you do not have to wait in line to wash. No toilet paper, no soap. There are a couple of outlets where you can safely leave your phone on charge, no one will pull it off.

The train is cheap. I bought a ticket from Shanghai to Guangzhou (16 hours on the road - 1200 km) for 365 yuan (3285 rubles). Here's what a "sleeper" is:

Category "G". This is a speed train (2nd class). A fast, comfortable, ultra-modern train that travels at a speed of about 350 km/h. The place is seated, comfortable, if desired, you can recline and sleep. It took me 4 hours to cover the journey from Changsha to Huangshan (700 km). Ticket price 331 yuan (2979 rubles). But in this video, again, you can feel like a passenger of such a train.

How to buy train tickets in China

It is better to buy train tickets in advance, because good places at a convenient time quickly dismantled. And there is one great site where you can buy tickets for Chinese trains from your own country CTRIP— english.ctrip.com

Of course, you will have to pay a small commission for such a purchase, but you will already have tickets in your hands. Most convenient to use mobile application resource, on the site you can immediately see how many places are left, and you can also receive bonuses for each purchase.

E-tickets must be printed at the box office before boarding the train.

At large stations, this is done at the long-distance ticket office, so before getting in line, it is better to clarify whether this is the ticket office. Otherwise, you will stand in vain and you may miss the train. When your turn comes up, you can silently hand the cashier through the window a mobile phone with a screenshot of an electronic ticket and a passport.

It is always better to come to the station in advance, because at the entrance you need to go through several checks, so there are usually huge queues. It also happens that tickets are bought and printed in a separate station building, and it is not always easy to find it. Therefore, it is better to be at the station at least 1 hour, and even better 1.5 hours before departure.

Buses in China

Everything is easier with bus tickets. You can just come to the bus station, name the destination or show a piece of paper with the name, and choose a convenient date and time when asked. Buses run in completely different directions and very often, so the nearest bus, most likely, will not have to wait long. The prices are tolerable, about the same as in Russia.

How much money should I take with me to China? What can you eat from Chinese cuisine, and what is not worth it? How not to get caught in a tourist scam? And also about the specifics of the Chinese mentality and the attitude towards foreigners, read here: What you need to know when planning a trip to China? Part 2

Being passionate fans independent trips outside of traditional tourist routes decided to go on another trip to China.

Since we have already been to Beijing and Guilin, new route was compiled in such a way as to see the maximum possible number of attractions that are usually not included in a traditional tour of exploring China: Shanghai - Suzhou - Xi'an - Chengdu - Leshan - Emeishan - Dazu - Chongqing - Yangtze cruise to Yichang - Wuhan - Hainan - Hong Kong.

Agency: Astravel - no big deal. Booked tickets, hotels, transfers, made visas and insurance. The manager Sergey was sympathetic to our requirements, the Chinese slowed down the whole process, who are not ready to quickly solve problems (we started discussing the route already in January!)

Departure from Sh-2

Men folded by 100 USD. and bought with all the whiskey, cognac and Baileys for the ladies. This stock has helped us in a number of situations in inland China, but more on that later…

Shanghai is a city of contrasts

The first time I was in Shanghai was in 1989, passing from Hangzhou. Since then, there have been tremendous changes, even compared to our last trip in 2004, many places are simply unrecognizable. The new district of Pudong on the other side of the river, striking in its architecture, will compete with any metropolis with traditional skyscrapers.

We lived in the New Asia Hotel (***), relatively decent, located a 10-minute walk from the main shopping street of Nanjinglu and 20-25 minutes from the old city. There are no special complaints about the hotel, since we only spent the night in it after long sorties, we did not notice any flaws. The money was changed at the reception - 1 dollar - 7.9 yuan (the exchange rate is about the same everywhere). We were at the hotel at 12 o'clock local time, immediately met with our friends who flew in from Guangzhou, and went to the Bund to take pictures and have lunch ...

We took pictures against the backdrop of skyscrapers from the embankment, jam-packed with the same "tourists", on our side - historical buildings built during the British colonial rule. I was especially impressed by the HEPING hotel (Mir) with amazing interiors, incl. stained glass windows. You immediately imagine bohemian Shanghai, ladies in evening dresses and pearls, gourmet dishes ... But they didn’t let us go there - after two, all state restaurants are closed, wait, they say, until dinner.

As a result, we sat down in one of the tourist eateries, ordered from hunger for 12 people (6 couples) twenty dishes and Chinese beer, and Chinese "argotou" vodka (the so-called "palm" in the common people - since the bottle itself easily fits in the palm). Three of us speak decent Chinese, so they served us in the highest class ... The only fly in the ointment - the girl who tried Chinese cuisine for the first time in such an original place, caught a cockroach in the dish .... Only "Red Label" saved the situation, and in the future we were all disinfected with the help of strong drinks, prudently seized from Russia. Then we went on foot to Old city DownTown. In fact, the abundance of hieroglyphs at first amazed our friends, who had never seen them in such a volume. English language, which are repeated in the card that we bought at the nearest kiosk.

Communication without marriage - some distraction from the route

They also bought a phone card on the embankment for 100 yuan, which gives 999 minutes of conversation in China. Unfortunately, we were unable to activate international roaming, so the husband (or wife, respectively) had a Russian number, and the wife (or husband) had a Chinese number. We also took portable walkie-talkies with us, which we used very actively when moving around the city and even shopping (in Chinese multi-storey supermarkets it is easy to get lost even for a Chinese).

Old and New Shanghai

The old city is a cluster of streets with a lot of shops selling Chinese consumer goods especially for tourists (both Chinese and relatively few foreigners) and various eatery-restaurants. In a small courtyard, there is a tree of Happiness, completely hung with red ribbons with wishes in the form of bright yellow hieroglyphs (the ribbons with wishes themselves can be bought right there for 5 yuan). It is necessary to toss the ribbon so that it hangs on the branches, then, as the Chinese believe, the wish will come true.

The whirlpool of people takes you to a small lake (fat, fat red fish swim) with a zigzag bridge with the famous tea pavilion.

Part of our group bought tickets (about 60 yuan) to Yuyuan Park and prudently managed to enjoy the beauties of park architecture almost alone (prudently - because the next day we went to Suzhou, a city where broken Chinese-style gardens are the main attraction). Bizarre forms of arbors, stones, birds chirping and ... behind the wall - huge modern skyscrapers - this is the current Shanghai.

Nanjinglu Street itself is a multi-kilometer shopping marathon (by the way, we did not participate in it), when the red light turns on and you cross this street in a taxi, it seems that it is all black from Chinese heads to the horizon - only people, a little higher - neon lights for shops and restaurants. There is nowhere to fall, let alone an apple… Definitely room for pickpockets, because the flow of people moves so densely, as in the May Day demonstration.

After resting at the hotel (we walked for half an hour, continuously photographing rickshaws, linen hanging on the balconies and street shops), we decided to go to see the city from a bird's eye view, but not on the advertised "Pearl of the East" tower (the highest in Asia), but in the most tall skyscraper GuoMao with a bar either on the 54th or 84th floor. Exquisite oriental interior, Bellini cocktail for $10 and a fantastic view of the city…

Suzhou - the city of gardens and canals - the Chinese Venice

We drove to Suzhou for an hour and a half by bus. The guide - a nice girl with glasses with a quiet voice - a typical representative of the Chinese intelligentsia - diligently told us the facts already known to us from the guidebooks. We had both "Polyglot" and "National Geographic" (an order of magnitude better than the first in all respects). The humble official's garden was completely packed with inquisitive Chinese, who, both alone and in tourist crowds, slowly moved along the most famous places in this garden. After suffering for an hour in the crowd and waiting for the next group to leave the cute pavilion or historical pavilion, we decided not to tempt fate anymore.

We also visited a park with a charming pagoda, after which we insisted on buying an excursion for 85 yuan on a self-propelled boat along the Suzhou canals. This is indeed a worthwhile event - extraordinary beauty, balconies with Chinese lanterns, hung with all sorts of linen that is dried. A Chinese man was squatting in the window brushing his teeth. All life is for show. Bought for 16 yuan (about $ 2) on the shore right on the street of dumplings and ate, because it was impossible to sit in a restaurant.

Our adventures did not end there - the most active ones went for a foot massage on the nearest street to our hotel, for 58 yuan (1 dollar = 7.9 yuan) for half an hour, cute girls with tenacious fingers and young men with relief muscles demonstrated the wonders of oriental massage. The next day, one of our friends had to be transported to the airport on a trolley - his legs could not walk, the second participant in the experiment walked on half-bent legs for a couple of days. The rest of the participants in the experiment were delighted ...

Xi'an - who has more statues or Chinese???

To be honest, this question was quite difficult to answer. We settled in the Le Garden hotel in the morning (a solid four, only tourist groups, there were already two buses of our compatriots, while local guides bred them like rabbits to visit a silk and pearl factory, however, the hotel itself is far from the city center).

We came across Gosha - a tall Chinese man of about 45, as he said, a retired pilot, but, judging by his knowledge of our country, he also studied optionally at another faculty (definitely, intelligence).

In the morning we saw the Wild Goose Pagoda famous temple in Xian during the Tang Dynasty (VII-X century). About half an hour by minibus and we are almost there. We passed the tomb of the (supposed) QingShi Huang - the emperor who united China, as Gosha, who was aware of everything, told us that there was nothing there but a modern stele. However, hundreds of buses and crowds of (literally) creepy crowds of Chinese made us give up on the idea that we should take a look at this historic site.

Bing-mayun itself (or the Terracotta Army) turned out to be no less crowded with tourists, having hardly parked the bus, we began to wade through groups of tourists led by guides with different flags and an army of dealers in copies of statues (which, by the way, cost 10 yuan, and if you bargain a little, then $ 1 for a set of 5 figures). Without a doubt, the 3 pavilions themselves and the main one, where the dug-out army is actually located, is a grandiose spectacle, rightfully included in the "mandatory" program of visiting China.

In front of the pavilion, you can (as in the past at VDNKh in a circular panorama) watch a film about how the figures were created, how they were destroyed by time, how they were found. The peasant himself, who stumbled upon the clay head in 1974 and eventually revealed this grandiose spectacle to the world, sits in the cinema hall as if nothing had happened and signs books (30 yuan from above + the book itself = 120 yuan). At the same time, I saw him 10 years ago - during a previous visit to Xi'an, and he just as calmly fanned himself with a fan and signed postcards and books with a felt-tip pen for money.

After wandering around the pavilions (it took all of 2-2.5 hours - no more) and pretty tired of the photo flashes (despite the ban on photos inside the pavilions), we moved home to the hotel. After the terracotta, the troops did not go out to the central square to see the 14th century Drum Tower and the Bell Tower.

In the morning we went to the mosque located in the Muslim quarter - indeed, standing place. The building of the mosque, founded in 742, does not resemble a mosque in any way, since its appearance designed in the spirit of Chinese architecture, only sometimes the Arabic script is adjacent to the hieroglyphs. On the way to the mosque, there is a market for all sorts of Chinese stuff - for the most part, fakes, however, after digging, one could find interesting things. For fun, a quote book by Mao in Russian was bought, which brightened up our train trip from Xi'an to Chengdu. Someone bought ceramic tiles, someone bought funny decorations ...

Journey from Xi'an to Chengdu

The station in Xi'an is three (no - five !!!) Leningrad, Yaroslavl and Kazan stations combined. People (mostly local peasants) sit, sleep, eat on the floor, in front of the station, inside the station, we were lucky - foreigners are allowed into the so-called. Vip room with air conditioning.

As befits the Russians, we bought all sorts of fruits, drinks, and even chicken at the station, the alcohol, prudently bought at Sheremetyevo, was not over yet ...

Really, beautiful landscapes, which you can’t see from an airplane, stopovers in small cities by Chinese standards (1-2 million people (!), Exotic characters in the car.

A cart with food is busy every 15-20 minutes (probably, only in suburban trains there are more intensive offers from network marketing workers), newspapers, napkins, game consoles and all that. A trip to the restaurant car with a tight male team with a bottle of СHIVAS cost 60 yuan for everyone (hot dishes) and ended with fraternization with local mafiosi, completely covered in tattoos, who drank rice vodka.

The female half of the group was able to take a break from the sightseeing marathon and read about the sights of Chengdu.

Chengdu

The provincial capital of Sichuan is a classic example of domestic Chinese city, which was not so much affected by modernization. However, the purpose of our visit was to visit the city of Leshan - with the world's largest Buddha statue carved from the rock and mountains of Emeishan - sacred place, where poets composed amazing poems about the beauty of the local nature. In general, Chengdu was the most "unfortunate" point of our trip. We arrived at the station at 5 am. "No one will meet us at night..." and all that stuff...

Having rushed about with our suitcases, after a series of calls to Beijing (to the credit of the host, a certain Chinese woman Zoya from Beijing, despite the early hour, helped us solve problems) found our English-speaking guide.

There was no bus, to all questions where the bus was, the answer was that he was going ... Having missed half an hour to the delight of the guide, who practiced English with us (and at half past five in the morning after a stormy night I didn’t want to talk about the weather at all), and switching to colloquial Chinese , it turned out that the bus would be waiting for us at a certain hotel, where we planned breakfast, but we had to go there by taxi. The taxi stopped on the opposite side of the station, we did not trust the porters with our cargo, respectively, charging was by the way. After breakfast we went to Leshan, to the Buddha. The statue is a grandiose sight (only the head is 15 m, the ears are -7.5, and the total height is more than 70 m). A local monk has been making it for about 90 years since 713 AD. , but never finished. A beautiful promenade along the Dadu River leads to the complex itself, along which we walked. Rickshaws scurry along the promenade, and for 5 yuan you can drive to the main entrance.

70 yuan for entry, 200 steps up, 5,000 Chinese around, half an hour of waiting - and you can take a photo of the head of Buddha with 365 swirls. They didn’t go downstairs (3 hours in the labyrinth queue was beyond our strength after wandering).

We boarded a ship (included in the main excursion package) and looked at the Buddha from the river - much more attractive. Just need to abstract from the Chinese.

The trip to Emeishan was also a failure. Two hours by bus, we arrived in the rain, we were given a rental of puffs (in the heat of 25 degrees) and raincoats and we went up to the beauties ... in spite of everything, we got wet ... The fog was terrible, you couldn’t see walking in 10 steps, let alone the glorified beauties. But we decided to go to the end, but we were stopped by a local employee, who said that there was a thunderstorm at the top and it was simply dangerous there. Two hours by bus back… Goodbye, Emeishan! Next time! We watched a tape on TV on the bus, how beautiful it can be.

At the Emeishan Hotel (albeit a 4-star hotel), no one speaks English. Those wishing for civilization did not manage to eat at the hotel, while lovers thrill we went to chi fan jie - an area where all kinds of living creatures are fried and steamed right on the street. At first, rickshaws brought us to the restaurant for only 1 yuan (apparently, the restaurant management paid them extra for bringing customers), but the emptiness inside and suspiciously kind staff made us insist on our own - we were going to the very heart of Emeishan. Dinner for 150 yuan (about 20 dollars, including alcohol for 5 people) included a huge plate of crabs in hot peppers, an impressive frog, various meats and shrimp, salads, hot appetizers. They did without knowledge of Chinese - all gestures and sounds. The only bright culinary spot ... Before that, everyone succumbed to the persuasion of the guide and ate at a local tourist tavern for 600 yuan of absolutely tasteless food.

In the morning we went by bus to Chongqing - the starting point of the journey along the Yangtze, having previously looked at the famous tea houses in the park. 7 hours of travel flew by unnoticed. A grand stop is the Dazu Monastery (also a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Rock-cut and painted expressive sculptures are associated with scenes from Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism. The most famous mountain Baodingshan - more than 10,000 different sculptures - an incomparable sight in the rays of the setting sun. It's cool and there are almost no tour groups.

Chongqing is the capital of the "third line of defense"

In an hour we reached Chongqing, which I practically didn’t recognize (over the 17 years that have passed since the internship), only the Liberation Square remained recognizable (where the Chinese still gather every night for mass dances) with the Jie fang bei monument, Renmintang People’s Hall and honor steep descents. Everything else is a modern city with four-level interchanges, consecrated with multi-colored lights with 50-story skyscrapers erected on the banks of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers. After tasting the real Huoguo (boiling cauldron with spicy broth in which to boil meat and vegetables) in an authentic restaurant, we took a bus 3 hours to the city of Fengdu (ghost city), because our liner did not moor in an expensive and pretentious port Chongqing.

Ah, the white ship… the running Yangtze…

Former GDR-ovsky a cruise ship, built at the end of the era of stagnation and unclaimed by the USSR in the turbulent years of perestroika, was immediately bought by enterprising Chinese, everything was redone in English and Chinese manners, the "Domestic" origin of the product is issued by the Morozko refrigerator in each cabin and warning labels in Russian stop -crane and fire safety, apparently, the Chinese did not dare to touch them.

Small cabins with two beds, a shower and a bathroom, a local radio, on which guests were periodically convened for various seminars (2 hours for acupuncture, 2 hours for the history of the Chinese circus, etc.). In the evening - folklore evening (colorful spectacle of mummers) + traditional welcome drink at upper deck with a captain in a snow-white tunic and well-trained staff - everything is like on ordinary cruise ships, but with Chinese characteristics. A three-time buffet with attached professional (also not otherwise a school of intelligence) waitresses who instantly learned our entire company by name and for three days brought us our favorite dishes and drinks - green tea, na-ta-sa)))))

Fengdu is a city of ghosts, a curious place on the banks of the river with an eloquent visualization of all the punishments for each specific earthly sin. This is a must see… Wonderful landscapes with pagodas and a lot of legends and superstitions. The lowest part of the city is planned to be flooded as a result of plans to build the largest dam in the world. However, Fengdu itself (the historical part), fortunately, is not in danger.

The next day, May 7, we sailed the famous Three Gorges (Sansya) - magnificent landscapes of a rapidly narrowing river with sheer cliffs.

In the bar on the bow of the ship, a kind of political information in English is held for everyone with a detailed story about the gorges, legends and historical facts. In the afternoon we were transferred to a small boat (half an hour up the tributary of the Yangtze) and then to wooden junks, which at some stage of the journey were dragged along the shore by local peasants. Barge haulers on the Yangtze sang a song (we are sure that it was sad about a difficult lot), we answered "Dubinushka", the guide - a pretty Chinese woman, sang a couple of songs of local national minorities. Barge haulers themselves are an excellent example of the fact that healthy physical labor in the air will mold an athlete out of anyone, such embossed muscles are not always found even among fitness club trainers. We were especially struck by the 80-year-old toothless grandpa helmsman on one of the boats, whose face was literally dotted with wrinkles, but whose figure and muscles would be envied by the finalists of bodybuilding competitions - it would be another 60 years in a row to drag through stones and boulders up the river the hardest loaded boats and now overweight retired tourists.

In general, it must be said that the audience on the ship (about 300 people) was a gathering of American and European pensioners who decided to see the world in their old age. They eagerly listened to all the stories of the guides, tirelessly photographed everything and everything, carefully studied the special pictures hung in the corridors between the cabins with explanations in English with curious historical facts about the gorges, about the history of certain places that we sailed, various facts that can be interesting during a three-day trip along the river.

Perhaps we were the youngest group. One couple of Americans, 60 years old, listened to Russian speech for a long time and, finally, one of them asked what language we spoke. Having received a proud answer that in Russian, after thinking, he answered that we, probably, are very rich Russians, since we can afford a trip to the Yangtze. We did not argue with him, although there was a desire to say that real rich Russians have long been living in London and hanging out in the Costa Smeralda, and not sailing on a ship in the Chinese outback. The really new Russians would either rent the entire liner or sail on an ocean yacht with their staff, model girls, champagne and all that.

Apparently, the boom of information about the insane spending of wealthy nouveaux riches has not yet reached provincial America.

Nevertheless, we nevertheless made some contribution to the idea of ​​the extravagance of Russians - they came to local bars not only at happy-hours, when foreigners who wanted to save money crowded there because of a 20% discount, but quite regularly. There is an invariable bottle of whiskey on the table - the bartender did not mind, since we occasionally took cocktails and coffee with juices in the bar itself, but the regular appearance of a full bottle of expensive alcohol on tight-fisted pensioners (any cocktail in the bar cost about 60-70 yuan - almost 10 dollars) was another confirmation of the fabulous wealth of the Russians - they could not have guessed that all the alcohol was bought in duty free. In the evening we had an evening on deck, also with cognac and whiskey. The foreigners were shocked, even looked closely at the drinks that were not in the bar, trying to figure out where the expensive cognac came from in the Chinese wilderness.

By the evening of May 7, they sailed to the famous Sanxia Dam and for about 5 hours they passed through the locks together with similar cruise ships. A grandiose engineering structure, or, as local guidebooks say, is the crown of man's victory over nature. In the morning we went by bus to the dam itself. Despite the ongoing construction of the next stage of the dam, the surroundings are perfectly clean, flowers, flowerbeds, everything has been swept up. We also reached the Sanxia Dam Museum, which offers a majestic view of the river itself, the dam and locks, and where, of course, you can buy various books and souvenirs as a keepsake of visiting the dam.

In general, the Chinese are very proud of their achievements during the years of reform - this is not ostentatious pride, but the real feelings of the once poor people, who in just two decades broke into world economic leaders. After the commissioning of the entire dam, it will provide a third of all electricity to China, and some will even be sold to neighboring countries. $ 25 billion - the amount of investment in the project, while part of the money was collected "from the world on a string" from all the Chinese in the form of a special tax on electricity.

We had to wait about an hour as all the roads were blocked. At first we thought that the abundance of policemen was due to the arrival of some important person, however, what was our surprise when a giant truck with some kind of turbine blade slowly appeared. Increased precautions were just associated with a unique detail, while all the Chinese literally glowed with happiness, talking about how big and important this detail is for construction.

Half an hour after the excursion, we unloaded in Yichang, since it made no sense to sail further - only cities are located downstream, representing a mixture of gray industrial buildings and gray smoke (as far as Shanghai itself, in which we have already been).

We took the bus to Wuhan, where they wanted to eat a rat, which confused the guide's girl. She said that rats were eaten in the famine years or in the troubled years of the cultural revolution in the most remote villages. Having missed the search for a rat, they were forced to visit a restaurant at the local airport - one of the most tasteless dinners during their entire stay in China. An hour and a half fly and we are on the island of Hainan - Chinese Hawaii.

Hainan - the pernicious influence of Russians

The divorce began right at the airport - a lively Chinese woman tried to recruit us in impeccable Russian for a free visit to the silk, pearl and tea factories. The decision was made not to reveal our knowledge of the Chinese language in order to understand how far the desire to breed stupid Russians would go.

Having made sure that we didn’t need anything yet, she lagged behind us and we safely reached the hotel.

According to some versions resort hotel Intime (or as our experienced compatriots called it - "intim resort") - either four or five stars. We got rooms with a sea view, but without a balcony, so the Sea View can be different. To pay $ 100 on top for three days was strangled by a toad, since the room itself is very decent two beds, a TV with a Russian program, all kinds of bathrobes, slippers and detailed explanations in Russian on all issues.

The rest itself is nothing special: the sea (warm, 27 degrees), the beach (with crowds of aunts offering black, pink and white freshwater pearls and literally sitting on their heads with a desire to sell these threads to anyone), healthy afternoon sleep. For those who wish - SPA with massage. Since in three days you still won’t be cured of anything, we decided to ignore this side of the rest, but watched with interest the girls and women of Balzac age, who regularly attended all kinds of procedures.

The hotel is FULLY crammed with Russians, there are 20% Chinese from the mainland or Hong Kong.

Moreover, our audience is very specific - some are rich dads with young girls pumped up with silicone of well-known behavior in more than revealing outfits from D&G and other Italian rubbish (they looked strange against the general background), some are methodical spa visitors who do not miss a single procedure, some are curious fans of the beach, somewhat tired of Turkey and Egypt, who want to plunge into Chinese specifics.

Two (or three) charters from Russia a week did their job: prices in stores tripled in two years (including for my favorite silk, we even regretted that we didn’t buy all sorts of pretty dresses in Suzhou), some street restaurants with seafood were demolished, instead, glasses appeared with a menu in Russian with unusually high prices for absolutely tasteless food.

Drunken Russians (and where they are not) completely spoiled the natives, buying for $ 50 for their silicone stole a bunch of bananas. After such generosity, the locals are blown away and they languidly wait under the hotel for the next Russian with merchant manners.

Nevertheless, we found the remains of "old Hainan" - a corner of Chinese cuisine, where everything is cooked on the street in front of your eyes, made friends with a Chinese woman - the owner of a restaurant and, all three days, went to the crossroads to eat shark, crabs, shrimp, snails, mussels, shells, moray eel, eel, parrot fish and a lot of other stuff.

Dinner for 10 people - about 100 dollars, a little expensive by Chinese standards, but absolutely free by Moscow standards. They also made a sortie to the so-called. crocodile farm, where they ate fried and boiled crocodile (experienced people said that it was better in Kenya), snake soup (not a bad thing) and turtle soup (also very tasty, especially paws with small claws).

Moral: Hainan, in 20 years before my eyes, went from a real paradise with Hawaiian bars (where a retired American paratrooper who married a Chinese woman mixed delicious cocktails) to a large entertainment center - a typical resort with multi-storey boxes of hotels with small (and, unfortunately, , rapidly disappearing) interspersed with Chinese life in the form of street markets, fishermen's villages, rickshaws, etc.

It was here that in just two or three years our compatriots (in my opinion) managed to turn a paradise into a Turkish coast with all the ensuing consequences. It's a pity, but, probably, we won't go to Hainan anymore, so as not to spoil the rest of the good impressions.

The guys went to the jungle for one night and were fabulously satisfied, but we spent the evening in a colonial style, dressing up in all sorts of skirts and sweaters, already packed in suitcases during sightseeing wanderings in inland China. A buffet with marine reptiles in the form of a dinner for 126 yuan per person + a Chinese woman who diligently brought out "Moscow region evenings" (there was even a song "life-long suck" - we did not immediately understand that it was about truckers).

Hong Kong

Joyfully received a $100 deposit, we headed to Hong Kong - the last point of our journey.

We were met by the same guide - Mr. Yamb, very cheerful, we especially liked the fact that he converted everything into dollars and focused on this - "a square meter of housing on this street costs 3000 dollars" (apparently, so that we do not get confused in Hong Kong dollars ). Hotel MIRAMAR (three stars) - small smoky rooms, but a great location - in the very center, on the busiest shopping street in Hong Kong. Delicious crab buffet for 126 HK$ (about $15), which attracts wealthy Hong Kongers and tourists in limousines.

I have been to many places, but… after London, Hong Kong is the place where you can basically live on a permanent basis – colonial influence has given the most generous fruits: impeccable courtesy, capitalist abundance, oriental luxury combined with European restraint… By ferry for 2 HK$ we sailed to the island part of Hong Kong, walked along the antique Hollywood Street (over the past 2 years it has turned into a collection of boutiques, where languid-looking Chinese women with thick catalogs are sitting, waiting for a connoisseur of Chinese ceramics and painting).

After three hours of leisurely strolls in the bustling shopping district, ShangHai Tang, one of the best boutiques offering stylish Chinese-inspired contemporary clothing, was surprised by the Russians' shopping spree. Some of the nice things were bought in the most expensive hotel "The Peninsula" (of course, we are not talking about Louis Vuitton, who, no doubt, makes billions on the Chinese love for brands). In general, the Chinese and Hong Kongers have felt the taste of luxury and are passionate about emphasizing their status, all sorts of brands like ARMANI, which opened its 6-storey (!!!) supermarket in the very center of Hong Kong, Prada, MIU MIU, CELINE, DIOR and others take advantage of this luxury brands.

The next day - sightseeing tour(60 USD per person) with check-in fishing village Aberdeen, then a couple of new Buddhist shrines and a mandatory check-in to Victoria Peak, which offers an enchanting view of the harbor (the spectacle of Hong Kong at night is especially mesmerizing).

We also visited a jewelry factory, from where they carried the coveted topazes, aquamarines and black pearls in their beaks. The work is really very beautiful, it is not for nothing that Hong Kong is considered the center of the jewelry industry. South-East Asia. Australian opals in Chinese processing were not at all impressed - like plastic.

So the last day of departure from the hospitable Hong Kong has come. The airport is super modern, but since the flight was at night (at 0.30), all shops in Duty Free were closed, except for alcohol and cigarettes with cosmetics.

Conclusions:

1) independent travel is much more interesting and, importantly, cheaper than trips on standard tours.
2) The route (no matter how trite it may seem) must be compiled independently (from books and guides, via the Internet, from friends' reviews, etc.), since I don’t know everything even in good agencies.
3) China, despite the language barrier for most of our people, is not a terrible country at all, but simply different. Be polite, read guidebooks, be inquisitive and you will undoubtedly discover another China for yourself - not the "shuttle" Beijing and Shanghai, not beach hainan, but a really interesting original great country.

nataly
21/06/2006 11:59

The opinion of tourists may not coincide with the opinion of the editors.